1st Gen Ski Nautique Y-Block Coupler Removal
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41021
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 5:54am
Topic: 1st Gen Ski Nautique Y-Block Coupler Removal
Posted By: skutsch
Subject: 1st Gen Ski Nautique Y-Block Coupler Removal
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 6:18pm
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About 3 years ago, my brother and I were out in Dad's boat, at low now wake speed, we developed a SERIOUS rattle in the drivetrain. Diagnosis (after the initial panic) was cutlass bearing, What the hell! Damn thing was original and barely made it 50 years - what a bunch of junk - HA! Anyway, researched all the cutlass bearing threads, got my threaded rods and socket spacers all set to go, only to open the dog house and find the 1st Gen Ski Nautique with the Y Block motor is a little different then every other boat in all the other cutlass bearing threads... As we all know, to replace the cutlass bearing you have to remove the prop shaft. To remove the prop shaft, you have to remove the coupler. The recommended method is to use threaded rod and spacers to remove the coupler from the shaft which is installed with a interference or friction fitting. With the Y-Block, there are a couple of dramatic differences, First the rear engine mounts actually mount to the back of the transmission. The heavy steel plate that spans the stringers completely blocks engine side of the transmission coupler - so no access there to work the threaded rods. Second, the bolts holding the two couplers together actually screw into the transmission coupler, i.e. the coupler is threaded. So I was concerned about stripping out that coupler using bolts and spacers to remove the shaft coupler. Below is a short video that shows how I solved the problem. Enjoy! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Replies:
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 7:35pm
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Great video and Polka music, don'tcha know! Now what? Keeping it original or going ARE back? If keeping it original, how are you going to get that back on given the clearance issues? My/Todd's '64/'65 with the Poly doesn't have that space issue - whew! ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 7:40pm
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I think I have to keep it original, not sure I would find an ARE compatible coupler. I will put it back together on a cold night and use the old "Heat the coupler in the oven" trick. Frankenotter doesn't believe it can be done, so I have to at least try. Actually while it is a friction fit, it didn't appear to be as tight as what I have heard in all the horror stories... Nothing better then a little German Polka music to make the time laps fly on by! Gotta whistle why ya work! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 8:23pm
Steve, If Joel can do the heat shrink, you will not have a problem!  It did however take him two try's. Are you sure the trans coupling is threaded on? I just took a look at the Deatbo parts sheet and it looks like the coupling is splined. BTW, for an ARE, all that's needed is a matching OD and pilot to the existing. If the ARE is still a consideration, measure the old shaft coupling and give them a call. What Polka music? I'm so used to it up here that I actually did not even focus in on it. . ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
skutsch wrote:Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 8:39pm
Sorry should have been more clear. Instead of the two couplers being held together with thru bolts. The trans side is threaded, so the bolt goes thru the shaft side and screws into the threaded holes on the trans coupler. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 9:10pm
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Steve, Got it! I misunderstood your original description. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 10:10pm
| That's the way the coupler is on our 6 banger Interceptor. I can't see the video, but that boat must have a Dearbo? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 10:18pm
Bruce, Here's Steve's starting post with the picture showing the Dearbo:
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 10:43pm
| For some reason I cannot see the pics, but it sounded the same as our 312. The VD's had normal mounts which I was able to find a pair for future use if we ever have to convert. The ARE couplers are a little shorter than a standard coupler. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 10:51pm
Bruce, Steve's dads 312 isn't exactly the same as yours. He still has the YH's!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 10:56pm
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Here are a couple of pictures (from the video): Transmission and Engine Mount:  Coupler  ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-05-2017 at 11:15pm
| Steve, your dad must have changed that tranny fluid regularly if he's never had a problem with it. |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-06-2017 at 1:12am
Funny, I don't remember him ever changing it. I know in the 80's it wouldn't go into gear because it was low. That's when we noticed it was spraying fluid all over the inside of the dog house, seal was bad. So he had that replaced. I started maintaining it in the late 2000's and I have only changed it once. Of Course, it I would be surprised if it even has ten hours on it since 2000... ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: May-06-2017 at 3:53am
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Success. Another approach (which I've recent;y used) is to remove the transmission-side coupler (undo bolt, use puller). Then with trans supported, remove the rear mount carrier. This piece also contains the rear oil seal-good time to change it. Reinstall the trans flange. Now there is enough room to use long bolts and get nuts on the backside, thereby minimizing chance of damaging trans flange threads, The rest is the same. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-06-2017 at 9:42am
| I find the fluid gets dirty pretty fast. A lot sooner than a Velvet Drive. I've heard a few people say changing the fluid is important, but apparently not in your case. |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: May-06-2017 at 12:49pm
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If you decide to renew the seals: Ford Dearbomatic trans seals: Input (front) seal: p/n 15222SC Nitrile oil seal Output (rear) seal: p/n 17253SC Nitrile oil seal Bought from "The O-Ring Store, LLC", Lewiston, ID 208-413-6377 |
Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: May-06-2017 at 3:22pm
| Nice Video. What do you use for go pro editing? |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-07-2017 at 10:56am
Thanks for the info! - No seals change at this time tho, this will be good for reference! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-07-2017 at 11:01am
I use "Vegas Movie Studio Platinum 11.0" - Pretty straight forward, like any software you have to learn it and then it becomes second nature. Unfortunately, I only use about 5% of the features... Here is a screen shot.  ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-07-2017 at 11:48am
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To complete the story, I got it all back together. The oven thing worked all though I did have to use a "persuader"... Baking in the oven also turned the paint from the cool sea green blue to a rather drab gray, but who is ever going to see it... Also handling car parts that have baked for a couple of hours pretty much wrecks oven mitts. I will be buying Carmen a new set... Actually mechanic gloves, inside of a basic leather work glove seemed to provide enough insulation. No video of the re-assembly, I got a little side tracked as the neighbor came home with this: You should see the cutlass bearing on that thing, it has to be a foot long, and yes it needs to be replaced! HA! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 12:45pm
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In the (excellent) video, I can see what looks like a decal or tag attached to the center of the transmission mount carrier. Can you make out what it is/what it says? Thanks |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 6:32pm
Absolutely no idea, its really more of a smudge then an actual decal. I think your right at one time it was a decal, but it is now illegible, and I don't ever remember seeing it in the past (unlike the decals on the valve covers which included the 215 HP sticker and the Break-in/oil change instructions). I bet somebody on MarineEngines.com probably has a reproduction... Pete - can't remember, do you have a dearbo or VD on the Dunphy ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 6:55pm
Steve, I'm lucky, it's got the Velvet. In fact, I was working at Watercraft when the Dearbo went out. The original owner brought it in and we dropped the Velvet in. It had to be around 1968 or 69. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 7:25pm
You mean it's not original? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 8:10pm
Yup, the Velvet isn't the original. What should I do, go find a Dearbo for it? Lets see, I put a new bottom on it and It has new upholstery. The varnish and bottom paint aren't the original ether. I did find a jetson stern light for it since the original is somewhere at the bottom of a lake. The deck vinyl was replaced when I did the upholstery. Let me think, oh, I couldn't get the replacement cartridges of Freon for the horn so I put the CO2 tank and regulator in it. The most important feature that's still original are the two YH side draft carb. You know Bruce, there are some out there that can't figure out how to set the floats in the YH's so they put a downdraft carb on the engine!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |