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Transmission Question

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41146
Printed Date: October-07-2024 at 12:25am


Topic: Transmission Question
Posted By: racingnc
Subject: Transmission Question
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 6:57pm
I'm sure this has been covered here somewhere on the forum but I must ask again. A little insight first. I have 1986 correct craft ski martinque and about 2 years ago my bilgde pump quit working while the boat was in the water. I drained the trans and added fluid ran it for a few minutes then drained it again I did that about 5 times before taking out. This weekend I took it out for the first time and the trans slipped. It's to the point where I think I might have to get another one or get it rebuilt. I talked to my local dealer and they want to send it off and won't be done for a few months. Does anyone know anyone who rebuilds them close to the Charlotte area?



Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 7:27pm
I guess an easy question to ask would be

Is it full, roughly 1.8 to 2 quarts ?

I see you asked this question last August too about rebuilders, (and got no answers) I don't know any in NC but I'm sure somebody will chime in.

At least this time you have one response though

I imagine it slips on takeoff since that's when the load is the highest.

How many times has it slipped, is it every time you take off?

How much run time since the slipping issues

Brace yourself cause some guy named Pete will come along and grill you on what kind of ATF you used


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 7:31pm
Matt,
PM Ken so you can make arrangements to sent it to him for a rebuild.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 7:38pm
response time 4 minutes Pete not bad


Posted By: racingnc
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 7:46pm
You are correct it slips under load and I could not hey past 1300 rpm before it slipped. It is at the line on the stick. I put just under 2 quarts into it this week before taking it out. Not sure what to do thanks for the response.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 8:15pm
Looking at old posts, I see that you had synthetic i it for a short time a few years ago, replaced it with normal Dex 3 or whatever, then got water in it later and did a lot of flushing.

It probably won't help but I'd idle it around for an hour or so and get the fluid warm, shifting it frequently in and out of gear and going into reverse too. Give them clutches some exercise.

You have nothing to lose by doing this except maybe an hour of your time, Make sure your paddle works or have somebody with another boat tagging along just in case.

Then try taking off again

Does it slip in reverse too?

How many times has it slipped on you?

On another thought, have you ever heard the noise a bad damper plate makes,?

A slipping transmission makes a racket and so does a damper plate with the springs going bad. To me the damper plate makes more metallic grinding type noises and the clutches slipping are a loud groan.


Posted By: racingnc
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 8:32pm
It doesn't slip in reverse luckily I think. I it did not make any new or unusual noises. It felt like it jumped out of gear. I guess that's why I say it's slipping.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 8:43pm
If it did the same thing in reverse there would have been a good chance it was the damper plate.

Cheaper and easier, but no such luck I guess



Posted By: racingnc
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 8:49pm
Guess I need to just ship it out somewhere or spend the money to get a rebuilt one​. Just not sure what is the best option at this point.. Frustrating


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 8:49pm
Well your forum nickname does not explain if you are a racing fan or racer that is mechanically inclined..   If you are the latter then maybe you could beat the labor costs by doing it yourself. I just rebuilt mine and it's not as hard as you think. If you don't know one end of a screw driver from the other then I would farm it out.
Kit will run about $150.00. Takes about 3 hours. There are still service manuals available along with pictorial manuals on line. Mastercraft forum has a good pictorial on rebuilding one. We just posted the site a week or so ago.
And don't let anyone kid you, KENO is more than capable of doing it but he as well as alot of the rest of us, has already got a full plate. Good luck and keep us posted..
A picture of the tranny plate would be helpful.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: racingnc
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 8:54pm
I used to do both drive and build race cars. I never got into auto transmission due the the fact I can't stand the smell of burnt trans fluid. I'll get a pic of the plate tomorrow and post it. Thanks for any and all help. This by far is one of the most generous forums I have posted on.


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: May-30-2017 at 3:10pm
If you have that background, i believe you can do this.

First put a pressure gauge on the test port, and check line pressure. That will tell you if you have to replace the pump or not.

Then source snap ring/seals/front seal /oring kit, new reverse and forward plates, and i used a shim kit to get the forward pack stack height in spec.
My belleville washer had a good groove cut in it from the worn forward pack, so i needed one of those too.
A good set of snap ring pliers and a nice clean bench, i think you you got this.
Take notes and pictures, use the shop manual from this site's reference section.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: May-30-2017 at 3:44pm
I never touched one of these and am not a pro but I rebuilt mine and its perfect.   have 50 hours on my rebuild. So yes its pretty easy,

Only thing is that when you take apart the oil pump, make sure you mark the surfact with a sharpie so you know which way to put the gear back. There are wear marks on both sides of it that should be ok but they need to go back the same way.   


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: May-31-2017 at 11:03am
Taking the thing apart in a plastic mortar mixing tub from the home center, collected the fluid and caught small parts, and eventually its broken down and cleaned up , remove the tub and oil and stank, then just working with the bare unit and assemblies on a clean bench.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole



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