Cigarette Lighter - 12V accessory plug 95 Nautique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41352
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 3:34am
Topic: Cigarette Lighter - 12V accessory plug 95 Nautique
Posted By: MrMcD
Subject: Cigarette Lighter - 12V accessory plug 95 Nautique
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 3:55pm
I used my spotlight on our last boating/camping trip. I have had a 1 million candlepower light in my boats the last 25 years. I used it for the first time in our 95 Nautique.
It melted the 12V socket. I have removed the dash pod and the old 12V outlet.
I think I have found a replacement that looks to be the identical item on Skidim.
Question, has anyone else had this issue? I wonder if upgrading the 12V power wire and the ground wire to heavier wire would solve this melting issue or if I need to run a separate 12V cigarette lighter to a new location with heavy feed wire and a fuse for running the spot light. I understand my light drew more amps than the socket could handle from the factory.
At our destination of choice we sometimes have people join us at night or leave at night making a night run to the dock necessary. The spotlight makes this run safe and stress free in the dark. and because it is not a modern rechargeable light it is always ready to go.
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 4:45pm
Mark,
Get an LED spot light! If not, do check your amp/watts against the new outlet and wire sizing.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 4:58pm
Pete, I have looked at all the Spotlights available in LED technology, I realize how much more efficient they are. So far I have not found one that has the light my current one offers and mine is fully submersible which is a function I like and the new ones only state water resistant. I did search and have no issue buying a new light if I find the right one.
Electrical is not my strong suit. The lighter jack in the dash melted the bottom out of it using my light. I assume from too much amp draw. When I install the new lighter jack in the dash would a heavier feed and ground eliminate the heat at my plug? I am assuming the draw on small wires caused the overheat which melted the plastic.
Thanks
Mark
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 5:41pm
Before you do anything, pause and do some homework. If all was designed/implemented properly, you should NOT be melting things (and yes, current that is beyond the rated capacity of your components will melt them).
1. How much current does your 12v spotlight draw?
2. What is the current rating on the new 12v receptacle?
3. How is the receptacle currently wired? Is it pulling the 12v feed through a breaker (accy?)? Or just the hot side of the dash ign breaker? (I am not sure how cc wired these from the factory.)
The proper way to size the system is to:
1. Determine the size of the load
2. Choose components (receptacle, wiring) that have higher current handling ability than the load.
3. Fuse/breaker the system at a lower current than the components are capable of handling. This is what allows the breaker/fuse to trip BEFORE you melt anything.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 6:00pm
Mark,
When you shop for a new outlet/lighter, check the amp/watt rating and compare that to the amp/watt rating of your spotlight however, they typically can handle decent current. Since you said the bottom of it melted, I'd say the meltdown was due to a bad connection or a bad crimp on connector. What does the spotlight draw?
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 6:12pm
W/V=A (watts divided by volts equals amps)
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified)
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 6:32pm
My light is a sealed unit and over 25 years old, it is 1 million candle power and uses an aircraft landing light as the bulb. Says it draws less than 10 amps. No exact draw listed and I never tested the draw. The 95 Nautique runs the cigarette lighter jack through the dash switches, Acc # 2 or #3 turn on power to the jack it is not live at all times.
The wires look to be #18, pretty light wires.
I think I installed a jack in my old boat and used #10 wire for the same purpose and never had an issue. Probably overkill but it worked.
Please guide me if I am wrong but I think if I get proper sized wires to a new power source with a new fuse (10 amp maybe ) the load and heat will be taken away from the new Jack so it does not heat up when in use? Again, my extent of electrical is limited but I do understand the basics and know larger wires carry larger amperage.
I am thinking of adding a second jack anyways to allow for all the Cel Phone users that are always getting in the boat and asking if they can charge their phones. ( did not need that in the old days )
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 7:05pm
Mark,
The 10 gauge is overkill for 10 amps. I would still use it but fuse it at 20 amps IF the outlet is rated for it. I did go to Nautiqueparts and I think I found the outlet. It has .250 quick connects for terminals and these can be an issue if cheap "sta-cons" crimp connectors are used. The female on the cheap crimp on connectors start to get hot and then they loosen up, get even hotter from the poor connection and there's the melt down. Make sure you use the best connections you can find. The adhesive lined heat shrinks are good but even better are the ones that have solder built in. You heat them with a good heat gun and the solder makes the connection.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 7:11pm
I appreciate the advice from all of you. I will repair this when the new lighter jack arrives.
I think the 10 amp draw is more than the factory Accessory switches should be exposed to so it may mean a new line to the battery with a fuse of course.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 7:26pm
The switches are also circuit breakers. If the rating of the breaker is below that of the wire, you are ok. The breaker also needs to be rated lower than the capacity of the outlet. EI, the breaker should trip before anything melts.
I would not run a dedicated line to the batt unless the combined loads that you intend to run off the dash concurrently will exceed the ign breaker (20A?).
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 7:31pm
I just reviewed my 1995 owners manual and could not find any specs on the breakers.
I just did a quick search on this site and did not find the specs. I found the main breaker for the 1998 listed at 10 amps but so far nothing for the 1995.
Again, I appreciate the advice.
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 7:34pm
Christines Marine shows the breakers for sale so now I just need to check my part numbers.
Circuit Breaker/Switch with Spade Terminals
Used on Boats from 1985-1999. NOTE: 1985 boats you must
change the wire end terminals from screw to push on
SKU DB-9212 - 2.5 Amp. Bilge pump & auto bilge pump - Price $24.00
SKU DB-9213 - 6 Amp. Blower - Price $26.00
SKU DB-9214 - 8 Amp. Barefoot Nautique pump & auto pump - Price $45.00
SKU DB-9215 - 10 Amp. Navigation, Anchor & Acc. Light - Price $27.00
SKU DB-9216 - 20 Amp. Main Ign - Price $27.00
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 9:26pm
Follow up. The wires feeding the lighter are 16 gauge. The breaker is a 10 amp.
Both feed wires to the lighter were perfect, no sign of heat at all but the old lighter jack was melted.
I think Pete Nailed this one with maybe a bad connection causing overheat at the lighter base. Maybe my bad connection was between the spotlight plug in and the lighter base?
The spotlight connection looks fine but the lighter is definitely melted.
What I did not like about the dash pod, all the ground and hot wires are tied together with jumpers from one to another so they all use a common hot feed and a common ground. A problem with one could affect several others..
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 11:56pm
I thought it may have been some rust/corrosion in the bottom of the lighter socket, my bet would be that or a loose fit.
In my '95 some of the lighter plugs (like my GPS) are loose so I bought a 2 into 1 plug which fits nice and tight and I can charge my wife's phone and run the GPS at the same time.
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 4:04am
Thanks again to all of you for helping figure this out.
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-17-2017 at 2:07am
A final wrap on the plug issue. I did run a much larger power line and ground with a separate fuse rated 10 AMP. I had some #10 Copper wire in the garage so I used it. I know it is overkill but I won't worry about it anymore. Just back from a 4 day boating trip and all worked perfectly.
No overheat of the plug jack.
Mark
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