1988 Ski Nautique 2001 Electrical Problems
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41487
Printed Date: October-06-2024 at 10:24pm
Topic: 1988 Ski Nautique 2001 Electrical Problems
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Subject: 1988 Ski Nautique 2001 Electrical Problems
Date Posted: July-11-2017 at 7:36pm
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Disclosure: CCF newbie - I plan to get my diary started as soon as I can get some good pics rounded up! Background: I've owned my 1988 Ski Nautique 2001 since '05 - It's my baby. I've gone through some structural/cosmetic work (i.e. stringer replacement, new seat skins, carpet, etc.) and a some mechanical work (i.e. new coil, new distributor, etc.) I recently replaced the alternator and have had "electrical" issues ever since (i.e. low voltage gauge reading, temperamental kill switch, and now complete loss of electrical function). The other day, I was pulling my daughter on a wakeboard and the engine died like I'd pulled the kill switch - Dash switches all still worked (i.e. ignition, blower, pumps, engine cranks but wouldn't start). I was easily/luckily towed back to the dock where I poked around a bit in bewilderment (checked connections, etc.) with no success. This morning, I decided to temporarily by-passed the kill switch and it fired back up - I thought I had it licked (need a new kill switch). I took it for a solo cruise across a calm lake at 3K RPM watching the sunrise. After about 5 minutes, everything just went dead - This time nothing worked (no ignition, no blower, no pumps, no cranking - nothing). The wiring in the boat looks really old and seems like a rat nest (probably mostly original, but I can't say for sure). I'd like to overall the wiring completely, but I fear 1) that may not be necessary 2) it's a lot of time/money and 3) I don't know what I'm doing. Request: I'm looking for someone who can take a look at my boat, troubleshoot/fix the electrical issues, and recommend a plan of action (replacements, upgrades, etc.) Anyone within a few hours of Appleton, WI would be ideal! |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-11-2017 at 8:16pm
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Ben, Can you provide some more details on the ignition and alternator R&R you did? Why and what did you replace it with. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-11-2017 at 9:30pm
| Replaced old points distributor with optical (?) distributor, which if i recall required coil replacement, but that was back in '05 and has been awesome since. The alternator I don't remember where I ordered it from, but the old one broke (physically, when tightening during summarization), which was last year - That's when the issues started popping up. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-11-2017 at 9:39pm
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Ben, Have you done anything to confirm the alternator is charging? With the engine not running, you should get the nominal 12 volts at the battery. Then, with the engine running you will get 14 plus volts. Was the replacement identical to the old or did you install a "one wire" alternator? Is the distributor a complete unit or did you install one of the EI conversions in the old? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-11-2017 at 11:28pm
Pete Sure sounds like a whole distributor when you read the above. And it sounds like a Mallory Unilite. Is a one wire alternator something new to add to the list of things Pete doesn't like 
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ben.hlaban wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-11-2017 at 11:53pm
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Ken, I did read stated the distributor and I took it as such but just wanted to be sure. What do you mean I don't like one wire alternators? I never said I didn't!! The closest I would have come to saying something about them would have been not in a classic where originality is needed!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-11-2017 at 11:53pm
I used dashboard gauge to verify alternator (no multi-meter). At first had it hooked up wrong (had battery and ground mixed up). After I fixed that, gauge read ~10 volts at idle, but ~13+ volts with some RPM's. The replacement was not identical and it had a few more connection posts than the old (not sure what a "one wire" alternator is). The distributor was a complete unit and a new coil (both Mallary, not sure what model). Can't remember if new coil was "required" with new distributor or if it was "recommended" |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-11-2017 at 11:56pm
Here's a wiring diagram for a 351 of about your vintage Judging by your description of what happened I'd probably check the 20 amp ignition breaker on the dash and the 40 amp engine breaker on the back of the engine to see if either is tripped as a start. The diagram doesn't have a kill switch because I don't think all years had them. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:05am
| Engine breaker was not tripped and I don't see any breaker in the dash other than the toggle buttons and the one labeled "Ignition" appears to function fine (clicks in/out like all the others). Is there another ignition breaker under the dash? If so, I don't see easily see one - Do I need to take the dashboard off to get at it? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:08am
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From the volt readings you are getting I'd suggest having the alternator checked. With the reverse connection of the battery, there's a good chance one or more diodes are blown in it's rectification bridge. Also, how are you cleaning the battery posts and the cable terminals? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:09am
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You got the right breaker, the ignition breaker. Somewhere in that diagram you'll find your problem though. Don't forget to check the obvious like battery terminal connections |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:11am
| Just put in a brand new battery and cleaned connections at the battery. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:13am
| I sense you'll be telling me to get a multi-meter out soon - I sort know how to use one, but don't know how to apply it to this situation (i.e. locations to test, what to test first, or even where to put the probes for each location) |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:18am
I'll have the alternator tested and let you know. I clean the terminals with a wire brush. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:22am
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I'd look at the diagram and see if you have 12 volts at the batt terminal on the keyswitch (that's where the red wire hooks to the keyswitch)using a multimeter If you don't, then go backwards toward the battery checking the ignition breaker to see if there is 12 volts in and out and the engine breaker to see if there is 12 volts in and out even if the breakers seem to be not tripped. Next going backwards would be the connection at the solenoid. You can check that all those connections are clean and tight too. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:27am
Set it on the 20 volt DC scale and black wire goes to a ground on engine.or battery and touch probe on the red wire to each of the connections I mentioned above. Make sure you get the DC scale and not AC. For practice just test your battery voltage the same way. Black to negative and red to positive and you should see roughly 12 volts |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:28am
Should I do all this testing without the engine running? Is so, I assume the key should be in the "on" (or "running") position? Also, can you confirm where to touch each probe (i.e. red to test point and black to ground)? |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:30am
| This forum is awesome - You seem to answer even before I ask! |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:32am
Hey Ken this is from a guy who has a land line  probably rotary service too  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:34am
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Engine off and key off is good for this testing. It doesn't run right now anyways does it? |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:40am
| Correct, it does not run. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:40am
Maybe it's one of these 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:45am
I got the feeling you'll find that you don't have 12 volts at the key in that path from the battery that we talked about a handful of posts back. Even if your alternator has no output the boat would have run on just the battery for a while and your dash power wouldn't have gone away completely. unless one of those breakers tripped or you have a broken connection Check those places we mentioned in the morning or when you have a chance |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 12:55am
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I'll do some testing Thursday as I'll be on the road all day tomorrow traveling home from vacation in AL. And THANKS for all the help so far! |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 8:16am
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Here's a link to a recent similar issue that turned out to be the main breaker and tells where he got a new one in case that turns out to be your issue. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41293&title=electrical-problem" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-12-2017 at 1:49pm
Ken and Gary, You're close but I've gone modern with my equipment on the POT's line. Here's the latest from wonderful Frontier!   ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 1:28am
I was able to successfully use a multi-meter tonight to trace problem to the engine breaker. Now, the question is what size? There's a 50 AMP in there now, but the manual says 40 AMP and the link to the skidim part referenced earlier in thread is for a 40 AMP as well... |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 1:30am
None of the auto parts stores could test my alternator, so I'm going to take it to an electrical shop tomorrow to get it checked out - I'll let you know how that goes as well. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 9:19am
Good job,Pete will be proud that you found it with a multimeter The 40 amp will be fine, probably a better choice than a 50. If you manage to trip a 40 amp breaker you have a problem with the electrical system anyways. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 4:09pm
| I took my alternator into Fondy Auto Electric (http://www.fondyautoelectric.com/) to have it tested - They said everything looks good! My alternator is putting out max 51 AMPS, which brings into question the engine breaker size again. There's a 50 AMP breaker in there now, but it was tripped and potentially faulty so I'm going to replace it. According to my manual I need a 40 AMP breaker, but according to Fondy technician (Mark), I really should have a 60 AMP breaker if my alternator is capable of putting out 51 AMPS and I have a situation where my battery is low or has a bad cell, which would cause the alternator to output max 51 AMPs. Does anyone see a problem with putting in a 60 AMP breaker? |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 4:57pm
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It isn't really about what the charging system can put out. It is about what the wiring on the protected side of the breaker can handle. If the system becomes overloaded on the protected side and it is only able to handle a 40 amp draw but it is pulling 50 amps it will not trip the 60 amp breaker causing a potential hazard of wires overheating melting insulation and causing a fire or sparks that may ignite fuel vapor in the bilge/engine compartment of the boat. Everyone here runs stock systems just fine with a 40 amp breaker and have done so for a very very long time. Stick with a 40. Wiring issues on the protected side cause the breaker to trip not supply. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 5:03pm
| I would stick with a 40 or 50. If your electrical system starts drawing 51 amps you have a problem. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 6:45pm
+1 Stay with the original 40 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-15-2017 at 10:36am
| Thanks everyone - I've got a new 50 AMP breaker on order and will be putting everything back together on Monday when it comes in. I will let you know how everything works! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-15-2017 at 10:43am
| Is your stock wiring sized to handle 50A or 40A? That is what the breaker is protecting. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-15-2017 at 12:25pm
| I upgraded the distributor back in 05 or 06 to a Mallory YLU554CV and the ignition coil to a Mallory 29216 at the same time. I'm pretty sure the alternator has been upgraded since factory, but I'm not sure about the wiring. The boat has had the same alternator and 50 AMP breaker in it since I bought it in '05, so that's what I'm going to replace it with. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: July-17-2017 at 10:00am
| Good luck. 50 amps is too large to properly protect stock wiring. |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: July-17-2017 at 10:36am
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After reading this thread the other day I checked to see what size mine was on the 88', it was a 50 amp and pretty sure its OEM. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 7:34pm
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With the new breaker installed, I have power to dash and the engine cranks but still will not fire - I'm guessing it's the kill switch. My kill switch has 4 connections - 2 labeled NC and 2 labeled NO. Using a multi-meter to test connectivity on OHM setting (tone), I did the following tests: 1) Lanyard attached, red to NO and black to other NO = No tone (open circuit) 2) Lanyard detached, red to NO and black to other NO = Tone (closed circuit) 3) Lanyard attached, red to NC and black to other NC = Tone (closed circuit) 4) Lanyard detached, red to NC and black to other NC = No tone (open circuit) What is the correct way to connect the kill switch? Furthermore, I thought I could just connect the 2 wires directly to each other (by-passing the kill switch all together) and the engine should fire, but it still does not. Also, I notice that my voltage gauge drops to 10 Volts when I have the 2 wires connected directly. What's the next thing to check? |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 8:10pm
| I'm not familiar with kill switches but I expect there are different ways to wire them. I would try starting it with both wires disconnected. It may be wired to ground your ignition wire rather than opening the feed. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 8:15pm
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NO = normally open NC = normally closed It sounds like your switch is working. I haven't seen a kill switch in these boats wired to prevent ignition anyways... always prevents cranking so i don't think that's your issue. Check for proper voltage to the ignition system, starting at the key switch. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 8:22pm
 Don't kill switches stop the engine by interrupting the power to the ignition. If you are tossed out of the boat, you want to stop the engine and not start it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 8:23pm
So, I guess my question is should it be connected to the NC or NO connections? Either way (1) wires completely disconnected or 2) wires connected directly together), it doesn't fire - I have 12 volts at the key and at the 20 AMP dash breaker. The engine cranks, but won't fire. What's the best way to confirm spark? |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 8:25pm
| Is it possible my coil or distributor were damaged by mis-wiring (when I hooked up the alternator incorrectly at first)? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 8:28pm
I will try to be more clear... The factory kill switches I have seen wired interrupt power to the dash (between batt 12v and the key) so it will prevent cranking AND cut power to the ignition. (As opposed to being connected in line with the ignition ONLY.) Voltage needs to be verified at the key switch at the I terminal in both the start and run positions, obviously there is battery voltage at the switch (B terminal) if it cranks. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 8:43pm
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Well it's back to the TRB wiring diagram You could pull a plug and check for spark. If you have spark you could skip the rest of what I've written If you don't have spark, then continue on Turn your key to the RUN position and see if you have roughly 9 to 12 volts at the coil positive terminal and post the results |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 8:59pm
If it is supposed to open the circuit when the lanyard is removed then use the NC connections that you measured in #3. With the lanyard attached the circuit should be closed. I assume that with the wires disconnected it didn't crank or fire. Not sure you said that above. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 10:10pm
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Me and Tim don't usually disagree but I think the safety lanyard only kills power to the ignition system and the engine will still crank over but have no spark. That's what I've seen on other brand boats that begin with letters like an M. and none of my boats have a lanyard. That way you're not killing power to things like the lights and the bilge pump that might come in handy to have in certain situations. I suppose you could tap it in after the hot feed to the dash and before the key and still power the pump and lights etc. but the ones I've seen will let you crank the engine with the lanyard disconnected |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 12:31am
| Darn site hung up but your recent edit is consistent with what I was wondering. I wish I had some of those lanyard-equipped mid 90's CC's still around to confirm, but I recall them being unable to crank when the switch was tripped. Could very well have been in line between breaker and key. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 1:12am
| Just to clear things up - The boat cranks, but won't fire either way - With the kill switch wires completely disconnected AND with the kill switch wires directly connected together (no kill switch whatsoever) - I'm just wanting to take the kill switch out of the equation, which is why I'm wanting to know if the circuit should be open or closed under normal operation. I'm 90% sure the circuit should be closed, but I just wanted to double-check. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 1:28am
With ignition ON and key ON, my coil is getting ~4 volts on the positive terminal - I assume this is because of the ballast resister, which is getting ~9 volts on the one side and ~4 volts on the other side. With ignition ON and key OFF, I get 12 volts on the one side of the key and none the other. With ignition ON and key ON, I get ~10 volts on both sides of the key. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 1:39am
I also confirmed that the Mallory 29216 coil requires the ballast resistor - The following was taken directly from the coil's install instructions:
|
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 2:08am
| Like Keno said check for spark. And 9 volts at the input to the resistor sounds low. In your first post you said that after the first time it died you bypassed the kill switch and it fired back up. I think you have a bad connection or device in the ignition voltage path. Key switch, kill switch or maybe a bad crimp in the dash. When you bypassed the kill switch it gave you a little more voltage and it started so you are near the threshold of working/not working. You should have 12 volts (or close to battery voltage whatever that is) at both sides of the key switch when it is in the run position. I think you are a couple of volts low. It may be that your electronic ignition module isn't getting enough voltage. The spark test will tell you if it's working. Also, how do have the ignition module wired. The mallory in my '89 requires that the ei module is connected before the resistor not after. Only the coil gets it's voltage through the resistor. Since your key voltage is low you can check the voltage with the key in the run position at the dash ignition breaker and then the engine breaker. You are losing voltage somewhere in the path. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 8:42am
Lets go with 100% sure the circuit should be closed for the ignition system to work. Wires directly connected. Your 9 volt and 4 volt readings are probably OK, telling me that the coil right now is grounded through the distributor.(if it had points, it would be like the points were closed) Also, if you unplug your electric choke the readings will go up since it's drawing power with the key on (it draws about 1 amp and causes about a 1 volt drop) If you bumped the engine over slightly your readings should change as the coil becomes ungrounded. They would go up. As you crank the engine they would constantly fluctuate as the coil is grounded then ungrounded as the distributor turns Kinda a lot to digest here but it'll tell you if the module got fried back when the boat quit Here'a a test procedure for your Unilite distributor module. It basically grounds and ungrounds your coil to see if the module is working correctly when you put the piece of plastic in or take it out Do this with the choke unplugged. The test simulates the shutter wheel grounding and ungrounding the coil As it says, change in voltage is a good thing during the test. You may not get 12 volts in the first step since you have a ballast resistor but do these checks and post what you have for results. http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/337302/mallory-ignition-mallory-unilite-test-procedure-mallory-unilite-test-procedure-605.html" rel="nofollow - test procedure |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 9:14am
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You could still be dealing with supply voltage issues but doing the module test will tell you if the module is good or bad. I'm not sure it was ever determined what caused your breaker to trip so there may have been voltage issues that affected the module and this check is easy and worthwhile. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 6:38pm
How do I "unplug" the electric choke? I'll try to included a picture... 
|
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 6:42pm
I'm having a hard time understanding the test procedures you linked - Nothing works like they say in the document. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 6:58pm
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It may be easier just to pull a plug and check for a spark. If you get a spark then the module is working. To disconnect the choke just pull on one of those wires. They are spade connectors with insulation goop over them. edit: pull the black wire so you don't accidentally short the positive to something. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 6:59pm
| I pulled a plug and have no spark. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:00pm
| I also took the coil in to have it tested at Fondy Auto Electric - They said the coil is fine. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:01pm
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Ben, Try in detail what results you get when you go through steps 1,2 and 3 of the test. Regarding the choke, looks like someone put liquid electric tape on the quick connects. You'll need to scrape it off to disconnect ether wire. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:05pm
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http://documents.holley.com/mallory_instructions_unilite_distributor_37_38_45_47.pdf" rel="nofollow - Link to Mallory instructions According to these instructions the red wire going to your distributor should be 12V. If it is low your module may not work. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:15pm
I scrapped off the liquid electrical tape and disconnected the red wire from the choke. The results from steps 1, 2, and 3 are as follows:
Result = 1.44 volts at the negative side of the coil.
Result = Battery voltage not present, but did the test anyway with no change in voltage. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:29pm
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My Mallory YLU554CV distributor has 3 wires coming out of it: Red = Goes to high voltage side of ballast resistor, which has ~9.8 volts with key ON Green = Goes to negative side of coil, which has ~1.3 volts with key ON Brown = Goes to engine block ground (under serial number plate) My Mallory 29216 Coil has 3 wires coming out of it: Purple = Connected to positive terminal and goes to low voltage side of ballast resistor, which has ~4 volts with key ON Green = Connected to negative terminal and goes to distributor Grey = Connected to negative terminal and goes to wiring harness at back of engine, which I assume goes to the tachometer on dash |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:38pm
| Sounds like it's time for a new module. |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:40pm
I'm not sure what that means. Is the module "inside" the distributor? If so, can I replace just the "module" or do I need a whole new distributor? |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:45pm
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Just the module. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-605" rel="nofollow - Module Read the P/N number on the module and then do a search. It may be this one. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:55pm
| Sorry. Yes it is in the distributor. Did a search on your distributor P/N and it looks like it uses the 605 module |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 7:58pm
| My 88 351 also has a 50 amp breaker. I haven't owned the boat since new but it's been in there for at least 16 years now. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 8:08pm
| I'm not sure everyone in this thread is talking about the same breaker. Where is it located? |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 8:14pm
Yes, the 605 module looks correct - I'll get one ordered ASAP. I was reading some posts on the Summit Racing Equipment website where I plan to order the module and I found this:
My starter had been acting up (grinding sound when starting), so I had it tested the other day and they said it was destroyed (couldn't be rebuilt) and they asked me if it had gotten stuck (engaged) and continued to spin with the motor running. I didn't even realize this could be the cause of my issues, but I may have learned something after reading that post. Anyways, I have a brand new starter installed and I'll be replacing my ignition module, so I'm hoping that will finally get me back on the water. I'm still not understanding how the ignition module is causing my voltage drop - Do I still need to worry about? Or should replacing the module fix that too? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 8:29pm
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The 605 is even stated in the troubleshooting link Ken provided. "If you must replace the module, replace it with Mallory Part No. 605." Ben, Regarding the voltage drop, I'd say the modules opto coupler is fried and grounded. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 8:38pm
| I ordered the replacement 605 module and will let you know how it goes - Thanks for the help everyone!! |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 8:48pm
|
I guess I'm a day late and a dollar short or at least a few minutes short or something like that but I'll mention it anyways. The 605 module is about 110 dollars (commonly called the Unilite module) A 6100M module is about 55 dollars (commonly called the E Spark module) They both come from Mallory/MSD and are completely interchangeable with each other. The difference is that the 605 is/was built by humans and the 6100M is assembled by automated machines. No real difference in reliability between the two |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2017 at 9:39pm
Ben, I went back through the thread to see if talked about the starter problem and couldn't find anything. Thinking now, I wonder if this was the start/cause of your current problem? A starter that stays engaged is typically from the start relay (solenoid) contacts being welded together sending power to the starter even after the key switch is returned to the run position. The welded contacts are basically caused by a low voltage condition which in turn causes a high amperage (Ohms law) draw from the starter. The contacts can't handle it and then weld together. Not wanting you to go through this again, there are a couple things you need to know/check that can cause the welded contacts. Bad battery that can't handle the starter amp draw. Using a deep cycle battery They are designed for low amp draws for extended periods of time like a trolling motor or a large sound system. You always want to use a starting battery. Bad corroded battery cables causing a high resistance which in turn causes the low voltage. Bad cable terminals and or corroded/dirty terminals and battery posts. Again, a high resistance issue. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ben.hlaban
Date Posted: July-20-2017 at 1:57pm
I feel pretty good about the battery connections and cables since those were checked/cleaned as part of my initial troubleshooting of this issue. However, I do have a "marine" (deep cycle) battery in the boat now, which I will replace with a starting battery. Do you have any recommendations for starting batteries (brand, size, etc.)? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-20-2017 at 3:30pm
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Group 65, std automotive battery, no need for high CCA rating. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |