Modern Materials for Stringer Rehab
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42225
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 7:40pm
Topic: Modern Materials for Stringer Rehab
Posted By: Gneil
Subject: Modern Materials for Stringer Rehab
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 10:12am
|
Hey guys, Im new to the group and have been loving the conversations through the forums. Thank you! I recently picked up an SN '80 with less than 1K hours, and considering the age, its in good shape. As most of the early fiberglass SN its likely that ill be doing a stringer job in the near future. With this in mind, Im currently doing some research into Coosa board as a substitute for doug fur stringers. I've read many forums and understand the different arguments pro and con. One topic i haven't seen is the one where modern materials like Coosa are used with carbon fiber or kevlar. Any thoughts in this direction? Additionally, I'm interested in fully documenting my rehab and recording the updates and improvements including pattern making for the stringers and related bulkheads. unless i can buy them form a reliable source. Any one know of such a thing? As I've worked in the design field for the past 25+ years, I'm computer capable. (CAD Sketch-up etc.) Any info would be greatly appreciated. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 11:27am
|
You could call US Composites, which sells such materials. They might be able to provide assistance. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 11:49am
I think it would be overkill. Look how long they lasted originally with what CC used. Use quality conventional materials along with the Coosa and quality workmanship and you'd be good to go IMHO. Either that or just do the glass build up with nice crisp 20's  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 11:56am
I too feel Kevlar and carbon would be overkill. Glass and epoxy would be my choice plus less expensive. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Gary S wrote:Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:04pm
|
Hi Guys, Great quote on the crisp 20"s. I have less of those and more of the time and craftsmanship required no matter the materials. so If only to satisfy my curiosity i feel i need to at least dream of a world where everything is possible. Ha... ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:06pm
|
... I'm sure i will bow down to your sage advise and well thought wisdom in the months to come. Thank you!! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:12pm
|
Nothing wrong with dreaming Greg. Joe and Tim are the go to guys on Coosa builds. Not sure if Tim had a thread on his or not,I would be surprised if there wasn't. Someone will point you in the right direction. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:20pm
|
Ok, here is another idea....(slightly off topic) Dust collection during the stringer demo and prep. Has anyone heard of grinding and sanding with water? I know this may sound obvious (gel coat wet sanding on the exterior) or even ironic, but the boat is a sort of bowl and the waste could be concentrated in a container for disposal with a simple filtering sys. also it might help with the itchy factor and clean-up could be managed on an ongoing basis. Any thoughts? ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:24pm
|
Yes, Indeed! I lost some sleep last night reading Tim's treads. Loved them and learned a lot. His treads brought me back to my CNY lake where i grew up and where i still visit family. A great series of comments and advice from the CCF community. Cheers! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:32pm
|
ps.... I've tried to post some images, without success. not sure whats up yet. I will keep trying as i know ill never make it to Grand Poobah without some good quality pics for the crew. any tips there? ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:35pm
|
You may be confusing the players as JoeinNY and I are about 4.5hrs apart. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16014 |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:40pm
|
oops, I forgot to mention Joe. I think I got him confused with Tim. Sorry guys. Ive been devouring your treads and got a few mixed up. Joe's coosa stringer build is a bar well placed. I wonder if the coosa would support an 440 turbo arrangement? ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 12:46pm
|
Yes, so sorry for the mix-up. Tim and joe seem to be synonymous with coosa builds in this forum. still a newbie... ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 1:01pm
|
I think several here have used this - https://www.oneida-air.com/category.asp?Id=%7bCC6B6F2A-E3D7-4F18-A53C-B5C357DFE131%7d" rel="nofollow - dust deputy ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 1:06pm
Close to 10 years in and I am confident my Coosa unibody boat would hold just about anything thrown at it, its been beaten savagely by waves regularly, been rained on, snowed in, set on fire, filled up with water over the floor numerous times, pulled enough skiers to bend the pylon, fed enough torque to twist off prop shafts, and trailered tens of thousands of miles. It still feels as solid as the day it was built. Regarding the more expensive materials it becomes pretty hard to justify, most of the areas the glass layup is doing more than one thing, like providing impact resistance, sealing materials from water, or holding screws, and not just resisting tensile force. The build up needed for the other requirements ends up being more than adequate for the strength requirements so going with a higher strength to weight ration carbon or Kevlar isn’t worth the expense and increased difficulty of use. In general if you are hand laying up multiple layers of composite and not vacuum bagging it then you are using so much more resin weight than what is needed that it is kind of silly to think of saving a couple pounds with fabric. - ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 1:16pm
|
Yes Gary. Thank you! I ran into this too in another thread. Seems like the way to go if dry airborne particulate is clogging the vacuum filter. Also, I was thinking of making a shrink wrapped bubble similar to the way one winterizes a boat or RV. maybe just a bit bigger using the rub rail as the bottom seal. ...and this thought led me to thinking about using water like they do when grinding and polishing stone or concrete. lots of different types of water ready tools in this trade for wet cutting, grinding and sanding. i.e.. the diamond blade everyone is blaming "cuts like butta". Another example is a wet tile saw. some are nothing more than a 4" grinder clamped to a table and a pan. is occam listing? ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 1:25pm
Cutting or grinding glass use pneumatics with a water spray, like at the dentist. Aim and zip tie a small nozzle at the cutting wheel or whatever, just make a slurry, virtually no dust. of course still don all ppe ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 1:40pm
|
Hey Joe, Indeed I must defer to that fantastic endorsement of your coosa stringer and floor build. I'm learning with every message of yours I read. I think you may be approaching demi-god status when it comes to modifying SNs. One question I haven't found an answer to is, has any one documented their stringers and floor with drawings. Either 1:1 patterns or scale drawings by hand or on CAD? If so, I was thinking of pre-manufacturing the stringers here in my basement in Philly and installing them this spring at the lake in NY. If I can do this, then vacuum bagging and or proper clamping may provide other options with different materials. In any case, making the parts off-site in a heated and convenient location (it's also closer to the coffee pot and my bed..) would be the best if i can locate documents to pattern with even if i were to use traditional materials for my 1980 SN as originally spec'd. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 1:51pm
|
following the water grind tread... Tom, The zip tie solution may work just great! I Think Bosch makes grinder attachments that have several attachments similar to what you are talking about that are used for stone and concrete. I've cut a lot of tile and related materials both wet and dry and you never really want to cut dry if you have the option. could be a wet mess, but it might be better than a dry one.... Still planning. Thank you for your insight! I love this tread thing... It's a first for me. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 1:58pm
|
Roger England did a composite build with a lot of great info of a boat your generation, he might have had cad files, I thought someone did. I drew up my stringers/floor so I could lay them out on the sheets efficiently, but I didn’t model the hull shape accurately so I just got the bottoms close and then shaped them by hand. My files are long gone as I haven’t used Pro-E in ten years or so… ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:01pm
|
I'm in the process of doing wood stringers and a Coosa floor. All with epoxy resin. uk1979 might already have drawings of a factory 70-81 ski nautique structure. However, many of us have chosen to modify the factory design for many reasons. |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:07pm
|
Oh well my fun is over watching guys work dry ( seen as a wright of passage here ) as you can see Yes a cheap Ebay stone grinder/polisher will do the job as 115mm diamond blades screw straight on… my top tip get one with a rubber skirt you can thank me later. Will cut a little slower as max rpm 4000 but no dust. Get a hard and soft pads for diamond 50 grit disc and your good to go. As for gen 2 SN there are drawings in this http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13673&title=uks-78-sn" rel="nofollow - thread and Quinner has them in inches ,PM him for a copy they can be printed out full size on a plotter for templates if yours are mush. Thanks for saving a Gen 2 SN good luck with the build.  ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:09pm
|
Again, Thank you Joe! Ill see what Rodger has to offer. I did realize that your boat is a 2001 hull and mine is a couple years older than that design. But its the concept and implementation that is so impressive to me. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:23pm
|
Roger That!!! You know what they say about the Brits???? (just kidding, of course) Anyway,... it's the carpenter genius in you that I see in this rig. Very cool!!! I think you are hitting above your station!!! This is Exactly what I was thinking about. You are grand Poobah status to me. Just to confess, I spent several years working in Europe after school and this is where i truly learned to appreciate how stone and concrete should be used... Always an honor. Cheers! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: 80SN Barnfind
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:23pm
Pete, any idea what the proper moisture content of US currency should be prior to layup?? ------------- Knowledge comes by taking things apart: analysis. But wisdom comes by putting things together. |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:30pm
|
Hi Pete, If I may be so bold......I was thinking of SDRs or maybe some bitcoins.... Something that will be impervious to Water ??? but I'm just a newbie...  ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:46pm
| Blockchain technology = stronger core material |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:49pm
Noel, I'd shoot for around 8%. Keep in mind, new, it comes off the press at around 18%. If you lay them out in a single layer and have some air circulation, it shouldn't take more than a day to to get them down to the 8% range.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:55pm
|
does it matter what kind of lay-up you use depending on what type of water the boat will be floating in? ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 2:58pm
... the swamp water here in philly can be mighty corrosive....  ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 3:33pm
|
Rodger, Hats off to the Ballast tanks and stringer/floor job you linked me to. Wow!!! Quite the craftsman. Very impressive. I sincerely enjoy the poof of concept the images and description provides. Did you vacuum bag any of your parts or just lay-up and set? I would imagine if you are doing such a complex form vacuum bagging might complicate matters in the wrong way. Brilliant Job!!! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 3:58pm
|
Gregory, You've mentioned vacuum bagging a couple times. Although a great method, I feel it would definitely complicate a stringer job and really isn't needed With careful layup and using a layup roller will do the job very well.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 4:52pm
|
Hello Pete, This is a fine tool. Ive seen them used quite often in videos an such but I've still not outfitted myself with all the gadgets quite yet. Looking forward to buying one or two of these. I would equate this roller with a hammer for carpentry I think. Just feeling out the state-of-the-art with these threads prior to buying the toys and trying to figure out where ill fit in. This sort of boat repair is something I've never done before. Lots to think about. Thanks so much for sharing. Trust me! Ill certainly keep all you guys in the loop as the project starts to take shape. I appreciate your motto, "keep it original" but I just want to tweek a few things so I don't have to deal with rot in the stringers. Any other benefits i can gain in the process all the better. Always willing to listen and learn. Im enjoying the process already. Lots of Fun! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 6:48pm
OMG How could you do something that is not "Original"??? I for one could not sleep at night. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 7:10pm
| I don't sleep at night and also have a sad life. |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 7:32pm
|
Interesting stuff for sure... First, Gneil, thanks for starting this new thread. I started the "hull modification' thread and have managed to morph it into an engine/boat 'diet' thread. Really, I jacked my own thread... Anyway, referenced in that thread is a link to a gen2 SN component weight chart. I found it surprising that a full composite stringer/floor system added 60 lbs. to the hull (if I read it right). So while interesting and worthy of discussion and exploration, not convinced that the materials costs outweigh the benefits. Pretty sure more can be done with new wood replacements to ensure a longer stringer life than was achieved by the factory. ------------- 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 7:52pm
|
Hi Brian, Thank you for the response. I must confess, again. I would like to use traditional materials. But......I would also not to ever have to worry again about the integrity of the hidden structure of the the boat. I am very capable with wood working and it's kind of a easy solution for me. Although, my time and effort significantly out weight the cost of materials. So, in my mind if I'm going to do the repair could I potentially improve the spec.s of the OEM by eliminating the rot of the material. To reference your thread on the weight of the base material, Im just going along with published spec.s of material like coosa board. I don't have a sample of coosa yet but Ill have one in a few days. I hope Ill know a bit more then. With wood in mind, would you consider a baltic birch ply or would you use spruce? ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 8:50pm
If you consider any wood, a CPES is a must. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 9:21pm
|
Hey Pete, Thank you! LVLs are not out of the question. Do you have any sources for CPES? Alway good to do a through search in weighing out my options.  ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 10:04pm
|
Gregory, I've always used Smiths (rotdoc) CPES and feel it's a great product despite the rather high cost. The other day I found I was running low on my supply of Rotdoc so I decided to order some https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97636&familyName=TotalBoat+Penetrating+Epoxy+Kits" rel="nofollow - Total Boat penetrating . since I am hearing good things about Jamestown's Total Boat line. I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet but will report when I do. I will per the instructions mix it with acetone to further reduce it's viscosity. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-14-2017 at 11:00pm
|
Pete, I've used west system products before and was very satisfied. Although, I have never priced out west products against others. I have heard it is the pricy option. Like you I have heard lots about total boat products and plan to do some local searches to see if there is something close by. The topic of drawings for the gen2 SN hull seems to be rare bird and still hoping to find a set. Wish me luck. Till then, Cheers! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 5:48am
Gregory thanks for the kind words ... I only used a cheepo vacuum pump I had at the time on my battery box ... yes I found it a pain to do that's why I used what I had to hand in the factory clear pallet stretch wrap ... found the 2 ft wide is best as its thicker if you need narrower just cut the roll to size on a saw. There are many great minds here from all walks of life that gives the site a great knowledge bank to call on . Don't over think the build and keep your eye on the prize a boat back on the water running documenting everything takes a lot of time . ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 9:11am
If you do go the LVL route, order them without the water resistant coating. Delivery will take longer since the coating is done at the mill and not at the distributor so plan ahead. If you do get them with the coating, a 36 grit belt in a belt sander will remove it in a hurry. Don't worry about removing material in the thickness since remember the LVL will be 1.75" thick compared to a 2X at 1.5". ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 11:04am
|
good morning roger, Thank you for your encouragement and experience. Part of my thought process and training is to plan and document prior to implementation. Its very hard for me to except a "one off" strategy without documentation, so if not for me maybe this effort will help the next fan. As you cracked the dreaded dust problem, I see the stringer issue as one that still needs some help and opportunity for improvement. As a carpenter you come by this naturally, most do not. Also problem solving is fun, sometimes mad fun! I truly appreciate the great minds here in this forum and love the enthusiasm in making and then enjoy the fruits of our labor. The way I see it, if i get a good nights sleep, I'm not overthink it. ...Ha... ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 11:14am
Can you restate? I am not following. While the cost/benefit of the higher end composite fabrics may not be significant in this application, there is certainly some weight benefits of going to a composite core material. Cost difference is in the $500-1000 range, which is relatively small considering the size of the project (especially when taking the number of labor hours into account). |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 11:37am
|
Good morning Pete, LVL's are a good source of material that will provide proper structure as a ready-made material. A couple of questions that come to mind, without knowing the answers are; how does the weight of the material and efficiency of the form effect the overall structure? And might there be a modern form with a traditional material, similar to an air plane wing, that would provide a ready made model for this application? I understand the hull and the floor as doing this with the stringers connecting the two surfaces. Maybe just food for thought. Thank you for the tip of ordering the LVL's with out the coating. I'm guessing this will help with the penetration and adhesion of the CPES. Is this also the thought behind thinning the epoxy with acetone? I also saw the 1 3/4" thickness issue with LVLs. Thanks for the heads up with this. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 11:59am
There is some confusion here, Roger didnt have access to Coosa on the other side of the pond and used a material that was significantly heavier and added a few pounds over wood - IIRC ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 12:30pm
|
Hey All, As many here may know, "Coosa advertises 40-60% lighter than ply-wood". I can't wait for my samples to arrive. Thank you Joe for providing some clarity. Your experience is valued here. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 1:34pm
|
Hey Guys, (...now for something completely different...) I just got off the phone with Sandra at C&S Marine in NJ. She and I had a very productive conversation regarding the design and construction of the new stern seat that i'll have them make for me. Stay tuned. She is sending some samples today. As soon as I figure out the photo posting drill, I will be happy to share any and all that I find out. (don't worry Pete, I'm planning on using the "original" design nothing too zuity or ahead of its time ) I'm looking forward to working with her as she is 3rd gen. upholsters. Very cool! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 2:57pm
You seem to be weight conscious. I have similar feelings concerning weight. That is why I fabbed up for my stern seat frames, very light aluminum. You may be interested in looking at my thread "MUSTANG 17 REBUILD". I removed a lot of original weight and built many parts with light weight in mind. I have even built a ski pylon out of aluminum tubing that is exact replica of the 30+ pound original. It is for looks only as I would not trust it for pulling. Plans are to weigh the boat in a week or so and see what the final figure is. Duane   ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 3:23pm
|
Hi Duane, Very impressive!!! How do you plan to keep them in one place? Also, if they are light do you plan to put them in and take them out frequently? Growing up my Dad had a '86 2001. He had a stern seat that fit like a glove, and i mean that actually it was a sort of friction fit at least the bottom cushion. the seat back was a typical snap in type that hung from the top deck. I think this was OEM. All in all it was cool because if you and a couple of guys were out for some hardcore skiing we just popped it out and left it on the doc. Otherwise you could flop it in when the crew is just out for a spin (i mean high speed turns) the one I plan to make is along those lines with some updated materials and fastening details. Your aluminum frame reminds me of early aircraft framed seats. Seems like it would be extremely light. very cool fab' !!! any designs in the upholstery yet? One thing about the monolithic foam block type, is that they are heavy. ugh! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 3:39pm
Rear seat: bottom hinges and back hooks Front seat: hinges  ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 3:43pm
|
Duane, All I can say, Is... SWEET !!! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 3:51pm
|
I like the color scheme as well. What weight carpet did you end up using? Looks like 32 oz? ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 4:03pm
|
Hi Gregory, Yes I can confirm my stringers are fabricated out glass fibre sheets not the best for weight but strong, It was all I could find here in the UK back then. Have fun with your build I will enjoy what you come up with … most use epoxy but some like vinylester resin or old school polyester resin … as for core many ways to go … Douglass fir build with CEPS , LVLs with CEPS , coosa 26, airex pxc, laminating your own up using 1/2 high density 25 to 30 lb urethane sheet just a few …it will come down to availability over cost over durability and personal preference in the end, remember some need more layup which is a cost. Do what works for you as that is all that matters. Shall keep an eye on your progress and welcome to the site. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 4:19pm
|
Hey Roger, Thank you so much for the encouragement. Very important coming from a seasoned fabricator like yourself. All I can say at this point is that Ill be using an epoxy resin. (West Sys. type) Of the limited research that I've done, this seems to be the easiest to use and has the best compatibility with many dissimilar materials that I will be using for my rebuilding of the stringers and floor. Other than that, it is early days for me and i can tell from this group that the quality bar is so high, I'm not sure I can see it yet. Thank you for you gracious and inviting words. Cool guys! I'm feeling comfortable already. Cheers! ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 5:50pm
|
To whom it may concern; Wow!.... Wow!...Wow!...Wow!!!! I just got my delivery of Coosa Bluewater 26. When i first picked up the package I thought there was a mistake. I thought they forgot to pack the sample. To my amazement out of the envelop dropped a 2"x2"x1/2" graphite colored square. This stuff is insanely light! truly it is amazing. As far as the 80SN, Im not sure if I will use it but, seriously, its Very Cool Stuff!!! If not the stringer rehab, Ill use it somewhere. Seat backs, floor panels, stern panel that covers the fuel cell...etc. So, this brings it full circle with Joe in NY, I get it Joe. This glass reinforced polyurthane is intense. A+ on the material choice. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: December-15-2017 at 8:34pm
|
Gregory, email me or PM me your email address and I will send you the AutoCAD .dwg file Roger created if you want. My EM is CQuinn@GFGR.com. I should probably just send it to Keith also so he could put it in the reference section. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 1:42pm
|
Any recent update available? Am also working out plans for a 'lightweight' '81, with the dreaded stringer rehab coming this fall/winter. Almost finished with motor/trans for now. ------------- 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 4:36pm
|
MW, Hey there! Not much to report here I've been hunkered down here with work...sometimes when it rains it pours! All good though I plan to start the demo etc. in about a month. Chomping at the bit. I can't wait to get into it ; ))). I Have to buy a couple of tools but other than that I'm ready to go. After the demo I will do a precise survey of the hull and map out exactly where the new stringers are going to go. Still leaning toward the Corsa 26 material. "I hate rot"!!! so I'm looking forward to the build and excited to make some little tweeks her and there to utilize that space as best as I can. Still have not made up my mind in the color scheme. I may just go traditional but thinking of some other options too. Hum... Plenty of time for that stuff. Also thinking of some engine mods. heads, intake manifold, things like that. First things first. (that means stringer and floor demo. I plan to do the wet grind method, complete with a catch basin and filter sys. I have a couple of ideas but thinking about building a temporary heat shrink wrap cover to climate control the elements. Here's a question.... Have you ever heard of any one demoing the stringers with out removing the engine ? Sounds silly, but if I don't need to I'd rather not. How everyone had a great winter so far. Spring skiing in right around the corner! Cheers! G. Neil. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 7:05pm
|
If someone is able to demo stringers without removing the engine I would love to see that. Sounds impossible or at least a really bad idea. ------------- '92 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 7:16pm
Sounds impossible to me too. Greg, What's going to hold the engine in place with your idea? How would you do the needed grinding on the hull under the engine? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 7:21pm
I haven't heard of a stringer job with motor in situ.....the motor and trans is so simple to remove..... I am also considering graphics when I get to that phase of this project....it's an '81, but I've always preferred the <'79 graphics..... I've just done alum. heads and intake on the motor....more weight saving measures to come.....(exhaust, cooling system, etc). ------------- 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 7:24pm
Couldn't find/access this thread 'MUSTANG 17 REBUILD', but would love to pour through it... ------------- 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 8:27pm
|
Mourning wood You could Google "Correctcraftfan Duane in Indy Mustang 17 rebuild" or................you can take the easy way out and click the link below. Google is your friend http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38009&title=mustang-17-rebuild" rel="nofollow - Mustang 17 rebuild |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 8:35pm
|
Thanks for the link Yes, google is our friend, the search button on this site...not so much. ------------- 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 9:14pm
|
Hey there Mr. Wood, Sounds like your motor is something I dream about, so far. Funny, I too like the '79 graphics too. For me though, I'm going to have to wait on that bit i think. love to see some pics when you have the time. So, yes, the motor is very easy to remove " the usual way" and it makes a lot of sense. My thought is to block the motor with a temporary cradle of sorts, then remove the old stringers replace/rebuild and then remount. One could also imagine doing it one side at a time... mind you, this is not ideal by any means, but could be possible. builders and contractors underpin, brace and shore up buildings all the time in an effort to repair or replace footings and foundations of buildings. The concept is similar. For obvious reasons, Ive also been shopping for a chain hoist too... ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 9:35pm
Just pull the engine!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 10:19pm
|
Hey Pete, ...??... Very carefully?? Sorry. I couldn't resist. I think grinding directly under the engine may not be necessary. Hand sanding, prep and paint may be all that is required in my case. I get it. Just have to ask though. Sounds like you are suggesting that I buy that chain hoist I saw on craigs list then... I may heed your sage advise...Thank you so much. Greg. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-01-2018 at 11:52pm
|
I would think that lifting the engine out of the boat would take less time than building up enough cribbing to make it safe to work under the engine. Not to mention how many bandaids needed when you bang your head on it. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: March-02-2018 at 12:08am
|
Stepping over dollars to pick up pennies. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: Gneil
Date Posted: March-02-2018 at 12:49am
|
Alright, alright.... Ill just have to think of something else to get a rise out of you guys now.. I found a 2-ton hoist with 50' of chain for $50.- on craigs list thats now on Greg's list. Can't wait to start. Ill take plenty of pics when I do. Cheers to all! Greg. ------------- G. Neil 1980 SN |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-02-2018 at 1:06am
|
Glad to hear you got the chain hoist. I’m in the middle of a stringer job now and can not imagine doing it all with an engine in there, blocked chocked or hanging. You need room. And you will need to grind under there. I look forward to seeing your project! ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |