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Marina Says New Carb?

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4236
Printed Date: November-27-2024 at 10:02am


Topic: Marina Says New Carb?
Posted By: 32General
Subject: Marina Says New Carb?
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 11:57am
Finally took boat to Marina. It starts great cold and runs fine when its running. When it gets hot it will not start. Marina said they rebuilt the carb 3 times. Thought they had it the 3rd time, I had on lake for about an hour shut it off and would not restart? Marina said something about the carb was flooding it out after it shut off when its hot? Do I need a new carb? It runs fine when running. Can the starter cause this at all, sometimes its just clicks once or twice and then it kicks in??



Replies:
Posted By: 77stang
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 12:16pm
how long does it have to cool down before it will restart. this sounds like an electrical resistance problem to me.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1360&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - '77 Mustang 17


Posted By: 32General
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 12:34pm
Usually 1 to 2 hours to cool down and then will start. It only takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the problem to occur. Take off lift run for 5 min and then won't start or will have to crank and crank and sometimes will start and sometimes will not.


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 12:39pm
there may be a slight issue with the carb but buying a new one isn't going to fix it. The float could be a little high but I would check the timing and the coil.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 32General
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 1:40pm
Marina said they put new floats in and adjusted. Just talked to them again and he said he adjusted timing also. Coil is fairly new but it gets so hot that I can't touch it?


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 1:45pm
sounds like the coil is an issue what type of igntion system do you have? points, electronic conversion, electroinc dist? if it's a point style is the ballast resitor good? what type of carb is it holley, edlebrock, rochester?

What did they set the float heigth at? what is the timing at?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 32General
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 1:53pm
I have the old points and resitor style. Its a Holley carb on 351 Ford(the original I think). Not sure the float height or what tming is at? But I had a buddy at lake set the timing before I took to Marina and then Marina said they checked it and it was fine. So hopefully with 2 people saying its good they no what they are talking about? I only boat this boat a month ago and beginning to wish that I didn't?? I'm not a motor guy, but does not make sense to me that its only when its hot I have this problem?


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 2:05pm
replace the ballast resistor you could be sending to much voltage to the coil and points.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 32General
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 2:19pm
The ballast resistor is bypassed, the coil says use without external resistor??


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 2:31pm
so does the coil have an internal resistor? if it doesn't then you have to use a ballast resistor or you burn up the coil and points both and that's why it's getting hot.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 32General
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 2:41pm
Old owner bought new coil and bypassed resistor because coil said use "without external resistor". My buddy saw it was bypassed so he hooked it up not knowing what type of coil it was. Either way it does not start when hot hooked up to resistor or not? Should I just by new coil and start over or can I test what I have?


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 2:44pm
i would say the balast resistor is bad and you need a new one. i would also say the the timing isn't exactly right because the dwell as not been set, and you cannot set the timing correctly until the dwell is correct.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 32General
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 2:51pm
Sorry 79nautique what in the world is the dwell?


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 3:01pm
it's the angular measurement of the points. setting the points with a feller gauge gets you close but you have to have a dwell meter to get it right, then you can adjust the timing and carb and everthing else.

If your going to replace anything it need's to be the old distributor with a new electroinc version or a conversion kit to eliminate the points.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 32General
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 3:08pm
Ok I just looked on Skidim and your talking about the breakerless ignition for around $100 or there is a electric distributor kit for $450?


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 3:10pm
you can get a mallory unit from summit racing for a little over $300

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 77stang
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 3:41pm
Originally posted by 32General 32General wrote:

Old owner bought new coil and bypassed resistor because coil said use "without external resistor". My buddy saw it was bypassed so he hooked it up not knowing what type of coil it was. Either way it does not start when hot hooked up to resistor or not? Should I just by new coil and start over or can I test what I have?


this is a significant post to your problem.

i think you have the wrong coil on it and you need a coil that is for a points ignition. you can -

- keep the new coil and purchase an ei conversion that reguires a resister bypass about $50 to $100 dollars

- puchase something similar to skidm for $300

now, you may have a problem else where in you electrical system such as battery cables, or ignition resister that can (and frequently do) cause a the problem you are discribing.

if i were you i'd do either of the ei items mentioned above knowing of course that if the problem still doesnt go away you need to investigate the cables.

anyway thats my two cents

-

-

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1360&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - '77 Mustang 17


Posted By: 32General
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 6:08pm
Ok so it sounds like I need and electronic conversion kit. I've read some other posts on this site and some have had great success and some have had nightmares and even switched back to points. I tired of the problems already so I guess it can't hurt, just takes cash!!! What is the best kit/where to buy and should I have a marina/mechanic do this?? Pretty sure I don't want to tackle that.


Posted By: joed
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 6:29pm
Hey 32,

I'm a new boat owner and not much mechanical experience... I got my Electronic Conversion from

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/prestoli.htm - Pertronix

The install is easy if you can follow directions. So if you don't have mucho money to throw at this thing... I'd suggest you try this one on your own.

Just my 2cents.

Joe


Posted By: 77stang
Date Posted: July-20-2006 at 8:33pm
I have a pertronix - have had it about three years but only installed it about a month ago. i'm pleased with it and yes the boat runs better. Note the pertronix i have doesn't require you to bypass the resister and you have to use a points type coil.

and yes you cab tackle this yourself

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1360&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - '77 Mustang 17


Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: July-21-2006 at 10:28am
The fact that your coil is getting that hot would lead me to think....wrong type of coil and or balister needs replaced...or wired wrong???
Most of us on the older engines are using a 12 volt coil that requires an external balister...my pertronix ei...set up is using the balister with the same coil I used with the points set up....

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stang



Face plants are not that funny when it's you face!



http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air






Posted By: 77stang
Date Posted: July-21-2006 at 10:31am
Originally posted by stang72 stang72 wrote:

The fact that your coil is getting that hot would lead me to think....wrong type of coil and or balister needs replaced...or wired wrong???
Most of us on the older engines are using a 12 volt coil that requires an external balister...my pertronix ei...set up is using the balister with the same coil I used with the points set up....



thats the one i got

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1360&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - '77 Mustang 17


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-21-2006 at 10:37am
you can buy a coil with an internal resistor and eleminate the ballast resistor.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-21-2006 at 8:51pm
If his coil had "use no external resistor" stamped on it, it has an internal resistor.

When a failing coil gets hot the winding often opens up. Allowing it to cool will allow it to function. What you describe is a text book bad coil.

If replacing the coil fixes the problem you should still install the Pertronix kit - it is a light years leap from points ignition.

My advise is when replacing your coil get a coil that requires a resistor. If you keep your breaker points you will need to put your resistor back into the circuit.

If you install the Pertronix kit follow the instructions regarding the resistor. You may be able to leave the resistor jumpered out when using the Pertronix kit providing for a hotter spark then you would get with the resistor in the circuit.

In other words, the primary will reduce your spark voltage somewhat, but the ignition is designed that way. The resistor is needed to keep your points and coil from burning up. This is somewhat of a holdover from the days when the resistor was shorted out during cranking to allow a higher spark voaltage to help get the engine started - but the high current would burn up the coil and points if the resistor was not brought back into the circuit after cranking.

Follow the instructions on the Pertronix kit and you shouldn't have a problem.

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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang



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