Prestolite Electronic Module Help.
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4255
Printed Date: December-03-2024 at 2:17pm
Topic: Prestolite Electronic Module Help.
Posted By: Morto
Subject: Prestolite Electronic Module Help.
Date Posted: July-22-2006 at 5:55am
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Hi again everyone, got to the point of re-installing the distributor the other day ('82 Tique PCM351W - the engine was new in '92 and has the screw down cap plus this boat hasn't run for three years) The information I've been able to glean says that after connecting both the electronic mudule wires to the coil (they were connected correctly) I should see 12v at the positive terminal. I have 12v there with neither wire connected and with the black wire connected but as soon as I put the red wire on the voltage drops right down like it's open circuit. It seems to me that it's fried. The wires looked a bit ratty so I snipped them right back to make sure there was no shorting but no help. The biggest problem for me is sourcing the stuff as we live in Brunei. Assuming this thing isn't working does anyone know what the circuit diagram looks like? In other words if I soak it in thinners or paint stripper overnight is it fixable? Remember I can't just run down to SKIDIM. Stuff takes a fortnight to get here if at all!
Thanks. |
Replies:
Posted By: 77stang
Date Posted: July-22-2006 at 2:46pm
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what do you want to soak? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1360&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - '77 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: Morto
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 2:20am
| The whole thing, I've seen a tutorial on how to rewind a transformer and you soak the thing in paint stripper overnight to remove all the old insulation and stuff. What I really want to know is how to test if it's working before I order another one. If I'm bored one day I might dismantle the old one to see how it works!! |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 8:18am
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if you shorten the wires from the dist that was a mistake and you may have just screwed yourself. There should be four wires that go to the coil two from the harness two from the dist.
Don't know what you would want to soak but that's a big waiste of time and won't fix anything to start with. With a 82 that should be a point dist. and have a ballast resistor and you shouldn't see 12v it should be more like 8 or 9v. when conneted and there is no module to mess with. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Morto
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 8:59am
| As I mentioned the engine is a '92, and it has a module, a screw down cap and no points. Does anyone know how to test the thing? |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 9:41am
I took it that you rebuilt the motor in 92. I guess you should have said you replaced the motor with a 1992 motor in 1992. And it doesan't make any difference it still should have four wires going to the coil. And if your trying to soak the module that's a waiste of time as well because it will not do anything it's not a tranformer to starter with the coil is the only thing close to a transformer and once you remove the case it junk anyway so I don't know what the f**k your trying to do but obviuosly your lost. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Morto wrote:Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 10:00am
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I believe he is talking about removing the potting with the stripper and trying to find out which resisor, diode, etc is the problem and replacing it and repotting. I kinda doubt the potting will just disolve and leave a functional board underneath, but since his boat is broken and there is nothing better to do in brunei... anyway I don't have the info you would need to test it much less repair it but in the same situation I could see myself giving it a try if I was sure it was broken... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 10:25am
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92 isn't that the pro-tech ignition system which is a distributorless system? if so then your not going to fix the module it is going to have to be replaced and actually you should throw out the whole system and get a distributor set-up to replace it with. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Morto
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 11:02pm
| Alright, alright, the engine receipts say it was new from PCM in '92. I have no idea what actual year the engine was built or what the original set-up was just that the distributor now has a electronic drop in module and retains the ballast etc. JoeinNY is absolutely correct, I'll be bored waiting for a replacement and wonder if it's fixable maybe as a spare. I take it the four wires are two from the distributor, plus the ignition and tach from the harness? |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-25-2006 at 12:14am
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Morto, I am a DIY guy myself and I appreciate your initiative. BUT, I have been rewinding coils (not automotive), transformers, and electric motors all of my life and I can tell you from experience - you might as well pour you a new hull as to try to repair that coil. Those things are layer wound on a machine with epoxy insulating varnish. There is no softening up the varnish so don't waste the paint thinner. Even if you could get to the winding to take the data (turn count and wire size) you would never get it all back in the right spot. I doubt that you have access to the necessary wire and insulation.
Sorry to rain on your parade but I didn't want to see you waste the thinner. Do like me: for times like this you just have to have a 2nd "back-up" boat. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: Morto
Date Posted: July-25-2006 at 11:05am
| You got a spare back-up that floats? |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-25-2006 at 11:28am
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I would replace the module but would double check and make sure the rest of the wiring is correct and that you have the right voltage. Start with removing the dist leads from the coil leaving the tach/ + lead attached then making sure you have twelve volts on one side of the ballast resistor and about 9 on the other side, then check it again at the coil and make sure it matchs the low side of the BR. Then make sure the leads from the dist are connected right and you get the same reading as the low side of the BR, if not then look for shorts or reversed wires, you may see the voltage drop slightly .5-1v tops. But basicly the module in the dist is plug and play works or doesn't work.
What model and brand Dist is it? can you post some pictures? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-25-2006 at 6:56pm
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Yeh Morto, it floats. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: July-25-2006 at 7:30pm
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yup, I have a 92 PCM. I have the Pro-Tec system and its long gone. You will have to go back to distro system and rewire the whole thing. I talked to the dealer the other day and it's about $500 in parts and $500 in labor to switch that system out. sucks.... I'm crossing my fingers that mine is still ok after a few miss fires at start up (see other thread about spark plugs)
cheers. SkiDim sells one, but there is another company they said that has a good handle of this conversion kit called TransPacific Trans Pacific Distributors Address: 1941 Walters Court Fairfield, CA 94533 Phone: 707-426-6670 Email: N/A I have called them yet.. but it might be worth a shot |