prop and prop shaft replacement
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4257
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 11:22pm
Topic: prop and prop shaft replacement
Posted By: pinelake
Subject: prop and prop shaft replacement
Date Posted: July-23-2006 at 4:50pm
| Hi just bought a 82 2001. Last weekend we hit a rock, and deformed the prop. A friend tried straightening it and now its beyond repair. He did say the shaft was slightly bent. Is it hard to remove and replace the prop shaft? any instructions would be appreiciated. It is just every marine engineer is working in France for the next month, and i spent money I didn't have to buy the boat. Still best buy I ever made. thanks for reading hope some one can help |
Replies:
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-23-2006 at 5:40pm
|
Slightly bent is like slightly pregnant..
Source your parts at skidim.com and you can't go wrong. you need a prop-puller to start. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Gonne929
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 7:46am
|
I agree with "GottaSki" the guys at skidim.com will take good care of you. I just replaced my 4 blade OJ to the 3 blade Acme #540 on my 84 2001. That prop will run awsome on your boat.
You are going to have to invest in a prop puller, unfortunately this will probably not be the only time you will have to use it. If the shaft is bent you will have to replace that as well. The guys at Skidim.com will most likely know what you need but generally it is good to know when ordering 1) length 2) shaft diameter 3)coupler diameter and 4) single or double taper. You may have to invest in a puller for the shaft as well. How is the strut? Was that damaged as well? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4946&sort=&pagenum=2 - 84 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5573&sort=&pagenum=1 - 99 Nautique |
Posted By: pinelake
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 9:38am
|
cheers for the advice. The strut is fine. A couple of friends say that the prop shaft can be straightened? I know that I will need to remove the rudder but is the shaft only held in place by the two screw type things where it meet the engine. I dont want to use brut force unless I know that there is nothing holding it in place. When I open the compartment behind the engine there is a brass fixing around the shaft and a silver case with a allan key fiting. Do any of these need loosening? sorry to be a pain as you can tell, I dont no much about boats.
Cheers |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 9:50am
|
Sounds a bit like a http://www.correctcraftfan.com/articles/PSS.asp - Packless Shaft Seal or something similar, if packless it probably doesnt need to be loosened however you should be careful upon reinstall to not damage it. Don't know about the brass fitting, maybe post us a picture? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 9:59am
|
can you take any pictures? and post them? regardless if it is a packless seal or not you still have to disconnect it at the coupling where it meets the transmission and you may have to loosen the collar on the packless shaft seal to remove it and you will have to remove the coupler as well before you will be able to remove the shaft.
So to do the job you have to remove the rudder, remove the prop, unbolt the coupling from the transmission, remove the coupling from the shaft, lossen the stuffing box or collar to a dripless shaft seal then slide the shaft out of the boat. If the engine is removed then you don't have to remove the coupler from the shaft, but I'm assuming that the engine is still in. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 11:16am
|
Since you need to replace the shaft (I advise against trying to have it straightened)and the prop, then you can forego the prop puller and just remove the shaft with the prop still attached. If you are going to have the prop repaired as a spare, then take the prop and shaft to the prop shop and they will remove the prop for you.
Maybe you are just talking about the safety collar on the shaft. If so, simply loosen the set screw and the collar will slide off the shaft as it is pulled from the boat. You will need to loosen the two set screws at the shaft hub, loosen the collar set screw, loosen the packing jamb nut and cap. Remove the rudder. Pull on the shaft or using a block of wood on the hub of the prop give it a blow with a hammer. Not too hard as you do not want to damage anything in the transmission such as a thrust bearing. If the shaft does not want to pull out of the hub, then you should seperate the hub from the tranny flange. Place a short socket of a diameter just smaller than the shaft between the hub and flange. Using longer bolts, slowly and equally pull the hub and flange back together. This will force the shaft out fo the hub. File off any burrs to the collar and packing nut will clear the shaft end. PS: I am not familiar with dripless packing seals, so follow others advice related to the drippless packing. ------------- |
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 12:31pm
|
Agree with the Acme 540 on your boat...my buddy tried mine and kept it...he ordered another for me and tried it this weekend (finally)...great improvement...smooth as butter and a real performer! ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 1:00pm
|
Caution, I have seen the flange warp easily using the "press out the shaft using the bolts and a socket" method, it took remarkable little torque to cause the damage and its impossible to align the engine afterward. Warp just a few thousanths, then coupling is then junk.
I'm not saying its impossible, but it would have to be only modestly stuck and done with discipline. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 1:04pm
|
Good word of caution, I did not think of that possibility. So, I suggest you just snug up the bolts and then firmly tap the hub with a hammer to setup a vibration that will hopefully help "break" the shaft free from the hub. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 1:10pm
that would work fine if it was a tapered shaft but most orgnial shaft are not tapered and beating on it is going to do nothing but damage. Disconnect the coupling from the output shaft/flange, remove the set screws from the coupling then use a puller to remove the coupling from the shaft then remove the shaft from the hull. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
David F wrote:Posted By: Munday
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 1:17pm
|
I use an axle puller.With a little rig I built.
Just slide hammer it straight out the back. Works very well on double tapered shafts too. My caution is for when you replace these parts. Be sure your set bolts are well indexed,I've seen plenty that came right out in Reverse. goodluck Munday |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 1:32pm
Pure hogwash. Putting pressure or tension on a stuck part and then setting up a vibration frequently allows the part to "break" free. You will notice I said firmly tap, not beat on it. Sheesh! Of course a puller will work, but not everyone has a puller. And, the tapping works with pullers as well. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 1:49pm
|
doesn't work when a keyway is involved, since the keyway takes out most if not all of the slop created by misalignment and size between the coupler and shaft. Hammering fixs everthing for someone that doesn't know what they are doing or one that doesn't care to do the job right. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 2:36pm
|
Craig:
Give it a try, if you wish. 79Nautique is a purist and often disagrees with techniques and tricks of the trade that do not fit within his purist ideals. The "hammering" may not work, but often does. You may find tha that shaft comes out of the hub easily...usaully does. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 2:55pm
far from a purist just hate when people give bullsh*t advice and use a hammer more than their brain or the proper tools. There is no excuse for using the wrong tools for the job especially in todays world when 99% of the tools needed for the job can be barrowed/rented/bought from the local automotive parts store to do the job right and not have to worry about some jerry riging bullsh*t contraption that just tears sh*t up and makes things worse. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: July-24-2006 at 3:12pm
|
Sigh! ------------- |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-27-2006 at 2:20am
|
Man, ya'll sure know how to break in a newbie. (Let him ask me how to do it - I'll tell him to get a torch fired up and burn through the shaft - no hammering or coupler warping there!) ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: The Dude
Date Posted: July-27-2006 at 9:25am
|
After all this, I'm guessing when he loosens things up the shaft will uncontrolably slide out of the hull and he'll wonder what everyone was talking about!
------------- Mullet Free since 93 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=717&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 95 Sport |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-27-2006 at 9:29am
|
I was thinking the same thing, I have never even needed to use a prop puller a good firm pull and I always end up on my back holding a prop. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: pinelake
Date Posted: July-30-2006 at 9:41am
|
Big thankyou to everyone. U guys gave me the confidence to have a go and it came of easy. will be bothering you when the new parts arrive, but i will try everything in reverse first cheers
Boat virgin. |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-31-2006 at 10:06pm
|
Awsome! It wasn't that long ago that I got my CC and I didn't know squat until I found this site. Now I do know squat. Pretty soon you'll know squat too!!! ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-31-2006 at 10:15pm
|
Yup, we don't mind sharing squat. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: PNALEWAJK
Date Posted: September-12-2013 at 7:38pm
|
Hey Guys, Mind if I jump in..? I have a couple of related questions. First, my grandson hit some rocks with my '87 Ski Nautique. I wasn't with him, so I don't know how hard it hit. I'm sure there is damage to the prop, but again not sure how much. I only took a short test drive afterwards. I could only feel a slight vibration at about 4K. I do however feel a stronger vibration in reverse at maybe 1k. I'm hoping it's just prop damage, and something that can be repaired. What do you think? The second part of my question is I know very little about these props and should I need to replace it, what would be the best bet. I've seen references to Acme 540 and 542, but don't know what makes them different. We primarily use the boat for tubing and sking. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Pete ------------- Corvette Pete |
Posted By: dwouncmd
Date Posted: September-12-2013 at 9:28pm
|
Wow, resurrecting an old post. You can use a dial gauge to check deflection of the shaft with the gauge clamped to the strut. There should be no more than .003 inch deflection. Check aft of the strut (most likely place to bend) and forward of the strut. It is also possible for the strut to get bent. There are many other posts to help. I actually think Google is a little better than site's search feature. I am not the prop guy, but the ACME CNC props will outperform the original equipment, and I think the 540 is the one, but I will defer to the experts. The old one can be reconditioned as a spare (Delta props has done two of mine). Hope that helps. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6535&sort=&pagenum=2" rel="nofollow - 89 SN <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6567&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow">7 |
Posted By: PNALEWAJK
Date Posted: September-13-2013 at 11:58am
|
Thanks. I guess I should have started a new post. I actually found this post on Google, but I didn't look at the date. ------------- Corvette Pete |
Posted By: ChowHound
Date Posted: September-16-2013 at 9:57pm
| -deleted - saw date/resurection |