Cutlass bearing / shaft question
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43258
Printed Date: November-15-2024 at 4:52pm
Topic: Cutlass bearing / shaft question
Posted By: gt40KS
Subject: Cutlass bearing / shaft question
Date Posted: July-27-2018 at 1:33am
Being new to direct drives just last year, I'm not really sure what to consider 'normal'. Those that remember, when I first bought the boat not only was the cutlass bearing toast, but the shaft was bent due to a very badly aligned engine. After replacing both and aligning the engine to well within spec, I remember being able to spin the prop by hand and though the cutlass was dry and obviously wouldn't spin like a well oiled needle bearing, it would to an extent free spin for a revolution or two.
Fast forward to this evening. While checking the under side of the boat I haphazardly gave the prop a spin - or at least tried. This time the prop would not free spin. Instead it squealed and screeched, vibrating the strut in the process. When I installed the shaft after my new installation I remember it seemed a bit tighter fit than when I installed my first new shaft last fall, but I don't remember it groaning like this when I spun it, though I do remember it being tight enough that it wouldn't spin freely. In retrospect, I should have probably mentioned and addressed this earlier ......Now before the landslide of comments about a misaligned shaft starts, yes I did double, triple, quadruple check the alignment - from the strut to the log and from the log to the engine coupler, using a brace about half way between the strut and log to make sure it didn't bow.
So the question here is if this is within the norm or is the cutlass bearing too snug on the shaft and if it isn't normal what is the best way to handle it?
As always, thanks in advance
EDIT: Forgot to mention that I wet the shaft & cutlass down thoroughly and gave it a spin which eliminated the squealing, but I could still tell it seemed very snug and wouldn't free spin more than a full revolution or so.
------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40
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Replies:
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-27-2018 at 3:34am
I think if your cutlass bearing is rubber like the oem it will have some drag on it. Mine is the plastic bearing and it spins more freely. Both work. It might be worth loosening the 4 bolts on the prop shaft and make sure your alignment has not shifted. This was a new installation maybe something settled? It would take a little time but put your mind at ease. Mark
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-27-2018 at 7:33am
MrMcD wrote:
It might be worth loosening the 4 bolts on the prop shaft and make sure your alignment has not shifted. Mark | Joe, I agree, it wouldn't hurt to take a look.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-27-2018 at 10:36am
Mine would never coast.
If you can spin it with 1 finger, it is good.
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: July-27-2018 at 10:46am
Awesome, that's what I needed to know. I didn't realize there were different materials used for the cutlass bearing. When I replaced the bearing last fall it was a 2-piece set. After the accident the entire strut was replaced with a new OEM and I'm sure it came with the factory 1-piece bearing so a difference in materials could easily explain this new noise and apparent resistance. But I'll recheck the alignment when I get back in town to be sure. Thanks!
------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40
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Posted By: Mountain Man
Date Posted: July-27-2018 at 4:25pm
The cutlass bearing was designed to be wet when the shaft turns. Run some water on the high side of of the bearing where the shaft interfaces and you may notice it is easier to spin and the vibration gone.
Good Luck!
Steve
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-27-2018 at 5:43pm
I agree with Mt. man If you have the one piece rubber as I do it’s harder to turn I usually use a shot of WD 40 to spin it. Do that first then if it’s still abnormal investigate further.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-27-2018 at 6:51pm
Joe, you're just never happy are ya'?
First one was too loose, this one's too tight.
Here's an old thread in the link that talks about the "plastic" cutlass bearings and how easily they spin, just like your's did as compared to the rubber lined ones.
You already said you wet the shaft and bearing and it spun easily but not like your plastic one that had a revolution or two.of spin.
I don't think you have any problem at all just like SNobsessed said earlier
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28649" rel="nofollow - link
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: July-29-2018 at 2:12pm
Yes, I'm a nit-picky old, fat, bald guy, but the term "cutless" or "cutlass" was a brand name for a bearing. These bearings are correctly called: "strut bearings" or "stave bearings". Just sayin...
JQ
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited
Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow
Aqua skiing, ergo sum
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-29-2018 at 3:40pm
Cranky Pants
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Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: July-29-2018 at 6:55pm
"spin freely" ?? I've never seen a prop on a S.N. "spin freely"...meaning, give it a flick and it'll continue to spin...my prop I can "turn" with one or two fingers, but it doesn't continue to spin if I stop turning it.
------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride!
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: July-30-2018 at 12:44am
Be careful spinning a new ACME by hand...you might end up with a nasty cut.
(The voice of experience)
JQ
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited
Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow
Aqua skiing, ergo sum
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Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: July-30-2018 at 1:44am
Stave .... Cutless/ cutlass .... learn something every day on this site! But by 'freely' I wasn't meaning that it would just coast for a while or something - guess I didn't really explain with the correct words. So far many folks have indicated that while it won't spin 'free' as if it was a machined needle bearing, they can spin their prop with just a finger or two 'easily' .... maybe that's the word I should have chosen. And this is more what I was referring to - the fact that I would have to grab the prop with both hands and 'break' it free first, then use quite a bit of force with my whole hand to get it to turn at all. "One or two fingers" ..... Not a chance - probably would end up with a nasty cut. But again that was with a dry, rubber stave bearing (see what I did there - we'll get that back in use before long) When wet the prop would turn much easier, and with two fingers just still with a bit more force that I remember.
------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-30-2018 at 11:05am
The packing gland creates some friction too.
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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