Tranny Filter
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4519
Printed Date: January-16-2025 at 6:47pm
Topic: Tranny Filter
Posted By: GottaSki
Subject: Tranny Filter
Date Posted: August-15-2006 at 10:46pm
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After my rebuild I was unimpressed with the loose screen in the BW, and the gook found in the bottom of the sump - and figgured I didn't want the new bronze friction material in my bearings and seals.
no rocket science here, but for under 80 bucks I suppose it can't hurt. Thought I'd share... Fluid goes to the filter before the cooler, when the viscosity is lower at temp. Filter housing bolts to the rear of the head, fitting and hose from the local hydraulic hose place.  ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Replies:
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: August-15-2006 at 10:57pm
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You also increased the fluid amount, by how much? ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-15-2006 at 11:07pm
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I suppose about a quart, because its the same FL1A filter that the engine has.
One of the elbows on the filter is higher than the other, hard to see at this angle. New fittings are Parker-reusable; filter housing was from Summit. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 2:27am
| Hmmm. I didn't like all the particles in the sump either but I'm not sure the filter is such a good Idea. I'm concerned about the flow being large enough. |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 2:28am
Hey, maybe you should call Eric from Albania and see what he thinks...
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 8:24am
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I don't think the flow would be effected enough to worry about but I would worry about those cheap fram filters. Quit using them after reading some posts awhile back comparing filters and use AC/Delco filters now beleive it's a PH1. Pretty good idea it would be nice if eric would chime in but then again we'll have to waite and see. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 9:16am
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Yes, Good eye,! there is a PH8A on the tranny because I needed something quick, but a Motorcraft FL1A on the engine and I have another FL1A ready to go on the tranny once it gets some more hours after the rebuild. Its getting harder to find a AC filters for the ford on the shelf nowadays, I know AC was tops, but I noticed the construction of the AC filters I buy changed recently, I think like most Delco things, their quality is not assumed constant.
You see the line pressure gauge, it indicates no change in regulated pressure. I was wary of the flow too, but I figgured that volume of warm tranny fluid though that much media should need little delta-p. No data to back that up, though. The manual indicates a minimum ID for cooler plumbing, that we didn't violate. Discussion is good, thanks. Maybe I should cut this filter can open when it comes off? ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 10:20am
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It's funny old eric is quick for a sale on the other post but screw all of the other guys questions what a d*ck head. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 11:43am
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the screen is designed to remove large fragments of a failed part,in order for no further damage to occur. simply changing your trans fluid twice a season eliminates sludge, sludge is normal, there really isnt a need for a filter in these transmissions.During winter fill the trans to the very top eliminating the rust line up in the colder states of course drain in spring and refill, NEVER put additives or synthetics in them
there you go bc WANABE ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 11:57am
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thanks sir ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-16-2006 at 5:10pm
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adding a note, you really do not want any restrictions in the cooler system, BW wants a minimum of 3/8's id fittings in order to keep fluid flowing unrestricted. pumps do not create psi., restrictions do. the borg pump was originally found in industrial applications and they used for the marine trans, it flows at least twice of what the trans needs. so if you create restrictions it increases psi which in turn wears out certain items in the trans. such as seal rings, pump gears, it will actually also rob horse power because now it requires more to turn the shaft. that also goes for hi-volume pumps in engines. if they were good for engines chevy or ford would put them in ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-18-2006 at 8:19am
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Understood, but, thats mostly anecdotal information that was already considered. And of course waited till end-of season before sharing.
The cooler sees the flow that the regulator dumps to maintain 130 psi, a psi or two more on the dump side won't wear a pump that going to see 130 psi all day whether the filter is there or not. We could expect trouble if this was an all-weather fishing boat due to winter-cold fluid, or if I left the filter on for five-ten years and let it clog up, but then why go through the trouble of adding a filter without changing it regularly...not my style. weighed the cost to benefit of modest risk to the system against not having bronze running though the components, having switched from fiber to bronze plates. I certainly understand it doesn't need it. Lot of hours on it this season, pulling at the skiclub. So far so good. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-18-2006 at 3:38pm
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a filter in the system... its a loaded topic a filter will certainly help if your one of these guys who never checks his oil or alignment etc... its good for catching bearing material, cast iron, and so on, its a catch 22 a guy who doesnt check his oil will most certainly not put a filter on it, but as for yourself i can tell you do maintain your boat and i know the trans oil gets changed regularly eliminating sediment build up.with the filter, it will last forever. We've seen well maintained transmissions that are 25 years old without any sludge in the bottem of them and look new on the inside, any reason for the bronze clutches? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-18-2006 at 4:29pm
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I see..
First 800 hours on this boat were hard and neglected till I got it in 96. If it got changed twice its first 14 years I'd be surprised. Hense the sediment in the case. My disks were originally fiber. Fiber chunks were in the case. No reason, other than internet order sent me bronze; I balked till folks here calmed me down, they having installed bronze without issue. However, someone like you privy to the pros and cons of fiber or bronze would have been adventagous; there must be more to it? I shimmed the forward clutch but careful not bind the pack, and put in a new forward spring with the seals. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-18-2006 at 6:33pm
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In ski boats beacause of prop size I use high graphite plates (ford fmx, trade secret) now available recently is kevlar plates, hav'nt tried those. bronze plates are a more durable plate and found in many different applications such as work boats and pleasure boats turning larger props. the bronze can handle slippage to a point, and the paper plates hate slippage but... they have about 30% more clamping force which means they can handle more hp. never had any issues with either plate. a clutch plate is either good or bad no in betweens. if the plates are bad there is a reason for it. on alot of fishing boats you will see trolling valves which allows the plates to slip and the plates do not wear out, they use the trolling valve for slower boat speeds. you can use this valve up to 1100 rpm's but after that the plates cannot disapate the heat quick enough and thats when you get the warpage and no nuetral. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-20-2006 at 11:21am
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gottaski< where did you get that silver paint, looks good, i have yet to find a silver that wont run or streak different colors ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-20-2006 at 3:40pm
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I thought someone would notice...
Its rustoleum "HAMMERED" line. Give the illusion of hammered metal, and hides imperfections great because they blend into the effect, but you do end up with different colors, just uniformly everywhere, you can see it on the bellhousing. I'm using the silver on the engine/tranny as i go, and I used the black on the manifolds and engine mounts with great results. plus it sounds good, like my weekends. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: The Dude
Date Posted: August-20-2006 at 6:42pm
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I agree, it looks great. Sounds funny too. ------------- Mullet Free since 93 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=717&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 95 Sport 1978 Ski Nautique |