Transmission rebuild problems
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4662
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 6:16pm
Topic: Transmission rebuild problems
Posted By: jimbo
Subject: Transmission rebuild problems
Date Posted: August-29-2006 at 8:36pm
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I've got a Borg Warner 1:1; Model 10-17-003. With Bronze clutches.
I put the forward clutch pack back in the ring gear but I'm missing a snap ring. According to the repair manual in the reference section, there should be three. One in front of the forward clutch cylinder; one between the Belleville spring and the clutch pressure plate; and one between the rear pressure plate and the ring gear itself. The one you have to measure the groove and slip in the back of the ring gear. That's the one I'm missing. I Don't remember taking that one out and I put everything in order and kept it that way and it's not there. I measured the groove for the ring and it was less than 1.2 mm (I couldn't get that gauge in the gap while pressing down on the pack with my hand. The smallest range in the reference manual was 1.3-1.4 mm. Does this mean I don't need that ring? Did they stop using it in the 10-17-003 Model. Did the last guy that rebuilt it leave it out? |
Replies:
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 8:39am
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I'm having trouble confirming which one you are talking about. Can you identify it by number on the blow-up drawing? ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 10:17am
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Eric? ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 10:48am
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the 10-17 gets 2 snap rings in the pack, you can not adjust the clearance in these packs with the snap rings. the thicker of the 2 goes in first against the endplate then you install the forward cylinder (use heat on the drum) dont turn it PURPLE then you put the thinner snap ring in the groove. what reverse plates are you using???? make sure to put steel hub ones in not the bronze. note: the 10-18 model uses 3 snap rings in the pack and you can adjust clearance in that pack by using selective snap rings ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 2:02pm
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Gottaski: #75 is the ring I was missing.
Thanks eric. Sounds like I was following the 10-18 instructions. What do you mean by steel hubbed reverse plates? I've got two of http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R160008 - These I'm going to put in between http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R160009 - The steel clutch plate and the http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=BOR71-71 - Reverse clutch pressure plate . The bronze ones aren't the right choice? Or are you talking about something else? |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 2:12pm
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Jim
eric has a source for a better reverse plate than the bronze style skidim and others sell ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 3:26pm
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your probably putting 2 bronzes and 1 steel, what i use is fiber steel backed reverse plates. i use them in ski boat transmissions and race boat applications, impossible to snap in half, make sure you put in new revese return springs also, how is your pump? if you can feel anything with your fingernail it is bad. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 3:56pm
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How much do the fiber backed steel ones run?
This is the second time in three years the bronze ones have broken. I replaced the springs; had too. They were all shot. I think the pump is ok. But I'll check this evening. Do you mean run my fingernail across the gear teeth to check for dents and bumps? Or check for ridges on the internal housing surface? I should have the tranny completely a$$embled this evening. Any suggestions on an easy way to get the drivegear to side into the forward clutchpack easily? |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 4:51pm
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I would definitely put steel fiber plates in $18.56 each, check your damper for cracks or wear (look closely) if your boat has over 500 hours on it replace it. check the pump cavity for deep scratches or lips, if you catch a lip with your fingernail it;s bad ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 8:00pm
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jimbo,heat the outside of the ring gear where the cylinder fits with a propane torch, and keeping it very straight set it onto the forward cylinder, you can also then heat the inner bearing race and rotate the input shaft into it. use common sense when heating,it does'nt require much heat ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: August-31-2006 at 12:28am
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Rather than use a torch I put the bearings in the freezer. Slid right in. Didn't like the idea of transmission fluid and ignited propane. Did the same with the forward clutch cylinder. I was asking about getting the drive gear to seat in the clutches.
I ended up making certain all the clutches were aligned, set the ring gear on top of the drive gear and gave it two good wacks with the mallet. Worked fine. I'm always nervous about using too much force. Anyway, didn't get the oil pump on; ran out of parts cleaner. The pump has a couple of tiny grooves but I think it's fine. I'll replace the pump next time reverse goes out. And use those fiber backed reverse plates. By the way, I put on a new damper plate. Anybody know the torque spec on the bolts? Thanks for the help. J |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: August-31-2006 at 12:51pm
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75-85 ft-lbs (if I remember correctly) with new bolts and blue thread locker. Just do a search on web...should be same as automotive engines. ------------- |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: September-01-2006 at 12:27am
| Do I need to use new bolts for the damper? |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-01-2006 at 7:21am
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That sounds like too way much for that small a fastner. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-01-2006 at 8:56am
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usually on a 3/8 bolt it is 37 to 42 ft lbs ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: September-01-2006 at 12:00pm
Maybe that's for the harmonic balancer? My Haynes book calls the hammonic balancer a "vibration Damper" and recommends torque in that range. But is it common practice to use new bolts for the Damper plate? |
David F wrote:Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-01-2006 at 1:36pm
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I personally a$$umed new bolts were in order..then skidim sent me chevy bolts by mistake so I reused the old ones. No problem this season. So there's one data point.
If you had the work down at the local marina, I am certain of the answer; but thats probably more distressing than comforting. Its not like they are torque-to-yield like some head bolts. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |