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Ramlin Trailer Repair

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46684
Printed Date: March-10-2025 at 6:43am


Topic: Ramlin Trailer Repair
Posted By: Otto Throttle
Subject: Ramlin Trailer Repair
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 3:11pm
I just noticed the front of my right side bunk is loose. Much to my chagrin with a quick look it does not look like a quick fix. Can anyone shed some light on how to reattach the bunk to the trailer? And given that i have to do that how about some insight to bunk carpet replacement! I see this as a project that grows quickly to a replacement!

Any help would be appreciated!

Otto

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Otto



Replies:
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 6:19pm
There should be some bolts of some type holding them in place. New wood can be run through a table saw to provide the proper angle and then take a staple gun and apply the bunk carpet. On my old trailer, I had recesses drilled into the wooded bunks where the bolt heads rested out of the way of the hull of the boat. Basicially, pockets to drill to install the bolts. The best way is to use a board as long and the bunks. Some have made one bunk out of two boards, but the single board looks and works the best. I hope this helps.

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1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens
2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S.
1968 Ski Nautique, Holman Moody


Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 6:39pm
Did the metal bracket on the trailer break?

Sometimes the bunks have through bolts. If that is the case, the bolt should still be in the bunk, and you would need a nut to reattach.    Sometimes they are lagged in. If that it the case, then the lag probably just fell out. You might need a bit thicker lag bolt so it gets some bite.

I agree with Donald on some trailers you can run the bunk through table saw for angle. The wishbone Ramlins are like this.

But, on your trailer (the picture on your profile looks like an eagle trailer) I don't think that is necessary. The bunks are just standard boards, often 2X6 pressure treated. They bend into shape pretty quickly once you put the weight of the boat on them. I usually leave the through bolts a bit loose until they have taken shape, and then lock them down.

BKH



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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 7:00pm
Originally posted by Donald80SN Donald80SN wrote:

I had recesses drilled into the wooded bunks where the bolt heads rested out of the way of the hull of the boat. Basicially, pockets to drill to install the bolts.   

The recesses are formally known as counterbores.

I highly recommend using them so the hex head of a cap screw is below the wood surface. Do not use carriage bolts that have the square under the head to keep the bolt from rotating. In time if you ever want to remove the wood bunks, the carriage bolt will just spin whereas with the hex head you can get a socket on it.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 7:01pm
Mine,not a Ramlin just has lag bolts, not the best but so far so good. My trailer builder is so innovative that the bolts,as long as their smiling,must mean that their tight
You might have to remove some carpet to see what is going on under it. Use stainless or monel staples when you reattach.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 7:06pm
It may be the beginning of the end for your Ram-Lin. I repaired mine in 2010 which bought it another 5 or so years before it rusted in half. RIP. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17857&KW=ram-lin&PN=1&title=plan-b-rust-mitigation-on-ramlin%20" rel="nofollow - Ram-Lin Rust Repair 2010

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2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI
https://forum.fifteenoff.com






Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 7:16pm
No I know my trailer is fine. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. It is the first front anchor point on the right side.

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Otto


Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 7:22pm
The quickest fix would be to cut a slit in the carpet above that bolt, remove it, and replace with a bigger SS bolt. These trailers do have a lifespan, though, and the reason that came off is because it rusted around that hole from the inside out.

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2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI
https://forum.fifteenoff.com






Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 7:30pm
Originally posted by Otto Throttle Otto Throttle wrote:

No I know my trailer is fine.

I don't think you've looked deep enough especially inside the rectangular tube main frames.
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

the reason that came off is because it rusted around that hole from the inside out.


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 7:49pm
The question still remains....how did they attach it at the factory if the square frame is solid, and there is not any access behind or below for a nut and bolt?

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Otto


Posted By: marlo14
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 8:40pm
My experience on Ramlin and Prestige trailers has been this: they staple the carpet on the outside of bunks, then they use self tapping screws to attach bunk to frame, and finish stapling carpet as close to frame as possible on inside. Holes were counterbored to recess the head of fastener, and one or two had caulk to “fill” void flush with board. The three trailers I have had apart, most of the holes were rusted out and would not even hold a larger screw. You need to move a few inches away and put new holes for screws. I also had a trailer where previous owner put studs thru bunk, carpeted, and drilled holes thru top and bottom of frame rail, and put nut on bottom... looks bad but works.
With all this said, inspect trailer very well before making decision, it is a sign trailer is on last leg. The current trailer I have has the thru bolts, so they have already fixed it once, and the frame is weak and rusting bad where they put drain holes/wire fishing holes on underside of box tubing, (especially ones right behind the tube in front for tilting tounge).
Remember on a wishbone trailer there is no “triangulation” with the boat and a roller on the winch stand under the bow eye, the bow of boat tends to bounce causing these trailers to flex more than your “standard”style boat trailer. Don’t really want to see the outcome of a failure! I may try to have a local steel shop bend me some new rails this winter, everything else steel on the trailer is great as it is all open and doesn’t trap moisture. Also heard this is why some trailer manufacturers use channel instead of tubing, tubing looks better though.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 9:04pm
When I got my Phoenix,which is made a similar way I used two of these and with a longer extension did the insides of my frame. If Ziebart was still in the area I would have had them do it. Did not have to drill any holes,I removed running lights to get inside along with the holes that were in the frame during manufacture. It's the only way a box frame will get protected.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 9:12pm
Originally posted by Otto Throttle Otto Throttle wrote:

The question still remains....how did they attach it at the factory if the square frame is solid, and there is not any access behind or below for a nut and bolt?

Did Brandon's (marlo14) explanation explain how the bunks are held on?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 9:18pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

If Ziebart was still in the area I would have had them do it.


https://www.ztechcoatings.com/" rel="nofollow - They are still around but you need to buy the stuff in 55 gal. drums and apply it yourself. When I was with Wisconsin Tool and Stamping, we were going through 10 drums a week on semi trailer frames. You could smell the stuff from 2 blocks away!!

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-24-2018 at 10:01pm
There is one near your old stomping grounds,Franklin Park. Seems like it would have been a good idea for any box frame manufacturer to coat it when built. It isn't like they never see water!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport



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