351 W Distributor
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46801
Printed Date: March-09-2025 at 11:21pm
Topic: 351 W Distributor
Posted By: Peacock
Subject: 351 W Distributor
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 10:01am
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My Nautique, 351 W. Reverse rotation. I bought it years ago not running. Previous owner had a high dollar distributor in it. It was bad. So, I bought a $50 distributor at the local parts store, changed the bottom gear to the gear I removed from the old distributor. Boat ran for 1 year. Then no fire or very little. It's a simple points and condenser firing system. Distributor was under warranty, So I changed it with another, and again swapped the drive gear. Now it ran for 2 years. Failed again. Cleaned points, checked gap, replaced condenser, still not enough spark. It had spark, but so dim you couldn't see it. But trust me, it was there. It bit me. LOL So I changed the coil. Still no different. Hummmm Screw it, grabbed another $50 distributor. BAM, fired right up. Ran for one hour. Ran great too. Then, down again. Back to parts store, bought a $75 distributor. Dropped it in. Never missed a lick. Ran all weekend pulling skiers... What do all you recommend? Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 10:17am
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After gapping the point set, have you been checking the dwell? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 10:32am
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As Pete asked, maybe the points rubbing broke wore quickly & the gap changed. Or they burned from bad condensor or not having proper ballast resistor. If it fails again, use a ohm meter to figure out where it has lost conductivity. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 10:43am
| Going through ignition parts at that rate is unnatural. At some point it might make sense to see if there is a common cause to the failures. Are you installing high quality marine parts? How is the rest of the electrical system- is it supplying the ignition with a constant source of proper voltage or is the wiring/resistor/etc questionable? |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 10:53am
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Certainly there are no marine distributors available at 50 or 75 bucks so I would be wondering about what you are doing with the vacuum advance and whether you are close to a decent ignition curve, not to mention the whole safety issue with using automotive parts . Other than that using a points distributor usually requires the proper ballast resistor... and cheap points are junk ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 11:31am
That seems to be whipping your butt  Here's a diagram courtesy of TRB that works for your boat. Numerous other people have mentioned the ballast resistor Since the previous owner had a "high dollar" unnamed distributor in there, maybe it was an electronic one and he removed or bypassed the resistor and that's why your cheap non marine points distributor is winning.the battle 
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Peacock wrote:Posted By: Peacock
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 1:14pm
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Let me try and answer all the questions. LOL Yes, I gap the points, and use a bastard file to clean them. No, I have NOT checked Dwell. But I will You are correct, it is not a marine distributor. It is an auto. Thats why I have to change the drive gear. Alternator charging correctly and voltage is good. The wiring is all original and looks great. Only electrical issue it ever has is just like most all these older ones. Turn bow lights on and gauges go nuts. Wiring too small for lights. The resistor could very well be the issue. However, when the last distributor that bit the dust, I jumped the resistor and it made zero difference. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 1:19pm
| Define “voltage is good”. Numbers and specific locations where you measured would be helpful. If jumping the resistor made no difference then it sounds like it’s not resisting and may be part of your problem. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 2:24pm
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You're probably familiar with the differences between a marine and an automotive distributor so that's your choice what you want to use Sometime you may find yourself changing your undies after an unexpected big boom sends you airborne though I'd check the resistance of the ballast resistor with nothing hooked to it. It should be about 1.2 to 1.3 ohms A good number is Echlin ICR-23 from NAPA or you can cross reference it to a bunch of other brands. They cost less than 10 bucks. Your points last a lot longer with a ballast resistor in the circuit. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 2:45pm
I too am wondering about the vacuum advance. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Peacock
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 10:08am
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No vacuum is used. We have hurricane on it's way here, I just went to the lake house and pulled the boat out. I ran it wide ass open from my dock to the ramp (few miles). It never missed a lick. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 10:31am
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I guess you don't have any problems at all then Stay safe in the storm and dig this thread back up next time you have the same problem While you're hunkered down for the storm you could always read about marine distributors just for something to do |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 11:10am
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So now I am curious. I'm no gearhead so there is a lot I dont understand, so I am just trying to learn. If he has an auto distributor with a vacuum advance but is not using/not hooking up the vacuum, how is it advancing? I also wonder if that wideass open run from the dock to the ramp fell within that 30 - 60 minute lifespan of his distributors. Again, just curious. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Peacock
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 11:22am
| I pulled all weekend and never missed a lick. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 11:23am
Larry, With no vacuum, there's no advance or retard. I suspect the engine performance isn't the greatest. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 11:33am
And......you ran it for a year on your first replacement ( that was from the first post in this thread.) So keep on pulling |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 11:48am
Larry Pete might be a little retarded when it comes to vacuum advance A distributor with a vacuum advance mechanism also has a mechanical advance mechanism just like the marine distributors. It could be long and dragged out and fill pages of reading but the short version is that vacuum advance adds advance under low load high vacuum conditions like driving downhill, highway cruising etc to maximize efficiency and fuel economy. If you could read your timing from the drivers seat of the car you might see around 50 degrees advance under these light load conditions and then when you punch it the vacuum falls off and the advance added by the vacuum falls off too. Fuel injected stuff can do all this advance magic through the use of all those sensors feeding the ECM and the ECM makes the same adjustments that mechanical and vacuum advance could make together. It wouldn't hurt to have it hooked up on a boat as far as advance goes but the hole in the distributor where the mechanism hooks up leaves a nice path for those explosive gases to find a spark and go Boom. With it disconnected you still have the mechanical advance function and the boat will run good just like with a mechanical advance distributor. Like I said before there's a lot more to vacuum advance but here's a good basic article in the link http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/additional-tech/1601-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-vacuum-advance-and-ignition-timing/" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 11:57am
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I was wondering if a vacuum advance distributor still had weights and springs. Figured it must to work, but wasnt sure. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 11:59am
The distributor likely has both a vacuum and a mechanical advance - there is no reason to think the mechanical advance isn't working. However it may also be too much advance, too little advance, too slow or too fast of an initial advance, and too slow or two fast of a final advance for the application. And in this relatively lightly loaded application none of that may make any difference at all to the guy driving it... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 1:02pm
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If I had to guess it is too slow of an advance curve. Secondly, I can likely say with almost 99% certainty that he was supplying points with 12+ volts from a worn out ballast resistor burning them and or the condenser up quickly. Points really aren't a service item when they are of good quality and supplied with correct ignition voltage. I currently have north of 1100 hours on a set of points and condenser. Lastly, please throw that automotive distributor into the trash and get something that has spark arresting capabilities that is USCG approved. Literally one of the only parts under the hood that makes lots and lots sparks and you have compromised its safety by using an automotive part. You have bought what 3 auto distributors now? Your time + the cost of those ($250-300). Add 100-150 more and you could have a modern DUI (Marine rated) distributor with a fresh set of wires+ lots more safety and reliability. |
Posted By: Peacock
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 1:23pm
The vacuum hole, where the hose would hook does have a stopper over it. LOL I'm old, but not totally out there. Just like the blowers. Turn them on BEFORE you start the engine. And not just before you start. Give them a few minutes. Recommendation is 10 minutes. |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 1:52pm
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That's what he said.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPe1BO-Eowc" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPe1BO-Eowc ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 2:01pm
I would question exactly where you are. . ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 2:35pm
Wrong hole Peacock That's what she saidLook where the shaft from the advance mech goes thru the distributor body and you'll see the right hole. An unsealed opening between the inside of the distributor and the outside where the mechanism screws on to the body. Like was mentioned before .........do it your way The holes are not too far apart, you can easily get the wrong one |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 3:01pm
Is this in your future? How's your insurance? Is there a fire extinguisher on board? Maybe two would be better!   ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 3:03pm
Ken, Thanks for bringing the retard up to speed! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Peacock
Date Posted: September-11-2018 at 3:22pm
Wow... Tough room.. 
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Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: October-27-2018 at 3:52pm
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Hi, I am having a similar problem with my 1989 2001 Ski. In July I used the boat a bunch and then as I was heading back home it started running badly. Wouldn't accelerate but would do ok at lower speed. I thought fuel was the issue but after remembering the coil issues I tried a new coil. Boat ran great, problem solved or so I thought. Then in October at the Badin get together skied a bunch all was good until my last day when after skiing, on my way home same issue started. I do not see a BR anywhere on the engine, the coil says use with a BR but since I have owned the boat there isn't a BR anywhere that I can see. My points don't looked burnt and the boat has been running fine until this year. I am going to do a tune up next time I get down to the boat and install a BR to see if it solves the issue. Is there a different type of resistor that might have been used in the 1989? I thought as I was searching for parts that I saw a wire that was listed as a BR but now can't find it. ------------- 2000 Ski Nautique 1989 Correct Craft 2001 In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think" |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-27-2018 at 7:55pm
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BR should be above the bell housing, next to the 50A breaker. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-27-2018 at 8:26pm
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If this is a PCM 351, the diagram from TRB earlier in this thread shows the ballast resistor and the wires that are hooked to it. You could play "follow the purple wire" You can work backwards from the coil (+) terminal and forward from the 8 plug connector and see where they meet. There will either be a ballast resistor or some way that somebody hooked the wires together without one. Like Chris said on location, above the bellhousing and there was originally a plastic cover over the resistor and the solenoid with a hole in it for the red breaker button so stick out of. If you need a resistor, an Echlin ICR23 from NAPA works well. It's a 1.3 ohm resistor and cost is less than 10 bucks |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-27-2018 at 9:00pm
Here's a picture of the location with the cover removed courtesy of somebody on CCF
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Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: October-28-2018 at 10:08am
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Thanks Chris and Ken, I will bring a new resistor next time I get to go down to the boat and hope that fixes my problem Art ------------- 2000 Ski Nautique 1989 Correct Craft 2001 In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-28-2018 at 11:00am
Art, Ceramic resistors don't gain or loose resistance. They are ether good at there design resistance or "open" meaning there's no continuity so no current flows through them. There's a element inside producing the resistance so when it "burns out", it's like a light bulb that no longer works. Taking a VOM with you so you can confirm resistance and or volts in and out. 
You can't tell the condition of the point contact faces by looking. Again, put the VOM to work to check them. Disconnect the - wire off the coil and with the points closed, Ohm between it and ground (the block). You should get a near zero Ohm reading. . ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-28-2018 at 12:01pm
First Pete, he has to see if he has a ballast resistor
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Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: November-27-2018 at 6:57pm
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Ok so I finally got back the boat. There is indeed a resistor right where you guys said it would be so that answers that question. I did a full tune up, Points, Plugs, Condenser, Cap and Rotor. I took the boat out it ran great. I then changed to the ignition wires, started the boat and seem to run fine. Got ready to go ski I idled out my friend jumped in the water said hit it and the boat died, same problem as described earlier in the post. I checked one of the plugs it looked fine, I rechecked the points they look fine, I checked the coil and it is delivering 7.5 volts to the points. Then checked the fuel line by blowing air in with a bicycle pump, there didn't seem to be a problem as I heard air blowing in the tank. I checked the vent tube, no problem there. I could get the boat up to speed if nursed it but even then if I tried to go full throttle it would bog down and die. It will go right up to 4000+ rpm with no load. Help! ------------- 2000 Ski Nautique 1989 Correct Craft 2001 In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-27-2018 at 7:28pm
| Anti siphon and carb inlet screen need to be checked. |
Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: November-27-2018 at 9:42pm
Thanks Tim. I didn't realize it but I took off the elbow and now i guess the anti siphon valve, unfortunately since I didn't know it was the anti siphon valve I didn't check it  . However the elbow actually attached to the pick up tube, is that right? I will do some more checking tomorrow.------------- 2000 Ski Nautique 1989 Correct Craft 2001 In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think" |
Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: November-27-2018 at 9:43pm
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that should have read, the elbow is not actually attached to the pick up tube ------------- 2000 Ski Nautique 1989 Correct Craft 2001 In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think" |
Posted By: roadtrip
Date Posted: November-27-2018 at 10:45pm
| It is very easy and a common problem to get the spark plug wires re-arranged when replacing a set. Check to ensure your cables are routed to the correct spark plugs. And don't be fooled by the firing order cast on the intake manifold. Look on the aluminum tag near your ballast resistor. |
Posted By: roadtrip
Date Posted: November-28-2018 at 10:27pm
| "Confused" emoticon has me confused. Did I do that? |
Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: November-30-2018 at 1:26pm
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That Emoticon is embarassed because I didn’t know that I had the anti siphon valve in my hand and didn’t know it. Anyway fireing order was correct. I found some debris in the anti siphon valve, checked the intake screen at the carb which was clean rechecked the point gap all was good. Noticed excess gas in the carb coming from the primaries. Cleaned and checked the float level put it back together and voila success! Boats ran great and we got a couple of runs in. Thanks for all the help. ------------- 2000 Ski Nautique 1989 Correct Craft 2001 In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think" |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-30-2018 at 9:38pm
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Well at least you learned a little more about your boats ignition and fuel system along the way And once again that old saying about"when you think it's an ignition problem check out the fuel system" and vice versa seems to have worked. |