Engine pulleys
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47238
Printed Date: June-26-2024 at 12:31am
Topic: Engine pulleys
Posted By: Goldcup101
Subject: Engine pulleys
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 8:48pm
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Mainly to satisfy my 'playing with boats' urges, I want to dress up the engine with chrome pulleys and alternator bracket etc. It's a bit OCD but spring is nearly here and I need to mess with stuff! Does anyone have the specs or know where to source these parts? Engine is the 351W 285hp H.O. I'll probably replace the chrome valve covers too as they're rusting. Also, has anyone got the hose diameter for the fuel pump vent tube? Mine is so old it is no longer transparent which kind of defeats the object of that tube! Thanks all! Calum |
Replies:
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 9:51pm
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You could always take 'em off and send 'em out to the chrome shop... JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 10:28pm
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Jegs or Summit ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 10:51pm
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Or paint them silver metallic/clear coat. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 10:52pm
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Not many chrome shops were I live sadly! I looked at Summit but there are about 50 different possibilities and I have no idea which ones I would need, |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: March-05-2019 at 11:55pm
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Or you could go billet. Some nice kits or pieces & parts https://www.cvfracing.com/ford/ford-289-302-351w-small-block/" rel="nofollow - HERE . ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: March-06-2019 at 10:37am
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Ebay has a bunch of options, from relatively inexpensive chrome to the pricier aluminum billet. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=sbf+chrome+2+groove+pulley&_sacat=0" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=sbf+chrome+2+groove+pulley&_sacat=0 ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: March-06-2019 at 7:19pm
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They look pretty good options thanks. Any idea if I need any particular sizes? I'm aware that I need a 4 hole crank pulley but I've no idea about any sizes etc. Those billet ones look lovely but I'm not sure I can bear paying that sort of money for what is basically just some bling! |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 9:26pm
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Well, the billet stuff does look pretty good right enough. Thinking of going for this: https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-small-block-pulley-kit-ps-4-bolt-crank-289-wp/" rel="nofollow - Billet Pulley Kit Can't find a decent alternator bracket as all auto stuff has the alternator mounted on the opposite side of the engine. Wondered if one of these would work? https://www.cvfracing.com/10-inch-adjusting-rod/" rel="nofollow - https://www.cvfracing.com/10-inch-adjusting-rod/ If this would work, could some kind soul tell me the length of the standard bracket so I can work out which rod I'd need. Still pretty wintry in the French Alps and the boat is wrapped up and covered with snow! Thanks, Calum |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 12:02am
I recently had all of my pulleys powder coated a "chrome" color. Basically a bright silver with clear over top. I had the valve covers done as well. Its not real chrome, but all of my parts will match.
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 1:30pm
| Looks nice And durable |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: March-12-2019 at 9:06am
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Yup, that looks great. I went for the billet stuff from cvf in the end, but have waited for the adjusting rod for the alternator until I figure out what size I'll need. Will let you know progress early spring when boat comes out of hibernation! |
Posted By: man0seven
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 8:53pm
Would you share the part numbers? I think I would like to do this too. B ------------- 2005 Ski Nautique |
Goldcup101 wrote:Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 10:13pm
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Sure,CVF recommended SBFS2KIT and WP-CAP. I'll caveat this by saying that I haven't installed them yet as the boat is still hibernating but they certainly look correct to me. In my case that includes a 4 bolt crank pulley. |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: May-04-2019 at 2:55pm
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Well, nothing is as simple as it looks! Just had a look an installing these pulleys. All seems well except the crank pulley supplied has an OD of 5.4" but the original PCM one is 6 1/4". Can't find a billet version with that diameter and although the smaller circumference of the crank pulley may be ok on the alternator side (I think the alternator slide would take up the slack), I'm pretty sure that even if there was enough adjustment on the raw water pump side, the raw water pulley would hit the metal trim lining the engine compartment on the side of the bilge/hull. It's pretty close as it is. Next idea was to get shorter belts but I'm struggling to find examples of shorter belts in the same width/groove depth spec as the original PCM ones. I'd also need to do a complicated calc to figure out how much shorter the belt(s) would need to be. Anyone have any ideas? And is there any issue per se by using a smaller crank pulley? Thanks in advance! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-04-2019 at 3:44pm
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Calum, Stretch a tape measure around the sheaves of the paths of each belt. That will give you a idea of the length of each belt. take the measurement with the take ups adjusted close to the minimum as the belts sit slightly below or at the outside diameter of the sheaves. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: May-04-2019 at 3:57pm
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That would work Pete but the new ones aren't mounted yet and I don't want to take the old crank pulley off (doesn't look like a 5 minute job!) only to find I can't use it as I can't source the correct spec belts. I may be able to get close though by doing as you suggest and then measuring how much of the crank pulley circumference the belt goes round then measure the difference on the new unfitted one. Original PCM belt spec is: R066008 - Raw Water Pump Belt is 3/8" wide, 45" overall length, 5/16" height of V I don't know how close I'd have to be to these specs but I'm struggling to find much variety with 3/8 width and 5/16 V height. It's all very odd, virtually every crank pulley for the 351w seems to be 5.4" exceot the PCM one at 6 1/4. Why would they change that for a marinised version??? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2019 at 8:02pm
The original early year 351 marine engines up thru 1993 used several parts from the 289/early 302 engine like the 3 bolt harmonic balancer, the 157 tooth flywheel, and the crank pulley which I think is really 6 1/8 inches but what's an 1/8 inch matter. Only a guess but I figure Ford who supplied the parts on the engine to PCM, Indmar, VolvoPenta, OMC etc wanted to keep the same pulley size with a different offset to go along with the thickness difference of the balancers to be able to use the same brackets and equipment on the front of the engine when they went to the 4 bolt balancer and associated pulley in 1994. The automotive 351w's used the 4 bolt balancer from the beginning in 1969 and of course used different pulley diameters just to make life miserable when doing what you're trying to do.  Don't make a science project out of it, do what Pete described to come up with a belt or belts, but I think I'd check pulley alignment before going too far. |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: May-04-2019 at 8:18pm
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"I think I'd check pulley alignment before going too far." Yeah, that concerns me a bit. I can see a situation where I spend hours taking off the old (probably seized) pulleys and then need to put them pack on again! |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-05-2019 at 12:53am
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Been there, done that Calum. When I replaced my engine last year it came with a new automotive (performance) balancer. I was able to use my original pulley, but the balancer was about 2 or 3mm thinner than the original. Lining everything up was just a matter of adding a spacer to the back and all is good. Depending on your situation, this could be just as simple. Of course it could go the other way if the pulley is too deep and add a bit more of a challenge. Most everything has a solution though ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-05-2019 at 9:25am
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Your new crankshaft pulley being 5.4 inches is also gonna affect both the circulating and raw water pump speeds along with the alternator speeds. As an example, the raw water pump speed will decrease by about 12% and the flow will decrease by the same percentage The circ pump and alternator speed changes will depend on the new pulley diameters compared to the original ones |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-05-2019 at 9:50am
I like taking a piece of 1/2" rope and wrapping it around all the pulley's. Cut it to length. Then take the rope with you to the parts store. Same end result, just easier for me.  ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: May-05-2019 at 9:55am
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The other pulleys are identical to the old ones as far as I can tell so alternator speed would reduce as well as the raw water pump. I've no idea if this is a big deal or not. Figuring out the belt sizes seems like a quick job but after looking online, finding a suitable belt may not be quite so easy - I can't find different size belts in the same spec as the PCM ones anywhere. Maybe being close to the same spec will be good enough though. As long as they fit in the groove, that should be it, pretty much. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-05-2019 at 9:24pm
I won't claim to know how much a 12% reduction in flow at all engine speeds will affect your cooling, but the same Sherwood pump was used on 310 HP GT40's and some pretty low HP 302's like a 165 HP 2 barrel and it had no issues supplying either engine. Also on some modified 351's with a fair amount more HP. Using that logic, I'd figure it's worth a try if you just gotta have those shiny pulleys
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Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-05-2019 at 10:56pm
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Ditto what Ken said. I'm running a modified GT40 and she still runs consistently at the same temp as before. Higher rpm's would obviously provide plenty of flow for either. Alternator output @ idle might be the only thing I'd be concerned with. Then again, I've had several electrical draws going at once @ idle with no noticeable voltage drop so my thought is you'd be fine there as well. ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |