Painting engine
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47249
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 8:31pm
Topic: Painting engine
Posted By: jterr
Subject: Painting engine
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 12:10am
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I have most everything off , but when I removed the starter I noticed a little rust on the fly wheel. I was planning on leaving Trans and bell housing on for painting. Question should I take them off or is the little rust normal-this has been sitting for a few years Thanks JT |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 8:14am
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John, Your plan on leaving the bell housing and trans on the engine is good. When the engines were marinized, and painted, that's how it was done so the flywheel never got painted. The only ones that did get painted were on older FWF (flywheel forward) engines were the flywheels were exposed. However, you may what to R&R the damper plate on the flywheel since you have the engine pulled. . ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 8:31am
I think Pete just forgot to say it, but some rust on the flywheel is normal. I'd probably rotate it 360 degrees by hand to make sure it's consistent and there's not a heavy rust line anywhere on the flywheel from having a bunch of water in the bilge for a long time while it was "stored" by the previous owner. |
jterr wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 9:14am
John, I think Ken doesn't know that unpainted steel rusts. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 9:34am
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John, I mentioned the damper plate. Here's the best price at https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/marine-transmissions-and-parts-borg-warner-velvet-drive-zf-hurth-paragon/borg-warner-velvet-drive-parts/drive-damper-flex-plate-marine-triangular-for-volvo-io-ford-and-gm-120-8-1446" rel="nofollow - ebasic power ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 9:42am
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John, When you go for engine paint, do get the engine primer. The primer makes a big difference in how the finish coat comes out. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:50am
I sorta thought that Pete and I sorta think that you don't know what John's flywheel is made of either  Unless you want to tell us all that cast iron and steel are the same thing. They're not a lot different, but they both rust. You could also mention the 20 dollar cheaper version of the damper plate (ALTDA-106) that takes some trimming. You know, it's the one you used. Then you could tell him how you trimmed yours and a bunch of other people have done the same. Here's a link about it in case you forgot http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42615&title=damper-plate" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 9:46pm
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Update: I took the Exhaust off and tranny to replace the damper. See pics- Under left header  The damper and tranny  Bottom of distributor(I hope I can clean and paint, if the above is not catastrophic) 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 9:49pm
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John, Yes, there is a $20 cheaper version of the damper. I linked the already trimmed version after thinking it may be easier for you feeling you may not be equipped for it. Sorry if I assumed wrong. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:20pm
Never assume --- I ordered the pre-trimmed version. But question 2 does it look like I need a head gasket. These have been replaced, has new heads/redone heads. Just worrying about all that rust below head |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:57pm
JT Here are a few thoughts Picture 1....... only the previous owner knows if those rust streaks were there before he replaced the heads and he just didn't clean or paint anything. Picture 2....... on the damper there's that ugly rust line I mentioned earlier meaning the water level was high enough to have your front seal on the transmission underwater for quite a period of time (and maybe the rear main seal on the engine too) Also a number of the damper springs were underwater for quite a while too, but you're already replacing the damper anyways. Picture 3..........That distributor has at least a couple of problems First, it's just plain ugly Second, that big gaping rectangular hole in the body is where a vacuum advance mechanism once lived meaning it's an automotive unit that isn't spark protected. Back to picture 2, the cement blocks look to be in pretty good shape |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 11:05pm
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 12:33am
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Would this distributor work https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-Prestolite-Marine-Distributor-E5JL-12100-CA-Prestolite-7020S-NEW/331680410097?epid=1622285754&hash=item4d39b169f1:g:G1MAAOSwl9BWHH1m |
Posted By: rosconole
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 12:43am
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You might find some one with a bead blast cabinet and see if you can save distributor, but its gonna take some time, its not rusted yet but its on its way. Looks like you have some other parts that need it as well. Ford blue or silver NOT a chevy color please. ------------- 1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra 1998 5.0 Magazine shootout invitee |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 8:42am
That would work with the right gear it's the Prestolite screwdown cap distributor that was used starting in 87 or so. It comes without a cap or rotor, you can find them at SkiDim or you can go on EBAY and punch in these numbers for the screwdown cap and rotor PCM RA108003 cap PCM R103004 rotor or OMC 984401 cap OMC 982880 rotor A little shopping will save you some money You'd need a Reverse Rotation gear since the one in the EBAY listing is for normal rotation. The gear on your present distributor must be a RR gear that the guy pirated from the original Prestolite. The present one looks like an Autolite/Motorcraft distributor that has the same shaft size of .530 inches. Before doing anything I'd pull the distributor and post a picture of the gear |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 9:02am
Well, I suppose the 100% foolproof method would be to replace both of the head gaskets and both the front and rear transmission seals and the rear main seal or rebuild everything. If there was no water in the engine oil or the transmission, the seals didn't leak so depending on how deep you want to go into things and how much you're planning on spending that would be something for you to decide. See the separate post on the distributor. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 12:02pm
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Well I checked the casting # and the engine is a 94 not a 83 as I thought. Good or bad -don't know  Also suggestions on cleaning engine without wetting wrong parts. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 6:00pm
Here is Distributor
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:12pm
Well, the good news is the RR distributor gear should fit the EBAY distributor you linked. It may need to have a new hole drilled to have the gear at the right height on the shaft...... or it may be OK. I'd make sure you can get it off with no damage before getting the other distributor There's info about the height measurement etc. or you could ask here if you decide to go that route. A 94 block will have a 1 piece rear main seal compared to the 2 piece you have now It may or may not have brass freeze/casting/core/expansion plugs depending on where it came from. I suppose you don't really know what you have inside that engine. I don't remember, did this engine run when you got it? |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:29pm
Yes I got it running then decided to pull and do boat I got this- 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:38pm
From here it looks like a clipdown Prestolite with the right gear already on it. That would have been the original 83 distributor. You'd make Pete so proud, an original distributor complete with a set of points Whatever you do, don't throw that RR gear on the ugly distributor away. They're scarce and getting scarcer |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:45pm
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Roger That, I'm thinking of putting the upgraded ignition in it..... |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:49pm
That's OK, Pete has an electronic module in his
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-13-2019 at 1:53pm
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Also suggestions on cleaning engine without wetting wrong parts so I can paint. I've been taking parts off but then I got a hole to cover....
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-13-2019 at 1:59pm
Don’t clean with water. Acetone on a clean rag. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-13-2019 at 2:16pm
John, I suggest a solvent like Toluene. It has great solvency and won't evaporate quickly like Acetone will. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-13-2019 at 6:01pm
| I guess I will use a wire brush on drill first to get in all the crevis'; it is pretty dirty |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-14-2019 at 7:39pm
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Update: Started painting engine. Still got to remove Valve covers,Oil pan and Distributor will be a new one---- 
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-15-2019 at 4:10pm
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Can this be explained, as I have never had it happen before. I took the valve covers and oil pan off to paint and decided to go ahead and remove oil filter...It had no oil in it Anyone else had this or do I have another problem
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-15-2019 at 9:41pm
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JT I say it's no problem. Between taking it out of the boat with a tractor and setting it on wooden blocks and then getting it onto an engine stand, it probably got tipped enough to empty out the filter somewhere along the way Also I don't know what you did to get the pan off, maybe drain the oil and roll it over on the stand to do it the easy way, but that would empty the filter out too if there was anything left in it.at that time It doesn't have to tilt much to the right side to empty the filter. (at least the part you can see) I have one on an engine stand that came out of a running truck and got jostled around some getting it out and onto the stand and that filter was empty when I checked it. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-16-2019 at 12:27am
| ok so no need to remove oil pump? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-16-2019 at 9:18am
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It seems that this question has multiple answers like most of the ones you've asked. One answer might be "not necessary, leave it alone Another might be "the pan is off and the pump is staring you in the face, why not replace it now?" If you were to replace it, don't get a high volume oil pump for a couple of reasons One reason is that it's not needed Another is that it won't fit under a stock PCM 351 oil pan. It'll contact the pan before the pan is seated on the block. making it kinda hard to bolt the pan on That's for a Melling Hi volume pump Also a 1 piece oil pan gasket makes life so much easier than the typical 4 piece. They're pricier but they work great. One example would be FelPro OS30214T for your 351W. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-16-2019 at 11:10am
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This is the one I got hope it will fit -- Fel-Pro Marine Oil Pan Gaskets SFL17998 It said to use some kind of sealant , any suggestions Think I will leave the oil pump as is |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-16-2019 at 8:38pm
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I've always put their Perma Dry or Perma Dry Plus gaskets like this one on ....................dry and not had any leaks. Most all of their literature for these type gaskets say dry with no sealant, maybe yours says something different. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-16-2019 at 8:56pm
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I have used a tacky stuff that just held the gasket in place during assembly. One less thing to trip you up during assembly. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-16-2019 at 9:24pm
It said if the oil pan was flat no sealant, but if it had the raised ends may use in the corners. I will read again as it is up at barn. Thanks |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-16-2019 at 10:05pm
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I have seen somewhere, Summit? that you need to use RTV in the corners where the pan and mains meet. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-17-2019 at 9:37am
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I've seen somewhere where it says to install the Permadry and Permadry plus clean and dry. Here it is in the link First time I used one I was a little skeptical but it fit so good I put it on dry and it doesn't leak Then again, there are usually more than one way to do things and have it work so a little where the curve meets the flat part is up to you. FelPro gives you the sealer with the gasket when they want you to use some typically. Just a small tube https://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/snapups-make-oil-pan-gasket-installation-snap.html" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-17-2019 at 10:02am
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Here are JT's installation instructions for his Permadry gasket. They may be in the barn but they're on the computer too Looks like a little RTV on the block side of the gasket only at the 4 joints https://fme-cat.com/livedocs/1484%284-2%29.pdf" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-17-2019 at 2:22pm
None in my package... |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-17-2019 at 2:31pm
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A little more reading in the link. They can tend to be the masters of confusion with all of their directions/information. that at times contradict each other https://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/clean-dry.html" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-18-2019 at 1:51pm
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Good thing I checked under the oil pan as the screen was pretty gummed up with sludge. Took it off and cleaned. Next question can I run Synthetic oil in this engine?? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-18-2019 at 4:25pm
Yes, but the important thing is the level of ZDDP. There are several threads on oil and what is commonly used both regular and synthetic. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 10:00pm
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Ok ordered the VR1 and Fram filter. Now so I don't start another thread could someone direct me to where to get the water hose replacements. Is hoses from auto store ok????? JT |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 10:08pm
You done did it now JT, you said Fram and Pete's getting all worked up Look in the Ski Dim catalog, you'll find whatever hoses you're looking for |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 10:23pm
Oh Cheezz-- On that form for filters it shows the Fram Xtended Guard XG8A on top of the list 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 10:27pm
And there's nothing at all wrong with using it |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 10:35pm
Thank Goodness 
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2019 at 2:35pm
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Question Question Question--- On the water hoses does it matter if hard or soft (saw them on skidim)? Before I put alternator back on want to make sure if PO got the right one even that it wasn't hooked up  This the type Palladium P7127M-3 rebuilt |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-24-2019 at 3:29pm
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John, I'm wondering if you were looking at "soft" wall hose and then the wire reinforced sometimes referred to as "hard" wall typical of the larger exhaust hose? For cooling hose, the only place I would suggest the wire reinforced is the suction side of the RWP. You don't want it to collapse. Then all the other hoses for the cooling, the soft is fine. . ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-24-2019 at 7:00pm
Of course not It 's a rebuilt Delco that doesn't have any spark arrestor screens or sparkproofing of any kind. You could post a picture from the front and the back just to be sure. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-24-2019 at 7:12pm
John, Yes, see if you can post a couple of pictures. I'm curious about the "M" in the part #. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-24-2019 at 9:11pm
Here's a link to a 7127m3 from your favorite parts emporium Pete It's a Delco 10SI style alternator The DL is for Duralast and the P on JT's is for Palladium which was an Advance Auto Parts brand that doesn't seem to be around any longer. The 3 is the clocking position of the plug when viewed from the rear A bazillion of them were made for plder GM vehicles Definitely no screens on this and JT's pictures will tell if there are screens on his. I figure in this case the "M" stands for maybe it might have screens since the same basic framework can have a screened front that's hard to see behind the fan and there is a cover with a screen assembly that can mount to the back. It doesn't mean marine just because there's an M in the number. That's why a couple of pictures were requested just to be sure https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/333351_0" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2019 at 9:49pm
| Be right back... |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2019 at 10:04pm
Here you go-   
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-24-2019 at 11:04pm
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Well................... congrats JT What you have there is a 100% pure automotive alternator It's a 3 wire Delco that somebody wired to function like a 1 wire Delco. and did a fairly ugly job of it. The big orange output wire would normally be hooked to the threaded stud on the back that has the little jumper. The little jumper makes it function like a 1 wire alternator. A marine version of that Delco would have a screened cover on the back like the picture below. It would also have screens behind the pulley/fan. The picture shows the cover removed The one in the picture is a 1 wire marine alternator. You can find the 1 wire marine alternator at a variety of electrical places on line like DB Electrical for 1 example. Many on EBAY also. They're cheap, easy to hook up and reliable A 3 wire has some advantages, but unless you're gonna be blasting tunes and running all kinds of electrical stuff the 1 wire will be just fine. 
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: March-25-2019 at 11:12am
| Just curious why do marine alts have screen. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2019 at 11:25am
Because they spark inside! Not a good combination if there are gas fumes in the engine compartment/bilge.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-25-2019 at 11:39am
Here is more than you'll ever want to know  http://www.wermac.org/equipment/flame_arrester.html" rel="nofollow - link ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: March-25-2019 at 11:44am
| I see, like a spark arrestor on a dirt bike |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2019 at 11:55am
More like the spark arrestor that's on your marine engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-25-2019 at 2:05pm
Not all marine alternators have screens, that's the way Delco does it as mentioned earlier. Others use sealed covers over the brushes to meet USCG standards. Here's a link to ARCO electric showing some of the more popular alternators and how they accomplish meeting the standard. There's also a brief explanation of the testing. Your 67 Nautique won't have screens unless the alternator was replaced with a Delco over the years. If you're wondering if you have a marine alternator, pictures, numbers and some research should tell you Most marine alternators that meet the standard have a tag or other markings that indicate that it meets SAE J1171 specs. but back in 67 that standard wasn't born yet http://www.arcomarine.com/xhtml/Tech%20Marine%20Alternator%20tips.pdf" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: March-26-2019 at 12:13pm
| Thx keno. Makes sense. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-27-2019 at 7:17pm
| Now that I have my new alternator (silver looking) can I paint it? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-28-2019 at 10:17am
I suppose you can do whatever you want to I don't think I'd be painting any spark arrestor screens though. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-30-2019 at 4:21pm
| Decided not to piaint. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-30-2019 at 4:26pm
A question on ignition. If I change to the electronic module on distributor do I need those resistors mounted on rear of engine?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-30-2019 at 4:39pm
John, It depends on who's EI conversion you use. Follow their directions. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: bfootr
Date Posted: March-30-2019 at 4:55pm
| I just changed my 89 SN to electronic ignition (using Pertronix Ignitor II). Instructions were to bypass the resistor which I did. Works great! |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: March-30-2019 at 5:18pm
I applied a couple of coats of clear engine enamel on all of my 'raw' metal parts, except for the screens as Ken suggested. This keeps them from looking dull and corroded in a couple of years. ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-30-2019 at 10:15pm
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OK I need some advice here.. FYI-The boat I'm working on is a 1983 SN with a PCM 351w. Earlier in a post I found the motor to be a 1994 block. I bought a new Prestolite distributor not paying attention to the year. Now when I started looking for the electronic ignition it is asking for year. Should I just be buying parts as a 83 motor or a 94 motor? Will parts interchange and work? I hope I haven't messed up big time.... |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-31-2019 at 12:40am
Don't sweat it JT. That distributor was used up till 86 or so and will drop right into your engine. Don't know what electronic kit you might be looking at but if it's a Pertronix, the part number for the clipdown cap is 91581 for the Ignitor 2 or 1581 for the plain old Ignitor. The Ignitor 2 is an improved version of the original There's not much else that's still available for that distributor these days. And..............you can ditch the ballast resistor{s} like said earlier by bfootr And..............you won't make Pete proud, but that's OK
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 2:35am
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Update: Engine painted and almost back together, still have to rebuild carb.  Go GATORS!! |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 10:08am
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Nice! I'm getting creative on mine as well ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 10:22am
JT You must be the only person that ever painted his distributor cap to match his oil filter. If that cap came that color, post the part number, I just gotta have one of those
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 10:38am
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Professional-15-oz-High-Performance-Enamel-Gloss-Safety-Orange-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-7555838/204770328?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CB%7CBase%7CD24%7CMulti%7CNA%7CPLA%7CAll_Paint%7c71700000034373191%7c58700003950518085%7c92700032013540496&msclkid=49855c0580dd1211f0cd00a128b25f05&gclid=CPWayOf3s-ECFQiSxQIdVVcIBg&gclsrc=ds" rel="nofollow - We have plenty of this at all the HD stores! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 11:06am
But I'm a terrible painter and would rather have one made that color. Besides, I'd probably have to touch up the cap if it got chipped and ugly looking Or maybe I'd go and paint the plug wires too. I guess I could stick with black caps and filters and wires |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 11:21am
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Thanks Yea the paint came from Wally World and it is Rustoleum. I even got Blue plug wires (didn't know till I opened the box). If the Distributor cap was black would probably have left the same but that Tan just looked awful 
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Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 4:36pm
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Hmmm... this post has taken an interesting turn. I'm still waiting to hear certain comments from Pete and Ken. But for the record John, I like what you've done so far  ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 9:26pm
Just putting on more hoses and seem to have problem-see pic
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 9:39pm
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[QUOTE=KENO] [QUOTE=8122pbrainard] But I'm a terrible painter and would rather have one made that color. /QUOTE] Send it to me I'll paint it. 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 10:09pm
It's a good thing you post pictures JT, since you can notice all kinds of stuff looking at them. In the picture above , my keen finely trained eye can see that your pump isn't ever gonna pump water. Why's that you ask?You have a RH rotation engine and the pump is installed right now for a LH rotation engine since the screw head can't be seen.. If you look at the picture below courtesy of somebody on CCF, you can see the screw head on the pump facing outboard and you can see how the hoses are hooked up and oriented too. That's how your's should be hooked up. Suction on the bottom, discharge on the top and the screw head pointing outboard. Clearance between the pump pulley and the big hose is pretty tight  |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 10:28pm
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Got it, I couldn't tell in my photo (before repaint) the right direction. Thanks |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-03-2019 at 10:31pm
Joe Your pump is kinda plain looking , gray and unpainted bronze or is it clear coated cast iron and bronze, you should really do something about that. We'll let Pete pick the color scheme for ya 
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-11-2019 at 12:24pm
Another Question. Should I keep this MSD coil or go back to the original?
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-11-2019 at 1:32pm
Its a coil not a distributor and if it ain't broke I wouldnt fix it ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-11-2019 at 2:28pm
Thanks I corrected my mind..... this boat and engine is about to blow it
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-14-2019 at 3:01am
| Forgot about the broken resistor, will engine run/start without it? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-14-2019 at 8:43am
John, Is it broken? It looks like the engine was hooked up to one ballast resistor so, it may be good however the Ohm meter will tell you for sure. Keep in mind as stated previously, you need to follow the wiring directions of the EI conversion you plan on using. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-14-2019 at 8:53am
For now just wanted to crank engine to check out rebuilt carb. I'll get my neighbor over he understands the ohm thing. Thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-14-2019 at 10:41am
John, An alternate to resistance is to check voltage in and out of the ballast resistor. If you get your neighbor over, have him give you some pointers on using the VOM. Voltage and resistance testing is a great method of troubleshooting problems. If you don't have a VOM, I suggest getting one. A basic one is around $20 plus you can use it on the car and even the house. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-14-2019 at 1:04pm
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Now I'm really cornfused. I have the MSD coil and directions say to add a 0.8 ohm resister. I read up on the electronic ignition conversion kit and it says to use a 1.4 ohm ballast resister. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-14-2019 at 6:55pm
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The ignition tech said the MSD wouldn't work with there conversion so I guess I need to just go get a standard coil. Thanks |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-15-2019 at 3:22pm
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Hey All, Need a pic of how the coil is mounted on engine 83 PCM. Actually the mount also. I checked my 79 but it is on the opposite side, manifolds don't look the same. Thanks |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-18-2019 at 12:17am
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Never mind the pic I made a mount. Next question--- Where can I get the Alt.& RWP belt replacements? Shipping is twice as much as the belts, surely they can be bought at a parts place.... 
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-18-2019 at 12:55am
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These are the Dayco numbers from my 80's vintage PCM 15400 (11A1015) and 15455 (11A1155). Don't know which one is which but maybe you can cross reference them to any belt at a parts store. If you can wait til sometime tomorrow I can uncover it and maybe see which belt goes to what and the alternator pulley diameter to see if your new one is the same size. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-18-2019 at 1:46pm
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Got it and got them. Thanks |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-18-2019 at 7:22pm
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Here we go again with the dumb questions... I ordered a set of Sierra Marine plug wires and didn't think about the distributor end. Anyhow I have to return and the customer service said all they have is non marine. Is there a difference in marine and standard plug wires? |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-19-2019 at 4:23pm
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I am not aware of any Marine special plug wires. I always buy high quality wires. Napa sells Powerpath, used to be made by Belden Wire. Very good wires. Standard ignition purchased Belden so a premium Standard Ignition set would be high quality also. These would offer long life, great spark transfer and limit any sparks emitting from the wires to a ground which could be very bad in a boat situation with a covered engine. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-19-2019 at 5:06pm
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The only marine thing I can think of is that with the marine exhausts in place the normal method of running the wires from the distributor over the valve covers to the plugs are blocked. PCM chose to use longer wires and running them down in front of the valve covers then up to the plugs. So a set for a car or truck might not be long enough. You could then make your own or just buy a set ready to plug and play. https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK120017" rel="nofollow - link ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |