Ignition button powers up dash
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48151
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 12:34pm
Topic: Ignition button powers up dash
Posted By: Jay_L
Subject: Ignition button powers up dash
Date Posted: October-18-2019 at 2:23am
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I just got a 1987 Ski Nautique 2001 When I turn the key to the "on" position, nothing has power. But when I press in the " ignition " button and have the key in the " on " position, everything receives power. Even the hour meter advances, even though the motor is not running. Is this correct ? Is the " ignition " button supposed to act as main power supply along with the key ? Even the radio only comes on when the key is in the " on " position and the " ignition " button is switched on. Any insight would be much appreciated ! |
Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-18-2019 at 7:22am
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Sounds right to me. That's the way it was built. Here's the much used TRB diagram that shows the wiring going up to your key/dash. it doesn't show all the dash wiring inside the purple box that says "dash switched feed". TRBenj is the guy who drew it up if you're brand spankin' new to the site   The 20 amp breaker takes away dash power along with ignition power and with the breaker ON and the key ON, the hour meter runs. It's sensing power when the key is in the ON position it's not smart enough to know if the engine is running or not  The 20 amp breaker is labeled and called the "ignition breaker" but it really takes away all the dash power too. You don't have an "accessory" position on the key, so it has to be in the ON position for radio power and power to all the instrumentation |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-18-2019 at 7:39am
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And here in the link below is an 87 dash wiring diagram from the "miscellaneous files" section of the CCF reference section It's not the clearest, easiest thing to read http://correctcraftfan.com/downloads/1987_dash.pdf" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: October-18-2019 at 5:11pm
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You're doing it backwards. I would hit the ignition switch and then turn on the key. Consider that ignition switch sort of like a battery switch in a newer boat. It provides the juice to everything and then you go from there. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Jay_L
Date Posted: October-18-2019 at 6:15pm
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Thanks for all the great info !! I feel better now. I was a bit surprised to see that the key has to be " on " and the " ignition " button needed to be depressed in order to run the even the bilge pump and radio. But if that's the way it was designed, I am ok with it ! My fear was that someone had rewired stuff. That is usually a bad sign. Lol |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-18-2019 at 6:26pm
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I think you'll find that the bilge pump will run with the ignition breaker on and the key OFF. It's from the dash hot feed , before the key switch. See the TRB diagram again right after the 20 amp breaker and before the key switch. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-18-2019 at 11:25pm
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Thinking about it, I think you'll find that the blower, the bilge pump, the lights and the horn will all work with the ignition breaker ON but the key in OFF. Also if you have an accessory switch it gets power too. With the ignition breaker ON and the key ON you then get power to the instruments and the ignition system |
Posted By: Jay_L
Date Posted: October-19-2019 at 1:07am
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I was out there tonight and what you said is correct ! Thanks again for helping put my mind at ease. But I did notice something weird. If I have the " ignition " switched on, the oil PSI is maxed out. The needle shoots to the far right. But then when I turn the key on, it goes back to normal. ( at least, I think this was the sequence that caused the oil pressure to tac out ) When she is running, the PSI looks correct, which is what matters most. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-19-2019 at 8:36am
I'd check that sequence again. And I'd suspect the wiring on the gauge being wrong Could be just me but in boats I've had with that ignition breaker, I've always left it in the ON position since I didn't really see any need to kill dash power when it wasn't running |
Jay_L wrote:Posted By: malones
Date Posted: September-21-2021 at 3:50pm
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i just purchased a 1986 ski Nautique 2001, sometime when I press the ignition button it doesn't register, hence I cant start the boat. It's a hit or miss. Happened the other day when we were in the middle of the lake. Anyhow know where I can purchase a new button? any help would be much appreciated, thanks! ------------- Malones |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-21-2021 at 4:06pm
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Click on the link below and you'd want the 20 amp one for the ignition http://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/circuit-breaker-switch/" rel="nofollow - link
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-21-2021 at 5:14pm
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David, Are you using the breaker/switch as an on/off on a regular basis? They are more breaker than switch and if used as a switch they tend to fail early. There's no need to turn the switch off every time you stop the engine like in the middle of the lake. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-21-2021 at 6:01pm
You're gonna have to explain that "more breaker than switch" Pete How's he gonna turn on the bilge pump, or nav lights or the blower for example? They use the same combination breaker/switch with different amp ratings. No separate switch of any kind But I do agree about the ignition breaker/switch not needing to be used
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: September-21-2021 at 6:14pm
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Those breaker / switches fail over time. I changed them out for new ones and always kept a 20 amp spare in the glove box. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-21-2021 at 7:24pm
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In the link below is an old thread with a solution that has worked some times for some people http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42997&title=dash-switches" rel="nofollow - link And here's a link to what you need on EBAY for a bit less money. Quite a bit less http://www.ebay.com/itm/402945077815?epid=663904468&hash=item5dd165f237:g:6yAAAOSwGzFg1ORZ" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: September-21-2021 at 9:38pm
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Can’t hurt to give the WD-40 “fix” a try… JQ
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: rebel skier
Date Posted: September-28-2021 at 8:35am
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I bought a new one to put in but hitting it with WD40 4 year ago and using the boat regularly has kept the new one a spare part. ------------- Hotty Toddy lets go skiing! |