hard to start after warm
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4832
Printed Date: November-27-2024 at 1:38pm
Topic: hard to start after warm
Posted By: heidntique
Subject: hard to start after warm
Date Posted: September-22-2006 at 3:43pm
| i have a '84 nautique with about 775 hrs. it runs strong but this summer have had times where it won't start after running. basically, it won't start after being warm. after it cools for about 15-20 mins., it finally starts. replaced the points, condensor, carb rebuilt, coil replaced. any suggestions? thanks. |
Replies:
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: September-22-2006 at 6:42pm
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ditch the points and condensor and upgrade to a new dist or a conversions kit. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Cape Cod CC
Date Posted: September-22-2006 at 9:47pm
|
Let me ask you a question, does this happen even if you try to start it right after you shut it off or does the engine need to sit for a few minutes before you have this problem?
The reason I ask is because I had a very similar problem with my 80 SN and it turned out to be a carb issue where a bad seal was letting gas drip into the manifold for a few minutes after the engine was shut off as it bled off pressure in the fuel line. So in effect the engine was getting flooded. If I started it right away I had no problem but if I let it set for 5 minutes or more it would not start. Then if I let it set for 25 minutes it would start again. Once I figured out what was going on I could start it if I treated it like it was flooded, wide open throttle until it started. I know you had your carb rebuilt but this could still be a problem if it was not done correctly. Just one of the many possible causes… 
Vince ------------- Cape Cod http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1175&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1980&yrend=1980 - 1980 SN |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: September-23-2006 at 2:01am
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I'd ditch the points too. But I don't think that's the immediate problem...
My first thought was coil but since you had it replaced recently, I agree with Cape Cod. I had the same problem a couple of years ago. I noticed an oily residue on the the intake; I tightened the carb/spacer/intake bolts down half a turn and the problem went away. However, don't go torqueing bolts down ad hoc. With the engine idling, spray a little carb clean around the intake and carb mounts. If the idle changes, then you have a leak. Some more brave souls than mine have took a draw on a cigar and blown the smoke over the manifold, watching for suction. The latter is more fun, I'm sure, especially in the case of a backfire. |
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: September-23-2006 at 2:31am
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I've seen a bad ballast resistor cause this ame problem. ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: September-23-2006 at 9:08am
|
Replacing the points with a electronic conversion is the very first thing to do.
In my endevor to keep my CC as original as possible I struggled with whether or not to get rid of the points. I decided on a compromise - I pulled out my points and saved them in a zip lock bag under my seat. I have since lost that bag and I hope I never see it again. So, what's the point? Throw away the points! There is just no other point. Do you get the point?  ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-23-2006 at 10:52am
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check all of what these guys said and sneak in a compression test also to be on the safe side its not that many hours but you never know. definitly get rid of the points. it seems that everytime an engine runs bad it always ends up being in the points. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: September-24-2006 at 8:05pm
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with the conversion kits so cheap and the installation so easy,why would anyone not replace or should i just agree with jim ditch the points,that way you can look someplace else for a problem....but look at what you would lose,hard start,poor idle and the constant adj. of dwell,and lubing the points cam(the little red pill)no brainer...... boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: September-27-2006 at 11:02am
| Had the same problem with my carb.Gas was dripping down the intake after I shut it off,It was flooding my 302 out.When you shut it off take the flame arestor off and see if thats what is happening.I had to adjust the floats.After I did that my boat starts all the time.Good luck. |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: September-27-2006 at 3:46pm
|
I had a simular problem with my 302 in my 79 Ski Tique. The boat would always be hard to start after warming up had to give it full throtle and it would start because it ws flooded. I thought it was adjusted too rich because I live at higher elevation. I took the boat to the local auto mechanic and he said he adjusted and tightened somethings up. After that the problem went away.
Before that the boat started fine cold and hard when warm. Opsite now becaus I can't get the electronic choke to work for sh*t. ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: September-29-2006 at 10:42am
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I have a similar problem..When the engine is warm and I go to restart it, I have to give a very small amount of throttle.
Just a quick little (1/16) of a pump on the throlle lever and it fires right up. It would be nice to fix that..any thoughts guys? thanks ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-30-2006 at 5:01pm
|
Barracuda
Set the air screws for best idle IN GEAR and that will go away. Its actually too lean to start, you are exposing more of the slots when you nudge the throttle. Off-idle performance will also improve, no stutter when you hammer it If either air screw is not responsive, the idle circuit is clogged; most often the fuel orifice in the metering block, sometimes just the air bleed from belt shmutz. If your timing is retarded, it overrules everythign above. 10 degrees initial is best. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: October-02-2006 at 8:05am
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Gotta- thanks for the tips. I'll check it all out before pulling it out for the season (end of this week).I don't have any performance problems at all- no stutter anytime, doesn't miss a beat. The above is really just an annoyance.
Thanks again -Brad ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: heidntique
Date Posted: October-21-2006 at 5:43pm
| i replaced the resistor and only ran it once after that, but it seemed to fix the problem. thanks for the advice from everybody. i get the feeling i should upgrade to hei ignition...when Dan H. sees this, here's your reminder that you need to get back to work! -Rick |
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: October-21-2006 at 8:01pm
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Glad it did OK! Yes...do ditch the points! You will be eliminating one element that is often a source of problem! For about $120.00 and a half hour of time...you will have one less worry! I like making things better! ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |