I guess you'll probably have to explain to him how to post pictures here with his Galaxy tablet................or follow his link to PN like you did

John,

This one?

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/general-nautique-discussion/nautique-cc-boat-restorations/601131-new-member-first-ski-nautique" rel="nofollow - New member first ski nautique - PlanetNautique Forums

Taylor can't help with windshield, & i can't find reliable source for glass or rubber.

And for a laugh, i'm having trouble logging in again, had to request a password and still have enter the super secret security image.

Started work on the trailer, new axel ordered.

minor cosmetic left on the boat which i suck at but it's that much closer to rigging which i don't suck at

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49664&KW=stan&title=correct-craft-emblem-help" rel="nofollow - link

If you get in touch you could find out his new phone number and post it if he's Ok with that 

I'm impressed. Nice work. More like yourself should consider the LVL for stringers. 

That must be some of that "homemade LVL" he used for stringers, AKA marine plywood glassed together ( and very well done)

Thank you for the kind words. 

Again, very nice work. I like the way you glassed the holes through the new stringers. Many haven't which allows the path for water. 

Which brings me to the transmission,  the cable stay is on the engine/bell above the trans, every bw ive seen the lever goes forward into forward gear, and back for reverse.

The oiginal throttle is broke at the throttle spring loaded slide, so i ordered a replacement.

The old control pushed to shift and pulled to throttle, i checked it 4 times and noted it in the new controls installation manual, and i had the old control on the bench when i attached the cables to the new part,

so i set the new one up to do the same.

When i see the control push the cable and the location of the cable stay, push would move the lever on the transmission to the rear. 

I know the engine is rh rotation, is the transmission backwards too ?

The steering shaft is a little sloppy, there probably is not a direct replacement is there?

The lever on the transmission  always goes forward to shift the transmission into forward no matter what rotation the transmission is set for.

What did you buy for a new controller?

Some pictures of it's backside would probably help.

I don't know of a helm control that can't be reversed to ether push or pull so take another look at the instructions that came with yours.

As an example, here's the MV-2 manual out of out reference setion:

https://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/Morse_MV-2_Owner_Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - Morse_MV-2_Owner_Manual.pdf (correctcraftfan.com)

NOTE: The neutral safety switch in the helm is not used in our boats. The NSS is on the trans. 

I'll have to look at the engine i don't remember the cable coming in from behind the trans, and looking at the picture on the ignition thread there are 2 cable stays, carb and trans.

Switching  push/pull is a matter of which side of the lever the cable is connected.

The controls in my other boat can push or pull shift and throttle. It's single lever dual function also.

I have a set of single function controls that can push or pull, it lets you rig from either direction.

The old control pics are  forward @ idle, full throttle & nuetral (still can't load pics in order i attach them)

 it pushes to shift so i must be wrong about the cable stay for the transmission.

I'm a dummy it just dawned on me the cable probably swings a loop and pushes the lever.

Gonna go outside & open the box now.

I'll post some pictures of the same Morse control as your original, set up for "Pull to go forward" and "Pull to open the throttle" with both cables entering at the front of the controller.

For now let's just say they don't look like yours 

Here are 3 pictures all cleverly rotated 90 degrees from the way they were by the picture gods. It's an MV1 like what you have.

The arrow on the index card is only to point to the front of the boat

It's setup for pull to go forward and pull to open the throttle with both cables going out the front. The shift cable curls up over the front of the engine, past the carburetor to the mount on the bell housing.

The throttle cable goes under the engine, curls up under the transmission and hooks to the throttle cable mount.

That was the typical setup for a mid to late 70's PCM 351

First picture is with the shifter in neutral shifter arm has an S marked on it

Like you already know and mentioned, the controller can be set up a lot of different ways though.

I verified right hand rotation via the firing order, it has a right hand propellor.

It pulls to throttle  and pushes to shift. 

Switching the shift cable to pull is very easy on the new  controls.

Just stumped why it's like that, i threw it in a bucket last year.

Thanks keno, i appreciate you going thru the effort to help me out

For fun and laughs there is a video

https://youtu.be/_qBPX3UwH8k

I did notice though in your pictures and video of the old controller, that the throttle lever on the back is on 90 degrees out of position and needs to be unbolted and rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise for the  throttle and shifter to operate correctly together.

I forgot to ask about a good spark plug and gap.

A ways off yet  but idle rpm timing and wot rpm info is greatly appreciated.

Also the rh rotation distributor isn't available yet so we'll hope the existing one still works.

Oops had to edit where the order was made

Dan,

It's the gear on the distributor shaft that makes it a RH/reverse rotation. So, You can purchase a new distributor and install your old gear on the new.

Autolite 24 or a cross reference to your favorite brand of plug.

With the Prestolite module, you'll see PCM literature with .035 and .045  Go figure  Either will work

The screwdown cap distributor says 10 degees BTDC for initial timing at idle speed.

WOT rpm 4000 to 4400. If you have the original 13X13 prop, you should have no problem getting to 4400 if the engine is healthy.

What brand of distributor are you talking about at at Skiboatpartsonline?  a Pertronix I'd figure since it's what they sell there.

If it's a Pertronix, you can't swap your old gear on to the Pertronix shaft like Pete seems to think you can, ....well you could but it would be a really, really sloppy fit 

It would be nice to know the brand and shaft size before making a statement like that

In theory Pete is correct.  BUT I have installed numerous gears and the cross drilled hole for the pin never seems to be in the correct location.  Plus the diameter of the shaft has to be correct to that gear.  There is a dimension from the mounting face of the dizzy to the bottom of the gear that also has to be correctly located.  Seems as though they just install the gear to proper height and then pin it in a drill press,  never is on center line.  To add to the problem is the fact that some gears are not pre drilled for the pin anyway.  Just my experience.  Good luck,  Duane

I wouldn't even attempt a gear swap, i figured it was pressed on and off, i don't have those kinds of tools,

Leave it alone and cross my fingers. Which is what i should've done w/ the carb, its apart and in the chem dip.

Carolina Blue, as it should be! GO HEELS! Classy 

I wouldn't be holding your breath waiting for Pertronix to make a version of that with the RR gear on it.

It's been in production a long time and it hasn't happened so they probably have very little reason to do it now.

Maybe Ron at skiboatpartsonline knows something like where to get a .500 inch RR gear for it......or maybe not  

The trailer's looking great. I too have used the ZRC many times and have found it great for rust prevntion.

OK, what's the round plate for? Spare tire mount?

The original helm was updated at some point with the adapter for the new cable.

It feels good left and right, but the bushings are worn and the shaft/wheel have a lot of play.

Parts for the original helm for repair are no longer available, they still make it new tho, 400 bucks.

Other option was 89 bucks but the cutout ended up being smaller and the bolt pattern is different.

Ski boat parts online mentioned a plate, i just attempted to fancy it up.

Next boat, no hole shall be left unpatched.

Trailer ready for bunks and there is a tongue extension ready to get welded.

Not looking forward to bunks, didn't understand the old ones, ripped on a 45 the whole length, bolts staples carpet could have been from factory,    Oh !   now i understand !

What's the air conditioning vent on the dog house for?  

Hot air out i hope, should circulate better ?

Smithfamily, thank you for the nice words. 

The plugs are in order as viewed from the flywheel.

The valve cover bolts were just passed finger tight and that was where the worst of the oil seepage was

Before the plugs went back in i put 1/2 teaspoon of 10w40 down the holes and rotated the engine past the timing mark 8 times by hand.

Heres the plugs and top end, cylinders all looked shiny, engine has been sitting seven years. 

What do you guys think ? Looks ok right ?

Dan,

Unlike land based engines that rely on radiators to transfer excess heat to the air, our marine engines have unlimited supply of water to get rid of the heat. If the RWP (raw water pump) is doing it's job, there's not a problem with cooling. 

One area of concern is bilge venting to exhaust any potential fuel vapor. The typical method is to have forward facing vents on the foward deck or sometimes forward facing vents on the gunnels. Then aft facing vents on the aft deck. The combination has worked for many years. 

At this point there is 3 issues, 1. it's out of sqaure from the heat when it got welded i think. 2. Since its out of sqaure i think it will hinder installation. 3. if it breaks @ the pylon the engine would have to come to repair it.

When i located the stringers ther was wood wedged in at the back to hold spacing eqaul to the front.

When i located the engine mount it had to be clamped in place, to be safe 1 hole was drilled in the stringer for location later on.

Today i put the mount and pylon in to locate the foot and see how it lined up with the floor and dog box.

It all looked good but still don't like putting all that force on the mount, so i cut it.

Now the angle still gets bolted to the stringers and the engine still bolts to the angle but now the pylon mount is seperate.

The foot can get bedded and glassed, the pylon mount can get installed without the engine being in the way.

Pylon mount gets turned 180 and is notched to fit, angle gets cut 8 1/4 inches shorter allowing pylon mount to slide back and come out if need be. If the rain holds off tomorrow i can verify angle length and get a pic with the parts installed.

The trailer bunks are 30 inches high and had to go up to 32 inches to get her back on it and forgot how high the trailer was.

I think whoever approved the design was high, i get it ya know, it was the the 70's maybe they were roller boogying under the trailer on the shop floor during lunch getting all cocained up and ready for the disco later on.

How did you not get water up to the roof window on the olds vista cruiser launching these things way back when ?

Back on the engine tomorrow, all gaskets are here.

Yeah that window

Dan,

I noticed it looks like new springs on the trailer? I'm not so sure but wondering if the springs were originally undermounted on the axle? With them being top mounted, that sure would add to the trailer height. 

Tim, 

What's your take on the spring set up?

Springs over the axle and sitting pretty high. The bunk height from the ground sounds about right too.

Once the fenders are on, it will look  right

One of them low boy trailers it's not 

The tongue is extended 3 1/2 feet, that should help load and launch, it backs up real good now.

Pylon mount installed and all bolts tightened up to 15 pounds pylon ended up in a pretty good spot so the foot is located and ready to get bedded down and glassed in place.

 lots of math and drawings @ 12 degrees showed moving the engine 1 1/2 inches forward gives just a touch more clearance under the engine and thus more room to adjust the alignment.

(Engine should actually go up to meet shaft c/w moving forward)

Everything rotated smooth, no binding and nothing sprung or felt different after the couplers were unbolted.

The stern tube is out and needs to be bedded once alignment is achieved, the old cutlas will keep it centered on the shaft. 

The engine was slid over to port but the shaft was centered in the tube, could still be bad part somewhere

The engine will get centered in the boat and the strut will be adjusted to meet up with that center instead of the other way round, at that point final alignment will come from the mounts, i'm not going to just slam on the strut and hope the engine fits under the dog box, lines up the pylon and leaves the prop wih correct spacing from strut.

I can check the prop, the strut doesn't show signs of damage or repair, like mentioned everything felt smooth, but my gut is telling me be ready for a new shaft.

Long story short about the rear mounts, bushing locates center, spacer locates elevation (shim under spacer sqaures it up).

They operate smoothly now with no up/down movement of adjustable bolt.

10 laced layers on pylon 1200 sqaure inches of material.

Don't see any wear on the cam, nothing bad in the pan, i think o.k. for 42 years old and sitting for 7 years now.

5-6 teeth in a row on the flywheel ring are worn, hopefully one of the shops around here can install a new one and for good measure while it's apart, i'll order a new dampener as well. 

The ring gear is fairly straightforward to do it yourself with no special tools.

Seeing everything else you've done, the ring gear wouldn't give you any challenges.

A few early caveman tools are all you need,  hammer, punch, heat square piece of tree 

Dan,

I sure don't know where you have shopped for a ring gear but I'm finding them for $10 to $20 new. 

TRBenj wrote: 157 tooth ring gear, it’s $15 and available locally (advance, napa etc).

What's the number of teath on the flywheel you are getting? 

KENO wrote: You tell the guy at the parts store that you need a flywheel and/or ring gear to fit a 1967 Mustang with a 289 and a 4 speed transmission. The ring gear is 157 teeth. Don't tell them you need a flywheel for an automotive 351w because those all had 164 teeth and were a bigger diameter .

You are this close, consider take the #2 and #4 bearings caps off for inspection and replace the set if they show copper. if so, then just do the rods too.  You can leave the heads on. If the mains look good, stop, just tap them back in place and retorque and resume 

 Can't forget the Pioneer FRG-157N ring gear that's pretty easy to find.

Pete

How about a link to one of those 10 dollar ring gears?

new engine oil drain line and trans cooler lines, waiting on dampener, workin around rain, engine close to paint and oil pan osho'd 

Filled the trans, spun it up to prime it and she gets both gears, cant stop coupling by hand, hope that means it's good.

It took 60 ounces.

https://youtu.be/m2_jiIa3px0

I just went out and counted the teeth, it's 157 and the old dampener lines up so we'll see how the new one fits.

New ring gear wasn't expensive, it was the labor that made getting a new flywheel the better deal by 68 bucks.

I don't have the room for an engine stand, so really can't pull mains and rod caps, good advice tho.

If there is going to be another boat rebuild, the engine will have to either go to a shop or purchase a very clean low hour ready to drop in like i got for the raceboat.

Oil/fluid/filters/lube/grease, general maintanence is not a problem but what i'm doing now is too much over too many days, there is grease and oil all over. Everything has to be cleaned constantly or the greasy oil mess migrates into the house into the shed and onto every surface tool, drawer, bench top etc etc

Can't touch either boat, do any glass work or welding practice, can't touch the truck, the fridge door, nothing !!!

Hooorrraaayyy !!!!! more engine BS !!!

Its metric, dampener holes are threaded 1.25 the bolt holes to crank are bigger and the flywheel isnt what i would call snug on the crank thing like hubcentric. It doesn't rattle around on the crank but i thought it should fit snug.

It'll probably work, i only know enough about engines that there is no such thing as direct replacement w/o other parts and/or mods.

You have a flywheel for a later 302 when they liked to call them 5.0 engines and it takes metric fasteners. 

It's also 50 oz imbalance on that flywheel and you want one with 28 oz imbalance otherwise you'll be able to make milkshakes on top of the engine if you were to install it and the damper plate with some bolts that would fit. Or in other words.........don't even think about trying to use that flywheel.

The changes happened around 1983 or so for reasons known only to Ford

The earlier 157 tooth flywheel that was on your engine was, like mentioned earlier a cross reference to a 67 Mustang with a 289 and a 4 speed which had 28 oz imbalance.

So.........you either need to get your old flywheel back or go back in this thread to the part numbers for the right flywheel and get one of them, then your SAE bolts will fit and you already know you need to trim it and use only 3 bolts and you'll be back in business. .

Just tell the parts guy what you need with the part numbers given earlier because the Ford marine 351 flywheel isn't on any 351 automotive engine. Once again only Ford knows why they did things the way they did

I have read that the reason for the change to 50 oz balance was because it was cheaper to produce. And when you think of how many 5.0 Lincoln,Mercury,Ford, and Ford trucks built with them in compared to the 5.8 it sounds plausible. When they are building millions even 50 cents is something. 

I'll copy the numbers and notes then take it all up there monday,  meantime i'll price check it so i can make a decision, hopefully theres no restocking fee, i told them what it was.

Appreciate it everybody, thank you for the help the part #'s, all the tech and advice.

It's always the engines that screw the job

If you get the old one back, like mentioned earlier you can get a ring gear pretty cheap and do it yourself.

Maybe Pete will let you in on his source for a 10 dollar ring gear........maybe not

He seems to have missed this question below from a little earlier in this same thread 

You can find one for under 20 though at that auto parts place that he just loves to bash. I think it ends in Zone

KENO wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote:   Dan, I sure don't know where you have shopped for a ring gear but I'm finding them for $10 to $20 new.  Pete How about a link to one of those 10 dollar ring gears?

New flywheel returned, "why whats wrong with it, it's 157 tooth"  

I gave them the part #'s for the ring gear and now waiting.

Last week i ordered an oil drain line kit "for 351w old ski boats" it came today and it is the wrong thread, not to mention if you wanted yo use the 90* fitting on the pan it won't work because of the pushlock thing.

Another part from super awesome parts we know our *************** dot com that's wrong.

I either need a clean good running  take out or the whole thing gone for what i have in it.

Got the flywheel back friday, got the dampener cut, then scribed it with the magnetic pointer and ground to finsh.

Loctite and torqued thru the access hole in bell.

Today, dressing the engine i had to stop and make bushings for the alternator and sea pump, there is no wear on their respective brackets or the accy's themselves, they just were not properly located and the belts were way off alignment.

On/off on/off on/off took 6 hours to cut, fit, align the belts, paint the bushings and reassemble.

Hoses had to be ordered, nothing in town that you'd want to pay for.

Next off is the fuel pump, i don't know if there is any internal parts that will fall out or into the pan or if it's just the arm?

Does the rotating assy have to be at a certain degree or tdc to correctly install it? 

Theres no clear info online and from memory the old mark4 454 had a rod that pushed the pump arm, have no idea how ford does it or how pcm may have changed it.

Shooting for install next week.

Concern i have is the torque, my click type inch pounds starts at 20, from memory 14-16 inch pounds was what most pumps i've seen required.

No info online, no instructions with kit.

Think 20 inch pounds is too tight ?

There aren't any parts that will fall out and like you said, there's just the arm on the pump

The eccentric is mounted on the end of the cam and the arm is moved by the eccentric.

Pretty much any engine position works, but you can find the position where the eccentric exerts the least pressure if you're having problems getting the pump into place against the spring pressure on the arm.

Some people use a long stud or longer bolt to get one side started, then put the other bolt in, tighten it some and then take out the temporary bolt, put the original back in and tighten both sides incrementally.

I'm kinda wimpy and I usually don't have a problem overcoming the spring pressure 

It's only hard the first time

It's easier at least for me, than the Chevy pushrod setup

Edit.......#1 at TDC on the compression stroke is maximum pressure on the arm, so putting #6 at TDC is the least pressure. so put#1 at TDC and rotate the crankshaft one full turn and you'll be in the right spot with #6 now at TDC.

Here's a picture borrowed from somewhere on the internet showing the eccentric position when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke on #1 and would be exerting max pressure on the arm.

One turn of the crankshaft rotates the camshaft 1/2 turn to the minimum pressure position.