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Trailer Brakes, Never Dealt with these *Pics*

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48440
Printed Date: March-06-2025 at 7:47am


Topic: Trailer Brakes, Never Dealt with these *Pics*
Posted By: C_Heath
Subject: Trailer Brakes, Never Dealt with these *Pics*
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 3:27pm
This was talked about in an earlier thread but I wanted to start a dedicated one to reduce clutter. My first boat since my pro-star 190 20 years ago. Has the new electric box on the tongue. The trailer has DISK brakes and is a Magic Tilt. I mentioned to you guys that I didn't feel any braking of the trailer on the way home from the test drive. I still dont but I did try to back the boat up in the yard last night without the hooks engaged in the actuator and the brakes did lock up so I know that part works but I am not sure about the electric actuator that supposed to apply the brakes when I am actually braking on the road. I've got a 2007 Tacoma Double-cab 4x4 and I need all the help I can get to stop this 2000 pro Air.

Thanks again, here is a pic of the actuator.

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1979 Calipso Runabout (the boat that got it all started)
1988 Mastercraft ProStar 190 (sold)
2000 Pro Air Nautique/GT40



Replies:
Posted By: zwoobah
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 4:16pm
Do you have a trailer brake controller in the Tacoma? If not, you need one. The wiring should already be there for it.

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1968 Mustang 16 - 351W powered


Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 4:34pm
As a stop gap back up method (prior to wiring in the controller) I have seen the safety chain hooks hooked onto the fingers (hooks) that prevent the trailer from backing up.


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'05 206 Limited
'88 BFN


Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 4:44pm
Maybe I am missing something here, but this looks like a standard hydraulic brake set up to me.   when the trailer pushes against the truck, (braking or backing) the tongue moves to actuate the hydraulic actuator.   Disk brakes may just feel very smooth in comparison to what you are used to seeing. I am not sure how to test this, but a local trailer shop should be able to help you determine if the brakes are working or not.   As a side note,   I think the wires exiting the trailer through the hole in the steel looks like a place that will chafe over time. I would probably put a rubber grommet in the hole to keep the wire from chaffing, or maybe fill the hole with silicone?   


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 4:57pm
Looks like a surge brake actuator to me. Have you tried installing just the hitch and try moving it up and down? I just checked the one on the '99 we bought. I jacked up one side then spun the wheel and moved the actuator by pushing down on the hitch.   The brake should engage as the hitch is pushed down.

edit: not sure if yours needs to be pushed down or pulled up but you get the idea.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 4:58pm
Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

this looks like a standard hydraulic brake set up to me.

grommet in the hole to keep the wire from chaffing, or maybe fill the hole with silicone?   

plus 1

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 5:27pm
yeah those are hydro brakes

the trailer will just feel 'lighter'

You shouldn't every feel them slow you down, as soon as they try they shut themselves off


Dollars to donuts those wires are chaffed through on the tongue though

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 5:42pm
An easy test would be to do a hard stop & then check temperature of rotors. Tough guys use their hands, I myself would use an IR thermometer.

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: C_Heath
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 6:02pm
going to check All these tonight. Ill report back. Thanks guys!

-------------
1979 Calipso Runabout (the boat that got it all started)
1988 Mastercraft ProStar 190 (sold)
2000 Pro Air Nautique/GT40


Posted By: rebel skier
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 6:35pm
etailer.com sells it and has videos on its installation and how it works. They do not have a manual to download which surprises me.

Just google "titan hydraulic brake actuator etailer"



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Hotty Toddy lets go skiing!


Posted By: Faceplant
Date Posted: March-12-2020 at 11:23pm
A little bit off the main subject but you really want to cross the chains for safety.

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Feels like I am hanging 10 but in reality - probably hanging 6.


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 10:34am
Originally posted by Faceplant Faceplant wrote:

A little bit off the main subject but you really want to cross the chains for safety.


And your brake safety chain should be connected to the truck not the safety chain

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 11:17am
I have the same set up and it is not electric. It is hydraulic.

-------------
1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens
2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S.
1968 Ski Nautique, Project.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 11:57am
Originally posted by Faceplant Faceplant wrote:

A little bit off the main subject but you really want to cross the chains for safety.

Correct., The safety chains come to play if the trailer does get disconnected. The reason for crossing the chains is to allow the trailer even side to side movement. If the chains are not crossed, then the trailer will be pulled unevenly on one or the other side. Plus, all the load may be on one chain only.



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: rosconole
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 2:34pm
I would be the reverse lockout is not connected right or getting good signal , it has nothing to do with controller in the truck for electric brake , it does how use blue wire lead I believe in the wiring harness. check white ground as well on trailer.

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1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra 1998 5.0 Magazine shootout invitee


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 3:26pm
That is a Titan Hydraulic actuator for sure, a Surge Brake. Not Electric.
As mentioned some do add a reverse lockout that is electric but it is not standard with that hitch. Full electric brakes are not used on boats since boat trailers are submerged with every launch and electric brakes don't like to be submerged in water.
I have the same Titan installed on my car trailer, I put it on about 10 years ago. It works very well.
I will attach pictures so you can see how I set up my reverse lockout. I drilled a hole that blocks the slide from applying the brakes. An electric lockout would have been nice but this is what I did and it works.
When I bleed my brakes or test these brakes I use a Pipe Vise, typical wood working pipe vice. For this my pipe is about 2 foot long. It allows me to apply the brakes by tightening the vice. I can do this in my garage and it allows me to do the job with no help.   First make sure your brake master cylinder is full of brake fluid.   Tighten the vice and force the slide, where your ball hitch attaches to slide back towards the tires on the trailer.   Jack up one wheel and test it for brakes.   You can apply more or less brake using the pipe vice, I put the vice on an egg crate to support the weight and lower the trailer tongue down till it just keeps the vice from falling off. Otherwise the vice will fall off every time you loosen the pressure.
If you have an electric lockout good for you.   That would be a nice addition.
Once you determine your brakes are working, raise both trailer tires off the ground so you can spin them at the same time.   Now slowly apply your brakes with a little pressure using the pipe vice at the actuator.   Walk back and test each wheel so you know when each starts to work.
Most likely one tire will lock up before the other.   Apply a little more brake pressure and test again. Find out when the 2nd tire locks up or if it does lock up.
Both brakes are supposed to apply equal pressure at the same time. If one is locking up early there is a problem with the brake that is not locking up.   These are disc brakes so they are not adjustable.   You may be able to work it several times and get them to adjust properly or bleed the lines to make sure there is no air in the system on the weak brake side. Air will keep the brakes from working properly.
In my photos you can see where I drilled the Titan for my reverse lock out bolt. There are 3 factory bolts for mounting, these are all in a line, the 4th bolt is the lockout.
I had to have 100% lockout to back a trailer in my driveway. I have to make a 90* turn pushing a little uphill while my truck is on gravel and the trailer is on concrete. If my brake applies the truck just slides sideways on the gravel.   Good Luck with yours.
Edit: The guys are correct about your wires, they will be damaged and fail soon. You can cut a piece of fuel line hose, slice it down the middle so you can slip the wires into it and put a zip tie on to keep your split closed. Slip the hose through your hole in the trailer and your wires will be protected.   Something needs to be there.


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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 4:04pm
Why not just tape up the end of convoluted tubing already on the wire and push the complete tube back over the wires and into the hole? Why make life more difficult than it needs to be? Shouldn't you guys be going out and hording TP......

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 4:28pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Shouldn't you guys be going out and hording TP......

As of yesterday, I understand the HD in Rhinelander is the only place within a 200 mile radius that still has TP! Yesterday at work, we added it up - 40K of the sales were TP, water (limit at 4), sanitizers and cleaning supplies.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: C_Heath
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 4:49pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

That is a Titan Hydraulic actuator for sure, a Surge Brake. Not Electric.
As mentioned some do add a reverse lockout that is electric but it is not standard with that hitch. Full electric brakes are not used on boats since boat trailers are submerged with every launch and electric brakes don't like to be submerged in water.
I have the same Titan installed on my car trailer, I put it on about 10 years ago. It works very well.
I will attach pictures so you can see how I set up my reverse lockout. I drilled a hole that blocks the slide from applying the brakes. An electric lockout would have been nice but this is what I did and it works.
When I bleed my brakes or test these brakes I use a Pipe Vise, typical wood working pipe vice. For this my pipe is about 2 foot long. It allows me to apply the brakes by tightening the vice. I can do this in my garage and it allows me to do the job with no help.   First make sure your brake master cylinder is full of brake fluid.   Tighten the vice and force the slide, where your ball hitch attaches to slide back towards the tires on the trailer.   Jack up one wheel and test it for brakes.   You can apply more or less brake using the pipe vice, I put the vice on an egg crate to support the weight and lower the trailer tongue down till it just keeps the vice from falling off. Otherwise the vice will fall off every time you loosen the pressure.


If you have an electric lockout good for you.   That would be a nice addition.
Once you determine your brakes are working, raise both trailer tires off the ground so you can spin them at the same time.   Now slowly apply your brakes with a little pressure using the pipe vice at the actuator.   Walk back and test each wheel so you know when each starts to work.
Most likely one tire will lock up before the other.   Apply a little more brake pressure and test again. Find out when the 2nd tire locks up or if it does lock up.
Both brakes are supposed to apply equal pressure at the same time. If one is locking up early there is a problem with the brake that is not locking up.   These are disc brakes so they are not adjustable.   You may be able to work it several times and get them to adjust properly or bleed the lines to make sure there is no air in the system on the weak brake side. Air will keep the brakes from working properly.
In my photos you can see where I drilled the Titan for my reverse lock out bolt. There are 3 factory bolts for mounting, these are all in a line, the 4th bolt is the lockout.
I had to have 100% lockout to back a trailer in my driveway. I have to make a 90* turn pushing a little uphill while my truck is on gravel and the trailer is on concrete. If my brake applies the truck just slides sideways on the gravel.   Good Luck with yours.
Edit: The guys are correct about your wires, they will be damaged and fail soon. You can cut a piece of fuel line hose, slice it down the middle so you can slip the wires into it and put a zip tie on to keep your split closed. Slip the hose through your hole in the trailer and your wires will be protected.   Something needs to be there.


Thanks a bunch! Will do

-------------
1979 Calipso Runabout (the boat that got it all started)
1988 Mastercraft ProStar 190 (sold)
2000 Pro Air Nautique/GT40


Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: March-13-2020 at 4:50pm


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66 Skylark
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN
If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out!


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: March-14-2020 at 2:07pm
More than likely under this https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4835800183.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4835800183.html
You have one of these
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4748800.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4748800.html
It needs to be wired to your reverse light so when you put your truck in reverse it locks out the braking system.
For this to work you need a 5 pin or 7 pin connector as to incorporate the reverse lock.

The manual (sticking a bolt through) is fine if you don't have to back up any hills, where I live that would be a PITA
When I’m moving my trailer with my tractor I just slide a 1/2” x 4” bolt through the hooks on the front of the actuator that will keep it from sliding and applying pressure when not hooked to the truck.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-14-2020 at 2:46pm
Humans went 40K years without TP.
Now it is 1st priority when panic mode hits . . .

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-14-2020 at 3:48pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Humans went 40K years without TP.
Now it is 1st priority when panic mode hits . . .


Toilet paper is so overrated, you need to get one of these things in the link

https://www.google.com/search?q=bidet+toilet&oq=bidet&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l7.4451j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow - link

Last I knew Pete was in the plumbing dept. at the Depot, he's probably an expert on these things



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