Fuel Pump
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48582
Printed Date: March-06-2025 at 4:12am
Topic: Fuel Pump
Posted By: hdfooter
Subject: Fuel Pump
Date Posted: April-22-2020 at 11:16pm
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I have a 91’ BFN V-Drive with a PCM 454 7.4 liter motor and I need to replace the fuel pump. With most businesses shut down right now, I’m having a hard time finding the correct one to order. I’m hoping that some of you experts might be able to help me find the correct replacement and where I can order it from. TIA, Shawn |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2020 at 11:23pm
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Pics and more info would be good. The mark IV to gen5 transition happened 90-91 on the auto side but I’ve seen some later mark IV PCM’s. Gen5 block has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and uses electric instead. Let’s see what you’ve got. |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-22-2020 at 11:47pm
| TRBenj - I can take pics and post tomorrow as it is already dark outside and I wasn’t smart enough to take pics while I was in there looking at it. I do know that it is a mechanical fuel pump. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 12:07am
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Did you try SkiDIM? https://www.skidim.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=97843 How did you determine that you need to replace your pump? |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 12:14am
| I did see that on Skidim, just wanted to be sure it was the correct one. I determined it was a fuel pump because I’m not getting gas to the carb. The anti syphon valve is clean and clear and the fuel filter water separator is full (I filled it). If you have another thought, I’m all ears. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 12:35am
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I’d be checking that there is gas in the tank and the fuel pickup tube is functional. Is there fuel in the overflow line of the pump indicating a ruptured diaphragm? When was it last running ok? |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 12:51am
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I can check those lines. I stopped checking things after filling the filter and still wasn’t getting gas to the carb. Maybe assuming a fuel pump was wrong. The boat sat all last summer as I had picked up another boat and ran that all last summer. However, the last time we ran the boat, it would bog down on a hot deep water barefoot start, but it would pull a skier out of the water and accelerate up to barefoot speed, approx 44mph. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 9:46am
| How are you checking that fuel isn’t getting to the carb? |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 9:55am
| The front and rear fuel chambers on the carb are bone dry. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 10:35am
| If there’s fuel in the inlet side and getting nothing to the carb then I’d replace it... would be good to confirm you have a mark IV block but it’s likely you do. |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 10:46am
| Can you tell by a pic? I’m sure it’s obvious that I’m not a mechanic, but know just enough to get me in trouble. I appreciate the info you’ve given me thus far. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 11:00am
| Yes... a few pics from different angles would be best. Also grab the casting number of the block (bear bell housing). |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 12:25pm
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Since you say it's a mechanical pump, not knowing what you've done so far, it sounds like you're trying to start it after 2 years or so. If that's the case squirt some gas down the carburetor and get the engine running this way. It will probably die and take a few tries or more this way and it may stay running. The pump will suck a lot better when the engine is actually running and revved up compared to cranking over without starting. It may be a waste of time doing this if the pump is dead, but it only takes a few minutes and is worth a try. I can think of better working conditions that what you'll have changing that pump on a V drive BFN  |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 12:44pm
| KENO - believe it or not, under direction from a buddy of mine and against my better judgement, we tried that. As soon as the poured in gas was consumed, it died instantly. We tried that 4 times. After the same results each time, that’s when we checked the front and rear fuel compartments on the carb, they were bone dry. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 12:50pm
Sounds like you'l be replacing a pump then, or rebuilding the original I think I like your buddy's approach.
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hdfooter wrote:Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 1:01pm
| If the one on Skidim is the correct one, for $108, to me, it’s easier to replace then rebuild. |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 6:02pm
| Fellas, I’m not sure how to attach pics. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 6:34pm
If you are on a mobile device, then it's not easy. If so, the easy way is to forward the picture to a laptop. Then using the post reply or by clicking on the full reply editor icon, look for the icon of a tree with the up arrow. Clicking it will bring up a browse box that allows you to select the picture. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 8:29pm
The one on SkiDim will fit just fine on the engine, but if you read the notes about the clocking of the inlet and outlet on the linked page below, you may be having to redo your line from the pump to the carburetor due to the clocking difference. Outlet at 7 o'clock position, inlet at 9 o'clock position. The inlet side should have enough hose for any relocation necessary. https://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1058" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-23-2020 at 9:02pm
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Here's a picture of an 89 454 PCM fuel pump for comparison. Inlet is at 5 o'clock position, Outlet is at 6 o'clock position Ruptured diaphragm overflow tube is on other side but that's not a problem. 
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 7:17am
| 454 lucky dog. |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 11:07am
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Thanks for all the input from all of you. I haven’t been able to upload pics yet. If I get time today I’ll try and get on the computer and do it so you all can see. My pic of the fuel pump looks just like the pic KENO posted with the inlet at 5 o’clock and outlet at 6 o’clock. Looks like I’ll just need to reroute the lines in and out, or do you guys think I’ll need to replace the lines with longer lines to ensure any length of line issues? Again, thank you all for your input and insight, much appreciated. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 11:24am
Hose barb on the outlet, hold on to your hat! 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 11:34am
If the pump you get is screwed together, then you can clock the inlet/outlet. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 11:35am
| Will I need to get an extra gasket if I turn it? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 11:51am
I bought a replacement Carter pump for the Mustang while I rebuilt the original and while screwed together you could not change it. Cannot recall specifics but it could not be done. I ended up getting a longer inlet hose ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 12:10pm
If you can clock the pump you get, then you will not need a gasket. The rubber diaphragm acts as the gasket. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 12:59pm
You can clock the pump but whatever way you clock it you'll always have the same 60 degree difference between your inlet and outlet on the new pump. (difference between 9 o'clock and 7 o'clock position in degrees) The old pump has a 30 degree difference that can't be changed (difference between 6 o'clock and 5 o'clock position in degrees. You can't change the way the lower housing with the inlet connection bolts to the valve body section with the outlet connection. It can only bolt together one way and still have the pump work. So........you can clock both together, but you can't clock them independently of each other to make the new one the same as the old one |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 1:14pm
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Ken have you confirmed that the replacement GM pump can be clocked? That seems to be the implication, just confirming. Like you mentioned, the outlet (hard line) is really the only concerning piece... the orientation of the inlet (soft hose) should be relatively inconsequential. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 1:27pm
Correct so, a 30 degree difference should not be a big problem like Ken is all worked up about. Also per that picture he posted, it looks like he plumbs everything with rubber hose anyway so clocking isn't needed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 1:45pm
Yes, it can be clocked You take out the 6 screws and rotate the valve section and lower housing together and screw it back together. You can go 60 degrees at a time, some old ones had 12 holes in the fuel pump body, so you could go 30 degrees at a time but the newer foreign made ones like this only have 6 holes. So in this case he could only have the outlet at the 7 o'clock or 5 o'clock position but not the original pumps 6 o'clock position. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 1:49pm
Your thong must be riding up your crack a little more than usual this morning Pete
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 3:17pm
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There is USCG approved rubber fuel line (assuming that the advert is true...) https://tridentmarine.com/product/barrier-lined-a1-15-fuel-hose-319/#.XqMfyGhKjDc" rel="nofollow - LINK to USCG rubber fuel line JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 9:05pm
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Here's a top view of the 89 fuel pump with 12 holes, 6 of them filled by machine screws and the others just look like a black hole. That's what allows the 30 degree clocking with the old one By the way...............anybody that wants to can ignore the USCG legal hose fitting, it's fine with me 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 9:14pm
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So ..........back to our regularly scheduled programming, for hdfooter you can order the pump and like has been mentioned by more than one person the inlet won't line up but it's an easy fix with a little hose if you don't have a long enough piece already. Then on the outlet you can leave it as is or clock things, either way it won't line up like the original.. And then it's your choice of how you adapt the pump outlet to the carburetor. You maybe can bend your existing line enough, make a new metal line or use USCG approved rubber hose and fittings. It makes no difference to me You also might shop around a little and you might find a Carter M60502 for around 65 bucks or so
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Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 9:29pm
| Thank you all. Appreciate all the help and direction. |
Posted By: hdfooter
Date Posted: April-24-2020 at 10:25pm
| KENO - Boom, $58. Thanks for the shop around advise! |