56 Atom Skier bow keel glass nose removal
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48678
Printed Date: November-15-2024 at 1:39am
Topic: 56 Atom Skier bow keel glass nose removal
Posted By: 56-Atom
Subject: 56 Atom Skier bow keel glass nose removal
Date Posted: May-13-2020 at 2:40pm
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Started sanding and prep for repainting the 56 Atom's bottom and discovered cracking paint at the keel near the bow. Further inspection reveals I have a fiberglass "nose" that PO (my Dad or his friend) added in the 60's. No major damage can be identified and wood looks in good shape except for the faceplate that came loose when removing the last pieces of glass. Open for suggestions on next steps. Pics follow: Cracks discovered:  Glass discovered:  Glass ends as a nose cap  Faceplate loose  ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-13-2020 at 3:33pm
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John, The stem has delaminated. Very typical of the era. Sorry to say but the fiberglass was and is a true back yard hack job. I would say it's very likely the damage to the stem goes deeper than you think and a very good chance there's rot too.. A proper repair is to open up the stem area by unscrewing the ply and then replacing the stem. If you have looked at other threads about CC ply boats of the era, you will find they all have the problem. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: May-13-2020 at 3:50pm
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Pete, thank you. I sorta knew that would be the best next steps. I am thankful the glass ended with the bow area. My dad also glassed the transom area as well which was planned to be removed after this season. Can I do a short-term fix on the faceplate with epoxy now? Then I'll pull the motor and flip it after the season. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: June-04-2020 at 9:26pm
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Update on the stem repair project: Removed the rest of the keel face in one piece (correct name?) Inspected stem and keel and no rot present in stem or keel.  Epoxied the stem face section back into place  Noted the fracture, at the( bolt hole area) that I assume occurred with a grounding strike.  Noted the cut in the keel face of the original repair, then it was "previously" caped in glass  Noted the use of cotton twine as a gap filler, was this CC original or another fix it  Next step is to reattach the keel face with a sealant/caulk. I need recommendations on this. 3M 5200? ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-04-2020 at 10:16pm
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John, Looks like you'll be able to get more years out of her.  It's hard to tell from the pictures but are you using any filler in the epoxy? I'd go with the 5200 for fastening the outer keel on. The twine wasn't used for a filler. I'd say they used it to pull some framing together and then just left it there. More of CC's work back in the days! The old moto " get it as close as we can and caulk the rest." ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 12:09am
Using the West Epoxy Resin, slow hardener, and the Collodial Silica filler. Experimenting with the thickness mixtures to get a good smooth finish. Thanks for the intel on the roping...now I feel like I should shove it back in so it "stays original"  Another question: I pulled the log and rudder hardware. Do I use 5200 when I reset them? ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 12:31am
Pic of the wood issues found after removing the log, thinking some epoxy to strengthen the area.  ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 8:07am
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John, The colloidal silica is a good filler for epoxy but understand it's more for strength than fairing since it doesn't sand easy. I keep a supply around for projects. On the log, the problem will be the area has seen oil so epoxy isn't going to soak in very well. Sand the area down to wood and take a look. Were the screws pretty tight? If anything, I'd CPES the area and the screw holes. The strong solvents in the CPES cut through the oil and you end up with some strengthening. Then no on the 5200. 5200 can be removed with heat but going with 4200 would make removal easy if you ever have to. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 10:41am
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Screws came out easy. Thanks for the guidance and will keep at it. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |