Help! Cooling issue! Novice
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48765
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 12:58pm
Topic: Help! Cooling issue! Novice
Posted By: Atomic Dam
Subject: Help! Cooling issue! Novice
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 10:48am
I purchased this boat just a week ago, and this would have been my second outing on it. It's a 1975 Southwind 20 with a ford 351W PCM. First outing went off without an issue. Last night I put her in, she starts right up. I back away from the ramp to allow others to use it and waited for my friend to park the trailer. I was probably waiting for about 6 or 7 min because there was a line back to the dock. I noticed there there was a slight bit of smoke behind me and looked down at the temp gauge that was between 200 and 240. I panicked and immediately shut the engine off. I popped open the engine cover and noticed that both exhaust hoses were smoking, but very lightly. Wisps, like if a hot engine was burning off a drop of oil that had been dripped on it, It wasn't billowing. I left the top open and jumped on the paddle and headed to shore. I pulled the boat onto the trailer as far as I could by hand. I was scared to, but I started it up to get it on the rest of the way. Started off the first bump of the key. Temp was 180. As I gave it more and more throttle to snug up on the trailer the temp immediately started to drop all the way to 160. I need help. I don't know where to start.
I am ignorant in this area. This is my first inboard. I am mechanically competent but l need some instruction and some wisdom here. So feel free to talk to me like you were explaining this to your kid. Won't bother me a bit.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 10:56am
John, Have you been running the engine with the boat out of the water and without water connected? The RWP is water lubricated and it doesn't take long for rubber impellers to burn up. Check the impeller condition. Also, since the exhaust hoses got hot, you need to check them internally. When overheated, the inner layer becomes disbonded and folds inward and can cut off the exhaust/water flow.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 11:03am
No, I know never to start it out of the water without water hooked up. The only time it was run was while it was in the lake. I am going to go out now and check the impeller and the exhaust hoses. I will get back to you as soon as I dig in.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 11:48am
Just checked the exhaust hoses. Both were in really good condition. Looked brand new inside. Moving on to the impeller.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 11:57am
The Jonny Quest "how to avoid overheating" credo is:
1. Change raw water impeller every 2 years 2. Change thermostat every 3-4 years 3. Change temperature sending unit every 4-5 years 4. NEVER run engine without water. 5. Watch temperature gauge regularly while boating 6. Inspect risers and clean-out with each year's winterizing
Hopefully, your engine didn't get too hot for too long. Heat can screw-up a lot of things. Be vigilant and check your oil for signs of water intrusion. If water is getting into the oil, look under the oil fill cap for residue that looks like chocolate milk. Also, check the oil regularly to see if the oil looks "milky" and kinda like chocolate milk. That can be signs of a cracked head or head gasket issues. Both can occur with overheating.
JQ
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited
Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow
Aqua skiing, ergo sum
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 12:16pm
Talk about overkill. Thermostats and temp senders go bad very rarely.
Watch the gauge consistently and note when things are abnormal, and you’ll usually catch a cooling issue before it becomes serious. Impeller every 2-3 years or 150 hrs (whichever comes first) would be my recommendation. Only use high quality oem impellers.
Was the engine full of water when you first launched? Or was it dry? If a little throttle brought the temp down then a slight air leak might’ve caused the issue (while idling). Go inspect all hose ends and hose clamps for tightness.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 1:58pm
Understood. Just picked up impeller to replace. Going to do that now. I was told by the parts guy to check the strainer gasket. Where is that exactly?
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 2:06pm
Again, forgive my ignorance, I would rather be certain than make mistakes. Is the impeller housed in this pump?
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 2:22pm
John, Yes, that's the RWP.
Regarding the strainer, you may or may not have up. It's typical location would be between the thru hull water inlet and the trans cooler
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 2:24pm
As Tim states,
TRBenj wrote:
Only use high quality oem impellers. |
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 2:46pm
Okay, so apparently this is an Escort? 351 pcm. How do I find parts for this? when I went to the local boat shop to get an impeller, they gave me a model specif one for this boat, but it certainly is not the correct impeller. Does anyone know anything about this?
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 2:59pm
John, There should be a model and manufacturer on the pump. Many times it's stamped into the front flange of the pump where the gasket is.
Chances are good that it's a Sherwood so https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8374" rel="nofollow - take a look at their chart.
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64 X55 Dunphy
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 3:04pm
Atomic Dam wrote:
Okay, so apparently this is an Escort? 351 pcm. How do I find parts for this? when I went to the local boat shop to get an impeller, they gave me a model specif one for this boat, but it certainly is not the correct impeller. | The proper impeller is for the engine and NOT the boat. I think I'd be shopping elsewhere. .
Escort was purchased by PCM about 1977 or 78 so your engine is a Escort and not a PCM. Some parts interchange and others don't.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 3:50pm
The Sherwood impeller for your pump is most likely a 10615K like what's in the link below.
They used the same impeller and pump in the 302 and 351 Escorts. There's a good chance it's a G-85 Sherwood pump.
If only there was somebody posting in this thread with a 302 Escort who could tell him what he has for a pump and what impeller he uses in his.
The dimensions are in the link and you could compare them to what you have to see if the 10615K will be right.
https://www.google.com/search?q=sherwood+10615k&oq=sherwood+10615k&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l6.11298j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow - link
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 3:51pm
Its a Jabsco pump Model 17100-0001. Struggling to find anything
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 3:58pm
Atomic Dam wrote:
Its a Jabsco pump Model 17100-0001. Struggling to find anything |
This is what's listed for your pump
You can compare dimensions and note that the center is splined
I seem to think the body was plastic and lots of them were replaced with Sherwood's as they weren't too durable.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/jabsco-impellers-spline-drive-17937-0001-p" rel="nofollow - link
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 4:00pm
John, Since it's a Jabsco, https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=59586" rel="nofollow - here's their chart
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 5:02pm
I found the part online. There was a cross refrence number to a mercruiser engine model that uses that same impeller. It should be here wednesday. I did look and there is no strainer on this engine. But there are two inline canisters that look to have hoses to other engine components. Most notably the transmission. Does anyone know what those are?
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 5:10pm
Atomic Dam wrote:
I found the part online. There was a cross refrence number to a mercruiser engine model that uses that same impeller. It should be here wednesday. I did look and there is no strainer on this engine. But there are two inline canisters that look to have hoses to other engine components. Most notably the transmission. Does anyone know what those are? | If there are two "canisters", then one is the trans cooler and the other is probably an oil cooler. I said probably because a oil cooler isn't a common item on these small engines/boats. A picture will confirm.
Where did you come up with the number to cross reference to the merc?
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 5:47pm
TRBenj wrote:
Talk about overkill. Thermostats and temp senders go bad very rarely. |
Yea, Tim, it is a bit of overkill...but I've not had the best luck with thermostats and temp sending units in the PCM / SBF application. On my old boat (1994 SNOB) I went through 3 thermostats and 3 sending units in 12 years -- I even changed the temp gauge, thinking it was wonky. Maybe I'm just snake-bit...but I look at it as relatively cheap insurance. I spend a fair bit of time on Lake Powell, and we stay in some isolated areas, so I'm a little aggressive on certain maintenance items.
JQ
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited
Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow
Aqua skiing, ergo sum
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 8:21pm
Through a thorough cleaning, I actually found a faintly printed part number on the one of the blades of the impeller. I typed that in a general google search and several options presented. Most led nowhere, but two led those same parts being sold on amazon, or ebay. One led to a chart that had all the applications that fit specific part along with the manufacturers individual part numbers. I had to take precise measurements to make sure, but i found it. It seems odd to me that on a forum for correct craft that this hasn't come up more often. From everything i have found, this was a relatively routine placement in early 70's correct crafts. I will post a picture with the "canisters" for the hopefully clarification. Because i can find almost no info on these motors. Set up, specifications, nothin.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 9:03pm
Atomic Dam wrote:
Through a thorough cleaning, I actually found a faintly printed part number on the one of the blades of the impeller. I typed that in a general google search and several options presented. Most led nowhere, but two led those same parts being sold on amazon, or ebay. One led to a chart that had all the applications that fit specific part along with the manufacturers individual part numbers. I had to take precise measurements to make sure, but i found it. It seems odd to me that on a forum for correct craft that this hasn't come up more often. From everything i have found, this was a relatively routine placement in early 70's correct crafts. I will post a picture with the "canisters" for the hopefully clarification. Because i can find almost no info on these motors. Set up, specifications, nothin. |
The Escort engines weren't very popular at all. They were only around for a few years and there's not much info at all.
it seems odd to me that you didn't post the number on the impeller along with the measurements so there would be more info here on CCF about Escort engines..............for the next guy with the same problem
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 9:07pm
Sorry that seemed strange, unintentional. I will do that straight away. Im away from the house, i am replying from my phone. Will post more info when i get to my computer.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 9:09pm
Atomic Dam wrote:
Sorry that seemed strange, unintentional. I will do that straight away. Im away from the house, i am replying from my phone. Will post more info when i get to my computer.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2020 at 9:21pm
John, Here's a link to http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/PCM%20Engine%20Owners%20Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - the eary PCM 302/351 manual that's in the reference section. It will probably give you most information you need for your engine. Take a look and if you need more, ask and we'll see if we can help.
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Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:21am
It looks like the same pump that was on my commander. Duane in Indy may be of some help here as he machined a new housing from aluminum if i recall correctly.
------------- 2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:49am
Okay, So here is the site that I got the correct Jabsco part number from. It requires precise measurements of the existing impeller to find the part number for your replacement. After getting the part number and doing a search online, I found that this also has a corresponding Mercruiser part number.
https://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/jabsco/impeller-replacement/14649-391577.html
The Mercruiser cross reference number is MERCRUISER 34765A1 500106 / JABSCO 920-0001
I found one locally for $80, but decided to order them online. It was on amazon for $20. When it comes in, I will confirm that it was indeed the correct part, and update this thread.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:54am
8122pbrainard wrote:
John, Here's a link to http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/PCM%20Engine%20Owners%20Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - the eary PCM 302/351 manual that's in the reference section. It will probably give you most information you need for your engine. Take a look and if you need more, ask and we'll see if we can help. |
The boat actually came with this manual. As much as I have looked through it, it doesn't have anything in there about the escort produced 351. I appreciate you sending that over anyway though.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 11:24am
Atomic Dam wrote:
8122pbrainard wrote:
John, It will probably give you most information you need for your engine. Take a look and if you need more, ask and we'll see if we can help. |
The boat actually came with this manual. As much as I have looked through it, it doesn't have anything in there about the escort produced 351. I appreciate you sending that over anyway though. |
John, What else are you looking for? The Escort is basically the same as a early PCM 302/351.
Have you opened up the RWP yet to take a look? Maybe I missed it?
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 11:39am
I looked through it, of course when I looked I was looking for something specific, I will look again, I am now second guessing myself.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 12:46pm
John, What about the RWP? have you taken a look at the impeller? I'm curious if it's bad or good.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 12:56pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
John, What about the RWP? have you taken a look at the impeller? I'm curious if it's bad or good. |
Here it is. Not sure if this would be considered good or bad. It hasn't broken up and still has some flexibility, but looks like there are a few cracks where the neoprene has curved over. What do you think? Would it cause my overheating in this condition?
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:05pm
John, One you get the new impeller in, I have a feeling you will still need to go after the cooling problem.
Tim mentioned it earlier, tighten all the hoses on the suction side of the RWP. You may be sucking a small amount of air.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:08pm
I will certainly do that. Can I accurately gauge whether I am cooling properly using a "fake-a-lake"? will it supply enough water for that?
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:34pm
Atomic Dam wrote:
I will certainly do that. Can I accurately gauge whether I am cooling properly using a "fake-a-lake"? will it supply enough water for that? | If you haven't already found the FAQ thread in the maintenance section, take some time and explore it. In it, there's a link to the "bucket test". It's a method of determining the RWP performance.
BTW, on the hose is a poor indication of performance sine the pressure of the water hose overcomes and masks cooling problems.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:37pm
Okay. I haven't gone through that yet. I will make a point to do that. Thanks
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:43pm
Its bad. The only power to pull water from the lake comes from the impeller's vanes springing back to shape. Your old one is 'set' and will pull extremely little to no water, especially at idle.
Like Pete sez, confirm pull with the bucket.
------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:49pm
GottaSki wrote:
Its bad. The only power to pull water from the lake comes from the impeller's vanes springing back to shape. Your old one is 'set' and will pull extremely little to no water, especially at idle.
Like Pete sez, confirm pull with the bucket. |
good to know. thanks for lingo too. I know I will pick that stuff up over time. I am going to order a plunger set-up so I can test it out once I get the new part installed and give my hoses all a good tightening.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 2:06pm
GottaSki wrote:
Its bad. The only power to pull water from the lake comes from the impeller's vanes springing back to shape. Your old one is 'set' and will pull extremely little to no water, especially at idle. . | Tom, I disagree. You aren't looking at the impeller in the housing compressed against the cam. Mute point anyway since the new one will be going in.
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 2:36pm
heh. yeah. Pete i know you get 40 years out of yours but i would never run that impeller. the sides are worn out and leaking air past the weak vanes. No water on startup can be expected. I even let other people take the helm of my boat. I'd rather their eyes are on traffic than the temp gauge. Remind me never to get in your airplane
------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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Posted By: scootdogydog
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 2:58pm
That looks like a jabsco impeller. Better make sure the new one matches what you took out
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 7:06pm
Atomic
You seem to have gotten your pump issues into 2 separate threads now so I cut and pasted the below from my post in your other thread
KENO wrote:
Atomic Dam wrote:
That is the image I keep running into on my searches. Mine is a strait through with the in and out flow directly opposed with only a 3 bolt pattern. Here is the cover. I suppose they could have made them in more then one way. |
Click on the link below and you'll find some pertinent info for your pump including mention of the impeller number (which happens to be the one you ordered or at least cross references to the one you ordered)
And you "supposed" right......................It has port arrangements like you describe and also a 3 bolt cover.
And it mentions a couple of gaskets # 14 in the diagram part number 17106-0000 and no O rings.
It just might answer your questions.................maybe
It mentions plastic bodies but there were metal replacements for them too.
http://www.depcopump.com/datasheets/jabsco/older_datasheets/17100-0011_Data_Sheet_1977.pdf" rel="nofollow - link
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[/QUOTE]
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 7:11pm
Ken thanks for that link. That is just what I needed. I thought I searched pretty thoroughly, and you find it right away.. You guys have been a great help to me so far.
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran '75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 7:43pm
Some people around here think I'm some kind of search geek ...............or maybe I've been searching since yesterday..............or maybe I know a 13 year old with a smart phone that can find anything.
Gotta go to bed now, I've been up for a long time
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 7:58pm
KENO is the Holy Grail of google searches. Kinda spooky....
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited
Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow
Aqua skiing, ergo sum
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-01-2020 at 8:01pm
Well I am super glad he is. My buddy list is growing...
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-03-2020 at 5:02pm
There is no doubt, Ken has figured out the search method and probably has a God given memory that works better than most. He has found solid solutions for more people than you can imagine.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-03-2020 at 5:08pm
Great. Glad he is here. So update. I got the impeller in today. It is the correct impeller, I had to make my own gasket because I was unable to purchase that particular part and get here at reasonable cost. I will install tomorrow after work and water test it. Hopefully that will fix the cooling issue. I will also tighten up all the exhaust related hose connections as well.. I didn't realize how how of shape the old impeller was in. It looked fine, other than being "set", but the holding the new one... the old one is hard and brittle. I hope this is the fix.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-03-2020 at 5:25pm
Atomic Dam wrote:
I will also tighten up all the exhaust related hose connections as well.. | Suction side of the RWP
8122pbrainard wrote:
John, Tim mentioned it earlier, tighten all the hoses on the suction side of the RWP. You may be sucking a small amount of air. | Use a nut driver or socket not just a screwdriver.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-03-2020 at 5:55pm
MrMcD wrote:
There is no doubt, Ken has figured out the search method and probably has a God given memory that works better than most. He has found solid solutions for more people than you can imagine. |
He learned it from a young kid with a cell phone
And............the only thing or maybe few things I have a good memory for are useless to about 99 44/100ths percent of the world
The other 0.56% that it might be useful for are here on CCF
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-03-2020 at 6:09pm
Okay. thanks for those tips.
Keno, it's the 0.56% that I fit into. It's only useless info to people who don't need it. I need all I can get.
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-03-2020 at 6:45pm
When you install your brand new impeller squirt some dish washing soap fluid on the vanes, get them really slippery and you will be able to turn it right into place. Try it dry and you will be in for a fight. The soap won't hurt anything, it will wash right out on start up. Don't use petroleum products they will help rot and age your new impeller. Mark
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-03-2020 at 7:50pm
Alright. I have her all put back together. I tightened up all the hose clamps suction side, some had several turns in them before they tightened up. As soon as I got everything closed up a thunderstorm rolled through, so I will get her in the water tomorrow and see how I did. I am hopeful.
I did not realize it when I originally took the 3 bolts out of the cover, that the body of the Impeller housing is completely free from the pump, only held in place at that point by the coolant hoses. Taking that loose made putting the new impeller in place considerably easier.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-03-2020 at 7:53pm
MrMcD wrote:
When you install your brand new impeller squirt some dish washing soap fluid on the vanes, get them really slippery and you will be able to turn it right into place. Try it dry and you will be in for a fight. The soap won't hurt anything, it will wash right out on start up. Don't use petroleum products they will help rot and age your new impeller. Mark |
I truly wish I had seen this before I got to pushing and shoving on that thing. Lesson learned. Hopefully next years replacement will go smoother with that little trick. Thanks
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-04-2020 at 1:20am
I run my impellers 2 years and have no issues. Everytime I try for a third year I pay the price with an impeller failure. I think they last longer in climates that don't expose them to as much heat. In CA I only get two years. My buddies have tournament boats here also, we all have come to the 2 year max program after seeing 3rd year failures.
I agree that your old impeller was certainly due for replacement. Any time I pull one out that looks like that I also had idle temps creeping up, they still work at speed though.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-04-2020 at 10:55am
I'm in Texas, ambient temps here are almost engine operating temperatures. It's not quite 8am here now and I think we are already up to 140. I see the general thought here is that they are a yearly PMCS, along with fluids.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 10:03am
Atomic Dam wrote:
Alright. I have her all put back together. I tightened up all the hose clamps suction side, some had several turns in them before they tightened up. As soon as I got everything closed up a thunderstorm rolled through, so I will get her in the water tomorrow and see how I did. I am hopeful.
I did not realize it when I originally took the 3 bolts out of the cover, that the body of the Impeller housing is completely free from the pump, only held in place at that point by the coolant hoses. Taking that loose made putting the new impeller in place considerably easier.
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You probably noticed that there should be a gasket on either side of the impeller housing, but I figured I'd mention it just in case
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 10:24am
Atomic Dam wrote:
, I had to make my own gasket because | John, Ken's post regarding the gaskets got me thinking. The thickness of the two will make a difference on how well the impeller seals on the front and back (shaft ends). If the bucket test fails, I'd look at the gaskets. Also, is the impeller you purchased OEM?. The OEM suggestions earlier were due to the shaft end sealing issue. It was found that the OEM impeller had molded in "O" rings on it's ends whereas the imitation did not. The loss of performance was attributed to the ends not sealing.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 10:36am
8122pbrainard wrote:
Atomic Dam wrote:
, I had to make my own gasket because | John, Ken's post regarding the gaskets got me thinking. The thickness of the two will make a difference on how well the impeller seals on the front and back (shaft ends). If the bucket test fails, I'd look at the gaskets. Also, is the impeller you purchased OEM?. The OEM suggestions earlier were due to the shaft end sealing issue. It was found that the OEM impeller had molded in "O" rings on it's ends whereas the imitation did not. The loss of performance was attributed to the ends not sealing. |
He made his own gasket for the cover, no mention of thickness. Most all these raw water pump paper gaskets are paper thin and pretty flimsy
I think you're referring to the Sherwood 09959 impeller with it's ribs Pete, not his Jabsco.
I figure that we both figure that he can get it together and see how it works
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 10:42am
KENO wrote:
I think you're referring to the Sherwood 09959 impeller with it's ribs Pete, not his Jabsco. | Yes I am referring to the issue with the Sherwood OEM impeller VS non BUT, the Jabsco is still a flexible impeller pump that operates the same.
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Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 11:00am
Yes, I am aware that there was more than one gasket. I was diligent in my repair, thank you for mentioning it though. I have been known to miss things from time to time.
I got her all pieced back together and took her out last night to see if that did the trick, and most importantly to make sure that there were no other issues caused by the overheating. I ran it for about three hours from Idle to full throttle, with no issues. the Temp gauge would creep up to 180 and immediately drop back down to 160 in it's ebb and flow. Which is good, I was able to confirm the thermostat was working well. Water pump sealed off good, no leaks. (I used Fel-Pro KARROPAK Tan Fiber Sheet 1/64" Paper gasket for coolant connections) I did get more water in the bilge than expected, upon further investigation, my starboard side exhaust tube's hose clamp had failed, and I had some water leaking out.
Outside of that, I am back in business. Thanks again for everyone's help. I really appreciate all the wisdom received.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 11:41am
Nothing else to say but
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 11:54am
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-05-2020 at 12:17pm
Outstanding. Another happy customer
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