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Riser Leak

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49037
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 1:58pm


Topic: Riser Leak
Posted By: RedSmith
Subject: Riser Leak
Date Posted: August-08-2020 at 8:47am
'88 Correctcraft.  One riser is leaking from the bottom along the seam.  Ideas on whether to replace of try to weld up the cast iron?  Thanks.



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-08-2020 at 9:31am
Arther,
The "seam"? How about posting a picture. The gasket between the manifold and riser is a pretty common problem. Pull the riser and see if it is just the gasket. 


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Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: RedSmith
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 9:49am
It's the manifold, not the riser, my mistake.  I am going to pull the manifold and have the leak welded up.  Is there a gasket between the manifold and the engine.  I want to get ahead of time.  thanks


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:04am
CC used a couple engines in 88 in different models. Which one do you have? The big or small block? 

Did the manifold crack due to not being drained for cold weather? Understand there's the exhaust and cooling water cavities so, I suggest pressure testing after welding to make sure the cooling cavity isn't cracked as well. 


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<


Posted By: RedSmith
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:07am
351 Ford with 4 barrel carb.  Guess it's the big block


Posted By: RedSmith
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:11am
How is the pressure testing done?  Is this something I have to get done at my dealer or is there a way I can do it?  I do not expect that the crack is due to freezing.  I am very careful in the winterizing, although it's certainly possible.  Thanks for the quick reply.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:16am
Pressure testing is done by removing the riser, making a block off plate for the top of the manifold where the riser was, adding water to the cooling cavity and then some regulated compressed air. About 10 psi will show water in the exhaust cavity if there's a crack. 

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<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:20am
351 exhaust gaskets:

https://www.bing.com/search?q=351+marine+exhaust+manifold+gasket&form=ANNTH1&refig=0e63402b8d064fbe8e126946e6761e00&sp=-1&pq=351+marine+exhaust+manifold+gasket&sc=1-34&qs=n&sk=&cvid=0e63402b8d064fbe8e126946e6761e00" rel="nofollow - https://www.bing.com/search?q=351+marine+exhaust+manifold+gasket&form=ANNTH1&refig=0e63402b8d064fbe8e126946e6761e00&sp=-1&pq=351+marine+exhaust+manifold+gasket&sc=1-34&qs=n&sk=&cvid=0e63402b8d064fbe8e126946e6761e00

BTW, a 351 is a small block. 


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Posted By: Hysteria
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:27am
Welding cast iron is pretty hit or miss, for the sake of reliability you may want to replace the manifold rather than trying to patch it.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:32am
Originally posted by Hysteria Hysteria wrote:

Welding cast iron is pretty hit or miss, for the sake of reliability you may want to replace the manifold rather than trying to patch it.

Yes for the unqualfied I agree.


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Posted By: RedSmith
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:56am
thanks a lot for the info and advice.  Think we'll try welding and testing first.


Posted By: RedSmith
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:57am


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-14-2020 at 10:59am
Doesn’t matter if qualified or unqualified when manifolds are readily available just put that time and effort and money into a new one. Different story if you have something unobtainable imho

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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-15-2020 at 1:40pm
I've had poor luck welding cast iron.  I'm with Gary...put your time and ca$h into a new manifold.

JQ


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2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-15-2020 at 2:41pm
Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

I've had poor luck welding cast iron.  

JQ
Have you been pre heating the parts over 500F? 


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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-15-2020 at 8:52pm
The manifold's gasket surface is probably pitted.  You can machine it down to get past the pits & it should work.  If they aren't deep you could even file it if you are good at keeping it flat.


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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-15-2020 at 11:36pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

I've had poor luck welding cast iron.  

JQ
Have you been pre heating the parts over 500F? 

I couldn't get the engine block into the oven...Wink

We did try to pre-heat with a propane torch, but the end results were still poor.  I'm a very average welder.  I need to keep my day job and let the good welders make arcs with cast iron.

JQ


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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-16-2020 at 8:41am
Cast iron needs to be preheated until it is glowing red. 
Then stick weld with high-nickel rod. 
Post heat for slow cooling. 
It would then need to be machined flat again.

Much easier to buy a new one!



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