302 Rear Main Leak
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4911
Printed Date: November-30-2024 at 12:04pm
Topic: 302 Rear Main Leak
Posted By: rebenj
Subject: 302 Rear Main Leak
Date Posted: October-03-2006 at 1:47pm
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I have a 1978 Commander Ford 302 reverse rotation engine in my Ski Tique. The motor was rebuilt 2 years ago and has had a minor oil leak from the rear main from both parting lines since. I used to correct Fel Pro seal P/N 17746. Changed the seal again after a year and still had the same problem. Motors out and I am ready to change it again but this time I have a Ford seal from SKIDIM. Talked to various Marine Engine rebuilders and some say to offset the seal and some don't. Should it be offset or not?? Any other suggestions to offer would be appreciated. The crank end is mint, no groove ect.
Regards d*ck |
Replies:
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-03-2006 at 2:36pm
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Absolutely stagger the joint away from the parting line of the engine and pan and apply a dab of rtv at each joint of the seal and at the parting line of the block at pan where they meet the seal. Also be careful on the torque proceedure with the pan use a good torque wrench, follow the manual and then after the rtv is well dry give it another retorque, then after a warming cooling cycle or two give them another re torque. Good luck ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-03-2006 at 7:49pm
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Rebenj, you say minor oil leak from the rewar main at the parting lines.stupid question,did they reuse the old crank? if yes go to question #2 Is the crank reverse rotation,the only difference is the direction of the knurling at the rear journal,this pulls the oil away from the seal.wrong crank and there is not a seal that will stop it,oil gets fed to the seal rather that away. if it is indeed at the pan try this ,good clean bead at fore and aft pan hump,GM (mr. goodwrench) brand RTV,set pan and install pan bolts,then allow 30 min. for the stuff to go off. wait overnite and tighten to specs........this is how i do it.....boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: October-03-2006 at 9:03pm
I've bought the 2 piece marine seal, it had the same Ford number on it a $14 auto seal had. A 2 piece seal uses a crank with directional wick lines, which is in the photo below, a RH crank. The smooth crank uses a one piece seal and the seal has the grooves. I think Ford started one piece seal cranks around 1980.
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: rebenj
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 7:08am
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To JoeinNY;
Thanks for the response and help. What you recommended is exactly what we were going to probably do. Again thanks for you help. d*ck ------------- ri78tique |
Posted By: rebenj
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 7:23am
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To: boat dr
Thanks for providing you input to me and to answer your question I reused the old original crank. It's in perfect shape with the knurling in the right direction and uses a two piece $70 seal. I will follow your recommendation with the use of the GM RTV. d*ck ------------- ri78tique |