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Broken shaft

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4916
Printed Date: June-25-2024 at 3:13am


Topic: Broken shaft
Posted By: Martinique
Subject: Broken shaft
Date Posted: October-03-2006 at 10:21pm
Not sure how this happened but tonight during the last wakeboarding pull of the night my shaft snapped. Anyone ever have this kind of problem? I was in deep water 40-50ft and no gators where I live in WI. I just got the wakeboader outta water about 3K RPM and then then with no warning the RPM's went through the roof. I know I didn't hit anything but my shaft broke about an inch inside the strut. Very clean brake and no damage to the rutter or boat(not sure how with the Prop spinning that fast). Any how I am thankful no one was hurt and the boat was not damaged. Except for the lost 4 blade OJ. But the big question is how long of shaft do I order and is SKIDIM the best place to get one or does anyone have a spare or a deal on one. My boat is an 86 Martinique with a 351W and a velvet drive 1:1 tranny with a 1" shaft dia. I just put gt40 heads and a edlebrock intake on, could the extra torque snapped the shaft?



Replies:
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: October-03-2006 at 10:31pm
Had something kind of like that happen one time when we had ran over the rope. The prop cut the rope but a small pice wound up tight, and sucked in with the strut. The shaft proke in a simular spot. This was not on my Correct Craft but could be the same.

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Work to live, not live to work.



Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 7:28am
Originally posted by Martinique Martinique wrote:

I just put gt40 heads and a edlebrock intake on, could the extra torque snapped the shaft?


No way no how.

Likey fatigued from misalignment or a bottom strike sometime in its life.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 7:30am
Yes, it happened to me in my ex. 71 Nautique. Just took off from the no wake area & a few second later it felt like I hit a brick wall. I guess I was lucky, mine broke just below the coupling so my prop & shaft stayed in the strut. Found a machine shop the next morning close to the lake & the next day I was back on vacation! I am sure over time these shafts can break just because of stress & fatigue.

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Greg

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2427&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - 86 BFN


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 7:42am
somewhere maybe on the internet you may find a chart to look at to deternmine what broke the shaft, it shows diifferent types of breaks such as twist, stress so on that is if your curious, the chart illustrates the broken ends and you compare yours to this, i know this because i had a warranty problem in which the man lost a $8000.00 rolla prop which snapped close to the taper. by using the chart we determined the problem to be the shaft

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 10:54am
It's an alignment issue why it broke. Not sure on the length I called MidwestCC and dennis gave me the stock length for my '79 SN which was 50" I had one made at 49.5" and worked out great for my application. Give Dennis a call and I'm sure they can tell you what length you need and you can start to compare prices. The type of material used for the shaft will effect the price.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 11:57am
Chris, FYI

Dennis is no longer at MWCC, Bruce is the only guy left with any experience on the older boats. I know Bruce's son is working in parts with him and some other guy but they're relative newbies.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 12:19pm
If it is an alignment issue, you'll find out on re-install, not saying there is other damage but when we tear a borg apart you can tell the ones that had mis-alignment, sometimes teeth will be broke off the planetary and the case bore will have the planetary wore into it. when you get the shaft in let us know what the alignment is

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Martinique
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 12:27pm
There was no vibration at all so I don't think is was misalinged. The break is super clean I will put up a pic as soon as remove it. My guess after 20 years of service and 1100 hrs it was time to break. Just seemed odd the 1st time in the water after the intake and heads upgrade the shaft broke.


Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 1:01pm
A friend of mine had the alignment off on his ski tique and the shaft broke, nearly killed him. He was running about 25 and it broke and it slid back and hit the rudder causing an abrupt turn. The steering wheel almost broke his hands and arms. My shaft is 40 years old, never broken.

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Tim D


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 1:12pm
alot of times with mis-alignment you may or may not get a vibration, i would look for that chart i talked about earlier, I cant remember what causes a clean break. a twisting break i believe one side woul be higher. i will also look tonight for that chart it is really informative

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Martinique
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 1:19pm
thanks eric, I looked for the chart but I cannot find it anywhere. If you find please send over.


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 1:44pm
andy,call me with year model,i will call one of my vendors to check price...........boat dr

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: Martinique
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 3:16pm
boat dr thanks for the hook up, the shaft has been ordered...let me know about the prop and remmember I am broke.


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 4:03pm
Andy, ain't nothing but a thang,this is what i do for a living,buy parts ,work on boats,and try to make my clients happy. glad to do a good deed for a CCF,also saved you a lot of money in the process.it ain't BS if you can back it up. Advice is cheap;Knowhow is expensive.............boat dr

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 69 Mustang
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 7:57pm
After this discussion, I wonder if I should order a new shaft. 78 Ski Tique with around 700 hrs, but I have only put on about 12 of those hours, so I have no idea if it's ever been hit, etc, etc. Hmmm...

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For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong.

"Where the **** are we?" Amelia Earhart. July 2, 1937


Posted By: Martinique
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 8:01pm
not a bad idea if you have the cash and the time. We were one of two boats out and luckly were able to get towed all the way across the lake and back to the dock. I was without outta paddle


Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 8:09pm
Did you order the double taper shaft?
I just bought and installed one and SKIDIM's price was much much better than CC dealer.


Posted By: Martinique
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 9:59pm
boat dr hooked me up with an incredible deal


Posted By: p/allen
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 10:07pm
I have gotten 2 shafts for my 72 . Paid 75 apiece for them at local machine shop back 8 years or so . I dont know what kind of stainless they used but it seems to hold up to my 220 hp 302. Dr. , do you know what kind of stainless that shafts are made of ?

Pat

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Pat
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w146/72ccfan/100_5977-1.jpg - My 72 Skier
Rock River
Dixon,ILL.


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-04-2006 at 11:32pm
p/allen my prop and shaft guru says;we offer the following shafts,#17, #19,#22. the higher the # the more resistant they are to corrosion,that tells me #22 contains more nickel and other alloys making it softer but more expensive.#17 is the stock material and specs for C/C. they are the OEM for all of C/C boats.
shaft is 41 in. single taper........boat dr

when asked about the break"every part has a service life,w/the clean break sounds like metal fatigue, end of subject"

for the price of the shaft i was quoted and the fact i just bought 2 Austals 4 blades,sounds like cheap insurance to the boat dr........... but i could be wrong

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 69 Mustang
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 12:04am
boat dr,

Care to sell me a shaft? 1978 Ski Tique w/a 220hp 302.

Thanks.

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For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong.

"Where the **** are we?" Amelia Earhart. July 2, 1937


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 7:58am
since your replacing the shaft might as well looking in to replacing the packing gland with a dripless seal as well. Always nice to have a clean water free bilge.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 9:24am
Mike , how long and what is the application,fresh or salt water.my '64 shaft i a little longer than std.1.75 in. this allows me to swing a 13 dia. and still mantain the clearace ratio of 10% or 1.3 in.between prop and hull...........boat dr

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: duffnit
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 9:43am
I have a question.
Do they make, or could you get a collar to put on the shaft above the strut so in the event the shaft was to break;

a; You wouldn't loose your $350 (+ -) prop?

b; Reduce possible rudder and hull damage?

I guess there is a reason this isn't done. Perhaps a balance issue....Anyone? d

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Danny





"no offense- but the rate at which you spread bad information is very impressive"    


Posted By: Martinique
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 9:48am
A collar would not have helped me. mine broke about 1" inside the strut


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 9:58am
You can buy a 2-piece egg shaped zinc anode that will bolt on the the shaft at that location. I had one on my 1967 when I got it, the previous owner must have added it because he was storing the boat in salt water, if he hadn't painted over it, it might have been some help. I tossed it since I run in freshwater and hoist the boats at night but it would save the prop in the case of some shaft breaks.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: David F
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 10:06am
Originally posted by duffnit duffnit wrote:

I have a question.
Do they make, or could you get a collar to put on the shaft above the strut so in the event the shaft was to break;

a; You wouldn't loose your $350 (+ -) prop?

b; Reduce possible rudder and hull damage?

I guess there is a reason this isn't done. Perhaps a balance issue....Anyone? d


Yes, such collars exist. They are usually installed just ahead of the packing gland inside the bilge. The purpose is to keep the prop from hitting the rudder if the shaft was to pull out of the coupling while backing hard. As I went with a double taper shaft and thus no chance of the shaft pulling out of the coupling, I did not reinstall the collar.

I suppose you could install the collar just ahead of the strut without problem (other than increased water turbulence/drag. You can have my collar if you want it.

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Posted By: Martinique
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 11:49am
Is there a tool to help remove the shaft from the coupling? I have the coupling unbolted from the tranny and the set bolts removed but I cannot seam to loosen the shaft from the coupling. any ideas?


Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 1:13pm
Vice grip and a hammer with a heavy hand. There is a special slide hammer but it isnt cheap and your shaft is already trash.


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 1:23pm
try cutting the rest of the bad shaft out and press the coupling off in a press, you may have to use a cut off wheel, be careful of the sparks or you can use a h bar puller wih bolts. its hard to use a slide hammer to do this. there are split type couplings available which do not use the taper shaft, you use a straight shaft with a key and the coulping is split down the middle with 2 bolts when you tighten these bolts the coupling is clamped right onto the shaft, they are the cats a$$ they are available from t.m.i 1-800-462-8848

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 1:47pm
my bad, i thought you were having trouble pulling the shaft out.


Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 3:10pm
Hey boat dr,

Do you know if I have enough clearance to run these Acme props that folks rave about like the 542 on my 79 Ski Tique with a new but stock shaft?

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Work to live, not live to work.



Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 3:57pm
Originally posted by Martinique Martinique wrote:

Is there a tool to help remove the shaft from the coupling? I have the coupling unbolted from the tranny and the set bolts removed but I cannot seam to loosen the shaft from the coupling. any ideas?

Try reading http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4742&PN=1 - this thread for ideas. I'd recomend replacing the shaft with a double tapered shaft. Makes all that a non-issue, the way I understand it.


Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 4:02pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

the previous owner must have added it because he was storing the boat in salt water, if he hadn't painted over it, it might have been some help.

That's funny!
Aside from the drag/turbulance issues, I'd be concerned about holding a prop in the strut turning at 3-4K rpm that just broke loose from the shaft. It might saw into the hull instead of flying off to the bottom of the lake and that would suck. Plus the prop would be all beat up.


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 5:26pm
jimbo, i like the double tapers too it is a hell of alot easier removing them and re-installing them. With the straight shafts i like the split clamp type coupling they are really easy to r and r.

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-05-2006 at 5:33pm
79; my '64 ame w/a 12 in. dia. prop,that was the reason for extending my shaft.you should have the room,measure C/L of prop shaft to the floor of your boat,if you have 7.75in. or more you can swing a 13in. wheel w/no problemo...........boat dr.

i have about 1.30 in. prop to hull clearance,too close and it will burn(pull the gel)the bottom..........

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: October-06-2006 at 2:34am
Thanks boar dr. I'll check it out.

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Work to live, not live to work.



Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 5:14pm
My shaft in my 82 SN broke last year exactly the same way. New shaft, dripless packing, new prop. About two nights to replace it. It was the first time i had ever removed the shaft, so it took me a while. I think I cut the shaft to get it out of the boat. All parts and advice came from SKIDIM.

ernest



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