JQ

Pictures have been lost when CCfan was hacked a couple months ago but I found a old post that may help:

8122pbrainard wrote: Pat,  Here's the spacer and long bolt trick used to remove the shaft coupling:    The coupling to the shaft should be a interference fit so they can be difficult at times to remove. If your's comes off easy and there's a black "smut" at the bore of the coupling and on the shaft then the coupling has fretted due to bad shaft to engine alignment. Hopefully you'll be ok. Get out the micrometer and measure. The bore should be .0005 to .001 under the shaft. Now, since it a shrink fit, to get the coupling back on, you'll need to heat the coupling in your oven at about 450 degrees for several hours. This will allow you to slip the coupling on the shaft before it cools.  Before you go to put the coupling back on, you should check the face to make sure you haven't warped it when removing it. A flat file accross the face is the easiest but chucking it up in the lath and using a dial indicator is best. If it is warped, then it needs to be pressed on the shaft and a facing cut taken to true it up.

One thing you mentioned that concerns me and that is you said the coupling moved slighly and then locked up. It shouldn't have moved at all. Again, the coupling to shaft is a heat shrink interference fit. 

Here's a picture of a coupler that probably looks a lot like yours.

Matter of fact it is yours (or somebody with the same screen name and problem on PN )  

Here's a link to a You Tube video down below.

Maybe your harmonic balancer puller wasn't strong enough, you're going about it the right way from the description you gave. They can be on there tighter than tight.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjvc7gPfWzA" rel="nofollow - link

The method Pete and JQ talk about won't work with your coupler, you're doing it right though

Are you using a puller with 4 bolts to distribute the force evenly around the flange.

CCF phones and photos don't get along too good at all.

You just don't have much room to whack the center bolt on the puller with a hammer when things are tight

It won!! I am standing down until I can get that puller like the one in the video. Then I will re-address this situation. Very disheartening... I have spent so much time on this prop and coupler that I could have already had the transmission in and back on the water. Thanks for all of the help and I am always open to advice or ideas.

Going to throw together a DIY Post with pictures once this is all completed. I have scoured the internet for information and was very surprised at how limited it is out there.

It's great Ken did some footwork and found your PN post filling in some gaps in information. So, now that you have a double taper shaft, you don't need to worry about heat shrink interference fits. Good luck with using that puller. It looks like it will work for you. 

Then you buy a new shaft like in the link

Glad it's out and you're movin' on

I'd pull the coupling when the new puller shows up just to clean up the seating surface on the shaft and hopefully make any future disassembly easier. (and much more importantly, just to show that coupling who the boss is)

Some heat and tighten the center bolt on the puller good and tight and a good whack on the center bolt with a hammer should have it off.

On a side note: Is there any where I can go to get the torque specifications for the install? Thanks in advance

You can thank Matt for his investigative work  http://https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49060&KW=&PID=589252&title=dampener-plate-replacement-yikes#589252" rel="nofollow - http://https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49060&KW=&PID=589252&title=dampener-plate-replacement-yikes#589252  

Gary

Your link .............it don't work

Here's one that works

If you look at the beginning of yours and compare to this link, you have http://https://, you can get rid of some of that crap and make it look like what's below. I have no idea what those numbers are in the middle and at the end of your link either.

If only Keith had some instructions, since it's not exactly too easy to figure out   Mpost helped me get things figured out.  

There haven't exactly been too many hyperlinks posted since the site was restored.

I thought it was a little early in the morning for you Gary 

Probably be all iced over by Monday morning so hurry up  

How hard did the coupling come apart after the bolts were out? Maybe the alignment was off when you got the boat.
 

Did you take the coupling off the shaft and clean things up, then reinstall it?

Or just slap it back in without removing the coupling?

What ever happened with the 1/4 inch mentioned above?

So many questions 

If the coupler is not on the shaft, does it mate up easily with the other half on the v drive?

Just me thinking, but I think it was out of alignment when you bought it and while you're looking at it all twisted and contorted to get a look at it, it might look good to the naked eye, but be off enough to prevent the couplers from mating right.

https://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49219&title=2012-san-210-pcm-40-to-80-series-transmission-swap" rel="nofollow - https://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49219&title=2012-san-210-pcm-40-to-80-series-transmission-swap