Winterizing...
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49282
Printed Date: November-13-2024 at 9:48pm
Topic: Winterizing...
Posted By: ultrarunner
Subject: Winterizing...
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 9:00am
Pains me to even think about it...
Oh well....
Anyway, are most folks fogging the cylinders or just draining the water and running 50/50 antifreeze through, then just plugging the raw water inlet?
Thanks,
Mark
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Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 9:07am
Are most folks psychic and can figure out what kind of engine you're talking about?
50 /50 mix of what kind of antifreeze?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 10:34am
ultrarunner wrote:
Pains me to even think about it...
Oh well....
Anyway, are most folks fogging the cylinders or just draining the water and running 50/50 antifreeze through, then just plugging the raw water inlet?
Thanks,
Mark |
Mark, You joined CCfan 15 years ago. Is winterizing something new for you?
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 11:25am
Ha! Good catch Peter. First time I’m doing a boat that won’t be toasty warm during the winter:-(
Don’t think for a second I’m still not trying to figure out getting the boat in my garage! Side load provides a challenge.
GT-40
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 12:17pm
ultrarunner wrote:
I’m still not trying to figure out getting the boat in my garage! Side load provides a challenge. |
When getting a trailer into a tight spot, this really helps:
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 12:22pm
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 9:34pm
Pete what is that ? A strap on on the lesmobile ?
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 9:45pm
Just wait until he puts the Paragon on there....
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: September-27-2020 at 10:02pm
I did get these little guys:-)
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 6:04am
Mark, Careful with the type of valve you use. You need one tthat you can still get a piece of wire through it and into the block to probe the hole for sediment. Those do look like you can but with a reduced port size. I've been using these for years and have recommended them several times. The complete stem removes so it's full port for the wire for probing. I even see they are now offered at some marine suppies for block drains.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 6:05am
gun-driver wrote:
Pete what is that ? A strap on on the lesmobile ? |
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Fast351
Date Posted: October-01-2020 at 5:33pm
This works good for a GT40 powered boat. Mine's an 01.
1) Warm up engine 2) Change oil (Rotella T 15/40 + Motorcraft FL1A) 3) Drain all water out of block. There are 5 plugs to undo 4) Put plugs back in, use teflon tape 5) Remove raw water intake hose from transmission cooler, plug in 5 gallon bucket with bottom hose 6) put in 4 gallons of RV antifreeze (do not dilute), start boat 7) put 5th gallon in bucket when boat has consumed a gallon, it will go fast 8) shut off boat when last of RV antifreeze is consumed. It should just be starting to come out the exhaust
ETA: (DON'T FORGET THIS ONE! Empty out raw water strainer and reassemble)
That is it. I don't fog because the engine won't be sitting long enough for it to be an issue. Same with impeller, which I change every other year or 100 hours, whichever comes first. Transmission fluid in the summer, it's much easier with the boat sitting on the water. Stabil when I remember it, but I run the boat down around 1/8th tank most of the time anyway, so I just dump in 3/4 tank of fresh premium in the spring before launch.
------------- 2001 Ski Nautique 196 2007 Air Nautique 211 TE
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-01-2020 at 6:08pm
I never used teflon tape on drain plugs, seems unnecessary to me. Pouring in the A/F works too.
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-01-2020 at 6:50pm
SNobsessed wrote:
I never used teflon tape on drain plugs, seems unnecessary to me. |
I don't ether since all my drains have stop cocks in them.
SNobsessed wrote:
Pouring in the A/F works too. |
Pour in works for me. No messing around with buckets. I gal. is plenty as a just in case for low spots. Any more than 1 is a waste since it does nothing. RV anti contains no corrosion inhibitors.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-01-2020 at 7:18pm
Hang on Fast351, 48 more people are lining up to tell you why in their opinion their method is better
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Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: October-01-2020 at 7:36pm
Where are the starboard side plugs hiding?
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-01-2020 at 7:47pm
ultrarunner wrote:
Where are the starboard side plugs hiding? |
Look down from the #1 spark plug
Not knowing if you have a heater or shower, there might be a fitting with a hose screwed into the drain hole to cleverly camouflage the drain hole
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-01-2020 at 7:48pm
ultrarunner wrote:
Where are the starboard side plugs hiding? |
In the block there's only one on the starboard side. Forward near the RWP or alternator depending on who mainized the engine.On Fords, near the #1 cylinder.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: DockDoc
Date Posted: October-01-2020 at 8:45pm
I personally fog the cylinders / carb because... why not, it's cheap and seems generally recommended.
I also follow the manual's recommendation and loosen up the belts, remove the impeller, etc.
------------- 1993 Sport Nautique PCM 351w, no ProTec
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Posted By: Fast351
Date Posted: October-02-2020 at 8:06am
KENO wrote:
Hang on Fast351, 48 more people are lining up to tell you why in their opinion their method is better |
Oh yeah, I was expecting it. More than one way to do it. Doesn't bother me. I know my way works and it goes pretty quick. I don't begrudge other people doing it other ways though :)
------------- 2001 Ski Nautique 196 2007 Air Nautique 211 TE
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Posted By: JHadji
Date Posted: October-02-2020 at 2:30pm
I just winterized the blue tiger as well. This year, I'm taking her underground to a limestone mine that was converted for storage of boats, RVs, etc. Kind of a neat idea. It's constant temperature, so I probably didn't have to do more than fog and loosen the belts, but I did the full monte of habit.
I'm curious, do you guys change the oil again in the spring with a fresh batch (VR1) or just once in the fall?
------------- 1988SkiNautique2001
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-02-2020 at 3:31pm
JHadji wrote:
I'm curious, do you guys change the oil again in the spring with a fresh batch (VR1) or just once in the fall? |
No and here's some info on if oil goes bad by just sitting in an engne:
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/47920/does-engine-oil-get-old-and-go-bad" rel="nofollow - https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/47920/does-engine-oil-get-old-and-go-bad
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: October-02-2020 at 3:55pm
In the dry climate where I live (Utah) I change the oil and filter as part of my winter layup routine. (Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature first). Not a lot of opportunity for moisture in the air to find its way into the crankcase. In the spring, re-commissioning goes quickly...
JQ
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited
Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow
Aqua skiing, ergo sum
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Posted By: DockDoc
Date Posted: October-02-2020 at 5:00pm
JHadji wrote:
I'm curious, do you guys change the oil again in the spring with a fresh batch (VR1) or just once in the fall?
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Hell no. VR1 is expensive! Once in the fall, that's it.
------------- 1993 Sport Nautique PCM 351w, no ProTec
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Posted By: frozenskier
Date Posted: October-06-2020 at 2:10pm
Slight drift here, back to putting boat in garage. Does anyone know the height of the top of the windshield of a 2009 196 sitting on the trailer. I have a garage available for the first time and the opening is 81"s high. I've never had to worry about this before so I want to know the height before I commit. Boat is in water now and don't want to pull it out just to get measurement. Thanks, anyone?
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Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: October-06-2020 at 3:35pm
It’s lower than I thought. My 1996 SN, sitting on the Prestige trailer is 67” to top of windshield frame. Ground to top of bunks is 22”.
You should be fine unless you’re sitting way up on the trailer.
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Posted By: burban65
Date Posted: October-06-2020 at 9:50pm
Keno......I will take the under on your 48 more inputs..........now in another few weeks we may get to that number. Question for the group - if one never uses the shower on the boats with the shower option does it still need to be part of the winterization? I am new to the shower scene.......well you guys know what I mean.
------------- SRB
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Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: October-06-2020 at 11:12pm
Yes to winterizing the shower as the hot/cold water hoses have water in them even thought the pump wasn’t activated. It only takes a couple of minutes to drain the system. I’ve had heater and shower on my boat since 1997. Only had one shower issue, the plastic manifold at the mixer cracked after a particularly cold winter. Easy fix, it was a heatercraft if I’m not mistaken. Heaters have leaked after 4-5 years likely due to delicate cores and pounding caused by rough water on occasion.
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Posted By: frozenskier
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 12:59pm
another winterizing question. For a heater it is really a pain to get the hoses disconnected from the block to blow them out before adding anti freeze. Seems it would be easier if there is some type of fitting to put in the lines where they are more accessible? Ideas? Maybe there is a thread on this topic? Pictures?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 1:06pm
Stick this in the end of one of the hoses running up to the heater core:
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 1:16pm
Consider splicing in higher quality nylon, or brass garden hose ends, either at the engine, or the heater, makes for quick disconnects and purges.
Reverse the directions of the m/f. this way if the heater core ever pukes hard, three minutes you are on your way after connecting the hoses together.
I winterize with a shop vac, One hose clamp at the engine, it pulls the water out of the heater core and lines, then pour a quart of af in.
it also catches all the drains, so don't have a bilge of water and rust/sediment.
------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 1:40pm
ultrarunner wrote:
Don’t think for a second I’m still not trying to figure out getting the boat in my garage! Side load provides a challenge.
GT-40 |
I use a product called Auto Dolly by Merriick Machine. They work great to move the boat into tight spaces. I use a floor jack and pick up one side of the trailer. Then I slide one Auto Dolly under each tire and lower the trailer. Repeat for the other side. Once the Auto Dollies are in place, the boat can be positioned where wanted. A good smooth and level floor helps. The Merrick Machine units have heavy duty casters that roll well.
https://www.amazon.com/Merrick-Machine-MERM998002-Auto-Dolly/dp/B005B7A0Z2" rel="nofollow - Link to Auto Dollies
JQ
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited
Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow
Aqua skiing, ergo sum
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Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 2:55pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
Mark,Careful with the type of valve you use. You need one tthat you can still get a piece of wire through it and into the block to probe the hole for sediment. Those do look like you can but with a reduced port size. I've been using these for years and have recommended them several times. The complete stem removes so it's full port for the wire for probing. I even see they are now offered at some marine suppies for block drains.
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Installed those a few years ago. They work great!
McMaster-Carr: PN 4921K2 https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/483/" rel="nofollow - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/483/
------------- 92 SN - Owned since 93 99 Pro Air 89 SN - Went to live on a lake in Texas 75 Donzi 16 - Sold in 93
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Posted By: frozenskier
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 4:49pm
GottaSki wrote:
Consider splicing in higher quality nylon, or brass garden hose ends, either at the engine, or the heater, makes for quick disconnects and purges.
Reverse the directions of the m/f. this way if the heater core ever pukes hard, three minutes you are on your way after connecting the hoses together.
I winterize with a shop vac, One hose clamp at the engine, it pulls the water out of the heater core and lines, then pour a quart of af in.
it also catches all the drains, so don't have a bilge of water and rust/sediment. |
Ok that sounds like it will work. Maybe I'm not understanding you, I think if I splice in anywhere it would be in the middle of the hose that is accessible so I can get to it easily. Reversing the m/f ends makes sense in the event of a core failure.
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Posted By: Fast351
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 5:59pm
I might have to get some of those 1/4" NPT ball valves. Those look like the hot ticket for fall when I drain the block a handful of times for freeze protection before winterizing.
------------- 2001 Ski Nautique 196 2007 Air Nautique 211 TE
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 6:16pm
frozenskier wrote:
GottaSki wrote:
Consider splicing in higher quality nylon, or brass garden hose ends, either at the engine, or the heater, makes for quick disconnects and purges.
Reverse the directions of the m/f. this way if the heater core ever pukes hard, three minutes you are on your way after connecting the hoses together.
I winterize with a shop vac, One hose clamp at the engine, it pulls the water out of the heater core and lines, then pour a quart of af in.
it also catches all the drains, so don't have a bilge of water and rust/sediment. |
Ok that sounds like it will work. Maybe I'm not understanding you, I think if I splice in anywhere it would be in the middle of the hose that is accessible so I can get to it easily. Reversing the m/f ends makes sense in the event of a core failure. |
Indeed, accessibility is key
------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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Posted By: rebel skier
Date Posted: October-08-2020 at 3:53pm
Do you guys put the McMaster-Carr: PN 4921K2 on the elbow to the side of the water pump too? Is there enough clearance (85 351 pcm)?
------------- Hotty Toddy lets go skiing!
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Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: October-09-2020 at 2:16am
I am in the UK. I assume these would also work?
Sorry for jumping in!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-Inch-NPT-Brass-Drain-Valve-Air-Compressor-Tank-Replacement-UK-Store-/233729121690" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-Inch-NPT-Brass-Drain-Valve-Air-Compressor-Tank-Replacement-UK-Store-/233729121690
------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...
2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31
www.bannrivercruises.co.uk
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-09-2020 at 5:20am
2001SAN wrote:
I am in the UK. I assume these would also work?
Sorry for jumping in!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-Inch-NPT-Brass-Drain-Valve-Air-Compressor-Tank-Replacement-UK-Store-/233729121690" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-Inch-NPT-Brass-Drain-Valve-Air-Compressor-Tank-Replacement-UK-Store-/233729121690
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Darren, They look good. The key is the stem is removable so you can use a piece of wire to probe the drain hole for sediment.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: October-11-2020 at 2:08pm
Cool. I will treat myself then!
Cheers Pete.
D.
------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...
2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31
www.bannrivercruises.co.uk
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-11-2020 at 2:29pm
I can't stress enough the importance of being able to probe the drain holes for anything that may plug them up. I just got done winterizing my 312 and both block drains and both manifold drains were plugged until I got the wire in them. The only drain that wasn't plugged was the one on the bottom of the RWP!
Gary, Please note I'm late this year! I could hold off for several weeks but those below 40 degree days are getting rough on the hands.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-11-2020 at 4:36pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
Gary, Please note I'm late this year! I could hold off for several weeks but those below 40 degree days are getting rough on the hands. |
You were just hoping that with all the global warming you'd get a bonus boating day
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: October-11-2020 at 5:06pm
For those pouring in the A/F from above the impeller, are you putting a 90 on this fitting, so you don't make a mess trying to use a funnel and hose on this side-facing opening?
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Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: October-11-2020 at 6:17pm
Oppps, disregard. That's an additional drain and soap-inlet for the impeller come spring time. We're pouring in from the outlet of the RWP ;-) Easy-Peasy
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Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: October-12-2020 at 2:30pm
Hummm... I always fog engines going into layup... regardless of the temp it will be held at unless you will be turning it over every week or so to get oil on cylinder walls walls etc.
If you have a way of collecting the antifreeze and collecting/recycling easy if you are on a trailer... I just use regular glycol antifreeze... has anti corrosion properties and mixes with water. a pair of 5 gallon buckets and a lid and you can use the same batch for years... even storing in heated garage... peace of mind. Just make sure you cap your bucket if you have animals around!
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-12-2020 at 5:41pm
AAM196 wrote:
and you can use the same batch for years... |
Do you recheck concentration?
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: October-12-2020 at 6:16pm
Not really... I do spike it a bit on the 2nd or third use.. I recycle it after that and start fresh. That being said, It resides in a heated garage. Having a helper makes job pretty easy.
Having single exhaust also helps with the collection..
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