2005 SAN V-drive / Transmission removal
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49285
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 10:12pm
Topic: 2005 SAN V-drive / Transmission removal
Posted By: Brucem
Subject: 2005 SAN V-drive / Transmission removal
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 3:21pm
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First time poster. I have a 2005 Super Air Nautique that I’ve owned for 14 years. I just lost forward in my transmission this past weekend (just over a 1000 hours). It happened fairly quickly. Transmission made a slight screeching sound, then started slipping. I was able to limp back to the houseboat, but lost it completely when while trying to limp back to the dock. I’m now trying to remove the v-drive to get to the transmission and have a question I thought someone here might be able to help answer. I’ve removed the gas tank and disconnected the shaft coupler from the v-drive, but I’m wondering the correct way to remove the v-drive mounts. Is unbolt the 4 mounts from the frame and pulling the mounts with the v-drive the best approach (see image below)? Also besides the 6 bolts connecting the v-drive to the transmission do I need to remove the 4 internal nuts as shown in the picture below? I saw a similar thread from a newer boat but the v-drive appears significantly different. Thanks in advance for any advice. Bruce   |
Replies:
Posted By: Brucem
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 12:51am
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As usual, it turned out much more difficult than a normal removal. The bottom bolt of the six was rusted to a round nub. In the end I had to completely remove the v-drive mounts to have enough room to cut the nut off. The internal bolts mentioned in the previous post didn't need to be removed. Since the v-drive slides off the shaft at an angle on my 2005 SAN I believe if one was going to reuse the mounts removing the mounting bolts as shown in the previous post and then removing the mounts from the v-drive would be the best method to minimize the amount of realignment that will be required. I’ll be sending the v-drive off to Walter’s Machine Co. for hopefully a proper rebuild. Mine weighs 99lbs as a point of reference. Next I need to figure out the proper method to support the rear of the engine while removing the transmission... Bruce   |
Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 8:26am
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If you have the facility it might be a better option to pull the motor and transmission as a unit. Fighting with the transmission to get it off and on in the boat could be a bear. Something to consider. ------------- '92 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Brucem
Date Posted: October-07-2020 at 4:05pm
| I also need to address the motor mounts so this might be a much easier approach. Thanks for the suggestion. |
Posted By: FFImarine
Date Posted: October-16-2020 at 11:53am
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If you don’t haven’t picked a place to rebuild it give us a call we offer a 1 year unlimited hour warranty 330-273-8291 names Joe ------------- You break it I’ll fix it |
Posted By: Brucem
Date Posted: November-30-2020 at 4:54pm
As a follow up post I ended up pulling the engine, and just couldn't stop there. I'm headed for a full restoration. Flooring, upholstery, gel coat restore,... Debating on upgrading to the 80 transmission instead of a rebuild. The aluminum frame had some corrosion so I'm working on that too. My giant row boat is sitting in the driveway now.  |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: December-01-2020 at 4:26pm
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Up date to the new series 80 transmission. Buy the kit it comes with new drive plate,new cooler, new hoses and adapting hardware and fasteners. Series 40 transmissions no longer are supported by PCM. you can get seals and plates however no more replacement drums. most common failure on the 40 is drum crack and reverse retainer failure. I went through 4 series 40 123:1 to find a doner drum ......no bueno! ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: Brucem
Date Posted: December-02-2020 at 5:50pm
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Thanks for the recommendation. I’ve been looking at the 80 kit from skidim.com. Crazy question. I sent my Walter v-drive for a rebuild and the quote came back at $2k. That’s pretty close to the cost of a new PCM v-drive. Since I’m basically replacing both the trans and the v-drive would it be crazy to consider swapping to this configuration? I’d need a new shaft and mounting h/w, and there are probably other gotchas. I dislike the coupling under the v-drive especially for alignment, and that’s really the only reason I’m even considering this. Is the PCM v-drive better than the Walter's in any noticeable ways, or is this just foolishness fraught with problems? Bruce
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-02-2020 at 9:05pm
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That would be a great question for Jody,he's got more experience with them than anyone here . I have wondered if the PCM is quieter as well, mine seeming makes alot of gear whine. Or if your brave post it here on this thread- Sure Is Quiet In Here...Do I need To Start A Fight, PCM Vs Walter ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: FFImarine
Date Posted: December-02-2020 at 11:54pm
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We are currently at around $1,500 for a Walter rebuild, as for the difference between is they are both just a set of gears reversing shaft rotation. One relies on gear movement to lubricate (P.C.M) and the other uses an oil pump (Walter). Walters are great v-drives but there pricey to rebuild since you have to get everything from Walter ------------- You break it I’ll fix it |