thanks    Glenn  in Fresno 

Great for new engines designed for the 0-40 but NOT good for your 95. Follow the advice above. Do a search on ZDDP to learn more concerning flat tappet engines. Yes, as Gary mentioned, get that 0-40 out before you damage the engine. 

I run 15-40w Diesel oil, Castrol, Delo or Rotella brand.  They still have the ability to protect your old school lifters and camshaft and it is cheap to buy and works well.

Chris,

Yes, but if I remember correctly, yours was a ZDDP issue. Glenn's is a ZDDP AND a oil weight issue. 

Chris,

It really wasn't memory but more intuition. I thought to myself, with Chris's mechanical skills, there's no way he would be putting 0 weight oil in his Nautique!! 

I think a little more information would be good here.

During that minute or so of no oil pressure, does the engine sound like an old Singer sewing machine, with all kinds of clickety clack lifter noises or is is normal sounding?

Did you have it running before the oil change so you know what pressure was with the old oil?

Your test gauge will tell you a lot when you run it with that hooked up.

Somehow I don't think 0W-40 oil will give you no oil pressure for a minute, then magically go up to 30 #.

If it really is zero with the mechanical gauge, then you have other problems.

Plenty of people recommending oils which would be good to use after the problem is fixed

Somebody will probably come along and tell you that duct taping the pieces together makes about as much sense as those guys that stick a plastic tube in their PCM transmission to pump out the oil.

Sometimes it works great, sometimes the results aren't pretty at all

You can sacrifice the socket and extension and get them tack welded together or spend 10 or 15 bucks on a priming tool.

Somebody else will probably come along and throw out the reminder that on a 351 Ford, you need to run the drill backwards.

I think I'd listen to those "somebodies" 

I  am like  to learn  and  tinker, but is  this  over my  head.    Any  Help    would  be   much  appreciated .    

I'm a little unsure if you just put in a new sending unit and had these issues or had the issues and then put in a new sending unit.

Do you still have low pressure indicated on the dash gauge?

 had the issue prior  and  thought it  was  sending unit  due  to  age . 

the  oil  pressure   gauge   is  slow   to   get  pressure.  

I  also  changed  temp sending   unit .      it  is  also   slow  to  get   up  even   with  engine  running.    

It  has  to  be   in the   wiring ?    

any  suggestions .   thank  You    

The temp gauge being slow needs a little better description too .It's always kinda slow since the water has to heat up. Assuming you have a good, functioning thermostat, it should take at least a few minutes to be near normal temp after you start the engine from cold conditions.

Or do you mean that you have the boat running with normal oil pressure and water temperature indications and you turn it off then start it again right away and the dash gauges are slow to respond?

But.......if you're convinced you have wiring issues check the grounds first since grounds can make things happen that are next to impossible to give a logical explanation for. 

Crazy wacked out trailer lights that have a mind of their own are a good example of "bad grounds" 

That would be the gauge grounds under the dash and each of your sending units grounds itself to the block through the threads.

Some people say that they have to be installed with no thread sealer of any kind, others will use a small amount of sealer with no issues