I agree with Brent. Same RV stuff used by many of us. 

Camco can confuse you to death with their different anti freezes

They have 

Freeze Ban minus 50

Arctic Ban minus 50

Winter Ban minus 100 

and a few others too

Their brochure in the link says that the Freeze Ban minus 50 has been used for more than 50 years for winterizing boats (last question in the FAQ's on page 6)

http://www.camco.net/medias/winterizeRV.pdf" rel="nofollow - link

The Freeze Ban minus 50 is propylene glycol based and the Arctic Ban minus 50 that you're looking at is ethyl alcohol based stuff.

You can find all kinds of discussion about the 2 different kinds but in the end, if you drain the engine first, whatever minus 50 RV antifreeze you use will work for you.

Now being kinda cheap, I'd say why not head for Wal Mart and spend less than 3 bucks a gallon on their SuperTech Marine and RV Antifreeze in the link below? 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-RV-Marine-Antifreeze/17179674?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=1907&&adid=22222222227025377838&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80432716009&wl4=pla-177673639729&wl5=1021979&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=17179674&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQiAifz-BRDjARIsAEElyGLsJXSA2hpM9lpFMKU2NxtZr6w9D6a6aiwPGbdlaykFcZsH5JjAn_AaAn9uEALw_wcB" rel="nofollow - link

Lots of RV/Marine Antifreeze doesn't have specific words saying to use in your engine for winterizing, just words like "for use in boats" but it's been used by lots of people for lots of years in their engines

Since you're in North Carolina, it seems many people down there don't drain first and just suck in 5 gallons of RV stuff

It might work for them, but if you drain first, then do whatever method you decided on, it's really pretty hard to screw up when those record cold temps decide to make a visit.

The engine would turn over, but would not fire.  Carb was rebuilt last season, new spark plugs, new ignition coil, and ran good last season and this season.  Hadn't been able to run the boat since August (sadly) so it sat for a few months.  Had the battery on my trickle charger so it should have been charged up.  

Also, and what I feel like is the best info I can go off, is that there was no spark from the ignition coil wire.  I'd read a few topics on how to test the coil for a spark and I tried using the wire from the ignition held near bare metal and there was no arcing. 

If you can't tell from this post, or any others of mine that you may have seen, I'm certainly no mechanic.  Bought the Nautique to try to learn and understand some basics, but anything to advanced I use a mechanic.  His shop is shut down until after new years though. 

If I can't get the boat to start, is there any value to just pouring some of the antifreeze into the water hose, thermostat hose, etc?  Or nah? 

 

If you can't get the engine running and still need to winterize, it can be done. Just as Chris mentioned, your engine can be winterized using the engine manual method. The engine is drained and then the AF is poured in via one of the hoses running to the T stat housing. Fogging is done by spraying into each cylinder via the removed spark plug and then cranked over a few times to spread the fogging oil in the cylinders. I always pour and when I don't want to run the engine I do spray fog via the plug holes. 

Plus 1.

Brad,

if you are worried about the temp dropping, then the freeze protection is key. Also, keep in mind a drain only without AF is an option as well. Done for many years and still some use the option. I didn't add AF until maybe 25 years ago. BTW, I also use only a gal. of AF in each engine just to get any low spots. 

The exhaust manifolds are typically the first to freeze up. They need to be drained. Do the plugs have a square recess in them? If so, then the typical tool to use is a 1/2" drive ratchet. How cold are you expecting the temp to drop in the next several days? It does take a few days of below freeezing to get to the engine. A drop light with a 60 watt incandescent bulb in the dog house will keep things warm. 

The drama continues though...I got wondering if the points might have corroded a bit, so I cleaned them up some and replaced the disty cap and tried turning the engine over and it cranked, still no fire...BUT...then it continued to crank even after I'd moved the key back to the run position.  it kept cranking...and cranking...on its own.  I removed the key...still cranked.  I turned off the ignition switch on the dash...still cranked.  It cranked for maybe 2 min until it slowed and finally stopped.  I should say it was a pretty slow crank.  

Not sure if that maybe helps with what might be startup issue, but figured I'd put it out there.  

As far as the weather...I'm around Lake Norman (Mooresville NC).  It won't get terribly cold over the winter but we will have a week or two where we'll have night time temps in the 20s and daytime wont barely get above 32.  But it's pretty short lived. 

Wondering if it'd just be best at this point to drain it as best I can of all water (including exhaust manifolds) and then just pour in some AF in through the thermostat hose and raw water hose.  Will probably have to get my mechanic involved.  I feel I'm getting over my head at this point on the startup issues. 

If you want to drain the exhaust manifolds and you can't get the plugs out at the back of the manifolds, which seems to be your situation right now, there's a relatively easy solution.

Your boat is a 1990 Sport Nautique......the engine sits relatively level, so if you pull the hoses off the inlet to each manifold and remove the 90 degree fitting on each manifold, and lower the front of the trailer as far down as you can, you'll be draining the manifolds.and you'll drain as much water out as you would by taking out the rear plugs.

Those rear ones with a recessed 1/2 inch square drive are usually cast iron and if they haven't been out in who knows how long, they can be a real bear.

The 90 degree fittings on the front are probably brass or could be nylon, but they don't rust and should be easier to get out. (with your luck so far though, ya never know }

By the way, the easiest way to drain the transmission cooler is by taking the hose from the cooler to the raw water pump off at the pump suction and making sure it's lower than the cooler and the cooler will drain. The cooler is a little delicate and the less you screw with the hose at the cooler or the little drain plug on the cooler, the better off you are.

Then you can take it to your mechanic when he reopens if you're not feeling too confident about getting it all straightened out yourself

The NAPA part number is the same as the Sierra part number

Points 18-5303

Condenser 18-5347

Rotor   18-5403

Cap   18-5352

You can also get the solenoid at NAPA with the number in your link above  18-5815

If you're going to Advance or Autozone, they could maybe do some cross referencing to the Sierra numbers

No, a starter that continues to crank the engine wouldn't cause the no start. More likely is your idea of corroded contact faces on the point set. Runing a fine file or abrasive paper through closed points will clear that up.

The cause of the running starter is a start relay (some call it a solenoid) with it's contacts welded together which allows current to continuously flow to the starter. The  cause of the welded contacts is a weak, bad or wrong type of battery. You trying to start the engine could have run the battery down. Using a deep cycle battery rather than a starting type is another cause. You have mentioned using a "trickle" charger and these can also damage a battery. A charger that is continuously connected must be a type that ether shuts off when the battery is fully charged or have precise regulation of current to the battery. These are typically labled as "maintainers"  

Chris mentioned the Ohms of the relay coil. He's a little off as getting a Ohm reading of the coil will not check for welded contacts. If you do want to check the relay, you would get an Ohm reading across the two big posts where the big cables are connected. If you get a low near zero Ohm reading, then the contacts are welded together. If you don't, the contacts may have opened up but, get a new start relay anyway. Check the battery too. You can take it in for a load test at one of the auto supplies and remember, you do NOT want a deep cycle battey. 

Brad,

Get it load tested.

If it doesn't test good and you decide to get another battery, there's no need to get a "marine" battery. All that basically gives you are terminal studs besides the normal lug type posts. A automotive starting works and you don't pay the extra for "marine". 

Once you get the engine in a condition where Mother Nature won't damage it, then you can relax for the holidays and do some searching/reading about ignition systems here on CCF.

Earlier you asked about a coil and SNobsessed told you to check it's resistance, it should have a primary resistance of about 1.5 ohms and a secondary resistance of about 8000 or so ohms.

For some reason, I get the feeling that Advance is your favorite parts place and you probably are a SpeedPerks member and then you do computer orders with a 25% off coupon to save some money 

If you need a coil, a BWD E70 from Advance is a good choice, and also tucked away in the ignition circuit is a ballast resistor that could be bad and causing no spark. A good number for that would be a BWD RU-12 at Advance also. (it's about 1.3 ohms resistance)

And now for one more 2 part question..............do you have a safety lanyard on the boat and is it plugged in? 

I'd hate to have the "no spark" be due to a lanyard that's not plugged in or defective 

And........if you want a good diagram of your wiring and ignition setup here's the ever useful TRBenj simplified diagram that's good for your 1990.

It doesn't show a safety lanyard, but it's in the purple wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor and if unplugged or defective, it will let the engine crank over, but you'll have no spark

Sorry Chris. Without a description of the coil and your not starting a new paragraph, I made the mistake of thinking you were speaking of the coil in the start relay. My mistake as I now understand you were referencing the ignition coil.

Brad, 

Chris is talking about the ignition coil and the Ohm reading to check it was posted by Ken. 

It's time to move on this idea 

bdillard wrote:  Sounding like I need to buy me a multimeter and check some of the readings

A basic VOM can be had for around $20. Great tool that's handy around the house and car too. 

If your battery is going dead during short term storage, it is either at end of life or you have a parasitic draw.

Certainly get the battery tested. 

If OK, then check for a draw using amp function on multimeter - connect in series between battery terminal & unhooked cable without anything turned on.  Should read zero.

Brad,

Plus 1 for checking for a parasitic draw. You should not have to keep that battery maitainer hooked up. I've laid up my boats all winter for years without any charging and come spring no problems. 

There are some good youtube videos on how to perform the parasitic test. 

That's great you have some inside storage for a while.  Are you holding off on winterizing completely because you want to get it running first?  Would be nice to get your problems sorted out now so you can just fire up in the spring.

If you are installing new ignition parts including points, you'll want/need to adjust points and check timing on the engine once you get it started.  That's another thing that I'm guessing one of the guys there could help you with.  And if you are working on the distributor take a look at the advance mechanism, should be clean and shiny and work easily, all springs in place.

Brad,

Fantastic opportunity to pick up some basics. Have them fill you in on what the tests are doing. Keep your eyes and ears open and even do some of the tests yourself while they direct you.