Damage A.R.E coupling :-(
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49566
Printed Date: January-16-2025 at 6:51am
Topic: Damage A.R.E coupling :-(
Posted By: ultrarunner
Subject: Damage A.R.E coupling :-(
Date Posted: January-19-2021 at 3:51pm
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Anyone have any customer feed back from SkiDim and Elbert's? Fired them both off an email with the same pics, asking to have another coupling shipped. Haven't heard back from either, yet. Box was undamaged. A QC slip, obviously. Disappointing at this price point :-(
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Replies:
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-19-2021 at 4:14pm
| I find both are excellent to deal with. |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: January-19-2021 at 5:55pm
| Cecil responded within a couple of hours and sent one right out. That's some good service, allright. |
Posted By: ifishok
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 1:29pm
| Question about this, I’ve seen videos on how to remove the coupler, but nothing on installing the coupler. Can someone please explain the process? |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 1:59pm
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Hi Stacy, Ron Tanis has a good video here which explains it. Both for a traditional coupling and the dual-taper shaft coupling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-FNPI9wQUQ" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-FNPI9wQUQ
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Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 5:10pm
File it off. Make sure the face is filed flat around the affected area. Won't hurt it at all.. The diameter is a non functioning surface. I can fix it to where nobody will ever be able to detect it. Let me know if I can assist. Duane ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 6:27pm
I must say.........lots of good info in that linked video, but I must also say.......I can't find the part where he talks about coupling installation for either a tapered shaft coupling or the dreaded interference fit straight shaft
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ultrarunner wrote:Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 6:32pm
| Ha, I’m with Duane. If the mating surface was proud I’d also file it down, bolt it up and move on... |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 6:44pm
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Regarding the gouge in my coupling, i agree with you both. Filed out many nicks line that on aircraft pros. It was just my mild OCD with installing a brand new one like that. Brand new one on the way and I’ll now have a spare:-) Stacy, did you watch from about 4:30 into Ron’s video? He clearly discusses the removal of both styles of couplers. Install of the tapered is opposite of its removal. Now, on the install for the old style, you have to bake it in an oven. Plenty good info here on that, as well as YT. Mark |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 6:46pm
Yes, I too would have gone for the file. I highly doubt many would notice a ding in a coupling. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ifishok
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 6:51pm
| Thanks for the video link, I’ve seen those and they provide great information. But how would a fella go about getting the coupler back on? I haven’t found one on the installation of the coupler yet. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 6:57pm
On an interference fit (single taper shaft), the coupling is heated. This expands the bore so the coupling will slip onto the shaft. When it cools down, the coupling is then "locked" onto the shaft. With a double taper shaft, the coupling is drawn onto the taper with a nut that's threaded onto the shaft just like a prop is installed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 6:57pm
But your paying list it should be perfect. Now if they were willing to knock off a few bucks.... I just got these this fall and found a flaw in the casting. I paid full price didn't feel it was up to me to run around and pay to fix it to make it work. I got a return label and they sent another. Now if these were unobtainable parts that would be a different story but their not,this isn't China ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 7:53pm
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Pete likes challenges and math. ( I'm too lazy to get my old books out for the formulas) Have him figure the temperatures to use. Heat the coupling and freeze the shaft. He will figure the coefficient of expansion for the metals and let you know what it takes to slip them together. Not a lot of time to fool around though. That is why they are called " shrink fits". ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 7:58pm
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Gary I agree that the part should have been right when you bought it. But, is that surface not gasketed? If so then probably won't leak. Not an issue since they replaced it anyway. Just commenting. Duane ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 7:58pm
If you're talking about an interference fit coupling,,you won't find much video of putting the coupling back on because you'd be watching grown men crying, swearing and throwing things when they didn't get it on right the first time and had to go thru the removall process and start all over again. 500 degrees or so in the grill for at least an hour gets the coupling bore expanded enough to slide onto the shaft especially if you've cooled the shaft with something like dry ice while the coupling is getting heated up. The less time from grill to slipping it on the shaft, the better off you are A hefty pair of insulated gloves come in real handy I've put a split collar on the shaft so the coupling can butt up against the collar when it's in the right position. You can't accidentally put it on too far with the collar in place. I usually cook a hot dog or two or some other delicacy while I'm heating up the coupling
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 7:58pm
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Here's the formula for the heat shrink: https://www.inductionheating.jp/pdf/shrinkfit_calcs.pdf" rel="nofollow - ShrinkFitCalcs (inductionheating.jp) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 8:00pm
See, what did I tell ya. Thanks Pete. Duane  ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 8:01pm
And another split collar on the shaft against the packing gland nut so the shaft doesn't slip aft while your trying to get the coupling on. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 8:12pm
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Good thing enough here don’t need to convert to the A.R.E shaft, or we would not have such an entertaining thread;-) So yes, I could've easily dressed out the existing gouge in the coupling and I would have been fine. Truth be told it could have been installed as is and no one would've been the wiser. It was the OCD in me that couldn't come to grips with installing a brand new unit with a gouge in it that's all. And the manufacture was more than happy to ship me new one. Ultra... |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 8:19pm
What..........you don't have a collar near the gland nut all the time in case your shaft breaks or frets it's way out of the coupling? I'm just plain shocked |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-20-2021 at 9:31pm
I understand. These are going to end up on my saltwater boat and it seems that this joint is the weak spot even on fresh water boats. We have all seen the pictures of rust streaks there. I was in no hurry and like I said your not getting these cheap. I had bought them from Skidim since they were the only ones who had them in stock at the time so I complained. What else does a retiree have to do,I had already chased the kids off the lawn and I'm not going to win any arguments in the house They in turn contacted PCM and they said don't use it we will send another. They paid to ship both ways so I did it.------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-21-2021 at 6:36am
If you want some reading, click on the link below. It talks about removal and installation http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25700&PN=1&title=coupler-removal-and-install" rel="nofollow - link
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-21-2021 at 6:45am
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The damage on that gasket surface that extends from water passage to the riser bolt would have had me calling for a replacement too, Gary. The ding on the radius of the coupler? I don’t even see a need for a file- the mating surface looks fine to me. I’d have bolted that right up. |
Posted By: ifishok
Date Posted: January-21-2021 at 8:34pm
| Thanks again for the information and the link, I’m glad I didn’t remove the coupler. |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: January-21-2021 at 8:50pm
Only a couple reasons to remove it...cutlass bearing change with the subsequent shaft removal, shaft alignment or transmission maint. requiring its removal.
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