Wiring diagram '68 Mustang
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49582
Printed Date: November-26-2024 at 7:46pm
Topic: Wiring diagram '68 Mustang
Posted By: Got Tiques
Subject: Wiring diagram '68 Mustang
Date Posted: January-26-2021 at 4:25pm
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Restoring a '68 Mustang including wiring from motor to dash panel including gages, lights, blower, bilge pump, and tach. Does anyone have info/knowledge Orr schematic? Thanks, Todd ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4811" rel="nofollow - '78 Ski Tique |
Replies:
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: January-27-2021 at 8:30am
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Todd, This was buried in the site somewhere, supposedly associated with a 68 Torino. Couldnt be too far off, could it?  ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Got Tiques
Date Posted: January-27-2021 at 3:16pm
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Larry, thanks for the diagram. You've confirmed that I still haven't seen a diagram for the earlier Mustang's tach and gage panel yet. I think what you sent is one generation newer than what I need. My mustang and my brother's didn't use the wire color standards in the Torino diagram and newer boats, but are electrically similar except for a device between the ignition switch run terminal and the fuel, temp, and pressure gages. I don't know if the device, about 1-1/2" x 3/4" x 1/2" , is a voltage transformer, thermal overload, fuse, or diode. It's mostly metal, with 2 terminals and no identifying numbers. I'm not getting voltage on the output side,but still could be some terminal corrosion that I'm working on. Any insight or diagnostic techniques would be helpful of if any other Mustang owners have sorted this out, iwould appreciate it. Again,thanks for your help. Todd ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4811" rel="nofollow - '78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-27-2021 at 3:49pm
Is this an Interceptor engine in the boat? If it is, the manual in the link below from the reference section has diagrams for the engine and the dash near the back It'll tell you that the "device" is a voltage regulator for the gauges  http://www.correctcraftfan.com/downloads/1968_Interceptor_Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - link And here's an old thread in the link below with some info http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34895&title=Ongaro-tach-wiring" rel="nofollow - link |
Got Tiques wrote:Posted By: Got Tiques
Date Posted: January-28-2021 at 3:19pm
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Ken, this is why I love this site including all of the diverse personalities. Your advice was right on the money and I do have an Interceptor motor. My wiring is exactly like the schematic and my device in question is the "voltage regulator" feeding 3 Gage's. Working with Gary Starr he was able to locate one on eBay listed as Chrysler Introl. Not sure the one I have is bad, but when I apply 12v to the input terminal I get a cycling output of 0 v to about 6 volt at about 90 cycles per minute. I don't know if that's correct or not but I can't get a response from the temp or oil pressure gages. So I'm going to become an uninformed parts changer. I expect Pete to jump in here with some sage advice. Ken, thanks for the help and I'll update when I get the replacement. Todd ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4811" rel="nofollow - '78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-28-2021 at 5:00pm
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Todd, If you remove the voltage regulator, the gauges should work. The regulator just smoothes out the volts for a more consistant reading. It was a carry over from the days of the generator when there was alot of variation in the volts. Bypassing will at least tell you if the gauges are good. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-28-2021 at 5:07pm
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Pete will probably tell you that the regulator has a set of points in it that are constantly cycling to give 5 or 6 volts to the gauges. Edit........or maybe he won't................. see above post
Kinda like when points ignition systems had to start using a ballast resistor in the mid 50's or so when the auto industry went to 12 volt systems, some companies also had to use these electro mechanical voltage regulators to feed the gauges instead of redesigning the gauges for 12 volts. I think Ford and Chrysler used these type regulators and GM used new 12 volt gauges instead They used the 6 volt gauges for a whole lot of years after the mid 50's, well beyond the time your Mustang was built. There are solid state instrument voltage regulators out there these days that you could replace the old unit with. People have all kinds of stuff on the internet about building one for under 10 bucks or you can buy one for 40 or 50 bucks. You can Google "solid state IVR for gauges" and get all kinds of reading One example of a solid state newer one would be a Chrysler IVR3 in the link below http://www.rt-eng.com/index.php/RTE_limiter.html" rel="nofollow - link You can also find stuff for Fords http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/electronic-voltage-regulator-instrument-cluster-66-77-ford-bronco-new" rel="nofollow - link Just as a guess from your description, it sounds like your regulator might be working and the instruments are dead or there's no load on the regulator. Are the instruments grounded properly? Does the fuel gauge work since it's fed from the same regulator and you only mentioned the oil and temperature gauges not working? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-30-2021 at 7:07am
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Todd http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/icvr.html" rel="nofollow - link
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