1993 SNCB Warm Start Issues
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49643
Printed Date: March-04-2025 at 6:09am
Topic: 1993 SNCB Warm Start Issues
Posted By: rjlubbe13
Subject: 1993 SNCB Warm Start Issues
Date Posted: March-03-2021 at 11:15pm
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Hey CC Crew, Sorry for multiple recent posts. First time boat owner (1993 SNCB) still trying to figure out the basics of boating and a carburetor. Finally figured out the starting sequence to reliably start the engine cold. Once the engine is up and running the boat runs great. I had this scenario happen twice so far. Cruised around the lake for 45-60 minutes straight and then went to the fuel dock to refuel. Filled the gas tank up to full, ran the blower for 5 minutes, and then the engine wouldn’t start (with throttle in neutral and turning the key). Figured it would start up easily that way since the engine was warm. The engine cranks but will not start. Tried waiting another few minutes and same thing (crank but not starting). Eventually had to get towed back to the slip since the engine wouldn’t start. Anyone have any idea what the problem may be and have troubleshooting steps? So far all I have done is started the engine cold, taken the boat out for a drive, and then returned right back to the slip (except for the two times detailed above). I’m afraid to turn the engine off in the middle of the lake and not be able to start it back up. Had the boat serviced when we first purchased it. The mechanic said he felt the carburetor was not 100% but in fine condition and didn’t need a rebuild at this time. He had no problem starting the engine but I figured it’s because they only started it cold. Thanks in advance for the help. Ryan
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Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-04-2021 at 7:06am
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You might want to force the failure so you can test for root cause. Maybe go for a hard run & come back to your dock or trailer before shutting off & restarting. If it fails to start, 1st try locking into neutral (button in middle of shifter) & push throttle wide open before trying to start. Be ready to pull throttle back right away if it starts. If this doesn't work, then test for spark. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: nobrainsd
Date Posted: March-04-2021 at 2:03pm
| I have a 94 SN. I had some similar issues. Not consistently starting when warm. So, I have to ask, do you have a protec ignition system on your engine? They came on many boats at that time. Some with throttle body injection and some with regular carbs. Do a search here and you will find that many SN owners have had issues and replaced the Protec system with a regular distributor. Post a pic of your engine and it is easy to see what you have. Drove me crazy until I replaced the protec. |
Posted By: rjlubbe13
Date Posted: March-08-2021 at 11:31pm
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Thanks for the suggestions! I will give that a try next time I go out.
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Posted By: rjlubbe13
Date Posted: March-08-2021 at 11:36pm
Here's a pic of the engine. We have a regular carburetor. Any advice on how to replace the Prtoec system (if needed) is appreciated.  |
nobrainsd wrote:Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: March-09-2021 at 12:25am
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Retro-fit from ProTec back to distributor is not a terribly difficult process. Many on this site have done it. Send me a PM and I can provide some advice and guidance. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-09-2021 at 7:27am
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Engine may have been apart at some point judging by those valve covers. Before assuming you need to ditch the Protec, it would be ideal to confirm you were lacking spark when attempting to start. I suspect it is more likely that you have a maladjusted carburetor or a leaky needle/seat that is going to require some throttle input to restart the boat after sitting a bit. If the latter, the leak would be obvious if you look down the throat after shut down. Clearing a flooded condition would require more air (throttle cracked wide) and would not be helped by repeated pumping. There’s no reason a carb’d boat shouldn’t be capable of no-throttle key starts when warm, but it needs to be dialed in. |
Posted By: schultz227
Date Posted: March-25-2021 at 4:47pm
| i had this very issue on my 92 SNOB, when i was parked after running, i left the throttle wide open down and it would start. had the carb rebuilt no more issue. |
Posted By: rjlubbe13
Date Posted: March-28-2021 at 12:52pm
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Thanks for the input. I appreciate your thoughts on the problem. After taking the boat out and running the engine for several minutes, we brought it back to the slip and turned it off. Waited a few minutes and it started up first try with the throttle in neutral. Took the boat to the fuel dock to gas up and the same issue happened (explained before above). The problem has only occurred now the three times after refueling. Not sure that refueling is a coincidence at this point and seems to be part of the problem. Still thinking it has something to do with the carburetor or possibly something else? The boat starts up cold just fine, runs great, and starts up with a warm engine when not at the fueling dock. Two other troubleshooting steps/things to consider I read were to: 1. After refueling, try starting the boat with the gas cap off. 2. Check the hose from the gas tank to the air vent to see if it is cracked/damaged.
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Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: March-28-2021 at 3:00pm
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What you are describing may be a ProTech that is starting to fail. When the ProTec in my 1994 first started showing signs that it was failing, I would have a similar hot-start problem. The engine ran fine with no issues. Then after a 5-10 minute period with the engine off, the engine did not want to re-start. One time, the engine refused to re-start after a 15 minute delay between ski runs. We had a fellow boater give us a tow back to the marina. During the tow, I tried the starter...just for giggles. The engine fired right up. This type of scenario went on for 2 years and then the ProTech failed completely. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: rjlubbe13
Date Posted: May-04-2021 at 8:47pm
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Hey CC Crew, Following up on this same issue (initial post on March 3). The same scenario happens each time after filling up with gas. Fill the gas tank up to full, run the blower for 5 minutes, and then the engine won’t start (with throttle in neutral and turning the key). The engine cranks but will not start. After putting the throttle 1/3 WOT in reverse and moving further into reverse (until WOT and it can’t move any further), the engine will finally start but unevenly rumbles and is barely hanging on to remain on. Let the boat idle for 5-10 minutes and the engine continues to slowly and unevenly rumble until it starts smoothing out. Then drove it at WOT and very slowly the engine increases rpm from 2000ish to full capacity over 1-2 minutes (moves up each 200 rpm over 10-15 seconds). Brought the throttle back to idle and the engine seems like it wants to die. Prior to refueling, I ran the manual bilge pump and a small amount of clear lake water was emptied until the bilge was dry. After refueling and having the starting problem, I ran the pump again and had a significant (probably 2 or more gallons) of junky looking fluid emptied (attached picture and video (https://youtu.be/i7LjXcPUBQg)). Looked at the water surrounding the boat and it appeared to be gas and/or oil in the water. Immediately stopped the boat and had it towed to the slip for concern of gas in the bilge. Not sure what is happening here. Cold start is fine and warm start in the middle of the lake (i.e. after ski runs, etc.) the boat fires up no problem with turn of the key and no throttle input (throttle in neutral). The only issue with starting the boat is after refueling. In addition, the potential gas/oil leak into the bilge is concerning. I assume the starting after refueling issue and potential gas/oil in the bilge are related but don’t know enough to be certain. I know the ignition system and lack of spark have been suggested as potential problems, but I’m not sure how that would play into the whole picture now. My thoughts are: 1. There is a fuel leak (cracked fuel tank (must be at the top since this only happens after refilling with enough gas to spill into the bilge) or fastener/filter). 2. Fuel may not be being delivered properly to the engine after refueling. 3. The air/gas mixture is somehow being disrupted after refueling causing the difficult starts. Other thought would be the carburetor, but not sure why it would start fine cold and warm and but not after refueling. Thanks again for any input. Ryan  |
Posted By: jl_d
Date Posted: May-12-2021 at 9:56am
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Hi, sounds exactly like my issue 2 years ago. my boat would run fine at home(fake a lake) i'd get to the lake and it would spin but not start. acted flooded or ? eventually i might get it started, 50% of the time. if it ever shut off; 30 minutes or 2 hours later i could get it started again. tried everything, distributor, coil, battery, timing; adjusting / cleaning / i even rebuilt the carb. I fixed it by professionally rebuilding my carburetor. i called Holley and they referred me to their rebuilders. they must have cleaned something i could not or replaced something the rebuild kit did not include.?? in my misguided youth i was a professional mechanic and all of my tests pointed me away from the carb. it couldn't be carb, had to be something else. so the no start must be a carb 'thing' with these boats. if i ever have issues again, i'm rebuilding the carb first. best of luck let us know what fixed your issue. |