Here is a photo of the transmission's ID tag:

2  A rebuild of what you have should be sufficient, especially if you're propped right

Does it have that nasty burnt fluid smell and maybe little particles in it when you pump the old stuff out ?

JQ

Rick,

You really can't compare our marine "transmissions" to auto and trucks. Think more towards a wet clutch. 

Umm............Explain this a little more Pete

This is in the words of Yogi Berra "like deja' vu all over again"

The plate seems to have chewed up the springs as well when it broke. Any suggestions as to why a clutch plate would break like that?

I have yet to disassemble the forward clutch - seems I need to get hold of the right lock ring pliers first. Ken, you've commented in the past about the right pliers for the job, any chance of posting a link to a pair (or set) that will do the job for both the internal and external lock rings on the input shaft?

Edit: picture of damaged prop below.

Here's a picture of what the end of the lock ring or flat snap ring pliers look like and also another pair snuck into the picture with the Craftsman part number on them. A little tough to read but it's 47386

Kinda like a duckbill shape with serrations on the outer surfaces for that one small diameter but "beefy" lock ring that'll give you fits without a pair of these. You'll figure out which one 

You can find Craftsman, Lisle and a variety others pretty easily under 20 US bucks with a Google search like Joe mentioned.

Lisle part number is 44900

Happily no signs of water intrusion as far as I can tell, judging by the drained ATF and the inside of the transmission case. The transmission oil cooler is very old and has been slightly pinched from over enthusiastic tightening of the mounting bracket at some point in the past, so I am considering replacing it in any case. I'm going to test for leaks under pressure and then make a call on replacing.

And lastly: removing the coupler nut is proving every bit as difficult as I anticipated. Any tips or tricks that I can try other than the usual penetrating fluid/heat?

Thanks!

Maybe FFI Joe will come along with some words of wisdom for you 

It may take a little creativity.

Jack

I did order a new damper plate from Basic Power Industries with all of my rebuild parts. However, Basic Power only offers shipping with the USPS at checkout, which hands over to the South African Postal Service when the package gets to South Africa. The South African Postal Service then proceeded to send the package to Swaziland, from where it was sent back and is now apparently in transit. So I'm still waiting for my parts more than six weeks after ordering. The joys of a first world hobby in a third world continent...

I did have a minor transmission fluid leak from the rear of the transmission in the past, so I'd like to clean that surface up properly to ensure a good seal. What is the best way to do this? Have it polished by an engineering shop? Fit a speedi sleeve?

Thanks as always for the help!

After more than three months, the rebuild parts I ordered from Basic Power Industries eventually arrived last week. So I got back into the build process this weekend, and only paid a close look at the belleville spring for the first time today after cleaning it up - pictures below. It looks pretty worn to me - specifically there's a very noticeable groove worn into it where it contacts the clutch spring bearing ring . Due for replacement I guess? Or still re-usable?

Thanks a lot Joe, I'll PM/email you.

My transmission had twelve springs installed, and the spring kit comes with 12 springs, which suggests twelve is the magic number, but I want to be sure to get it right.

Just my opinion of course.

New cooler is lying on the shelf waiting to be installed. I didn't order new cooler lines though - just flushed the old ones out. My thinking is they're easy enough to replace if they should spring a leak at some point in the future, so until that time, I'll run with the old ones. Things which can cause trouble/leaks and are difficult to replace without pulling the trans (seals, sealing surfaces) I'm not taking chances with.

I still don't have clarity on this. Anyone with some insight here? Ken suggested that the springs have eleven coils, and hence the 11/12 confusion, but that is not the case: there is definitely a conflict between the two service manuals about the number of springs to use.

I've never heard this before. Anyone else?

Good to know but I don't recall the warranty issue ever coming up before.

Why did he take 12 out? 

(Love the Wind in the Willows reference!  Ratty is my hero!)

There's your difference Wilhelm 

Yes, a local hose shop made a third hose for me, set me up with the hose connection to npt fittings to run a remote filter. it goes into the filter hot for best flow,  then to the cooler.

Question: at around the 7:25 mark, the presenter mentions that the bushings inside the pinion carrier assembly/output shaft hadn't spun. How can one tell if they have spun or not? By confirming that the bushing holes line up with the shaft holes? Or is there something else?

So after getting the sleeves from a local SKF distributor, in my over-enthusiastic inexperience I proceeded to fit the sleeves to both the output coupler and the input shaft. Only to realise afterwards that the sleeve on the input shaft means the shaft won't fit through either the forward piston housing bearing or the forward and reverse adapter needle bearing. So I heated it up and carefully peeled it off (banging head against wall emoji goes here).

I never noticed a leak from the front of the transmission in the past, so the sleeve was more preventative than corrective maintenance - to my untrained eye the shaft looked a bit rough where the seal rides. But now I need to decide:

Thanks a lot Joe. Looks like the local distributor still has one in stock, so I won't have to wait the customary two to three weeks again.

Which of course means the plate doesn't bolt down flush with the flywheel. Should I:

Thanks as always!

I probably should have mentioned in my previous post, in case it makes a difference: I'm not using the OEM shouldered bolts (PCM part number https://skidim.com/bolt-flywheel-damper-ford-302-351.html" rel="nofollow - R009001 ). For some unknown to me reason, the damper plate mounting bolts that I removed were M8 metric bolts, not 5/16 SAE bolts. Someone must have tapped the original bolt holes to change them from SAE to metric threads at some point. Be that as it may, I'm wondering if the shoulder on the OEM bolts results in a bit of clearance between the plate and the flywheel even when fully tightened down, leaving space for the rivets and thus preventing incorrect loading of the damper plate? I was thinking that using washers for shims may serve the same purpose as the shoulder of the OEM bolts.

If it is of particular importance to use a shouldered bolt, I imagine I should be able to find metric ones that match the OEM bolt closely enough.

Click on the link below for some info in an old thread

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49475&PID=592745" rel="nofollow - link

There's a link in that thread to some ARP SAE bolts showing the dimensions and unthreaded portion. Since you need metric bolts, they won't do you any good, but you'll get the idea what your bolts should look like.

The unthreaded portion of the shank above the threads is about 1/4 inch long with about  1/2 inch of threads.

Some people are calling that unthreaded part a shoulder. It's the same diameter as the unthreaded portion of any 5/16 -18 bolt you'd get at a hardware store but it's only about 1/4 inch long

Your metric bolts should resemble these dimensions.

What's the part number cast into your flywheel?

Here's a link to the bolts at SkiDim, just for a picture, since you need metric bolts.

They call them shoulder bolts for what it's worth.

I'd call them pricey just like they did 

Looks to me like C6ZE-6380-A.

Noted. However, as Pete states in the last post in the thread you linked to, are these bolts not more 'in shear, not in tension', and hence the strength of the threads in the flywheel are maybe not of such critical importance as it may be in other applications?

When I test fitted the damper to the flywheel, the alignment between the holes in the damper plate ears and the flywheel bolt holes are so tight, it almost seems that the last bolt won't thread squarely into the flywheel. Definitely no prospect of aligning the damper plate with the transmission input shaft and then tightening to spec via the starter hole or through an access hole drilled in the bellhousing, as I've read of others doing - there is zero play between the damper plate holes and the bolts going through them.

How critical is it to use the 'shouldered' bolts, given the tightness of fit between the damper plate holes and the bolts in my situation? Or should I drill the damper plate holes ever so slightly larger, so as to allow for a bit of free play and hence alignment of the plate using the input shaft?

And if your 5/16 holes were turned into M 8-1.25  threads for example, by someone, they're gonna be weaker than some that were done properly due to the closeness in diameter when comparing dimensions and drill sizes needed.  (hard to explain, easy to see the weak end result)

.

Done properly would be.....drill the right size starter hole and make new threads, but that hole is smaller than the OD of the SAE threads that are already there and makes for some new metric threads that are weak when you're all done because you're "rearranging some of the old threads that weren't drilled out, while you're tapping the new ones.

Those new threads don't have the meat or strength that they would have and will strip at some unknown lower torque value.

You're pretty much rolling the dice, picking what seems like a "tight enough" value without saying "oops, I just went too far", maybe loading the threads with loctite and saying a couple of quick prayers that it will hold and a bolt won't work it's way out while the engine is at 3000 rpm or so..

Lots of ifs   

Later Ford autos used metric bolts that were fully threaded, but they also had locating dowels to keep the clutch pressure plate aligned.

I've never done the post transmission installation tightening either with the stock "smooth shank" bolts.

20 to 22 ft lbs was a good value for the 5/16-18 original bolts, although you'll find people saying they torqued them to 35 or so.

I'd probably take one of your metric bolts and thread it in and torque it to whatever value you pick for it and see if it strips or if it's torques down good and then make some decisions from there.

Maybe this makes sense to you and maybe not, if not, that's OK 

If you take the pump off and you can rotate things freely, then your problem  is in the pump and nothing internal is wrong.

I might suspect that the key isn't seated right in the keyway and it's pushed back enough to contact the inner race of the needle bearing in the Forward-Reverse adapter when the bolts are torqued................or some other problem with the pump gears.

Good job, hope it all works 

I have did have quite a major drive train incident on the lake yesterday, but I'll create a new thread on that.

Well here I was having read all your other updates today and getting ready to say something like "Good job on everything, here's hoping for a good, trouble free South African summer and then I see the quote below 

Hope it's an easy fix and you have that good, trouble free summer