2002 ski nautique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49697
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 9:08pm
Topic: 2002 ski nautique
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Subject: 2002 ski nautique
Date Posted: March-29-2021 at 9:28am
| My keyless entry is not working, I got my master code, type it in and the orange lights work when pushing numbers but no lights when I hit start or stop. The motor (GT40) will turn over when direct connection at solenoid. No dash lights no radio, the cd player ejected disc but that was all... anyone have this problem? |
Replies:
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: March-29-2021 at 4:07pm
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Assuming your throttle is in neutral and your kill switch tether is attached and functional it is likely your start key pad has failed. You can do several thing to check. First verify you have good contact at the key pad connecter behind the dash. Next, when the start keypad is in the “locked” mode check to be sure the horn, bilge pump and blower are still operational as they should work in “locked” mode. Next enter your code get to “unlocked” mode and see if the function key pad on the right side of you steering wheel becomes operational. If it does then your system is now unlocked and since the starter does not function when pressing the “start” button pretty much confirms the “start” button has failed and you need a new key pad. If the function key pad does not work after using your code to “unlock” the system then the system is not unlocking. This could mean two things #1 (the most likely) the start keypad has failed and needs replacement. #2 (less likely) your code is not getting received. In this case you could follow the instructions in your owners manual to erase and reprogram your code. You should consider trying programming a code such as 1111, 2222, 3333, or 4444 in the event that only one of the number buttons (1 through 4) has failed and therefore using a code avoiding that “bad” number key will allow you to get around it. Keep in mind if one key fails others will follow. If you need a key pad they should be available at NautiqueParts.com. Use the discount code PND to get 10% off. Keep the forum posted on your findings. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 8:23am
|
I tried and nothing happens when I hit the start or stop button, no lights, no power to the right side other than bilge pump button on the right... horn, blower, and bilge work but nothing else... I can hit solenoid with screwdriver and motor turns over but no lights blink when I hit start or stop. |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 8:24am
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... if it was the neutral or kill switch the solenoid wouldn't have power to hit when I use screwdriver right? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 8:45am
A start relay will always have power to it on one side of it's main contacts. It's the coil in the relay that's activated with any start circuit. Fill us in on what you are doing with the screwdriver.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Skier4life04@gmail.c wrote:Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 8:46am
|
What do you mean by "hit solenoid with a screwdriver? Smack the solenoid or maybe use the screwdriver to jump between terminals. If you're jumping between terminals, then the power is direct, bypassing any interlocks so the neutral safety switch is bypassed and the engine will turn over if it has a bad switch or if it's not in neutral.. The kill switch only kills ignition system power and has nothing to do with the starter power circuit. If the kill switch was bad or unplugged, you'd be able to turn the engine over but wouldn't get any spark. I think I'd go back to JTB's explanation in the second post to maybe find your answer
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Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 9:14am
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No just jumping the terminals, im thinking the keypad is bad, it sat dry docked for 5 years up north in Indiana... I get no response of any kind after I type code and hit start... the orange lights come one when I hit the numbers, but nothing when I hit start or stop... I checked grounds, in line fuses, breakers, main power switch, kill switch, and replaced battery and terminals.. I am looking for a keypad that's used or aftermarket, but not having any luck. |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 10:35am
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NautiqueParts.com has your start key pad for $399. With the PND discount code you should get it for $359. Expensive yes but then you should be good to go. FYI, the availability of the older key pads is getting to be less and less. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 10:39am
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Also, I would first take a gamble and follow the owners manual to erase and reenter a new code as I suggested in my earlier post. You have nothing to lose. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 5:01pm
|
I will try that James, thanks |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: March-30-2021 at 5:35pm
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Skier, put the screw driver back in the tool box!! Take a deep breath, grab a beer, then PRINT OUT James's directions from above. Take those directions to the boat with you and go through his steps, IN ORDER. THIS will diagnose your problem. THEN report back. MS
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Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-07-2021 at 4:17pm
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Skier4life04, any updates concerning your key pad and what you found. Many here and on PlanetNautique.com that regular check CorrectCraftfan.com have key pads and are interested in learning. Thanks ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-08-2021 at 4:44pm
| Ok, so I tried erasing and setting a new code, the lights did not flash, so it did not go in to program mode. I bought a new keypad, and still the same issue... im sure it's something simple but can't seem to find it... the boat sat, dry docked, for about 5 to 7 years. I also put a new battery and leads on wires. Please help, im wasting money over here between parts I don't need and beer... lol |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-08-2021 at 4:55pm
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When you press the button, do you have power at the "S" terminal on the solenoid? It should be about 12 volts and after you let go it should go down to zero volts. That info will tell a lot about where to look for the issue it could be a bad solenoid depending on which terminals you jumped with the screwdriver but it sounds like it's probably somewhere upstream.
At least you have a good spare keypad just in case. Tell yourself that spare parts are a good thing.  |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-08-2021 at 5:05pm
|
Michael, If you do get the 12 volts to the S terminal on the start relay (solenoid), check to see if there's any corrosion under the base. The base on some relays is the ground to the block. If the corrosion is bad enough then there's no ground to the relay coil. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-08-2021 at 6:36pm
| I cant even get the boat to unlock... I was trying to turn on radio or lights and nothing, like it won't accept my code, and I called nautique for the master code. When I try to set a new user code the light does not continue to Blick after I let off the 1 and 3 key |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-08-2021 at 7:49pm
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You can try the master code once you get it. Unfortunately I think your key pad has failed and a new one is likely in order. FYI... when you add a new key pad I believe your same master code will work with the new key pad. The master code apparently is not stored in the key pad. Others, like NautiqueJeff, who have changed key pads in the past will comment. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-08-2021 at 7:55pm
He just put a new one in to replace the original one, I don't think he wants to spend another few hundred for another one
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Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-08-2021 at 8:36pm
| It's like there is no communication with the computer from keypad... like I said, I type in master code, push 1 and 3 at same type (erase all codes) then put in master code, push 1 and 4 the light flashes but does not continue to flash after I let off, and its supposed to while you enter new user code. Correct? |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-08-2021 at 11:01pm
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Sorry. My error. I guess I should be more diligent about reading all the posts. Check the voltage as Ken and Pete recommended. I will do some research and get back. Having a spare key pad is not a bad thing. They all eventually go bad and new replacement are getting less and less available. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 12:30am
|
Is there a work-around to wire up an old fashioned key 🔑 and pull the key pad out of the loop? ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Mikeski2000
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 6:10am
|
I had an issue with my bilge pump not working. My keypad was going bad, and I was loosing function on all my accessories. I replaced it but no joy on my bilge pumps. I could run the pumps in the ( bilge pump only position) but not from the panel. Turned out the circuit in the breaker panel was bad. Moved my bulge pumps to a different circuit and it worked. Maybe you have a bad circuit running start/unlock function. I can’t remember the wire diagram but I think it’s on here somewhere, or planet nautique has it for sure. Mike ------------- Mike |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 6:20am
| I will check the circuits and solenoid after work today, I really dont think its that far back though. My problem is up front I believe bc the system won't even unlock. I have researched a work around and it seems that really only advised to get you off the water if keypad fails. |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 6:55am
|
Skier4life04, I am sorry for your trouble and sorry for leading you down the road to buy a new key pad that seemingly is not solving the problem. Here are a few things to think about and do as a review. When you installed the new key pad out of the box there is no primary code entered and therefore you should be able to press the start button to unlock the system and press start a second time to start the boat and press the stop button to stop the boat and press it a second one time to put it in lock mode without entering any code at all (including the master code). The horn, bilge pump and blower should also function with the new key pad out of the box without entering any code (including the master code). While the indicator light is off entering the master code then pressing 1 and 3 at the same time is a function that erases previous primary codes assuming a primary code has been successfully entered. The key pad at that point should start and stop the boat as above, the horn, bilge pump and blower should all function without entering any code (including the master code). To program a primary code do not start the process by entering the master code. Just press press 1 and 4 at the same time to get the flashing indicator light. This may be where you could be having the problem. Once the indicator light is flashing enter your 4 to 8 digit code the press the start button you must then reenter the same code and press the start button again for verification and the indicator light should then stop flashing and remain on. At that point you are good to go. Please report back on what happens. I am going to go over to PlanetNautique.com and post a message to the administrator NautiqueJeff about your issues. Jeff has connections at PCM and CorrectCraft. He will hopeful get a tech guy to chime in. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: NautiqueJeff
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 10:47am
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Based on what I have read, it doesn't sound like an issue at the starter or the starter relay. This is either a keypad issue or a wiring issue. Since the keypad is new, it is doubtful (though not impossible) that the keypads is bad. Where was the boat stored? Were there any animals (mice, etc.) that had access to the boat over those storage years? I wish I had a spare keypad for that year to send you, but I only have a spare for the 2003+ boats. ------------- Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine) |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 11:25am
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But if he starts at the solenoid and works backwards with a VOM he can find out where the 12 volts that should be going to the solenoid when he hits the button is or isn't present just to assure him it's not a solenoid issue ( or any wiring or connector issues ). No volts at the solenoid "S" or 12 volts at the same terminal narrows things down quite a bit Knowing absolutely nothing about keypads in my case, the voltage readings will still be helpful.  It'll tell you if the problem is in the thing I know nothing about or the wiring.
|
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 12:11pm
| I tried just pushing 1 and 4 and it's the same thing, when I am holding buttons down the light flashes but when I let off it stops |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 12:44pm
|
I am keeping my fingers crossed that the problem is with the procedure Skier is using to enter his primary code. Skier another thought is to disconnect your battery for a short period then reconnect. Afterwards begin by following the instructions in the owners manual exactly as written. Do not enter the master code prior to pressing 1 and 4 to enter your primary code. However before going any further and assuming no primary codes have actually been stored and the key pad is in “out of the box” condition another clue that your key is functioning correctly is to just press the start button once (without entering any codes) to unlock the system and then press it a second time very quickly (in other words don’t hold the button down as if to start the engine) this will put the key pad in “RUN” mode. In “RUN“ mode you will have power to the engine ignition and the ignition indicator light to the left of the start button we’ll be “ON” (FYI if you do nothing else the system will revert to locked mode after 15 minutes). Keno and Pete may be able to comment how you could then use a VOM at the engine to check for power at the ignition (that is above my pay grade). If you have no power to the ignition you have either an ignition wiring problem or a new key pad issue. If you in fact have power at the ignition and then pressing and holding the start button does not start the engine I would then conclude you have a wiring issue to the starter. You are also welcome to call me directly at 513-206-6831 and I can help talk you through it. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 12:55pm
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Sorry. I was typing my post while you were posting yours. Try what I said about gettin to “RUN” mode. If no go then I would try to seek out someone in your area that has any model Nautique in the 2000-2002 model year that would be willing to let you try to use their know to be good key pad as a test. Like NautiqueJeff said it is not likely but not impossible the new keypad your received is faulty. I know you most be very frustrated. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 1:24pm
| I tried just pushing start button but nothing changes, I don't believe there have been any animals in it either, there are no signs of that anyway. I'm waiting on a friend to get here to push start while I check for power |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 1:45pm
| I just checked power at solenoid, there is a constant 12v but nothing on the other terminal when I push start. |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 2:09pm
| Should I have power to my kill switch? |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 2:09pm
| Pull the cannon plug off the back of the main keypad and check for 12v on the pins in the plug. |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 2:17pm
| Yes, there is power at the red wire for main keypad, 12.3v |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 2:49pm
|
Skier, Not to send you toward another dead end and others that are more knowledgeable will correct me but I am going to go out on a limb here and suggest 12.3 volts at the key pad may be a problem. And I repeat MAY be a problem. I would definitely think 12.3 should be more than enough but from what I understand 12.3 means the battery is only 50-75%. I researched PlanetNautique.com and found a thread posted by Pat-Oz ( in Australia), titled “Key Pad Not Working” from November, 22 2004. Apparently he had similar if not the exact same issues you are having. His lights would only blink while 1 and 4 were presses and the went out when released and had other similar issues. As you read through all the posts it turned out with him it was a voltage issue that was resolved after attending to his battery cables/terminals. Something to consider. On many older boats the battery cable corrodes inside the insulation and therefore can result in poor contact between the battery cable and the battery terminal connectors where the terminal is clamped to the cable. Also checking/cleaning the negative cable ground at the block isis important. Apparently the key pad can be very sensitive to voltage. A poorly charged or weak battery supposedly will also cause issues with the key pad. Sincerely hope this information helps ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 3:57pm
| Do you know how many volts it should be? |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 5:37pm
| Just for grins skier, put a battery charger on the batt and try again. |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 5:40pm
| I just went and got another battery. A group 65 750cca... should I have power in any other wire than red when I push buttons on main keypad? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-09-2021 at 6:26pm
If you have power in which you do on the red wire, at least one of the other wires has to have power coming out of the pad when you push the button The others are Black goes to ground so no power Orange goes to the 40 pin connector under the dash Green goes to the 40 pin connector under the dash. The diagrams for a 2001 SN (nothing for 2002 but they use the same pad)on Planet Nautique are about as easy to read as a road map of Beijing, so I'd look for power on both the Orange and Green wires with the button pushed. One or both should have power, strictly as a guess both should, but if neither one does then you have keypad issues. One wire for the Start circuit and the other for the Ignition power circuit If only there were some easily understood directions for replacement of the keypad and it's subsequent programming Maybe JTB can check his keypad for voltage on the Green and Red wires I think his 06 is different but he could probably still give you some good info on what/how many wires have voltage when the button is pushed. I think JTB will be your best programming help, so listen to him.
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Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 5:50am
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Skier and Keno, I will be happy to check the voltage at my key pad but you will have to be very patient because I won’t be getting back to my boat until the end of May. Hopefully someone will be able to check there own boat for you long before I do. I will go on PlanetNautique and ask NautiqueJeff if he would be so kind as to check one of his boats and report back. FYI... Jeff informed me that the “master code” is programmed at the factory into the original key pad and is stored within the keypad itself, not you boats ECM. The new pad key you purchased (I assume from NautiqueParts) therefore has NO master code. I posted a question to ask him this: Since your original key pad which has the factory master code that functions to “lock/unlock” the key pad and “erase” previously entered primary and secondary codes and since your new key pad has no master code in bedded does therefore the first “primary” code you eventuality program into it by default become the new “master code” leaving you then with an additional “primary” and “secondary” code programming option. He has yet to response (I suspect he is researching it) so I will report back when I hear from him. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 8:22am
| So if there is no code embedded then anyone can buy a keypad and take any nautique they want? 400 is a good price for your choice of nautiques... I hope there is something we are missing to unlock the new keypad. Thanks everyone for all your help, it has definitely helped me figure out where to look. |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 8:46am
| Just thinking out loud here, but would this issue throw out a code that a OBD reader would pick up? |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 9:00am
| Don't see anywhere to hook one up |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 9:18am
|
Skier, I did post the question to NautiqueJeff over on PlanetNautique to give me a more detailed answer about the lack of a “master code” embedded in the new key pads but he has yet to get back to me. As for your question about using a new uncoded key pad to take a boat you are correct. In fact anyone who owns a Nautique with a key pad could theoretically take the key pad out of their own boat, plug it into a their neighbors Nautique (assuming a model year with the same key pad) and go cruising around the lake. If an unscrupulous character is hanging around your lake it would probably be quicker for him to find a boat with a standard key and just “hot wire” it or tow any boat to a ramp, load it on a trailer and away she goes. On the serious side, did you happen to get a voltage reading from the red key pad wire after you installed the new battery? Assuming you did and are getting 12.6-12.8 volts that would confirm you have good power. If you are still at around 12.3v at the key pad and your new battery is at 12.6-12.8v that would indicate a wire issue most probably related to the battery cables. Where you able to get voltage at the green and orange wires? Also, since Jeff said the new key pads have no master code I assume they are able to store 3 codes like the original (the originals store the factory installed master code and the user installed primary and secondary code). If that is correct, when all your key pad issue finally get sorted, I would suggest entering the first code with the same numbers as you original master code like the factory did.and use it to be able to erase the other two possible primary and secondary codes. But like I said I and waiting for Jeff’s input as he is more knowledgeable and has experience replacing keypads. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 9:48am
| With the new battery I am getting 12.5 at the red wire and the exact same at the battery. I got a group 65 battery like it calls for. 750 cca and new ground terminal... I get the same voltage at starter and solenoid, just no communication from keypad, and no power at any other wire from keypad when I push any button. |
Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 9:57am
|
Charge your new battery, I get 13.2 My alt puts out 14 |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 10:02am
|
No power out of either green or orange wire makes me suspicious of the key pad. I asked Jeff if he would check the voltage of the key pad wires on one of his boats since I am 2000 miles away from mine. I am sure he will be willing to help but has yet to post back to me. In the mean time I would be calling NautiqueParts and get their thoughts and if appropriate sending you a replacement. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 10:12am
| Ok James, I appreciate it, I did hook charger up to it just to see how much voltage I can get out of it, however I don't believe I will get 14 bc its a 12 v system |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 10:52am
|
I could be wrong but as a ballpark range a resting fully charged battery should be 12.6-12.8v. 12.9 and above is considered overcharged. An alternator puts out 13.7-14.7v. A battery charger initially puts out about 14.7 and the floats at 13.5 v. There are other poster on here that are a lot more knowledgeable about this than me. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 11:22am
| Ok, so by charging my battery, the dash lights now turn on when I push start, still nothing else though. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 11:23am
Some reading is needed:   ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 11:47am
With no voltage on any other wire, it's like a big black hole that your power goes into and never gets out of I'd have to agree with JTB and you that it's a keypad programming issue and no power is going to the start and ignition circuits. A battery with 12.3 volts being unable to make the keypad function sounds just plain kinda ridiculous. |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 12:07pm
| I guess I'm going to box this keypad up and send it back for a replacement... I checked the wires again, and with 14.5v the orange wire makes the multimeter kick on very dim, not enough power to read but a very little must be trickling through it. That should be a sure tell sign that this new pad is faulty, correct? Or it has a code in it from factory and they have not supplied it for me? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 12:11pm
 What kind of VOM do you have? It has a light that lights up or do you mean the numerals light up and gives you a voltage reading ? Fill us in. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 1:22pm
|
Skier, you said when you push the start your “dash lights” come on. Do you mean the indicator light immediately below the # 4 button. If so you have entered “unlocked” mode. Which is a good start and what is expected since we can assume no code of any kind has been successfully installed thus far. In “Unlocked”mode and with the indicator light below button #4 “ON” you should now have power to the key pad to the right of the steering wheel and all function on that key pad should operate assuming your boat came with that option. Once you have it in “unlocked” mode do a very quick second press of the start button in an effort to advance the key pad to “Run” mode. In “Run” mode the indicator light immediately below the #1 should be “ON” indicating that power is being supplied to the ignition. The key pad is designed to remain in “Run” for about 15 minutes if nothing else is done. I would then recheck the orange and green wires for voltage and I would expect one or the other to show something. Let’s assume you 12+ volts at one of those wires. Pressing and holding the start button now for the third time should activate the starter. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 1:28pm
| No, sorry, I should have been more clear, the indicater lights only come on when I push a number button, neither one stays on... the lights im referring to are dim lights behind each button on both keypads, so I guess I'm still not unlocking the system? The indicator light under the 4 would stay on if I did? |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 1:33pm
| https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/iODv1kbfETt3 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 1:36pm
| Not sure if I did this right, but let me know if yall can see this short video |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 1:40pm
|
Yes that is correct. It must not be unlocking. I just checked PlanetNautique and no new posts there yet. Sounds like you have already contacted NautiqueParts for a replacement. Hopefully in the end you are the “one in a million” guy that gets the faulty key pad. If that turns out to be the case, buy a lottery ticket for a million dollar drawing. Maybe lighting will strike twice. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 1:42pm
| Lol, you know I will be!! I'll be sharing with yall too! I hope thats the issue, bc im kind of at a dead end here. I will update when I get the new one in. |
Posted By: Mikeski2000
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 2:17pm
|
Curiosity has gotten the better of me so here is what I see on mine. When I enter my code, I hit start once. It lights like you show, and my radio comes on. One more quick hit and my gauges come to life. I push start longer and it fires off. No code and I get the dash lights like you but nothing else. Just like you are showing. I don’t have an ohm reader so I can’t give you voltages. I wonder if you have a code somehow programmed in yours. Just my thoughts. I’m sorry you are struggling so much with this. A key would be nice sometimes. ------------- Mike |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 2:30pm
| That's what I'm hoping as well, I sent an email to nautique parts and also the dealer where I got the boat, but from what I have found online, the new ones don't have embedded code and the original code is stored in the old keypad. I havnt been able to do anything as far as programming on this new one though |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 3:18pm
| Ok,so I spoke to the nautique dealer and they said my PDM (breaker box) is locked out. I'm not getting a volts reading from the other wires because the keypad sends data back to PDM not power, thats why my multimete just dimly blinks when I test orange wire. I have to take the boat to nautique dealer so they can go in and program my PDM to new keypad. Fingers crossed thats all it is. |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 3:26pm
|
Now I have learned something. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 3:29pm
|
By the way what exactly is a PDM and what does PDM stand for? ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 3:35pm
| Not sure, lol, I didnt ask what it stood for I did clarify he was talking about the breaker box under the steering column. The nautique dealer apparently has to get in it with a computer and reset it. I'm going to call a few more Monday and get their opinions as well before I drive 2 hours to the dealer. |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 3:38pm
| Power distribution module... PDM, just looked it up |
Posted By: Mikeski2000
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 3:41pm
|
Power Distribution Module(PDM). Why they can’t just call it the fuse box. Hope they get you sorted out. Seem to remember hearing that on Planet Nautique once as well. Mike ------------- Mike |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 4:41pm
I'd find out what tool their using and GET ONE! That tool should be mandatory for anyone with a 'key pad' operated boat! MS
|
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 6:30pm
I think we all have Among other things, I also seem to have learned that their diagrams are pretty much worthless when they don't even show a PDM on any of the available diagrams on PN for the 00 to 02 boats. (dash diagram, main harness diagram etc) |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 6:59pm
|
Just an FYI skier there are several threads on PlanetNautique where owners of 2000-2002 model years replaced their key pads with new ones right out of the box with no need to go to the dealer for any kind of programming. Since there seems to be space to store 3 codes the recommendation seems to be to use the original master code as the first entry to keep it “original” for future owners/trips to the dealer for service/repairs. I think a call to NautiqueParts is in order before a 2 hr trip to the dealer. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2021 at 7:02pm
My first impression is the dealer is out to make some money!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-11-2021 at 3:58pm
| Yes, I am definitely going to contact nautique parts before I go, thing is my original keypad may not have been bad bc its doing the same thing the old one was, so the PDM losing the master code could have been the problem from the jump... it did sit many years with a bad battery up in Indiana. |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-11-2021 at 6:58pm
|
If it ends up being an issue with the PDM and in fact the PDM is toast NautiqueJeff has one advertised for sale under “gear for sale” on PlanetNautique. If needed you can talk to him about it. I am very interested hear what you find out from NautiqueParts. ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: James T Brockma
Date Posted: April-15-2021 at 6:31pm
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Skier, do you have any update on your keypad? Thanks ------------- Jim '06 216 '98 SN 176 |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-15-2021 at 11:00pm
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I just read this post for the first time. After reading I would make it priority to eliminate the touch pad and go back to a key or even a push button start. The 40 pin plug at the pad might be a very tough work around. I work on modern automotive electrical all the time and any time I have to turn the key to the run position to tast systems I hook up a battery charger, voltage drop causes many issues with computer controlled engines. ------------- |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-16-2021 at 2:23am
|
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/maintenance-technical-discussion/588115-keypad-backup-or-bypass&share_tid=588115&share_fid=3823&share_type=t&link_source=app Keypad backup or bypass Worth a look? D ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-16-2021 at 5:25am
Link: https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/maintenance-technical-discussion/588115-keypad-backup-or-bypass&share_tid=588115&share_fid=3823&share_type=t&link_source=app" rel="nofollow - Keypad backup or bypass - PlanetNautique Forums ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-16-2021 at 5:58am
|
Thanks Pete. Was in a hurry before work! ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-16-2021 at 6:20am
| I sent the new keypad and PDM off to nautiqueparts to be tested, they should have showed up there yesterday. I will go with the work around if PDM is bad, thats another 800 bucks. Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-16-2021 at 6:28am
| If you need to go with the workaround, it would be easy enough to turn the toggle switch and pushbutton into a keyswitch, then you'd have a key that you could put in your pocket. |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: April-16-2021 at 7:40am
|
Good point. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-16-2021 at 8:20am
| That sounds so much easier and much more cost sensitive... lol |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-25-2021 at 8:42am
| Ok, so an update, I sent my new keypad, old keypad, and ECM to nautiqueparts, they tested everything. My old keypad was bad, and the ECM was bricked, they flashed it for me and now it should work. Only thing is it won't be able to store a code, ill just push start. I will let you all know what happens when I get it back together, im hoping all the seals are OK from sitting dry so long. |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-25-2021 at 8:44am
| An added note, nautiqueparts customer service is excellent, they flashed and tested my parts free of charge. Although I bought a keypad from them, I still think they went above and beyond to help out! |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-25-2021 at 1:14pm
Does this mean you'll now have a really easy to steal boat? Just push the button and away you go
|
Posted By: Mikeski2000
Date Posted: April-25-2021 at 3:08pm
|
Could put a keyed battery kill switch in the battery box. It wouldn’t be impervious to theft, but nothing is. ------------- Mike |
Posted By: Mikeski2000
Date Posted: April-25-2021 at 3:11pm
|
Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B85G8RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_W2RJ4PYFCCFN68198F7F ------------- Mike |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-25-2021 at 4:17pm
Did they say why it won't take a code?
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 5:46pm
| Yes, definitely easy to steal... lol... I have it all back together now, it turns over but doesn't fire. I have spark at the plugs and when I put starting fluid in the throttle body it runs, until I stop spraying... any ideas? |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 5:48pm
| And yes, im going to put a main power cut off severe in the boat, not sure where yet, but definitely out of sight... not sure why it won't hold a code, I was just happy I didn't have to buy another outrageously priced box! Thanks everyone for yalls help, it makes this so much easier! |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 5:53pm
1. Put the can of starting fluid down! 2. As soon as you put power to the keypad, you should hear the relay activate the fuel pump. If you don’t hear it, it’s a bad relay. NAPA usually has them. It’s a quick change. Get a couple extra and keep on the boat. Those relays are a high failure item. Those relays are located on the back of the motor next the ECU. Here are your two relays. I'd change them both just because of age and sitting so long.  |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 6:15pm
|
Ok, I will get them, and give it a shot, im pretty sure I hear the fuel pump kicking on right before I try to start it everytime though? Or is that not what I'm hearing? |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 6:16pm
| Yes, they are clicking and the fuel pump is kicking on... any other suggestions? |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 6:19pm
| https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/vQNq5F0fjvwE |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 6:34pm
| Hmmmm...I didn't go back through the entire thread, but has the boat been running since you got it? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 7:44pm
Don't just put it down, please dispose of it. The stuff is a great way to ruin an engine. Why do you even have it? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 8:04pm
|
Lawnmower on its last leg, thats what the starting fluid is for. The boat had been sitting for about 7 years. I siphoned all the gas out and put 15 gallons of 100% gas in it. Changed the oil and filter Cleaned the cap, rotor, and plugs Drained the full element And checked the relays and kill switch And I am getting spark at the plug |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-26-2021 at 8:29pm
|
There are 2 fuel pumps that have to run -the low pressure one which is basically a fuel transfer pump and the main high pressure pump. Here is a way to manually energize them, a fuel pressure gauge from somewhere like harbor freight would be helpful as well.
 https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=5826" rel="nofollow - - https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/search_form.asp?USR=gun%2Ddriver" rel="nofollow - - Grand Poobah The STO is hangs on the rear of the motor by the circuit breakers. You need to make a jumper that will fit in the STO (with an inline fuse preferred) and an alligator clip or something similar. Plug into the STO then connect to a good ground source, this will run both pumps full time taking all other sensors out of the loop. So if both pumps run and the motor starts the problem is in the pump circuit somewhere. If it does not start but has fuel pressure then we need to look at the ignition side of the puzzle.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Skier4life04@gmail.c
Date Posted: April-27-2021 at 4:56pm
| Pumps were running, still wouldn't fire though. The spark did not look very strong when I checked it. Is it likely that the spark is not strong enough to ignite fuel but is enough to ignite the starting fluid? |