- Checked positive and negative battery cables, both are tight and showing 12 volts

- Tested the fuse on the positive battery cable, it both looks good and is flowing 12 volts

- Tested lanyard, it is showing good continuity 

- Tried to press the three breakers on the back of the engine, all three appear ok

- Tested continuity of the 60 AMP breaker, it was fine

When I press the start button the boat wakes up but I don't hear the pump priming. Any other ideas? 

I don't know where the pump is (still learning the boat) nor can I figure out where to jumper the relays to see if those are bad. I am open to ideas/suggestions. Pictures help if you have them, I have been reading threads to troubleshoot but am at a bit of a loss at this point. 

Thank you

Read this thread:

https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49000&title=fuel-pump-relay-failed" rel="nofollow - https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49000&title=fuel-pump-relay-failed

JQ

Just pulled down wiring diagram..time to start tracing

any other hints of direction would be great

JQ

If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, that will also tell you very quickly if there is a pump issue (high or low pressure pumps)...

Going off my GT40 (should be the same basic fuel delivery system even if GM), the high pressure pump is inside the FCC.  The low pressure pump (both are electric) is probable under your FCC, but you should be able to follow the inlet hose to the FCC back to the low pressure pump.

You can also pull a spark plug wire and get it close to ground and turn over the engine (the end of the spark plug wire should be no more than about 1/4" from a good ground surface.  If it sparks, then I'd go back to fuel.

Between the two GT40s I've had, I have more than 2,000hrs experience.  I've never had an ignition issue once.  I've had several fuel-related issues, but all have been fairly easy to diagnose.

I have a key; not the push button dash pod, so I don't know how/when the pumps turn on before you start it.  With a keyed start switch, when you turn the ignition on (first position from off), the pumps both go on for a second or two (you can hear them with the engine cover up) and then stop.  They start again when you turn the starter (of course you can't hear them then (although you could put a volt meter on the positive side of connector to either of the pumps and to ground and see if you get 12 volts when the pumps should be on).

There is a jumper you can use to manually turn the pumps on, but if you don't have a GT40, I don't know if it will be the same or not.

You said you hear a clicking sound when you connect and disconnect the safety lanyard.  What relay is that flipping?  Since my '97 has a key, if the safety lanyard is disconnected, my starter turns, but there is no power to the fuel pumps/ignition (or both--I'll have to test and see if it kills both or just the fuel pumps).

I also need to mention (sorry to say) that it makes me a bit nervous that your repair shop used only a battery charger to power the electronics.  Most battery chargers are notoriously electronically noisy; they are not made for powering electronics.  They are fine for charging batteries and maybe running motors or lights, but not good for electronics.  They are okay when there is a battery in place because the battery acts as a sort of capacitor/filter of some of the electronic noise.  Even your alternator makes noise; it's never a good idea to disconnect your battery while your engine is running and power everything from just the alternator.  I won't get into more detail here, but you've got an electronic dash pod.  I don't know what all is involved in the dashboard electronics to enable entering code, start and stop buttons, but I would be very careful with the power supply I use for any electronics.  If I need to power any electronics in my boat or cars when the main battery is out, I always use a battery-operated jumper box.  Since the power source from them is a battery and therefore completely clean DC (vs the inverted AC from a battery charger or even an alternator), I know I'm not going to harm any electronics.

Let us know.

The engine is a GT40 and I believe the pump(s) is/are not working, I don't hear them prime when I turn power on. I do believe it was the relay clicking when I pulled the lanyard. 

 I just pulled the lead to the top pump and it is getting power but appears only to be four volts. When I pull the lanyard it goes to zero, put it on, back to four volts. When I crank it goes down to three volts.  

I was looking at the jumper on one of the threads but honestly I am struggling a bit where to jump. Do I jump it off one of the relay connections? 

Thanks for the continued support

1. Sorry for not noticing that your topic said GT40....ignore all that I said about a GM...... 

2. I didn't understand (your second post) about the battery terminal/connector.  A picture would help.  Where are you measuring the voltage?  If your starter is turning normally, then there shouldn't be any problem with your battery connector.  Of course, in addition to the big red positive cable at the battery that goes directly to the starter, you have a secondary smaller gauge cable that powers everything else.  But if that was poor, the starter solenoid wouldn't have sufficient power to throw the starter solenoid to turn the engine over.  Where are you measuring 4 volts?  4 volts anywhere indicates a problem when your starter is still able to turn over (so it is getting 12 volts).

3. Fuel pump jumper:  Let me dig up some pictures, etc. so you know which to jump.  I've got them somewhere on my laptop or back up drive; just have to find them (this evening).

4. I'll also go check the voltage to the high pressure pump (connector at top of FCC).  It should be 12v.

That 4v has got me confused.  Let me know where you're measuring it.  Since the starter will turn over and therefore has 12 volts (or close enough), but you are measuring 4volts elsewhere, it would make sense that the fuel pumps wouldn't run (the relays might fire with 4 volts, but a click is all you'd hear).

Do you mean that the wire from the cable had come out of the cable terminal that clamps onto the battery post?  A picture would help; I want to know where you're measuring 4 volts on what wire coming off the battery.  

Apologies, but insert is putting the below photo on it's side.  What you see as the top of the picture should be on the right side of the picture.  I tried cropping, etc, and it just keeps inserting it sideways.

For the 4v I pulled the power cable off the Fuel Pump (front of engine, Port side) and put my multi-meter in those connection. I was trying to see if the fuel pump was getting power. Is that not the correct spot to measure voltage? 

Per your point #4 below, I think that is the same cable I used to measure voltage. Dark here now but can work to get a picture in the morning. 

Yes, the red positive wire that connects to the Positive side of the battery. The cables had come undone from the terminal connector. I made sure the large (10 gauge?) wire for the starter was in there as well as the smaller cable that has a fuse on it. To your point, I thought the smaller wire powered the rest of the boat and it does seem to be providing sufficient power as everything else seems to be working. 

The other question is if the new radio could have a short or be pulling voltage. I can't imagine why but that is the only other thing that would have changed. 

Kevin

I put a blade connector on the end of the wire that I plugged into the connector (the one you see in the picture).  The other end I put an alligator clip on it and just attached it to a bolt (any handy bolt on the engine).

Yes, to check power to the pump, that is the correct place.  I thought you said when you measured 4v, it was also near the battery, not just at the pump harness.  I'll run out in a bit and check the voltage on mine but I'm sure it will be 12 volts when the pumps run.  I assume the rest of your electronics and accessories (stereo, blower, lights, horn, etc.) all are working correctly with sufficient voltage (I always turn my blower on; I can tell the state of my battery by the speed in which it blows).

When you jump the fuel pump relay connector to ground, you should hear the relay and the pumps should turn on.  If not (and all of your other accessories work (regular voltage), then I'd look at all of the breakers again and confirm voltage on both sides of the breaker terminals.

Ok, some new information. I cleaned the terminals and the cables and was able to verify 12v across the following areas:

- cigarette lighter

- 60 amp breaker

- across leads of fuel pump relay (pulled plug out of relay)

I am still not getting voltage to fuel pump. I believe i was reading my multi-meter incorrectly last night and was getting .04 volts at the fuel pump. Suggests maybe the relay again? 

I attempted to jump it the relay but the picture appears to be different and I wasn't really successful. These are the pictures from the back of the boat:

The picture below is yours with an arrow and a line drawn in

If you check for voltage at the terminal that the Red arrow is pointing to, you should have about 12 volts between that terminal on the connector and a good ground on the engine.

If you don't have voltage there, it's time to go backwards to see where the voltage stops.

Is it safe to assume you're using the 310 page manual, page 6-8 for a wiring diagram?

If you do have voltage there, then you can put a jumper between the two terminals with the Blue line drawn in, That will put 12 volts to the pumps and they should run. (just a short wire with 2 male spade terminals will do for the jumper) This bypasses both the ECM relay and the fuel pump relay unlike jumpering the STO terminal

That'll tell you the pumps aren't dead at least, but still leaves a few different reasons to explore as to why the pumps aren't getting power 

Assume that does mean relay? I will replace both if so. 

Huge help here as well. I did check the voltage at the red arrow, it was 12 volts so I felt good there was power there. 

You all are life savers 

Haven't you already replaced both relays (The ECM and the fuel pump relays) with new ones?

Grounding the connector manually puts in the ground that is normally accomplished by the computer.

As a quick check you could pull the ECM relay and then do the same STO ground and see if the fuel pumps run and post those results.  You should hope I'm wrong

I defer to Keno and those with a lot more experience with the ECM, etc.  I don't know what result we're looking for with the ECM relay removed.  I'm just hoping that the mechanic using a battery charger to power the boat electronics didn't somehow messed up what the computer is supposed to be doing (grounding the fuel pump relay).

I have the same worry... I am a little lost where to go next here

I wouldn't defer to me about anything.........it's a group effort 

You should be able to put that jumper in and start the engine unless there are other issues. I seem to think GunDriver might have run his boat with a bit of a "rig job" like this for a while due to pretty much the same or similar issues with the fuel pumps.

Here's an old thread that you may not want to read in the link, his issue was somewhat like yours and after lots of pages of discussion and testing, he ended up with a new ECM.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25775&PN=1&title=99-sn-gt40-fuel-supply" rel="nofollow - link

I don't think anybody wants to see that be the case though.

More head scratching to do.

One thing might be to unplug the ECM 60 pin connector, make sure all the terminals look clean and the ground looks clean.

Thanks, will read. Not feeling perfect about this. Where do I find the ECM 60 pin connector? On the back of the engine under the plastic cover? 

It's the big connector under this boot at the bottom of the plastic cover (arrow points to cable).

- PM t.franscion at PlanetNautique.com to see if he is willing to burn the chip and if so do the following

- Ford ECU Part Number: F1ZF-12A650-AB

- Buy the F3V2 Chip from  http://www.moates.net/" rel="nofollow - www.moates.net

- Ship both ECU and Chips to yourself.. assemble? I have not done this step yet

Sorry, I missed one step on shipping. You will need to have Moates ship the chip to t.franscion to make the updates, it is then shipped to you. 

Thanks for all the help

Agree on the amazing help! 

Boat is in the water and runs perfectly, stored on the lift for the summer. The ECM must have gotten smoked with the battery charger... 

Thanks for all the support here. 

The silver lining of this was that with the boat on the trailer at the house I was able scrub the carpet and perform a full deep clean I have not been able to do in the past. Now if the weather would just turn...

 

I'd look around at places that repair the ECMs and if the price is reasonable you could end up getting the bad one fixed and in the spare parts bin.

Kevin,

Do you keep a charger connected when you aren't using the boat? 

Fill us in on why you feel the battery charger damaged the ECM. 

Hello, thanks for the question I don't keep it on a charger. From my first post: 

"I pulled our 2002 Ski Nautique out of storage today, dropped it in the lake, hit the starter and it would turn over but not fire..  Over the winter I had the mechanic replace the speakers and headunit along with a few other things. While they were testing the stereo they didn't have the battery in the boat but instead powered it via battery charger. I was there when they powered it up and it clearly didn't have enough amps but they never tried to fire the boat. I have no idea if that impacted this...."

Thanks for filling me in. Yes, I should have gone back to the first post. 

It sucks that FSTS2k had his ECM fried most probably from the mechanic that used a charger to power it; hard to prove who did it.  But a good lesson for the rest of us.