Distributor cap + rotor

Drive belts

I used this image for firing order: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/ford-302HO-351W-firing-order.jpg" rel="nofollow - http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/f...ring-order.jpg verified against the order listed on the engine plaque.

I tested two of the plugs with an inline tester, and there is spark.

I ruled out the lanyard / safety cutoff, since it primes the fuel cell when I disconnect / reconnect, so it seems like it's working as intended.

I removed, checked and re-tightened everything. Unhooked and reset all wires, to ensure they were seated properly. Coil wire seated and snug on both ends.

Is it safe to assume that your #1 plug wire is in the same spot in the distributor that it was in before you swapped plug wires?

Yeah, I guess I saved myself some $ by doing the breaking DIY style...

The #1 plug wire is labeled on the cap, as was the old one. It went back in exactly the same orientation as the cap that came out.

Since you messed with the fuel system, do you have a fuel pressure gauge that you can check the pressure with? It should be about 39 plus or minus 3 when you're trying to start it.

I don't have one, although I can get an inline gauge at HF if needed.

Is replacing the filter really a "mess with fuel system" job? It seems so simple; drain, filter out, filter in. I can't even see where something could go wrong there?

Also, where would I need to hook up the gauge to test pressure? Right after the fuel cell? Or...?

http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-62623.html?_br_psugg_q=fuel+pressure+gauge" rel="nofollow - link

Always nice to have anyways for fuel injected troubleshooting.

You'll find a Schrader valve on the front of the fuel rail that the gauge will screw on to.

Everything you did seems straightforward, but like you said it's broke 

I just got back from HF with the exact unit you linked. Hooked it up to the schrader on the front of the rail, and cranked it over. I got nothing. 0 psi. Needle didn't budge.

I tested the gauge on the trailer tire to make sure it wasn't itself broken, and that read 42 psi, which is about right.

When I turn the key, I get a click from the relay, then a sort of whirring sound. I thought this was the fuel cell priming, but perhaps not. I don't actually hear liquid (quick video link: http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jwi1j-02nhA" rel="nofollow - http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jwi1j-02nhA ). This whirring stopped when I unplugged the LPFP, so I think it's safe to say that's the culprit of the noise.

I tested the voltage at the LP & HP fuel pumps, and both are getting a quick 12v when I turn the key.

Also, I am reading about the FCC tube issue. Do I need to take the FCC apart again to check that? I didn't know to look when I had it apart.

I'm thinking I will drain the FCC and check the tube, assuming that any fuel has gotten into the FCC to begin with.

That whirring sound. Does it mean the LP is fried? Or that it's not getting fuel from upstream, and is priming "dry"?

This is progress, if nothing else! Can't start an engine without any fuel getting to it.

Thanks!!!

I think I'd look at everything you did related to the fuel system, especially that pesky hose in the FCC. It can twist and kink when you're putting things back together.

The whirring noise is the LP pump running, it may be moving fuel or it may not, but if the HP pump can't pump out of the FCC because of the pesky hose you'll have no pressure.

When you turn the key, the pumps run for about 2 seconds and shut off if the engine isn't running.

OMG...

I will cut to the chase... do you see any problems?

Ugh. Why is it always something stupid?

So I got the FCC apart, which was MUCH easier the 2nd time around, now with anti-sieze on the threads. The tube seemed in decent enough shape, but I still didn't see what was going on. The FCC was full of fuel, so the LPFP was clearly doing something. I thought that the HPFP was bottoming out on the filter, causing it to not be able to draw in fuel (because the filter came up stuck on the HPFP, which wasn't the case with the one I replaced). I started researching the HPFP part # for replacements and whether I can test it "dry". I needed to go back to the FCC to check the wiring, looked up into the top where the wires were concealed, and BOOM! I am so frustrated, and so relieved. I must have popped the connection off when I was working my finger up there to seat the o-ring. The o-ring was misshapen from how it's shipped in the middle of the filter, so it took some doing to get it seated.

Put it all back together, got my hose connected to the water intake and it fired to life with no problems. Idled beautifully and just purred along.

Now the silver lining. As a result of this nonsense:

1. I now know where the FP relay is located

2. I know how to jump the ECC Test connection to run the pumps at will

3. I know where to test for voltage for both HP & LP fuel pumps

4. I know how to test for fuel pressure, and now have a tool to do so

5. I have 1 additional checklist item to verify next time I swap the filter

All in all, it's a good learning experience.

Thanks, KENO for your help.

Look at that...........6 hours after you posted, it's unbroken and you have a fuel pressure gauge that works on the trailer tires too. 

And you obviously did some searching and learned some good stuff about your engine along the way

And posted a great shot of the schraeder valve location and the pump connections for the next guy.

Good job