Key stuck in prop
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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49819
Printed Date: December-27-2024 at 6:56am
Topic: Key stuck in prop
Posted By: GTH852001
Subject: Key stuck in prop
Date Posted: May-16-2021 at 9:23pm
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Hi All, I read through the prop pages and didn't see any mention of the issue I am having on my 1985/2001. I am removing the prop for strut bearing replacement and possible prop replacement. The prop is loose but the key is stuck in the prop so the prop will not come off. I have tapped on the key with a narrow punch but it is not moving. Also soaked in PB blaster no help yet. The prop hasn't been off for 20 plus years, yes that means my strut bearings have not been replaced in 20 plus years. Any ideas? Thanks! |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-16-2021 at 10:07pm
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Maybe remove the rudder, remove the transmission coupler flange, then pull the whole shaft out. Then you can work on it without hitting your head on the rudder, etc. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 5:17am
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Greg, What type of prop puller are you using? Some of the C clamp styles will stretch too much. Have you tried any heat? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 5:36am
I think he's using a puller that works since the prop is loose already.
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GTH852001 wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 6:12am
Possibly not using a puller since if he was, the puller should pull the prop off a stuck key. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 6:16am
| I'm a little slower than normal this morning Pete................the key is stuck in the prop so why don't you explain how the puller will get the key out of the prop |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 6:55am
"the prop will not come off" "the prop hasn't been off in 20 years' ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 7:22am
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What about those other words you quoted............"the prop is loose" it's loose and with the key stuck in the prop, he can't slide the prop off of the shaft
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 7:26am
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My first thought was time to start hitting the gym when I saw this last night. Second thought was to pull it off with the puller- stack a 1/4 “ deep socket between the puller and shaft if needed and keep going. Rather than go through all the work of removing and reinstalling the coupler and rudder cut the prop off 😉 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 7:34am
Yes, if he's run out of thread on the puller, then I too would back it off and add spacers. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 10:05am
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Well Pete, you can read it however you want to but obviously you've never tried to get a prop off that's been loosened with the puller and the key is stuck in the prop like he stated It can't be done without destroying/damaging something because that key hits the threads when you're trying to get the prop the rest of the way off the shaft.
The key has to be out of the prop if you want to get it off without damaging anything Give it a try. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 12:03pm
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I don’t see why this is so hard to understand, ha. The solution, unfortunately, is a PITA. The last time this happened to me, I took a grinder to the shaft threads in order to give the prop (with stick key) a way off. Not pretty, but effective- and I have used the shaft subsequently (just clean up the threads). Getting the key out of the prop even once it’s off the shaft is still a big problem- but if the prop is old enough to have this happen to it, it’s likely a mantle ornament anyways. 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 1:08pm
I don't understand the issue ether. The stuck key jobs I've done a couple did did get stuck on the threads but with the brass keys, the key takes more damage than the threads. Then a little tune up of the threads with one of these and you're back to good.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 1:25pm
| 0% chance of getting my most recent stuck key past the threads without the clearance job… the location within the taper where the key is stuck probably is a factor in whether it’ll sneak past the threads or not. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 1:30pm
So i guess now you finally understand the title and his problem
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 1:50pm
I never had any doubts and the reason my first question was what type of puller he was using. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 1:53pm
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Umm yeah .....Whatever you say
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Posted By: GTH852001
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 3:26pm
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This thought did pass through my mind, since I probably will need the shaft out to get the strut bearings out. Will the shaft come out with the prop still on it if the boat is on the trailer? Looks like it might not clear the trailer skid plate. Sorry no picture but I hope you know what I mean. Thanks, Greg
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Posted By: GTH852001
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 3:32pm
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TRBenj, That would do it, not sure I could make such a cut under the boat. I may try to pull the whole thing out as I wanted to change strut bearings too. Thanks, Greg
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Posted By: GTH852001
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 3:39pm
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8122pbrainard, I am using a three bolt (all thread) style puller. U shape (three threaded holes) behind the prop, with U over shaft and a round circle with three through holes on end of shaft/nut. I have the prop loose, it slides about 3/4" of an inch from operating position towards the back of the boat until the key hits the shaft threads. I have already buggered up the thread nearest the keyway from running the key into the threads. I guess I could pull it over the threads and clean up the threads later. Thanks, Greg |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 3:52pm
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Greg, If you can't move the key to avoid the threads then I feel you keep going with the 3 jaw puller is an option. The key should be brass so it will get damaged more than the threads on the shaft. Keep going and see what happens. The prop nut is there to seat the prop on the taper and not to hold it on so I don't feel that with some threads missing you will have a problem. Just make sure you lap the new or the old prop back onto the shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: GTH852001
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 4:21pm
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All, Thank you for all the suggestions! As I was considering replacing the prop too, any suggestions on where to find the best replacement prop prices online? Wakemakers? My Inboard Marine? Are the ACME 540 or 542 that much different? Thanks, Greg |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 4:31pm
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Acme seems to be the go-to manufacturer for props. Delta Propellers is (or used to be) a site sponsor, and is a good source. Also forum member Tim Benjamin (TRBenj) is an Acme dealer. Give them a call for prop advice. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2021 at 5:13pm
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Greg, Just as JQ mentioned, the Acme props sure seem to be the go to but alot depends on what you have now. If the present prop is a older cast/hand worked then you will definatly see a major difference. If you go Acme, they too recommend lapping their props to the shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-18-2021 at 6:05am
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GTH Post pictures of the shaft threads when you're done
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-09-2021 at 7:10am
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I guess GTH is having a real hard time getting the prop off or maybe he just "ain't ever gonna update this thread" I ran into one of these dismantling a boat a couple of days ago and had a shaft that looked at lot like TRB's picture when I was done
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Posted By: scootdogydog
Date Posted: June-09-2021 at 8:01am
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This is something that I encountered last year. The key split in half when I hit it out. 
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=7183" rel="nofollow - 1999 Python 1980 Ski Tique 1968 Mustang WIP |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-09-2021 at 8:33am
The key sheared because somone didn't install the prop correctly. I'd say it wasn't lapped to the shaft so all the torque was through the key. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |