351 pcm, model PRD WR R10

serial 223571

Screw down distributor cap.

At some point before i got the boat it was converted to electric ignition.

They spliced and hacked the harness all up, when i unravelled and disected it, some wires had melted.

Different size wires were twisted together and electrical taped.

On the rear of the engine next to the breaker is a white piece of plastic that i believe is a ballast resistor.

There is only 1 wire on it and it was cut and spliced into another bigger wire 

(from memory it's spliced into 2 wires all twisted together and melted)

This conversion has me stumped, i have to make a new complete wiring harness which is not a problem.

But;

I need a wirring diagram "or route if you will" to start and run the engine  every diagram online is points or different year with other electrical components or just to blury to read,  and cant identify the name brand to find electronic conversion installation instructions

Does it need the ballast or did they just jump it and use the wire on the engine.

Thank you

I should clarify this, i need from the battery to the engine to the key and back,

Everything to start run and charge the engine.

Gauges and accy's never get me stumped, it's always the ignition because that always seems to be hacked jumped and made to work somehow, i need it the right way, and im scratch building the harness.

Thanks guys

Here's a basic wiring diagram (courtesy of Tim)

The detail wiring of an EI ignition depends on who made it.

How about posting some pictures? 

 i will try to draw this out on paper (flow chart) assuming dash hot feed is accy's, dash switched feed is gauges and purple-green-red @ ballast are spliced with ballast removed. I think i see it.

Thank you again

Picture posting.........not exactly easy............just slip a picture or 2 or however many into your PN thread  and somebody could copy and paste them over here.

I don't think Nautique Jeff will charge any royalty fees or anything like that  

Before you start with wiring diagrams it would be good to know if you have the original 1979 externally regulated Prestolite alternator, whether you have an ammeter or a voltmeter, otherwise trying to follow one specific diagram  can get you all screwed up.

I think i got it but its showing upsidedown

I was hanging upsidedown from ole rickety when that pic was taken, this one i was laying on the deck of the

raceboat, that one i was falling off the ladder

I literally need it from a to b, from b toc, etc etc.

Since it was converted from point to electric along with all the hokey splicing on the engine and dash adds to the belief it was wired to run but not neccessarily correct or safe as the yellow butt joint spliced thing is melted.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated

Below is where the engine is,

This is what is like when i open the box

https://youtu.be/XBIZQcVMaNo

I dont think jeff would care, i guess correctcraft and planetnautique compete over advertising ? , but share members, it would suprise me if help wasn't coming from that direction to rebuild this site in some way.

He turns those boats around pretty good, that yellow and silver one is the tops

 

The module is a Prestolite module that's been out of production for a long time.

The alternator is a little hard to tell, but it looks like a Motorola or Mando from the 80's. They're basically the same alternator. They're internally regulated.

If you were to unplug the engine harness at the 8 plug connector and trash it all and replace it with the engine harness in the link below, life would be a lot easier.

http://skidim.com/wire-harness-elec-ign-ford.html" rel="nofollow - link

The price isn't terrible for what you get.

It works for your alternator and distributor but it's for a voltmeter setup not an ammeter. It gives a lot shorter more direct charging path to the battery with the ammeter deleted.

You'll probably have questions about the Red and Orange wires to the dash, or other questions too, but just ask 

The directions with the harness "leave a little to be desired" but if you were to follow the diagram below, you'd be doing good.

The alternator, ignition wire, choke wire connection can be at the ballast resistor or later on it was inside the wiring harness as shown.

Arco 70201 would be the part number for a reverse rotation 351 which is what your boat came with, but it would be good to verify the rotation before ordering a new starter.

Here's a drawing similar to the previous one, that shows the wiring a little better at the ballast resistor and shows the wiring for the PMGR starter which is a little different from the solenoid{starter relay} to the starter itself.

You'll have to rotate it and enlarge it 

There was no pin on the engine or dash side harness, it was all crimped taped jumped and hacked together.

The whole harness was cut loose and trashed minus what you see on the engine.

The gauges were trashed as well,  the new gauge package has a volt meter and is standard analog.

Was on skidim last night and seen the upgraded starter for this engine, they also have complete distributor w/ the correct coil.

Didnt know about internal/external isolated alternators so i will get some numbers off it for when i call skidim on monday.

If skidim has both sides of the harness it would save alot of time as scratch built harnesses are a labor of love.

 I think between all the help from you guys, new part tech help and skidim the harness will be 100%, the engine will fire and run good, hopefully there won't be any electrical gremlins to sort out.

Will defineately update you after the skidim order.

Thank You.

Here's a link to the Arco starter.

The list price is shown, but a little shopping will find them for 150 bucks or so at many places  

The engine to dash harness would be in the link below with their note that the dash end will have to be cut and hardwired, but that's no big deal to do.

http://skidim.com/wire-harness-10-extension.html" rel="nofollow - link