Fuel pump vent
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Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 1:08pm
Topic: Fuel pump vent
Posted By: JSConstruction
Subject: Fuel pump vent
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 12:13am
| Hey everyone, I just bought a Sierra marine fuel pump, but it didn’t come with a place to hook up the vent tube to the spark arrestor. There is a Allen key nut on the side. Was wondering if I can remove that and add a brass barb? Has anyone had a similar issue? Please go easy:) brand new boater here and far from a mechanic. But I want to learn. Thanks in advance! |
Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 5:05am
Well, howdy brand new boater  What's the part number of the pump that you bought? And.......what engine are you putting it on?
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 5:52am
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If it looks like the pump on the left in the picture, that has a black barbed fitting sticking out, then the pump is a Sierra version of the original way back when (in the 70's) AC dual diaphragm marine fuel pump and you can remove the plug and screw a fitting in there for your ruptured diaphragm hose. They originally had a little clear bowl that screwed in to that hole and gave a visual indication that you had a ruptured lower diaphragm The Sierra number equivalent to the pump on the left is 18-7274 and Sierra ships them with an Allen head plug in that spot. It's a marine pump for a Small Block Ford like a 302, 351 etc. There were other AC pumps with the same setup, but this is one example for you  |
Posted By: JSConstruction
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 7:37am
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Keno, thank you so much! It’s going on a Ford 351 commander, the pump I bought looks identical to the one on the left! You helped me out a ton! I kinda figured that spot where the Allen key is could be the ticket, but wanted to be sure. Don’t want the boat to catch on fire or worse. This site is pretty amazing, I could not find anything on the web. Thank you again. Joe |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 7:57am
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Glad to help Joe
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 4:49pm
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And here's what the original bowl looks like on the AC, complete with a little message that says "Replace fuel pump if gas appears in this bowl"  |
Posted By: JSConstruction
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 6:43pm
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Keno, now that looks pretty old school. I have read on the forums about the glass bowl fuel pumps, but never seen one. So thanks for that! I bought a 1986 ski nautique 2001 last summer, it has been nothing but problems so far. But trying to get all the bugs worked out on her. Just replaced the stingers, floor, flotation foam and carpet. Now on to the engine, last summer it would start great every time at the ramp, sit there and idle in the lake perfect. I would go pick my wife up from the dock and cruse over to this cool cove with no issues. But that’s when the troubles would start, after sitting for a couple hours she would struggle to start, she would die at low rpms in no wake zone a major struggle above 1500 rpms. So I bought a new quick fuel carb, a new fuel pump and new fuel lines. If the problem persists I guess it is electrical? Basically I have no idea what I am doing and trying to figure it out along the way. Hopefully we figure it out this summer! Thanks again for your help! Joe |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 6:57pm
Joe, You may be thinking about fuel pumps with intigrated glass bowls to catch sediment before it makes it up to the carb. It was basically a primative form of filtration.  The glass bowl Ken pictured is a early means of identifying a pump diaphragm rupture. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
JSConstruction wrote:Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 7:59pm
That's OK Joe, nobody else has any idea what you're doing either, but it sounds like you're off to a good start with what you're doing. Do you have a fuel filter/water separator in the fuel line before the pump. if you do, that's good, if you don't you should get one. Is it safe to assume that "struggle to start" means it turned over normally but just wouldn't start? When you do the QuickFuel installation pay attention to the gaskets on your spacer that's below the carburetor. A couple of these in the link below will help to ensure that you don't have a vacuum leak at the spacer. One would go between the intake manifold and the spacer and the other between the spacer and the carburetor. A lot of the aftermarket gaskets don't cover as much area and will allow a vacuum leak. http://skidim.com/gasket-carburetor-spacer.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZiFBhD9ARIsAGxFX8BCYKJ005WcXWAaGmo5o60C-umFtIPLMtGpj9Z5JMoD2e2fTxd1YzYaArHxEALw_wcB" rel="nofollow - link If in doubt about something, ask questions and/or search the forum (this forum) Ask before, not afterwards and good luck, and bring lunch on your cruises just in case. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 8:05pm
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By the way Joe, there's someone else on the forum from Santa Rosa I just can't remember who, but if you send user name "67ski nat" a PM he might fess up that it's him.
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Posted By: JSConstruction
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 8:34pm
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I installed a fuel filter/water separator last summer. The old fram filter literally had 3in. Of rust in the bottom of it. By struggles to start I mean it turns over but won’t start, takes about 15-20 tries and she finally gets going. But then runs extremely rough and dies out of no where. Where I am absolutely stumped is why its runs perfect in the beginning of the day and then after she sits for a bit starts to act up? It’s an unsolved mystery at this point. Thank you for the heads up on the gasket! Much appreciated! Joe |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 9:06pm
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Flooding ,the carb keeps dripping gas after you shut it off. When it's time to go the engine has too much raw gas in it. You should be good to go with that new one ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: JSConstruction
Date Posted: May-20-2021 at 9:52pm
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Gary S Thank you! I am praying it is the fix! Joe |
Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: May-21-2021 at 9:27am
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You may have to adjust the floats on the Quik fuel carb. Not difficult with the sight glass. When I put mine on it was still flooding until I got them set. Might have had to do with the angle the motor is mounted in the 1978. Hopefully yours is just bolt and go. ------------- 2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski |
Posted By: JSConstruction
Date Posted: May-21-2021 at 5:46pm
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Fanofccfan Thanks for the heads up! I have to find a fuel outlet for the new carb first. Unfortunately it doesn’t come with one. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-21-2021 at 6:47pm
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Your M-600 should have come with a brass adapter fitting. The threads in the body of the bowl are 9/16-24 and the fitting screws in and the other end of the adapter is 5/8-18 inverted flare female threads. What that does is let you use metal 3/8 brake line that comes with 5/8-18 male threads like your present fuel line that won't fit, so you can get some brake line and double flare it yourself or find a piece about the right length preflared with the fittings already installed and bend it to fit or you could buy a braided fuel line like in the link with the right 5/8-18 fittings on both ends and a 90 degree bend on the carburetor end. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rra-18-8115" rel="nofollow - link The ends will screw right into the carburetor adapter and also the fuel pump discharge adapter. It's USCG approved Some people will tell you to get metal, some will say rubber like this Some people have superhuman strength and think it's easy to double flare 3/8 steel line. With a high dollar hydraulic double flaring tool it's easy, otherwise you'll probably screw it up enough times to easily have paid for the Sierra rubber line. You can also use USCG approved Type A1-10 or A1-15 fuel hose with hose clamped barbed fittings at the carburetor and fuel pump and meet the USCG regs for resistance to fire. Some people get an Aeroquip type braided hose custom made that looks spiffy, but doesn't meet USCG regs for resistance to fire. The easiest but most expensive route is the Sierra rubber hose Just throwing some options out there so you can make a choice
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Posted By: JSConstruction
Date Posted: May-21-2021 at 6:53pm
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Keno, I was thinking barb fittings with marine grade fuel line. But I really like that Sierra fuel line. Thanks again! You have been a great help! Have a great weekend! Joe |
Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: May-22-2021 at 9:46am
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Welcome joe. We would love to see pics if you can figure the loading I’m in SR too. Boat at lake Sonoma of course. Maybe I’ll see up there someday |
Posted By: JSConstruction
Date Posted: May-22-2021 at 9:57am
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67 ski nat I am not the best at taking pics. I do wish I would have taken more during the stringer and floor process. Didn’t realize what I was in for, once I came to terms with the amount of work it really was going to be, I kinda just put my head down and got after it. We are at Sonoma all the time, we have a 86 2001 white and blue. Hopefully I see you out there, assuming I can get her dialed in haha. Have a great one Joe |