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'97 Teleflex (Seastar) Throttle control teardown?

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49927
Printed Date: November-14-2024 at 1:02pm


Topic: '97 Teleflex (Seastar) Throttle control teardown?
Posted By: slmskrs
Subject: '97 Teleflex (Seastar) Throttle control teardown?
Date Posted: June-20-2021 at 7:58pm
Has anyone done a tear-down of a Teleflex Throttle/shift controller?   I have a '97 project boat and this is one of the last remaining irritants.

The throttle has always been a little 'jerky' when you first move the throttle (after going into gear).  Not a problem pulling a skier in the course, but a pain when trying to teach someone to ski or get up on a wakeboard when you need really precise throttle control at low RPMs.  I replaced all cables when I got the boat 2.5 years ago, but the throttle wasn't any better, so a few months ago I replaced the throttle cable again with a larger diameter heavy duty one (that was supposed to make it smoother).  It helped a little, but still an issue.  No binding at the throttle body and no issue/problems with Perfect Pass.

In the past, I greased as much of the control as I could reach from underneath, but it still has a little hesitancy.  I'm in the process of dismantling it and am stuck with how to dismantle it further.  There's a spot on one of the sliding pieces where the metal is a little rough which I can sand smooth , but the real hesitancy is in the actual throttle shaft.



I looked at NautiqueParts and it's $400 for a new one, but I think it only needs lubrication internally.  My '96 had 1,600hrs when I sold it and it worked a lot smoother than this one (I'm at 1,110 put 200hrs on it at our course site).

Has anyone been able to tear into here and pull/grease this shaft?  This is where I think I need grease.  It doesn't look like a normal ring clamp, and I also see a pin that would have to be removed, and I don't see how that is possible since there are no slots or holes that would allow the pin to come out.


The unit is riveted closed, so I'm wondering if this is as far as I'm going to get.  If so, I guess I'll just have to get a new one (I'm anal about things working like new...).

Any suggestions (besides not telling my wife and spend another $460 ($400 plus shipping and tax) on this project?

Thanks,

Gordon


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Gordon '97 Ski Nautique, GT40



Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-20-2021 at 8:39pm
I posted this in the other thread too

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Sounds like you need to talk to Mpost since it sounds like he dismantled his.

The quote is from earlier in this thread.

Originally posted by Mpost Mpost wrote:

Looked thru my pictures and didnt have anything of the control in pieces. I do remember that the grease that was on the control was pretty stiff and sticky. dismantling and cleaning and adding new grease really helped a lot. 


Posted By: slmskrs
Date Posted: June-21-2021 at 12:43am
I'll ping him.  I thought he meant he dismantled all of the exterior parts, cleaned and re-greased and re-assembled, which is what I did today.  I just saw no way to open the "box" with all the innards.  I do feel an improvement (there was a slide with some rough edges and I filed it smooth), but it's not butter, and I'm pretty sure it's internal parts that have gunky old grease (or not enough).

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Gordon '97 Ski Nautique, GT40


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-21-2021 at 6:09am
I'm not sure what he meant, but this should get you an answer.

I have vague memories of drilling out the rivets on an old Morse control from an inboard outboard once.

I don't have any memories of it going back together for some reason Wink

I think I used it for parts


Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: June-21-2021 at 10:08am
Gordon,
    Are you gettting the jerky feeling in the throttle with the cables disconnected? As I said inthe PM I did not drill out the rivets. I did have issues with the brass connectors that I replaced, and if you do not get the cotter key bent correctly The new brass parts were too long and caused binding, so I went back to the old ones and everything was fine. 
  Here are some pictures. I had these posted back in 2018 when this happened but they got lost in the hack of the site. 

Original


New on the left, old on the right. 



New installed but too long, hits other arm and jams. 




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84 SN Sold   98 SN    Lund Pro V   1975 Alumacraft


Posted By: slmskrs
Date Posted: June-21-2021 at 10:54am
Originally posted by Mpost Mpost wrote:

Gordon,
    Are you getting the jerky feeling in the throttle with the cables disconnected? As I said inthe PM I did not drill out the rivets. I did have issues with the brass connectors that I replaced, and if you do not get the cotter key bent correctly The new brass parts were too long and caused binding, so I went back to the old ones and everything was fine. 

The teardown/clean/re-grease of everything (other than the box) improved everything, but I can feel some roughness in the throttle shaft (which is why I wanted to open the box to clean/re-grease it).  I suspect if I did drill out the rivets, I'd end up with spare parts as well.....  LOL

I got it back in and will test it this week.  Eventually I'll have to buy a new one, but good point on the replacement brass connectors.  My current ones look really good (I greased what I could from underneath before), so I'd just reuse them.


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Gordon '97 Ski Nautique, GT40


Posted By: JayG80
Date Posted: June-21-2021 at 11:53am
skiboatpartsonline.com has a good YouTube channel

Here is their video on Morse throttle.  Might gleam a little something from it.   https://youtu.be/9KNzQxpAeE4


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2007 Ski
2002 Ski



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