1972 Eating Batteries
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4997
Printed Date: October-05-2024 at 6:40pm
Topic: 1972 Eating Batteries
Posted By: Bhedbloom
Subject: 1972 Eating Batteries
Date Posted: October-15-2006 at 3:37pm
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My 1972 Correct Craft 302 ford has gone through three starting batteries this season. Any and all help would be appreciated.
Stats: * I use only starting not deep cycle batteries * battery reads 12.4V engine off * battery reads 12.1V engine at 1500rpm * battery reads lower volts after every trip to the lake until boat will not start. Alternator test w/ multi-tester at 1500rpm * with + on battery terminal and - on field terminal reading is 11.71V * with + on battery terminal and - on stator terminal reading is 11.67V I have had the alternator tested and the testing machine gave it the ok. I do have a newer voltage regulator from an auto parts store. My initial thought was bad alternator, but it checked out. Could it be the wrong voltage regulator for my engine? Any other ideas? Thanks! ------------- Barry, South Carolina |
Replies:
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-15-2006 at 4:20pm
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a correctly charging system while running you should see 13.5 volts, the voltage regulator could be a suspect, dont pull the cable while running, is the ragulator built into the altenator? if not possibly that it is why it tested good
with the key off you should read 12.69 for a fully charged battery once you fire it up rev the engine then check with voltmeter, it will always be higher than the 12.69 if operating correctly ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: October-15-2006 at 8:38pm
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Definately a charging issue. You should use a marine approved regulator anyways to be safe.
Jeff.... ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-15-2006 at 10:45pm
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When you say you've gone through 3 batteries, what has been wrong with them when you replaced them? Wouldn't take a charge? Let us know what you are seeing on the batteries when they go bad.
The reason I ask - if you were reading lower and lower voltage, and your voltage in general was under 13 when running, it could be a bad wire or connection and you simply aren't charging. The boat would start and run for a while, then the battery would run down but it would not be ruined, it would just need a charge. If the batteries are no good, and you aren't cooking them with over charging (as indicated by the low voltage readings), then I'd guess bad regulator. I just didn't think a bad regulator would ruin a battery with low voltage. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 7:30am
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i had a problem once where the voltmeter was at around 15 to 16 volts and kept cooking the batteries, it ended up being the volt. reg. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Bhedbloom
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 4:06pm
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63 skier.....the batteries will not take a charge and test bad.
I am just plain mystified as to why the voltage reading is so low across the battery with the engine running at 1500 rpm. Jeff Kostis had a good point about the marine voltage regulator vs. the automotive type. Do you all think that would make a difference in the voltage going to charge the battery? Thanks! ------------- Barry, South Carolina |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 4:41pm
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double post ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 4:42pm
A combination deep cycle/starting battery won't solve the problem, but will keep you from having to buy new batteries. ------------- |
Bhedbloom wrote:Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 4:47pm
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The marine vs. automotive won't make the difference for you by itself, the marine spec parts are just better shielded from producing sparks and so are safer running in an enclosed engine compartment. Either way you need the correct regulator, Jeff was just saying while you are at it get the safer marine parts.
I think you should install a new regulator and measure the voltage while running. If it is around 13.5-14.5 volts you probably have solved the problem. If not you'll have to replace the alternator. I hate advising you to do the "swap a part and check it" routine, it gets expensive, but at this point I have no other ideas. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 1:00am
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You said you have a newer voltage regulator, did you replace it or did the previous owner? Does the alternator look relatively new as well?
It could be you have an internal regulator in the alternator and don't need the external. Is this correct? Also, I'd check the voltage between the alternator output and the block with engine at idle and reved up. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 6:31pm
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screw all that
your just going to chase your self. Up-grade to a new internal regulated alternator from skidim and get the new wiring harness and fix the problem otherwise you are going to keep spending money and not fix it and still have to get a new alternator and wiring harness to fix it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 10:15pm
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the cheapest way out is to install a 1 wire GM alternator,i think vince sells them,no need for a new harness.just hook up main battery lead and go,can solve 2 problems,you either have a bad external regulator or harness issue or you have a bad alternator. with the GM its a bolt on and the added amperage,65 vs 43 amps is of no extra charge. this is what the boat dr is using and have retrofitted many IO and inboards to the one wire system............boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 10:17pm
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Replacing everything is OK, but can lead into other issues, such as eliminating the ammeter. If the existing wiring hasnt been played and is in good shape, take the alternator and regulator to a repair shop and let them test it. My old 76 302 had a issue, it had a bad diode, and cost me $87 to have it totally rebuilt and tested, including the regulator.
If you have some time and extra money to spend (or trying to run a large amp), go with the new one, or if you dont have a local repair shop. My .02... Jeff... ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 10:51pm
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dr; Does that 1 wire GM thing work on a Ford. Sorry if its a dumb question.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Bhedbloom
Date Posted: October-18-2006 at 1:02pm
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Answers to questions:
* Multimeter test: with the + on the alternator battery terminal and the - on the engine block my reading is 11.75 volts at idle and at 1500rpm * The regulator is not built into the alternator. * I replaced the voltage regulator soon after I purchased the boat because the old one had oil on the terminal ends and would heat up and smoke until the oil would burn off. Also, the previous owner went through batteries and I thought a new regulator would fix the problem. * I had the alternator rebuilt last summer. I am going to pull the alternator today and have it tested again just to make sure it has not gone bad. Thanks for all the input. Any more comments or suggestions? ------------- Barry, South Carolina |
Posted By: Bhedbloom
Date Posted: October-18-2006 at 2:50pm
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Just returned from having the alternator and the voltage regulator checked and they both test good.
Man........am I frustrated! I'm more stumped by this than anything I have ever encountered with these older Correct Crafts. Any and all additional advise is definitely welcome! ------------- Barry, South Carolina |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-18-2006 at 4:32pm
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Do what I suggested and be done with it.
I had the exact same problem did the exact same things other than charging the batteries instead of replacing them and as soon as I upgraded to the new alternator and harness from skidim it was fixed and never had the problem again. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-19-2006 at 9:51am
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jbear
there are no dumb questions on this site,on my 302 all i nad to do was drill out the bottom mounting bolt,1/2 in to 5/8in to bolt it to the port head. as far as the ammeter thing goes they scare me to death,running 50 amps from alt.to a guage under the dash then back to the solenoid is just asking for a problem,plus the risk of a fire in these old boats .old wire ,high resistance,lottsa amps= fire. my suggestion is a volt meter,it gives me more info, batt. voltage,not amperage that is going into the battery...........boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Bhedbloom
Date Posted: October-23-2006 at 2:56pm
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Thanks for all the help!
The mystery has been solved. The voltage regulator has 4 terminals F,S,A,I. All the terminals had a wire connected to them but the A terminal. The A terminal needed to go to the hot side of the starter solenoid. The original wiring diagram does not show this wire......... my other correct craft does not have this wire.........but that one wire did the trick..... I now show 14.2V across the battery while at 1500rmp. The previous owner may have taken the wire off and not replace it, or it may have never been there. Has anyone else experienced this little glitch? How about a three wire only system? My alternator rebuild shop said he has never seen a system where the A wire was missing and he has been at this for 20+ years. Anyway I had better hurry up and get her into lake again this weekend before winterizing. Thanks again everyone. I am always inspired by the friendly advise and helpful exchange of information on this site! ------------- Barry, South Carolina |