--Boat Stats-

1986

351 PCM (PLD-PR-L10) Firing order 13726548

PCM 40 Trans (1,0:1.0)

Everything tells me this is a LH or standard rotation engine

However, the prop (looking from the rear) spins clockwise.

How did I get here today. Well, I grabbed a new battery. Hooked everything up and get a click. Sounds like the starter. So I pulled it. Ran the numbers. Its not a marine starter, but rather a N613160B which comes back at O'Reilly's as a standard Ford starter (read- not counter rotation). So I have to assume someone has been monkeying around and not using marine components first... The plug wires have numbers written on them which also tells me someone's been monkeying around.

My big question- is there any chance the PCM 40 1:1 tranny spins opposite of the engine? 

So it's a project... Pretty rough shape. I started this weekend on her. Basically cleaning out years of pinestraw and critter stuff. ... Most of the latches and such were dismantled as someone was attempting to restore her. So I fixed some of that as well. I put power to het but failed at turnover and cranking due to a bad starter which sent me down a road of "what rotation" do I have. ... Concluding the engine is a standard (LH) rotation and the PCM40 trans redirects the shaft to spin CW from the stern. ...anyway, I will post progress and questions for the experts here. 

  If anyone knows anything about this Fish please let me know. 

From your tag

P     Pleasurecraft

L      Left Hand rotation (normal automotive)

D     351 Ford

P     Pleasurecraft transmission

R     reverse gear, means nothing more than the transmission has a forward and reverse gear  (other letters could be S for stern drive or V for V drive or J for jet drive and you don't have any of those things)

L      Left hand prop rotation

10    1 to 1 transmission ratio

Like Gary said I'd say, to find the engine rotation for sure, pull the distributor and look at the teeth on the gear. If they slant like this \\\\\\\\\\ it's reverse rotation and like this  /////////   would be normal LH rotation.

Or you could pull the distributor cap so you're looking at the rotor and turn the engine over with a 15/16ths socket and ratchet on the front crankshaft bolt while watching the rotor.

In your case having what seems to be a normal rotation engine, if you rotate the engine clockwise when looking from the front, the rotor should turn counterclockwise. (clockwise from the front is normal rotation)

Just remember, if you're turning clockwise from the front, that's counterclockwise from the rear

Some transmissions have equally strong forward and reverse gears and you can use the reverse side to drive it forward by changing the way the cable hooks to the throttle controller, but your 40 I is not built that way. Reverse is a lot weaker.  A Hurth ZF45A is one example of a transmission that can handle 100% power in forward or reverse

In your case, if the PO was using reverse to go forward, it won't last very long.

With the engine off you could shift the throttle controller into forward and then look at the selector lever at the transmission and see if it's in forward or reverse. If the lever is in reverse, then that's what he did.

If it's in forward, then the prop would be wrong.

Put it in forward and take a picture of the shift lever on the transmission

This might be confusing so I'd read it at least a couple of times anyways 

- I did receive this boat not running.... 

-After a battery charge and hook up- click or cathunka 

-Put a new battery, just because I wanted one, and to see if the lack of juice could be a problem- no change

-Since I was single handed, I couldn't feel around  while turning the key, so I went and got a new starter- no change

-With my son in laws help I could feel and tell the solenoid was clicking- bought new- Turns over great!

Side note- oil check golden/newer

-Removed floor boards- fuel line not hooked up but new. Had a priming bulb on it with newer line PO obviously trying to prime the fuel system. 

-Followed the fuel line to the "new" fuel filter (glass bowl with release for water) not mounted

- Continued to follow the line to the fuel pump- line not hooked up- hooked it up and put a clamp on it.

- Tossed the priming bulb and hooked up the line to the tank pick up.

- Primed the carb with fuel- Started right up. A lot of black initially in the exhaust, but cleared up quickly.

*Next issue- cooling system .... ugly

-I tore out the flush plumbing because it was garbage. 

- Installed new hose from hull intake to the trans cooler

-All new hoses on top

-New impeller (old one was fine though)

-Restarted using a 5 gallon bucket

If you run the engine and shift the lever by into Forward by hand since the cable is broken, does the shaft turn?

Choice number 1 would be yes it turns the same direction as the engine meaning it's pump is indexed correctly, and your RH propeller is the only issue.

Choice number 2 would be that the shaft doesn't turn at all which means the pump is indexed wrong and the transmission doesn't work because the pump isn't building any pressure.

Let's hope for choice number 1 

If number 2 is the answer, it means pulling the transmission will be needed so you can re index the pump to match the engine rotation

1. What is the confirmed engine rotation?

2. What is the trans rotation?

3. The prop as mounted should spin clockwise in forward, is that right?

Conclusion 1- video one (1) shows the engine spins clockwise looking from the front.

                      video one (1) shows the rotor turning counter clockwise

           So we have concluded without a doubt this is a standard or left hand rotating engine.

           Video 1 attached/linked (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcTXAM5Na0M)

Conclusion 2 - video two (2) shows me pulling the shift lever of the PCM 40 1:1 up first and the shaft          spinning counterclockwise looking from the rear. Then I push it down and it spins clockwise looking from the rear. (note- I have had a few inboards and reverse always has the extra "whiny" noise, and this sounds the same). So I think it is safe to conclude this PCM 40 1:1 does in fact spin counter clockwise or left handed as looking from the rear- same rotation as the engine.

Attached/linked video 2 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0SPgUc0dxM)

2nd video is my daughters iphone, not great quality, but it shows when I pull up on the trans lever, the shaft spins counter clockwise. It spins clockwise on the down lever. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXSqSodiPA4)

Conclusion 3- the prop is on backwards. I know I am over thinking this, but I find it hard to believe someone put a prop on backwards. All I can imagine is the PO took so much apart and then put some things quickly back together when he decided to sell and may have over looked this. 

Thoughts from the crowd?

This quote from KenO tells you what you need to know.  The metal tag on the engine states:  PLD PR L10.  So, unless someone switched engine tags, or put in a new engine with a different rotation, your engine is a LEFT rotation (as seen from the rear of the engine).  The propeller output shaft from the transmission is a LEFT rotation as well.  The PCM transmission is a 1:1 ratio and does NOT change rotation.  Assuming that the transmission is indexed properly, the prop should spin COUNTER-clock-wise in forward (when viewed from the rear of the boat).

As KenO also stated, the rotor in the distributor will turn COUNTER-clock-wise, regardless of engine rotation.  So...if the rotor is turning clock-wise, then you have the wrong starter or the wrong distributor gear.  The engine won't run, however, if the distributor is running backwards.

JQ

Because of the taper, it can't go on backwards, but I think you know that.

Everything in your videos says the engine is normal LH rotation, since it runs that way

Since it runs and it turns the shaft left, the transmission is indexed correctly also.

A LH prop of whatever size you need like a 14 by 10 or 11 as a guess and you'll be in business.

  ...today I attempted to figure out some of the the wiring... My goodness, nothing worked. About 10 wires went to the ignition switch... So, I have figured out the bilge pump and wired it correctly. It now works via float switch all times and then also switched for use when battery is on. I'll get to the Nav Lights next. ...and then the other 15million wires that do nothing, ahhh carambah...

But she did run for over an hour on the bucket purring smoothly today.

Problem at hand next work session- find the Nav Light wires. I can see them from the light socket, but once they go into the foam, I cannot relocate them. I may have to do a complete re-wire on those. 

I did have two wires I have yet to ID. They are brown and orange. I traced the orange form a switch panel going to the wiring harness then cut off past the connect. The brown wire was in a fuse block going to nada, also traced back to the harness and cut just past the connect. Searching wiring diagrams as we speak.

No help on the wiring, but you must get tired from twirling the wing nut on that extra looong stud for the flame arrestor 

Rudder- so the Fish Nautique has a 1.5" ruder shaft. I just watched Ron Tanis on a video rebuilding one in an American Skier. However, he doesn't sell 1.5" seals. Any idea where I can get a rudder rebuild kit for the Fish Nautique?

Progress- Removed the tank so I can get to the rudder and rebuild. Also pulled other items like the battery box so I can pull the shaft and put in a new log, packing and cutlass bearings. Absolutely filthy. So here it is after hours of vacuums , scrubbing and washing.

And my final request for information tonight... Hopefully the pix don't rotate again. Inside the bilge I have two fittings I need help with. 

1. Is obviously a depth sounder (I am almost positive). If you look, the cable remains and could feasibly be reconnected. Does anyone have any info on the head unit, or could this possibly be a universal transponder that I could splice back into? Any further insight would be appreciated. **on the underdside this is the arrow shaped part**

2. On the inside of the bilge the second highlighted part is odd. From the underisde it is a thru hull. Weird. Any ideas what it is or was?

Propeller status- got the prop off, with a lot of persuasion.

And, if you can believe it, it was on backwards. 

Now that I have gotten up close and personal under the hull, I realize the prop was further back with the castle nut, no pin. I don't think the PO hammered it on, but he tightened the heck out of it.

Pix show- 14 x 11 x 1-1/8 Lcup

The shaft looks ok, but I would love to hear from the experts.

....Image upload has become too troublesome. Am I the only person that is having this issue? They were working at one point. 

Last time I tried to put a 1 1/8 inch taper bore prop on a 1 1/8 tapered shaft like you have, it was physically impossible to even get the hole in the prop started on the taper. It fits over the threads but not onto the taper.

That was about 15 minutes ago so it's pretty fresh in my mind 

You and a pile of other people have problems with pictures on this site. Like in your case, what worked one day, may take multiple tries with various different error messages

Here's a picture of your prop from earlier in the thread. Not the clearest, but at least in this picture it looks like a normal older RH rotation prop that slid up the shaft to where it should be.

If you e mail the pictures to keno439@ gmail.com, I'll try to post them here for ya'

Does the L cup not mean Left rotation. Or did I make a big assumption?

Shined up a bit

Gonna get this cleaned up

Inside of the prop after pulling it. 

The newer engine has 3.5" exhaust so I think I am going to source 3.5in exhaust tips.

I don't have mufflers for the 3.5in, but I think I want to go straight pipe anyway. I enjoy the loud pipes.

It looks like it says 14X11 1 1/8 NI-BRAL cup and the stamping is on the end of the hub that should be closest to the strut when installed.

So the L is just the last letter of Nibral  

You can also see where the hub has been hammered on in a few spots.

Can we confirm that the prop was not on backwards, that it's a RH prop that for some strange reason was installed?  Like Ken said I don't think you could force a tapered prop on backwards far enough to thread on the nut, but unlike Ken I've never tried.  Of all the aspects of the project this is a small once since you just need to find the correct prop.

Looking good with the cleanup!  If it was me I'd go straight pipe too, only question on that would be if you plan to fish the boat, trolling a lot, if you think the noise would get to you.  Do you plan on ocean or lake use?

Did I miss that you are putting a different engine in the boat?

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50453&KW=&title=solenoid-relay-wiring" rel="nofollow - link

Johnnie's pictures in the linked thread seem to have disappeared 

Yes sir, KENO was right (I can't ever recall him not being right...) It is the wrong prop. After he mentioned the inability to get the taper on, I, just coincidence, have the shaft and prop in my garage. I went and checked, and sure enough, the prop will not go on backwards. The tapered end will not go past the threads at all. ...I was sure it was on backwards, it made sense. I got so excited that I spent a few hours cleaning it and the rudder. I've got brasso and white vinegar everywhere.

Here is a couple pics of my 87. Deck heights were lower in the earlier years. Some also had fuel tanks in the stern. Mine has a removable deck in the back of boat to access fuel tank. I think spicing transducer wires is frowned upon. 

...well a funny thing happened to my console after I got back in country....

Note it is a GT40 351, but had been configured back to a carb. It runs well with a fuel line into the gas can in the bilge.

please look... https://photos.app.goo.gl/QRRseKUQbbrNrT127

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50453&KW=&title=solenoid-relay-wiring" rel="nofollow - link

  Yes sir, it is mechanical. I start her up often now that the engine is back in. She fires right up as is and stays running. I am waiting on some new brackets this week and then I will put the fuel tank back in. 

Thanks for the info. I was hoping I did not need one. ...Still a Youtube mechanic, ha!

Good thing that was an older HO GT engine. the newer ones had the fuel pump eccentric omitted from the cam gear.

Had a customer go through two fuel pumps on a carb converted newer GT engine..... pumps would not prime LOL. he kept telling me the pumps were bad?? I had to ask what engine he had. long story i explained the eccentric omit to him..wound up utilizing the electric pump and original mount bracket..

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPH-rIt6X0bADUEprurtYqXWTKnAVGHKrBVi8vX7OucIDRL88NcVVwT10qklk-JPw?key=VE02OE5FTWkwNFJRYVlYcG1fVjN2SHQ5dXNkZkdn" rel="nofollow - Shared album - Johnnie Messer - Google Photos

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNXbZ18AnXdDBD26zeXZB2tY20G3UpCmlMU67dd0VOjoID7sznGZXGHs9AVd7pyPQ?key=N3JLdEF6ZEZhdjlWNjYwZjBZZ1g0RmV4cDVvR3pB" rel="nofollow - Shared album - Johnnie Messer - Google Photos