Leaky Exhaust Hose Problem
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50304
Printed Date: January-15-2025 at 9:44pm
Topic: Leaky Exhaust Hose Problem
Posted By: Otto Throttle
Subject: Leaky Exhaust Hose Problem
Date Posted: October-12-2021 at 9:31am
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When putting to bed my girl yesterday I noticed the port side exhaust hose leaking on the fiberglass tube side. I tried to tighten but it didn’t work, almost made it worse. I have not had these apart so I don’t know if there is a sealer between the hose and the fiberglass tube. Any ideas for a fix or do I need to replace the hose? If so what size for the 1999 carbureted model, and does anyone have a procedure for changing it out? I just don’t want to do a hack job!!! Thanks in advance! Otto ------------- Otto |
Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-12-2021 at 12:03pm
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If you try to tighten it too much, you'll crush the fiberglass tube. You wouldn't be the first one (or the last one) to do this  You'll have to get the hose off and inspect the end of the tube and you may be making tube repairs or replacing it.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-12-2021 at 1:37pm
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Here's a link to something similar and there are a link or 2 in that thread too that you can read also . http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43183&title=water-leak-in-the-exhaust-system" rel="nofollow - link
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Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-12-2021 at 6:42pm
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After fowllowing Kens link to my post from 2018 I see I never updated the post. The following spring I took out the fiberglass down pipes to repair them for the seepage. They were toast. Mushy on the ends and lots of fiberglass matting and strands hanging inside of them. I suspect the a PO maybe overheated it at one time. Replaced all the hoses too. The hosees came off fairly easy with some heat from a hair drier and little prying. I removed the doghouse and flooring to make things more accessible. I dont have a picture of the tubes but still have them somewhere and could ge ta pic if need be. I ill go back and update my post with my resolution. ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-12-2021 at 6:49pm
Better late than never on the update 
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Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: October-14-2021 at 11:01pm
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I would appreciate any help and picture too! I do have a few questions though and if someone who has done this could chime in I would be thank full! 1) what ID hose on my 1999 SN? 2) can I cut the hose to the same length as the old one? 3) what is best way to trim hose to length? 4) can I lube up the hose on the inside and not take anything else apart while installing the new hose? 5) how can I tell if my fiberglass down tube is shot? 6) where is best place to buy this hose, is it a standard length? 7) what is this swirl I saw a post about that is coming out of the exhaust manifold and what do I have to watch out for? 8) do most of you replace the down tubes since they are so old too? Well answers and pictures to those questions should make me dangerous enough for now! I am sure I will do both sides... gluten for punishment! Otto ------------- Otto |
Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: October-14-2021 at 11:10pm
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Also mine is the carbureted version with the gt 40 heads, so I think that is HO engine? ------------- Otto |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-15-2021 at 7:15am
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It looks to me like you're making some assumptions here Otto, like that the hose is what's leaking If you take the hose off, most of your questions will get answered, then you can figure out whether you need hose, downtube repair or replacement or both when you put your eyeballs on everything I'd look at SkiDim or Nautiqueparts for some 3.5 inch non wire reinforced exhaust hose as a start and you can find new tubes at Nautiqueparts.if you look at earlier links in this thread. You're a big boy, you can do this  The swirls were to give better cooling to the exhaust gases as the exhaust and water mixed.
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Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-15-2021 at 10:41am
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Sorry but I dug for my old tubes and I must have thrown them. Mine were leaking thru the fiberglas and once I saw the inside I didi not try to just add more fiberglass on the outside. As Keno said you will know a lot more when you take them off. The more you take apart the easier it will be. I dont know if you could get the hoses off or back on the top of the pipes to manifold if you did not loosen clamps and hose at the bottom. When installing new hose I used dawn dish soap and water to lubricate things and was fairly easy with the muffler, pipes, and all loose clamps. I also cleaned up the scaling on the output of the manifolds to get better water flo over the swirling parts.   ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-27-2021 at 3:23pm
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Otto, Was cleaning out a cabinet in my shop and found the old tubes. Hear is a picture of why I replaced mine.   ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: October-27-2021 at 6:40pm
    ------------- Otto |
Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: October-27-2021 at 6:41pm
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So can I repair the outside enough to be useable?????? It would be a spare anyhow...got two new tubes and hose! ------------- Otto |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-27-2021 at 7:13pm
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Wow that is colapsed. Is that where the hose clamp was? Or did somebody kink it when trying to ceg hose on. I suppose you could build up the outside, but I think the exposed and cracked stuff inside is going to get worse with use. And maybe affect the swirling of water in the tube???? Maybe Im over thinking it. Mine looked fine on the outside other than I had sepage due to the inside falling apart.  ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-27-2021 at 7:16pm
A little sand paper and some Elmers and she'd be good as new.
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Mpost wrote:Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: October-27-2021 at 7:33pm
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Yes that was on the outside. The inside diameter is basically good. No if I could refiberglass the inside or use marine Tex and sand it smooth. I thought it was odd too, the starboard side is not like that. I was thinking of scanning in the dimensions of the new ones, and having some stainless tubes made! ------------- Otto |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-28-2021 at 5:26am
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Let's see here Otto, the port side was leaking and you tightened down some more and it almost leaked worse according to your first post. Maybe somebody before you tightened it down enough to do the damage in your port side picture or maybe you did it, but it sure looks like it was from somebody being heavy handed on the hose clamp
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: October-28-2021 at 8:19am
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Martin that looks like manufacturer defect, the glass appears only half wetted, tapering to barely wetted at 10-11 oclock ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: October-28-2021 at 9:19am
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Learning a lot... sorta fun.... SORTA! I am going to look at muffler too... how many people have had holes in their mufflers too? Is there a general consensus on not using a sealant between hose and fiberglass tubes? ------------- Otto |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-29-2021 at 7:48am
Your right I had not noticed that before. Otto, I would not want to try and remove a hose that had any type of sealant on it  They are not different than any other type water hoses on engines. Make sure your part you are attaching the hose to is clean and smooth as possible and the clamps should do the rest of the work. (Unless the hose is damaged and in need of replacement.) I did some fiberglass work on the muffler on mine due to it almost being worn thru on the bottom due to the rubber strips not beeing under the muffler anymore. When I took it out the rubber pieces were just laying in the bilge. I put them mback in with 3m contact cement.  ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-29-2021 at 12:48pm
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I think this is a common occurrence on this type of exhaust, my Sport is/was doing the same. I think the PO over heated at one time and like Ken said just tried cranking the clamp tighter which crushed the fiber structure. Or it could be that it’s over 20 years old and is just breaking down from the friction and heat cycles and when it started to drip the clamp was over tightened one to many times. I fixed the worst side but will be doing the other side in the spring before hitting the water. I also thought about a set of stainless ones but I don’t want it any louder than it already is. (It’s much louder than my ‘95 was) with the big muffler on the back of the motor. |
Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: October-29-2021 at 1:36pm
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Mpost.... Thanks for the picture! I see a complete exhaust exam is in order. There was a you tube video about a guy fixing his exhaust muffler that was wearing through. Thats what I am going to do. How does the center section floor come out so I gain access to the muffler? ------------- Otto |
Posted By: Otto Throttle
Date Posted: October-29-2021 at 2:24pm
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here is a link to that video....look what they had for the rubber strips! https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=Ly8WjL1s15Y ------------- Otto |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-29-2021 at 6:37pm
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On my 98 SN I just removed the dog house from floor via the rubber hinges.. Then the rear seat bottom and then the floor section just lifted out. ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: October-30-2021 at 7:00am
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I can appreciate all your repairs talk and suggestions, But I really think you would want to replace that kind of failure with NEW. Do not patch it Someday you might have a lot of water in bilge before you know it |