What caused this, impact or age?

How deep is the wound? 

You can stuff in some epoxy with little micro-balls in it...I think it comes in a kit. Just mix it up and stuff it in. Looks like an air bubble in the layup process.

Dry?

https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/applying-polyester-gelcoat-over-epoxy/" rel="nofollow - Applying Polyester Gelcoat over Epoxy - Epoxyworks

Yep, some cheaper epoxy brands have more variability in their product. Excessive amine blush is a pain! I vacuum bag hydrofoil boards, so I spend the bucks and stick with West Marine epoxy. Some epoxies just seem to ooze amine.

Example 1:  When visiting the factory in 1984, I saw the hulls that had been recently removed from the molds and filled with expanding foam. Workers would use ordinary handsaws on the flat to 'saw' the foam level over the top of the stringers, before the glass floor was laid.  Literally dumpsters full of foam scraps-that s%t was everywhere!

Example 2: I produced a very early (perhaps the first) removable swim platform brackets for the 2001. (out of necessity). Hence the trip to the factory in '84. Back home I installed several sets. Upon removing the outside port bracket, water flowed out seemingly endlessly from the bolt holes of a customer's new '84.. The owner was not impressed.

Example 3: After meeting our local promo team, I learned that the head of the team would mix up small cups of epoxy and go around the bilge filling voids along the base of the stringers and forward bulkhead. Small wonder why the need for stringer jobs. 

Probably no better/worse than other boats of the era. 

I'm gonna guess your wife told you to keep your thumb away from her stern. 

I've seen a few...like I said, no better, no worse. 

indeed, I've owned 8 Correct Crafts (including current 2) and 1 Supra. Oh, and a Dunphy woodie. (This over 50 years)

Hopefully that speaks to my preference in ski boats...

My preference, regardless of the audience, has been Ski Nautiques. I admire them for their design and over-the-water performance more than any other attributes. In my experience (perhaps different than yours), I find them to be built to the standards of the day. I still like them. I buy them. I restore them, and tinker with them like many here. 

I hope we can be friends...

First off that is common across all fiberglass parts in sharp corners/edges especially in a production part.

Unless a brand new nautique is vacuum infused you'd find them there as well.

My opinion is thickened epoxy in a small syringe, shove the syringe into the hole as far as possible 2, 3, 4 times or as many times it takes until your confident the air has been pushed out.

Ive done it many times using west 610 injected with a mixing tip directly into the syringe filling it up, putting the plunger in and repeating the process.

The 610 has a 45 minute work time, it cleans up easy, it sands easy, it's consistent and waterproof.

One stop into west marine or maybe even amazon and you've got all your materials to do this.

Personally don't like marine tex at all 

I vote #3 cause its cheap and easy and was probably my idea. 

So i went back and read all the posts instead of being lazy reading the first few.

Time money and end result are your considerations ;

Option 1 will cost 100 150 bucks because you cant get those items in small supplies and theres no mention of the consumables need to pull that off, no mention of how much time it'll take either.

Option 2 never heard of that epoxy or what quantities it comes in but when cabosil and gelcoat are mentioned we're back at some cost and consumables again. Don' t forget mixing to consisency and the mess in all 3 options.

Option 3 is to thick all that will happen is a surface repair with an air bubble behind it. Also think it's a bondo product so it mixes that way dries fast, no working time too thick to smoodge in there etc etc.

The west 610 is 2 part epoxy in a tube already thickened but very workable, it comes with a static mixer, 

Pull the plunger on a west marine sryinge stick the static mixer in there fill the syringe pulling the static tip out to minimize mess and air bubbles, insert the syringe deep as it can go and slowly fill the void. Repeat the procss with the  syringe all the way in until obviously it doesnt need to go that far then slowly fill the rest of the void.

No mess, only consumable is the static tip and plastic syringe.

Let it dry over night, wash wipe the blush off with a rag from the kitchen sink, scuff it with 80 grit and it will take gelcoat, if you want it finished.

Out the door in 15 minutes( overnight to dry) for under 50 bucks, no mess, no pouring, no mixing, no measuring, no dangerous fumes (vynil ester)

No breathing fumed silica or whatever the hell it is (cabosil).

If i had a hole other than the one in my head a picture is worth a thousand words as they say.

Keno, ive been way out on safari way over there but now just way under the radar for a bit.