1978 Ski Nautique Restoration
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51083
Printed Date: December-02-2024 at 12:46pm
Topic: 1978 Ski Nautique Restoration
Posted By: NeilMcG
Subject: 1978 Ski Nautique Restoration
Date Posted: April-06-2023 at 3:52pm
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To stop creating thread after thread for every issue that comes up, I'm starting this one for everything related to this project Brief history: '78 Nautique w/351 RH restoration -2 years in. It was in very bad shape including a fried engine. Got a block from an '80 and sent off for machining. It's a stock rebuild. Installed new flooring and reinforced the stringers. Re-upholstered w/new carpet. All new gauges, including new wiring using bus bars up front. Dual GPS speedos as well. If time permits, the outside will get a makeover too. Gelcoat, paint and 2k clear is ready to go. Even got a transom stencil made. The pre-assembly checklist appears complete but one thing that wasn't considered was the circulating pump. What is the service life for this part and can a visual inspection tell you anything? And what about an auto one? |
Replies:
Posted By: 1980SN2001
Date Posted: April-06-2023 at 5:17pm
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I don't know what the expected service life on these are but I do believe it has to be a bidrectional unit due to your engine being reverse rotation. I ordered this one from Skidim.com for my 1980 Ski Nautique with the reverse rotation 351W. https://skidim.com/circ-pump-ford-bi-rotational.html" rel="nofollow - https://skidim.com/circ-pump-ford-bi-rotational.html
------------- 1980 SN Project |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-07-2023 at 12:12pm
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Here's a picture of the inside of one with the backing plate off. It's a bi rotational impeller in the picture The bearings are usually the thing that gives out first and the cast impeller lasts a long, long time. The bearings just last a long time  You can spin it by hand to do a rough check of the condition of the bearings. If it's smooth and not noisy, I'd probably reuse what you have if your budget is getting strained https://ibb.co/vBGJxnY" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-12-2023 at 6:59pm
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WATER FUEL SEPARATOR Inside the filter housing there is a spring wrapped around the center post. It is heavily corroded and while cleaning I noticed the spring is free floating. Is that the way it should be? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-13-2023 at 11:45am
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How about a picture of this thing?
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Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-13-2023 at 2:11pm
I've tried but have no clue how. Where's Mr. Incredible when you need him? I'll text a pic. |
KENO wrote:Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-13-2023 at 5:10pm
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Pictures...............see the link and read the 2 posts on 2/7/23. I'm pretty sure you can handle it. https://ibb.co/Cw8NfJx" rel="nofollow">
 It looks like your filter is the old Fram type that has a replaceable filter element and the spring keeps the filter element seated against it's sealing surface when everything is assembled. It prevents having any flow bypass the element. I'd replace the whole thing with a filter kit like in the link below You get the adapter and filter You need to get a couple of hose barb fittings to screw into the adapter. Usually 1/4 inch pipe threads. http://www.google.com/search?q=sierra+marine+fuel+filter+kit&sxsrf=APwXEdc0b7TBCbTwcvR7PHW2rEkrJAyo4g%3A1681419463184&ei=x2w4ZLXxCpewptQPzuuD4AI&ved=0ahUKEwj18MjO36f-AhUXmIkEHc71ACwQ4dUDCA8&oq=sierra+marine+fuel+filter+kit&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQDDIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCOgcIABANEIAEOgYIABAHEB46CAgAEIoFEIYDOgQIABAeOgYIABAWEB46BQgAEIAEOggIIRAWEB4QHUoECEEYAFAAWNg_YMxQaABwAHgAgAF4iAGVCJIBBDEwLjKYAQCgAQHAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz-serp" rel="nofollow - link The linked one is a Sierra but there are plenty of other brands The whole filter and housing are one piece like the typical oil filter, so you unscrew the old one and screw the new one on. More convenient, less messy Replacements are easy to find and most brands will fit the adapter threads.
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Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-13-2023 at 7:14pm
...and after I spent the evening cleaning and polishing it up 😂 |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-14-2023 at 9:17am
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Did a '78 Nautique have a fuel filter/separator from the factory? I was guessing it was probably added but not sure. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-14-2023 at 9:53am
I really don't know. But as it's the only filtering element , I assume it's original. |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-14-2023 at 12:16pm
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SHAFT/ENGINE ALIGNMENT I'm researching quite a bit on this subject; the ccfan youtube video is outstanding. The marina that pulled the engine cited an oddity with alignment, but couldn't recall exactly what it was when I was finally able to go retrieve the engine, so I expect a problem right off the bat. Any advice on what to what to look for, and how to address problems that arise? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-14-2023 at 9:49pm
Well, nobody says you have to get a new one
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Posted By: wayoutthere
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 12:22am
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Far as alignment goes, ron tanis has some very good videos on the subject. Start fresh with new cutlas bearings in the strut. Hopefully not but expect a bent shaft, or strut. Alignment is critical but easy to achieve if you know the basics and all of the parts are in good order, and you got solid stringers. I'll try to dig up a picture of the procedure. Does the boat have new stringers ? Who put them in ? All things being equal, the traditional alignment you read and watch videos about is just the accepted method, but alignment is alignment and there are other ways to achieve it. Get some pictures up, there's great wealth of knowledge on this site and plenty of members who can advise you on any help you may need https://youtu.be/UEqzJgCz_6w |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 1:09am
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My 1978 Ski Nautique had a fuel filter/water separator mounted passenger side of the engine down low on the stringer under the fuel pump. I bought the boat in 1982 but assume it was factory stock. ------------- |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 7:35am
The stringers weren't replaced as they're in remarkably good shape; and I was actually unaware of any relationship between the two. Quite surprisingly, the rot did not propogate throughout so it was easy to localize. I exposed the bad areas with pilot holes and poured a pmma acrylic solution in multiple stages until saturated with the fluid pooling at the top. Those areas now are hard as rock. I definitely dodged a bullet there. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 12:53pm
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I did the same in my 1987 Malibu, found small rot area under the engine mounts, drilled holes, first poured in a product bought at the lumber supply designed to kill rot, really stinky stuff. Let that soak in to treat the old wood then filled it as you did with some type of recommended epoxy. That area was still hard and good when I sold the boat 10 years later after hundreds more hours use. ------------- |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 2:58pm
I was thinking of using bigger lags for a greater purchase into the stringers. What are your thoughts on also filling the bores with epoxy putty and using 5200 under the brackets? |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 3:21pm
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Can you through-bolt it? I prefer through-bolts to lags if possible I would then bed the bolts in 3M 4200. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 4:05pm
I thought the only difference with 4200 was cure time. Is it a more friendly version too? |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 4:19pm
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5200 is bomb-proof. Very difficult to remove. 4200 is less "permanent". Still the same high-quality 3M below-the-waterline sealant, just not so stubborn if one needs to remove it. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 7:16pm
Since you have 8 mounting lag bolts that go vertically into the stringers (no cradle), it would be kinda tough to use through bolts without quite a major redesign of the stringers.. |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-15-2023 at 9:37pm
I was thinking a thru-bolt running horizontal in addition to the vertical lags.There's a pre-drilled hole at the bottom of the bracket that's center to the holes on the flange resting on the stringers, so a bolt could pass through without interference. The only thing it would need is a piece of flat bar on the outer side with a drilled hole for the bolt to pass through to distribute the load once tightened. But the stringers are now quite solid so it's ok. The only debate left is deciding what matrix to put in the bore holes...epoxy putty, peanut butter, 4200 etc. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-16-2023 at 3:05am
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4200 is easier to work with after it hardens. 5200 is harder, in my thoughts stronger but a bugger to work with once hard. Since I was able to remove my strut factory applied with 5200 I chose to stay with it and 5200 was applied when I re installed the strut. Many use 4200 because it is more friendly to work with. ------------- |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-16-2023 at 8:08am
Nobody's stopping you from putting 4 horizontal lag bolts in with your choice of sealer if you're so inclined. CC was never so inclined though when they built it. |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-16-2023 at 11:25am
| That's a relief. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-17-2023 at 12:00pm
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I've long been surprised that the thrust from 240 and more HP inboard drives didn't wreak more havoc with lagged motor mounts. I'd have thought that all that force forward, at the upward angle, would tend to work at the mounts more than it seems to in actual application. Through bolted cradles seem like a good upgrade but then again all these boats, assuming decent stringer condition, seem to survive just fine with the oem mounts. So I'd probably just do the same-old mounts over again. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-22-2023 at 2:10pm
What's your opinion regarding installing a new coupler? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-22-2023 at 7:11pm
Only if you think or know the old one is bad, unless you're just kinda sadistic and enjoy doing miserable jobs, that may or may not go right |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-22-2023 at 7:35pm
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Only if you think or know the old one is bad, unless you're just kinda sadistic and enjoy doing miserable jobs, that may or may not go right  How does one know it's bad? I'm already in recovery for sadism, and the romance of tackling miserable jobs is diminishing by the hour. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-22-2023 at 7:44pm
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If the old one was tight as hell it is probably perfect. If you got it off with no problem the center hole is loosening up and it is shot. There is probably a spec you can measure with a Mic to verify but tight on removal is good. ------------- |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-22-2023 at 7:50pm
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If the mounting flange is warped gouged, not concentric or if the coupler is loose on the shaft..............it's bad It's a heat shrink interference fit Here's some reading in the link http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25700&PN=1&title=coupler-removal-and-install" rel="nofollow - link Plenty more with a search too
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Posted By: wayoutthere
Date Posted: April-22-2023 at 8:16pm
My opinion on a new coupler ; spend 600 bucks and get the dual taper shaft and coupler to go along with the new cutlas bearings and hdpe stuffing box. Hand adjustable instead of 2 big pipe wrenches. Heres why; -an hour of changing nuts bolt washers and spacers to pull the original coupler off sucks almost as bad as oven heating and mig welding gloves to put the coupler back on the shaft only to find out after all your hard work theres a bent shaft and you have to break out the nuts bolts washers and spacers again. -even if the original coupler is perfect i'd bet there is some wear on the shaft from the stuffing box and strut. -the dual taper shaft is a breeze to install/remove making stuffing box and cutlas bearings in the future a much easier job. -it was priceless for me when it came to alignment because i had to solve it in a way other than the traditional method. https://skiboatpartsonline.com/ARE-Shaft-ARE-0035 https://skiboatpartsonline.com/stuffing-box?search=Stuffing%20box After your happy with alignment Remember to torque the new coupler to the transmission in a north south west east pattern and diveide final torque by 3 or 4 and make that number of passes to final torque i.e if torque is 30 ft pnds make 3 passes 10 20 & 30 don't just slam it together and tighten them up. |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-22-2023 at 8:20pm
Each side is still on and I haven't fiddled around with it yet. I'm assuming the key variable based in what you wrote is the purchase e.g. integrity of the interference fit. What am I measuring with the mic? |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: April-22-2023 at 8:21pm
Ah...ha. thank you! |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: May-19-2023 at 10:29pm
OIL PAN DILEMMA !!!!  While hoisting the '78 351 RH into position for parts harvesting, the straps broke. Fastest damn quick drain method you'd ever see. The good news is the concrete is fine. The pan from the '80 doesn't inspire much confidence as a sub. It's been repainted twice with a third layer consisting of a rubberized film, perhaps bed liner. The skin is wrinkled from over-torque and about 1/3 of the surface is lathered in JB Weld. Why is an standard stamped steel pan for a 351w $85 but over $500 when searching part # R005004? Is it a RH seals thing, drain plug location or general geometry? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-20-2023 at 8:03am
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What are you looking at for an oil pan to replace it with.? I'd probably read the thread linked below for some ideas http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42437&title=351-oil-pan-comparison-pictures" rel="nofollow - link Cross referencing the numbers can find you some cheaper prices in the 70 dollar range.
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: May-20-2023 at 9:13am
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My ‘marine’ pan is aluminum (corrosion resistant?) And holds 8 quarts (cooling ? ) Slight mopar improvement Just things to consider |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: May-20-2023 at 1:27pm
Thanks. As long as it'll fit 😀 |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: May-20-2023 at 1:37pm
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Someone might disagree with me, but I've never heard of any issues with a standard capacity pan on a 351. No need to cool oil in a marine application like ours and 351's don't have a tendency to suck the pan dry. So not sure I'd bother with an 8 quart pan for this engine. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: May-20-2023 at 1:38pm
Just searched "351w oil pan." Summit has them under $100, but after searching the OEM # R004005 with price tags of $400 and up, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something that might be unique to PCM or correct craft. I think your link will answer this though. Captain Ken comes through again. |
Posted By: NeilMcG
Date Posted: February-05-2024 at 2:57pm
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Just a quick update on what will hopefully be the last stage in this rebuild. Engine long block is all done, which was the most challenging part. Found a place in Pittsburgh for final assembly as it's a three hour round trip to where it is now. However the door width is 8ft and I can't remember the total width with trailer. Think that will be enough?  |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-05-2024 at 8:20pm
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Since it's am 8 foot door, the opening is probably a few inches less due to finishing trim. Somewhere, sometime a long time ago, I think I remember backing a same vintage SN on it's factory trailer through the opening for an 8 foot door with at least an inch or 2 to spare on each side Trailer width was the limiting factor, the boat is 76 inches wide but fender width is quite a bit more Somebody must have some measurements around here TRBenj is usually good for trailer info. Or............maybe you need to start a new thread with a title like " How wide is a #3 trailer from the 70's?" This is all assuming it's on a CC trailer built for the boat
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Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: February-08-2024 at 9:47am
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I can try to measure tonight. My thoughts would be the load guides might have to come off and it just might squeeze in. Ill try to remember to measure it. ------------- 2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-08-2024 at 6:28pm
| See the other thread |