JQ

How about a brand and part number for these new springs that may or may not be the right ones for your application

PS.................. In your last thread you never did answer the question about the 18 volts you were apparently seeing 

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Once you do it, it's really pretty easy,........ a lot easier than the CCF way that doesn't work any more 

The slots in the advance limiter control how far the weights can advance as the speed goes up and the weights overcome the spring tension.

On that distributor with the nylon advance limiter, if you have 10 degrees initial, you'll be lucky to get 30 degrees total. (10 initial plus 20 from the weights)

If the combined force of the springs is too heavy, you won't get full advance

Normally the big spring has the free play mentioned above and isn't under any tension at all until up around 3000 rpm, and then as it gets stretched, it slows down the advance. Until then it's just along for the ride and the thin spring is doing all the work..

Here's a picture of a big spring (at the top)with the right amount of free play and also the thin spring with some tension on it at rest.

Just because they came from Nautiqueparts doesn't mean they're right for your distributor.

You wouldn't be the first one to have trouble with those same springs

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I'll post a diagram later today that should help, but basically you bypass/eliminate your ballast resistor and run the wire that went to the coil to the power lead on the DUI distributor and the tach connection on the DUI gets hooked to your original gray tach wire in the harness.

One more wire can be added to help give the best starting voltage, that'll be in the diagram

Here's a hand drawn diagram

The Red wire into the ballast resistor is from the key switch. it starts as a purple wire at the key switch but at a crimp for multiple connections in the harness it turns into a Red wire

The purple from the ballast resistor was the feed to your old coil and you can use that to feed the positive terminal on the DUI distributor.

The jumper on the ballast resistor takes the resistor out of the circuit so that full voltage is getting to the DUI coil.

The other jumper from the resistor to the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid/relay gives max voltage to the coil when the starter is running and after the engine is running and the key is in Run, the alternator will be supplying about 13.5 to 14 volts. This jumper would be optional but easy to do

You can rearrange the wiring by removing the ballast resistor completely and hooking the associated wires (the Red, Purple and the optional bypass) together for a "cleaner" look

There are other ways using relays etc to supply the power to the coil, but this works well.

The really "clean" way that might boggle somebody's mind if they're not familiar with how the solenoid/relay is built is to ditch the resistor completely and hook the Red wire and the Purple wire together at the "I" terminal.

It accomplishes both bypasses with no extra wires and you get rid of the resistor too. 

Here's the simple clean and easy drawing of what's mentioned in my previous post.

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Here's a link to an old thread

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41479&title=holley-secondaries-issues" rel="nofollow - link

It gives an easy way to check that they're opening if you're all by yourself and in that case their was a 300 RPM and 3 MPH loss.

Somebody else might get different results, but on a 351 with secondaries that don't work, you'll lose some power

And just to be sure you know.............they'll never open if you rev the engine in neutral, you have to be cruisin' on the water with load on the engine for the secondaries to operate

Usually somewhere in the 3500 ish RPM range they start opening and like in the link they don't open all the way on a stock or mildly modified 351

DUI advertises 24 degrees of advance at 3000 RPM on top of the initial, but different people get different results