75 SW Restoration
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51396
Printed Date: November-30-2024 at 7:34am
Topic: 75 SW Restoration
Posted By: DenDen
Subject: 75 SW Restoration
Date Posted: October-10-2023 at 6:12am
Starting my restoration project: 75, Southwind 18. As a winter project, I purchased the above mentioned to fill in my long winter days. I’m already gotten any things on this boat even before beginning restoration. This will not be a highly detailed extravaganza. It will be more of a picture tour as I go. https://ibb.co/DGW39Yy" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/3s372PD" rel="nofollow"> So far as you can see, we are removing the motor.
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Replies:
Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: October-22-2023 at 8:19am
<a href="https://ibb.co/mGmHZGN"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/mGmHZGN/IMG-0614.jpg" alt="IMG-0614" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/ykLqcbz"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/ykLqcbz/IMG-0616.jpg" alt="IMG-0616" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/RcCSbjv"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/RcCSbjv/IMG-0612.jpg" alt="IMG-0612" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/7VF7hXr"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/7VF7hXr/IMG-0607.jpg" alt="IMG-0607" border="0"></a> Just a couple of pictures to show progress. I haven’t had too much time to work on.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: October-22-2023 at 8:24am
<a href="https://ibb.co/RcCSbjv"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/RcCSbjv/IMG-0612.jpg" alt="IMG-0612" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/mGmHZGN"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/mGmHZGN/IMG-0614.jpg" alt="IMG-0614" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/ykLqcbz"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/ykLqcbz/IMG-0616.jpg" alt="IMG-0616" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/7VF7hXr"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/7VF7hXr/IMG-0607.jpg" alt="IMG-0607" border="0"></a>
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: October-22-2023 at 8:27am
Guess I better try and figure pictures out again
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: October-22-2023 at 8:28am
https://ibb.co/RcCSbjv" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/mGmHZGN" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/ykLqcbz" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/7VF7hXr" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-03-2023 at 6:12am
https://ibb.co/9pkt697" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/jhw3wJp" rel="nofollow"> [url=https://ibb.co/r2GncHN][/url
I haven’t spent a lot of time working on the boat. Got the port side, stringers uncovered. Surprised to find they are pretty good shape. Wood solid, but black were water entered the motor mount bolts. Still no water soaked foam. It seems a shame to tear the boat completely apart to fix something that’s not that bad. Exploring options. Comments, welcome.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-14-2023 at 9:32pm
I just learned something valuable. If you click out of this forum and try to add another picture, you lose everything that you had I need to start over again. I will try to post later
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-14-2023 at 9:57pm
Making some progress. Got everything pretty well cleaned up from the front of the motor cover back. Everything from the front of the motor cover forward is going to remain untouched as it does not seem to be wet or rotted at all. Stringers will not be changed at all either. Unfortunately, I have cut the top off of them and they’re all exposed so I need to do something with that. My thought is to run nuts and bolts all the way through to attach the stringers back to the fiberglass, very securely and then fiberglass over that. I had another thought, the 2 x 3 channel to the outside of the stringers. I could fill with some of that material that similar to Seacast to strengthen the boat up. Should the stringers ever go bad they will not need replaced. However, I talked to Tech guy at the fiberglass distributors,he said that would probably be two stiff. My plan is to rebuild the floor supports back in with Coosa board and fiberglass everything really well so that nothing ever gets wet anyway. Correct Craft did a pretty good job doing that, except for the holes where the motor mounts were on the stringers. As for the rest of the structure, holding the floor up, really wet and rotten because they did not seal the floor around the motor cover. https://ibb.co/RHHssvk" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/JCVDCkT" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/hR871QQ" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/4NVHhkB" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/Yt4FG71" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/NZ52Qq4" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/2cfXHhF" rel="nofollow"> Arsenal of saws I used. I decided to clean up all the mold in the boat, so I got it kind of wet. There’s a couple fans drying it out for the next couple weeks before I begin reconstruction. I am currently trying to decide what material to use. All seems pretty simple now. I have the interior to do something with as well as the exterior cleanup. Oh ya, picked up my 350 short block today.
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Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: November-15-2023 at 9:01am
Look forward to watching your process.
------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: November-16-2023 at 5:36am
Interesting project, glad you are sharing the pictures. If you have any of the hull and dash add those as well, curious to see more of the boat. I would have thought Ford 302 by 1975, not the OMC, not that I'm all that familiar with which engines which years. I assume that's a 305?
------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-16-2023 at 8:13am
63 Skier wrote:
Interesting project, glad you are sharing the pictures. If you have any of the hull and dash add those as well, curious to see more of the boat. I would have thought Ford 302 by 1975, not the OMC, not that I'm all that familiar with which engines which years. I assume that's a 305?
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307
click the link below and it'll seem familiar
http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51353&PN=1&title=sea-water-mystery" rel="nofollow - link
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: November-16-2023 at 8:46am
KENO wrote:
63 Skier wrote:
Interesting project, glad you are sharing the pictures. If you have any of the hull and dash add those as well, curious to see more of the boat. I would have thought Ford 302 by 1975, not the OMC, not that I'm all that familiar with which engines which years. I assume that's a 305?
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307
click the link below and it'll seem familiar
http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51353&PN=1&title=sea-water-mystery" rel="nofollow - link |
Oh of course, I should have realized it was the same SW.
Could forgetting this possibly be related to my problem of not being able to remember what I had for breakfast?
------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-16-2023 at 6:26pm
https://ibb.co/HgRRCyC" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/6gcHfHY" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/FHTP1yK" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/8gpxTtJ" rel="nofollow">
It actually had a 307. Came to find out the block was cracked. So we’re gonna put a 350 in it.
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: November-16-2023 at 8:08pm
Your boat is bad ass. Gonna be super sweet. I’d like to politely recommend as big an engine you can muster that is appropriate. Haul Ass and sound good Super sized ski nautique Enjoy Big fast boats are cool
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: November-17-2023 at 3:55am
DenDen wrote:
It actually had a 307. Came to find out the block was cracked. So we’re gonna put a 350 in it. | Nice looking SW, that's going to be a fun boat. Great idea on the 350, now you only have to decide how much hp you want out of it.
------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-21-2023 at 3:10pm
https://ibb.co/k4rx9BJ%0Ahttps://ibb.co/sHq6tgG%0Ahttps://ibb.co/7tW4pW7%0Ahttps://ibb.co/YZgCYbd%0Ahttps://ibb.co/ZLGVfRH%0Ahttps://ibb.co/bdhq34h
Progress photos Next I clean up the foam and grind all the surfaces. I’m going to fiberglass too. Then most of the nasty part is done.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-21-2023 at 3:11pm
https://ibb.co/k4rx9BJ%0Ahttps://ibb.co/sHq6tgG%0Ahttps://ibb.co/7tW4pW7%0Ahttps://ibb.co/YZgCYbd%0Ahttps://ibb.co/ZLGVfRH%0Ahttps://ibb.co/bdhq34h
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-21-2023 at 3:14pm
https://ibb.co/k4rx9BJ" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/sHq6tgG" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/7tW4pW7" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/YZgCYbd" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/ZLGVfRH" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/bdhq34h" rel="nofollow"> https://imgbb.com/" rel="nofollow - picture host
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Posted By: 1980SN2001
Date Posted: November-21-2023 at 3:38pm
67 ski nat wrote:
Your boat is bad ass. Gonna be super sweet. I’d like to politely recommend as big an engine you can muster that is appropriate. Haul Ass and sound good Super sized ski nautique Enjoy Big fast boats are cool |
Super sized Ski Nautique seems like an accurate description! These Southwinds are pretty neat! Deep hull and a walk through windshield, two things I wouldn't mind having. You probably won't have as much water washing over the bow like in the older Ski Nautiques.
------------- 1980 SN Project
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-24-2023 at 2:07am
I don’t know if anyone knows this, but I read somewhere that is south wind, and a barefoot nautique have the same Hul design as these picture show. https://ibb.co/t3KDGHQ" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/XjQrybd" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/kD88qBy" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/nwPWqgG" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/J3mtzrM" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: LennyBoat
Date Posted: November-24-2023 at 8:32am
Hi Den, from the inside the hull does look identical. Stern is a bit different though. I have to admit that I've been spying on your posts to see how your SW's (and by extension our BFN's) floor is constructed
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-24-2023 at 5:56pm
Keep watching next week I hope to start reframing the floor supports. I am collecting material right now. Going with Coosa board and epoxy resin from Total boat two to one. Course of fiberglass mat and some thickener. This is all new to me, but I think I got it.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-24-2023 at 6:00pm
I am currently having a difficult time, finding the camshaft that I want. Not too many people are making them for right turn engines. I just found another source, possibly in Texas. Some guy has a shop where he grinds them for a rebuild company. I hope to get a hold of him on Monday.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-25-2023 at 2:14pm
DenDen wrote:
I am currently having a difficult time, finding the camshaft that I want. |
So........what is this camshaft that you're looking for?
Reverse rotation flat tappet? or Reverse Rotation roller?
What vintage short block do you have, one with a 2 piece rear main seal or a newer one with a 1 piece rear main seal?
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-26-2023 at 7:58am
https://ibb.co/CQnCMrf" rel="nofollow">
The one on the right is available from Melling and I have it on order. I have not found anyone else that makes a right hand turn. The one on the left has the specs I desire. I need to find someone who can make that. I think crane for an extra hundred dollar charge but I have to wait till Monday to find out. I will use the one for Melling, but I would prefer a little bit more power without sacrificing idle. I plan on degreeing the cam should I receive it to assist idle. (the lobe separation on the melling is really 110 instead of 108)
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-26-2023 at 8:18am
To answer your other question, two piece, Rear main seal, left-hand dipstick
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-26-2023 at 11:54am
DenDen
There are a bunch of little voices in my head, mostly all saying that you better make sure the guy you talk to knows you want a cam that works in a Reverse Rotation Chevy engine.
That Comp Cams example above might have the numbers you're looking for, but those little voices say that it's for a Normal Rotation Chevy.
Are you all set with the part numbers for a Reverse Rotation rear main seal and timing cover seal?
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-26-2023 at 2:23pm
Thanks Ken for saving the day. I knew about the rear main seal running reverse, and the people that supply the short block did that hadn’t thought about the front seal. Yes, for the camshafts, I spoke to the Melling rep and that’s how I know that one is reversed right hand. I also talk to the competition cams rep and that’s how I know they do not make one that runs reverse. Maybe tomorrow I’ll find out some good news. Thanks again.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-28-2023 at 10:35pm
This is what I believe the original wood underneath the floor looked like. The repaired before actually used concrete, mortar and Bondo to fix the very bad part. I’m not positive this is exactly the same. Parts are just sitting there for now. Not fastened yet. https://ibb.co/fDghSYk" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/qxPcBn7" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/Tvj3Gvh" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/V3RWwBX" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/XY8T5fh" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-29-2023 at 8:29am
DenDen
I'm getting dizzy, cross eyed and banging into walls after looking at your looong run on pictures.
Could you help save the walls and hit enter twice after you paste each picture so it leaves a space between them?
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: November-30-2023 at 9:11am
I will try to do something different. What I do right now is copy them on that other website and paste them all once. To do it differently I would have to probably paste and copy one at a time? I will do anything, but I’m not sure what you mean
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-30-2023 at 7:46pm
You can still paste them into the message box here on CCF, all at once, then put a space or even 2 spaces between the URL's
So you have the address of the first picture, then put in a space or two between each of the URLs
Instead of this URL URL URL
You end up with this URL
URL
URL
and you have separation of the pictures
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: December-01-2023 at 10:08am
I copy and paste them all at once. I’m not sure it gives me an option to not do that.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: December-01-2023 at 10:10am
Never mind my last post I didn’t realize I had to go on page 2. I will try that next time I post pictures. Thanks for the help.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: December-10-2023 at 10:03pm
Got as far as the expandable foam. Also found a place in Washington state that grinds camshafts and I’m supposedly getting the one that I want soon.
https://ibb.co/cCZpr4T" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/yfbz8mS" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/WyQLxtv" rel="nofollow"> Trying to separate the photos for you, Ken.
https://ibb.co/D1YJBL4" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: December-17-2023 at 10:04am
Framing and floor, including stringers all buttoned up. Expandable foam on the inside, and I will be putting the tabbing on the outside. Trying to duplicate, correct craft construction all except coossa board replaced plywood.
https://ibb.co/KW1r43t" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/3mfLsTR" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/M8LV6vx" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/SB4d5x6" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/2shRLyC" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-07-2024 at 8:50am
I am currently trying to figure out what to finish the bilge with. Need something to hide imperfections. Probably fairly viscous. Not high gloss unless it really hides imperfections. Substrate is mostly epoxy with some original Correct Craft (gel coat?) finish showing. Not looking for cosmetic perfection, but something nice that looks professional. (Even though it is far from that) Considering thickened epoxy with color added? May not smooth out? Paint of some type? Not viscous enough? Help!!! I have too much time spent to have it look bad now. I want to get out of the bilge and work on other projects. Motor build, wiring, exterior, interior, trailer. Spring will be here before we know it.
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Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: January-07-2024 at 12:39pm
We used Jamestown distributors epoxy bilge paint. We like it a lot. Used in the tique and skier and Chad Colby used it in his bfn. All of that out of a gallon. Good stuff, more like paint than epoxy from a thickness standpoint. And it is NOT a 2 part product. We sanded our bilge to get the worst imperfections out but didn’t worry about it being perfect.
------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-07-2024 at 9:47pm
I will look that up and possibly give it a try. I was going to use Total boat bilge paint when I saw one review the guy said it didn’t dry for a month. Before you can’t believe everyone on the Internet. That’s why I like this forum. Everyone here seems to be very knowledgeable. Thanks very much for the reply.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-07-2024 at 10:07pm
If you please clarify something for me, I would appreciate it. Sometimes I can be kind of dense. I checked out the website for Jamestown, and only really found one epoxy bilge paint. It was the total boat one that I had the bad review of.. If you could clarify exactly what product you used from them, I would appreciate it. And if it was the total boat epoxy bilge, and you had no problems with it, I would love to use it.
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Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: January-07-2024 at 10:17pm
It was the Total Bilge paint. We liked it. Used it in the winter both times and my garage was approx 50-55 deg. Dried just fine.
------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-07-2024 at 10:26pm
Total Boat it is. Thanks so much!
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: January-08-2024 at 4:13am
Looking good. The foaming was the only fun part. I tried to color dye the epoxy during fiberglass work. The epoxy didn’t take the color well. Kinda pinkish dark
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: January-08-2024 at 9:56am
Description TotalBoat TotalBilge premium bilge paint is ideal for those greasy, grimy, humid places on your boat exposed to the harshest conditions and the hardest wear, especially the bilge. This epoxy-based, high-performance alkyd resin marine paint is easy to apply by brushing, rolling, or spraying. It provides a long-lasting, rock-hard, glossy finish that's resistant to all the nasty things that can plague not only bilges, but engine rooms, bulkheads, chain lockers, lazarettes, and V-berth stowage areas. We're talking diesel fuel, engine oil, acids, antifreeze, grease, grime, growth, heat, humidity, and solvents. TotalBilge's hard-wearing, abrasion-resistant finish provides excellent protection against the damage and staining that can occur when chemicals, oil and sludge get absorbed into wood or fiberglass. A clean, freshly painted bilge is not just for looks - there's also a practical side. A clean bilge lets you see problems such as leaking fuel and oil, and fix them before they get worse. Besides making it easier to find problems, our white bilge paint also makes it easier to find stuff that accidentally gets dropped into the bilge, such as tools and car keys. Our TotalBilge gray bilge paint is the lightest shade of gray available. Both colors offer superior opacity for excellent coverage and ability to hide previous stains on fiberglass, primed aluminum, primed steel, and wooden boats. The durable, high-gloss finish is also easy to keep clean - just wipe away the grease and grime with a cleaning and degreasing product such as TotalBoat Eco Solvent. TotalBilge is available in Quart and Gallon sizes, in your choice of Gray or White. Compare to other bilge coat paint products such as Interlux Bilgekote, Pettit EZ Bilge Paint, and Epifanes Bilge Paint. All TotalBoat products are designed for boaters, by boaters, to provide great value and great results. 100% made in the USA.
Brand TotalBoat Color Gray Finish Type High-Gloss Size 32 Fl Oz (Pack of 1) Item Volume 32 Fluid Ounces Special Feature Chip Resistant Unit Count 32.0 Fl Oz Paint Type Oil Item Form Liquid Included Components Paint
About this item TOUGH, WATERPROOF BILGE PAINT: This marine paint resists chemicals, oils, acids, alkyds and solvents. Hard, durable epoxy coating is ideal for boat bilges, engine rooms, lazarettes, lockers, stowage areas and bulkheads CHOOSE LIGHT GRAY OR WHITE: Paint boat bilge areas to protect and brighten so you can find & fix leaks and other problems before they become costly damage, or find items accidentally dropped into the bilge; both colors offer excellent coverage and hide EASY TO USE: Apply 1-2 coats by brushing, rolling or spraying on prepared fiberglass, wood and metal; prime prepared metals with TotalBoat TotalProtect; for fiberglass prime with TotalProtect if desired; for wood use TotalBoat Topside Primer if desired EASY TO KEEP CLEAN: Remove grease, oil, and grime from the high-gloss finish using a cleaner/degreaser. TotalBilge won't lift, crack, peel, or stain CHOOSE COLOR AND SIZE: Available in White and Gray colors, in Quart and Gallon Sizes. COVERAGE: 250-300 sq ft/gal; THINNING: Brush/Roll Application - TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100; Spray Application - Xylene
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-08-2024 at 10:42pm
https://ibb.co/S7LM7rV
I had some fun with the foam also. This”mushroom”came up through one of the holes I had cut looking for wet foam. Some folks like it’s growing in January in Ohio!
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-08-2024 at 10:43pm
Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-08-2024 at 10:46pm
https://ibb.co/x5TYGFz" rel="nofollow"> https://freeonlinedice.com/" rel="nofollow - random org coin
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: January-09-2024 at 8:07am
Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-16-2024 at 3:36pm
Bilge is done. Next going to hang the boat and get the trailer out from under it Then finish working on the hull. Would still like detailed dimensions on #4DV so I can convert my current trailer to bunks.
https://ibb.co/vhYjsMc" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/gjsCtyQ" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-16-2024 at 3:41pm
I forgot to comment on the Total boat bilge paint. It is great stuff,does not take long to dry, exactly everything as stated earlier in the forum. I would recommend that to anyone to use. That being said, I am glad to be moving on from the bilge!!!
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: January-16-2024 at 5:01pm
That came out really nice! Agree, has to be a relief to move on to prettier parts of the boat.
------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: January-17-2024 at 8:52am
Looks great. Glad you had good results and experience like we did.
------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-17-2024 at 8:56am
DenDen
I think you did some kind of magic that made all your pictures just plain vanish
Edit..............it was a problem on my end that made the pictures disappear only on my computer, but it's fixed and I have the pictures again.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-25-2024 at 9:51am
Here’s an update. Haven’t been working on the boat too much but will get going again soon Got the sides looking pretty nice, now on to the bottom!!! Not looking forward to that. Have most of the engine parts should be putting that together next week.
https://ibb.co/ZHxkcn0" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/fHCr2bL" rel="nofollow">
https://ibb.co/nwW7m62" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: January-25-2024 at 10:23am
Nice rack! For holding up the boat. Shining the bottom side is not much fun at all.
------------- 2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: January-26-2024 at 9:26am
Those two decals (usa, cc) at rear are awesome. Make sure to keep or get new. You need the AWSA decal also
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: January-26-2024 at 5:55pm
I did a quick search for the AWSA logo and didn’t find it. Here is what’s going to be on the back aythe sides. I already have new stickers for the other two if I need them. Getting ready to buff the side out. Don’t know what will happened to the stickers.
https://ibb.co/f4bK3p1" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/6wp1zHq" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: January-27-2024 at 11:08am
Very nice!
------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: January-30-2024 at 4:11pm
The best sticker matches we found for all three were at Garzon Studio. If you call they will make you a 6 pack with the two on your boat and the AWSA sticker if you want it.
------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: January-31-2024 at 1:18pm
Google vintage AWSA decal images
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: February-09-2024 at 11:53pm
Update https://ibb.co/BV6gXPB" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/jhGvHjS" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/YPnywd1" rel="nofollow">. https://ibb.co/xSsnhKy" rel="nofollow">.
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: February-10-2024 at 8:48am
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-10-2024 at 9:18am
I see vortec heads, an RR cam setup and a grille from my favorite Chev truck body style
The grille looks kinda lonely up there
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Posted By: bwinn
Date Posted: February-10-2024 at 6:04pm
Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: February-10-2024 at 10:51pm
Slightly more than a Keno!!
https://ibb.co/YXr1bSD" rel="nofollow">
1985 W900B 3406B Cat
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: February-26-2024 at 12:11am
Progress!!!
https://ibb.co/Ptj3wJY" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/R9wpvp1" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/KqYgW0C" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/ZB0vn9d" rel="nofollow">
Ran short on time. Only got it set in.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-04-2024 at 10:15am
Here’s the latest update Stuck on the wiring right now But should have it ready to go by the weekend. Hope to break in the camshaft https://ibb.co/JKfCJXg" rel="nofollow"> .
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https://ibb.co/brD09vP" rel="nofollow"> https://nonprofitlight.com/nc/mills-river/ecusta-credit-union" rel="nofollow - ecusta credit union
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: March-04-2024 at 10:45am
Thanks for sharing your work!
just one point of order, you likely already understand the intake filter will be comical to field service in that location? also, without the initial loop high, any failure of a good bunch of downstream components and connections would be catastrophic when moored?
------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-04-2024 at 2:10pm
I was hoping someone would look at that and tell me what I did wrong. The old set up, ran along the very bottom, and did not have a strainer on it Would it be wise to put a valve somewhere? I have not really seen very many ski boats and do not know what they do. I was more concerned with the seawater getting to the pump more than anything. I believe this set up should actually fill the pump up if the boat is in the water. I’m thinking a failure of anything under water level would be catastrophic. And the water level is just below the bottom of the exhaust. Would a loop that went almost up to the bottom of the floor do any good? I am open for any suggestions someone has. The boat will probably never sit in the water very much, but you never know
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-04-2024 at 4:57pm
GottaSki wrote:
just one point of order, you likely already understand the intake filter will be comical to field service in that location? also, without the initial loop high, any failure of a good bunch of downstream components and connections would be catastrophic when moored? |
Yeah, what he said
Here's a picture from your "sea water mystery" thread.
It's how CC did it, with a loop up and over the transmission and the filter right side up.
That way you maintain a good loop seal for the pump to prime itself pretty much instantly when you start the boat and it'll suck through the intake with no problem.
And an additional bonus is that you can unscrew the strainer without sinking the boat due to water gushing in.
If you put a ball valve shutoff at the hull inlet, you could shut it to prevent any water from getting in while emptying the strainer etc.
The flip side of that is that you can shut it for one reason or another and forget to open it again and get a good overheat job going.
Kinda one of those things you can see both sides of the argument, so it turns into a personal decision.......how's yer' memory?
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-05-2024 at 1:20am
I went back and reread the prior post. Now I’ve got some questions and it may be time for a phone conversation with you Ken. Maybe we can talk tomorrow Or I guess that would be later today
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Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: March-05-2024 at 7:32am
if i may add, I've found that boats with a loop of any sort fair better with being on a lift, it keeps the impeller wet and primed like a sink trap.
Boats with a flat hose tent to eventually drain off and have a dry start and slow prime each launch, frag through a couple impellers a year.
------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-05-2024 at 7:53am
DenDen wrote:
I went back and reread the prior post. Now I’ve got some questions and it may be time for a phone conversation with you Ken. Maybe we can talk tomorrow Or I guess that would be later today |
Call anytime today
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-06-2024 at 2:20pm
I have a question regarding the dipstick Mine is on the left side because it’s an older block With this style of manifold, I would like to see how the dipstick is supposed to look Maybe this type of manifold was never put on a left-hand dipstick? Where it is I’m pretty sure it’s gonna hit the motor cover
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-06-2024 at 4:49pm
Kinda looks like the dipstick would be sticking out far enough that the engine cover wouldn't close without bending/breaking the tube.
Last time I ran into that problem, I took the dipstick out and had good clearance from the tube to the engine cover, so I took a vacuum cap and put it over the tube and stashed the dipstick in a good spot and when I wanted to check the oil, I took the cap off and put the dipstick in.
I had to shorten the tube about and inch and did the same with the dipstick and made new markings
It's been maybe 10 years or so........I guess it's probably become permanent
Ps............the zip tie wire separators get
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-07-2024 at 12:10am
Thanks Ken that will work, Only I was wishing for another (Miracle)
I ran into the problem of the weather being so great it’s difficult to work inside!
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-08-2024 at 12:20pm
Update: I cut off the dipstick so the handle doesn’t even stick out much. Will remark the full line when I can. New picture of my water strainer, thanks for everyone’s help.
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-08-2024 at 7:44pm
Alright Den
Are you trying to see how many hose clamps you can use on one side of the exhaust system?
I think I see 10 in the picture of the left side manifold (and no coil wire)
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-18-2024 at 1:42pm
https://ibb.co/j389dTn
We got the motor in the boat got the cam broke in. Bought a new Holly carburetor to find that I need a new wedge plate underneath of it I’m assuming it’s a 15° angle one like the picture shown above. This one on eBay will cost me almost $200. Is anybody got something like that laying around that I could get or less money.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-18-2024 at 1:45pm
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-18-2024 at 2:37pm
I decided to measure the one that came with the boat on the 307 which was a Rochester Quadra jet. I get 10° Does anyone know what angle these carburetors are to be mounted at? I understood the motors were at 15°. I’m not even sure that is correct. Once again, I need some help from this forum
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-18-2024 at 4:03pm
Hold on there Den Den
I'm thinking that you have a Summit intake with the Holley/Edelbrock bolt pattern for the carburetor.
If that's the case just bolt the Holley on and be happy.
All those PCM Fords over the years had no angled spacer for the carburetor. They had a 1 inch spacer with no angle to it and those Holleys worked just fine.
Sometimes a slight lowering of the front float bowl was done by people because of the engine's mounting angle, but that was about it.
Since a Holley carburetor is kinda dumb and doesn't know whether it's a Ford or Chevy under it and the mounting angles are the same I'd go without one with the Holley.
If you just gotta have a spacer, I'll dig up the part number for one that I used before, that was a whole big bunch cheaper and had around a 7 or 8 degree angle or maybe a little bit more. ( it came on an engine with an Edelbrock carburetor if you're wondering why I had an angled spacer)
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-18-2024 at 6:28pm
Thanks for the answer Ken. The last boat I had was a 351 with a Holly but I couldn’t remember how it was set up. My son and I decided to just purchase two 5 degree plates, and put them both on for a total of 10. I don’t see why this would cause any problem, unless someone else can think of a reason not to. To update our progress as I mentioned earlier, we made it through the cam break-in with no problem. The Almost 5 gallons per minute water supply was just barely enough, when the thermostat opened that would cause the exhaust manifolds to heat up to about 120°. and then they would cool right back down to touch. We could tell when the thermostat opened because we have clear hoses and the water would become dirty . Nexts; tune it up and take it to the pond to see how the circulation pump works After that, I will put the interior in and get ready for a warm day to go to the lake. I will take a bunch of pictures between now and then to post. PS our weather is turning cold for the next little while
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-19-2024 at 5:11am
DenDen wrote:
Thanks for the answer Ken.
My son and I decided to just purchase two 5 degree plates, and put them both on for a total of 10. I don’t see why this would cause any problem, unless someone else can think of a reason not to.
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You're gonna have some fun with the mounting studs especially the rear ones.
You have to bend them a little for a wedge and I'd figure a wedge sandwich will take some creative multiangle bending to have everything lined up with the carburetor mounting holes.
I guess you just gotta have a spacer (or two) for whatever reason
PS..............here's a link to the 8 degree that I mentioned earlier
http://marinepartssource.com/carburetor-wedge-plate-chrysler-3527746?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw7-SvBhB6EiwAwYdCAcvQBffptBng3YRg_LMAPZG-DKLBLGsNDZrTJilDHfVIer2xZVtp3RoCyJoQAvD_BwE" rel="nofollow - link
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-19-2024 at 1:45pm
Thanks We knew about the bending of the studs, the Rochester Quadra jet that was on it had much longer studs in the back. I think we got it figured out
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Posted By: swilliams
Date Posted: March-19-2024 at 4:00pm
Den, you may have addressed this but did you use the same distributor that came off of the 307? If so you may need the stronger advance springs for that 350. I know OMC had different springs for the different hp ratings. The advance weights were the same but Mallory had I believe three different models. Steve
------------- 1976 Martinique,350 Omc. 1975 Glastron/Carlson CV16,115 Merc.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: March-19-2024 at 7:24pm
Yes, I have the exact same distributor that was in the 307. When I get ready to officially time, the motor up, I will see what we have advance wise. If I remember correctly, it only advanced 27° at 3500 RPM. I am thinking the total advance should be above 30 maybe 32 The only timing we did so far was to set it at 20° BTC @ 2000 RPMs while we were breaking the cam in
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-20-2024 at 6:56am
swilliams wrote:
Den, you may have addressed this but did you use the same distributor that came off of the 307? If so you may need the stronger advance springs for that 350. I know OMC had different springs for the different hp ratings. The advance weights were the same but Mallory had I believe three different models. Steve |
Seems to me that Den's distributor will be fine and it's pretty easily adjustable as far as getting your desired initial and total advance.
His engine isn't exactly what GM/OMC built in the 70's either with his new heads and cam
Maybe OMC had some little spring differences, but if you were to look at something like let's say, a DUI replacement distributor for example, they sell you the same distributor with the same decent curve for a 305, 350, 454.......no difference. If you want to change the curve, that's up to you.
Got any charts of those advance curves in you OMC manual?
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: April-08-2024 at 12:57am
Latest update Got nice enough weather to try the boat in the pond The only thing we found out is that it would not draw water through the system that I have shown above. While it was in the pond, I eliminated everything but a hose directly from the inlet to the transmission cooler.(starting to get smart and plan ahead.) That seems to work really well. So back to the drawing board.
As you can see in the pictures to follow a rerouted the line to stay as close to the bottom of the boat as possible. Today it was back to the pond, it worked perfectly. As soon as the boat was in the water the line and the strainer filled completely up. On startup it drew water immediately and continue to do so as it idled. Everything seems to work well as best we could ascertain in the pond. The pictures show the interior only. I will take some pictures and videos when I get it out of the shop and to a lake. (hopefully very soon)
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-08-2024 at 8:21am
Looks like you're getting there.
Whatever works for getting the water flowing through the pump is good.
But..........from the "lets keep DenDen safe department" , your Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission is just kinda there with no wires hooked to it.
That means you must be able to start the engine with the shifter at full throttle in Forward or Reverse as an example.
Since that's not really a good thing to be able to do, if you need some help with that, it'll be pretty easy to explain how to wire it in.
https://ibb.co/9v2shPQ" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-08-2024 at 8:36am
Looking good and glad you had a chance to splash it. Sounds like you are close to having a running boat in a lake!
------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: April-08-2024 at 8:35pm
From the pictures it sure looks like there’s no wires on it. And I can’t find a picture that shows it being wired. I will check tomorrow and see as I know it was wired before.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: May-06-2024 at 12:53am
Boat is nearly done. Waiting on Ski pole. Went for a break-in run couple weeks ago. ran around for about an hour and a half. Everything is fine, motor pulls real strong. Has a slight stumble in about 1750 on acceleration. Nothing serious a few adjustments should take care of that. Took two speedometers and both failed us so I could get no reading on speed. Prop does not seem too far off, but will easily overspeed engine. Next time out, I will take good pictures and videos to post and I’m sure be discussing the prop change. Felt bad about disturbing the fisherman on a nice Friday afternoon. She’s pretty loud!!
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: May-06-2024 at 11:43am
Friday afternoon fishermen kind of expect it I think, at least you aren't putting up mountains of waves like a wake boat. I always try to stay away from morning fishermen when we ski early.
Checking speed with gps and assuming your tach is accurate seeing speed vs. rpm will tell the story on the prop. When you say it easily overspeeds the engine, what rpm were you seeing?
------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: May-06-2024 at 11:45pm
It would easily rev to 5000. If I did not get out of it, it would’ve passed that and kept going I think. But again, I don’t know how fast we’re going If I had to guess I would say at least 45 mph Next trip out, I will get some exact readings on both RPM and speed.
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: May-14-2024 at 3:52am
Got the boat out again after putting larger jets and a different power valve in the holly. Boat ran unbelievably well. No matter what we did, we could not cause it to stumble or hesitate or even think of misbehaving a little in anyway. Got some videos and took a few pics Anyway, the bottom line is it’s like riding around in first gear or third anyway You get the idea it’s geared pretty low If you run up to 5000 and stop there and let it ride just a little while you’re going 45 MPH. There is plenty of throttle left after that So obviously, I need a different prop. Can anyone make some suggestions as to which prop and where to get it?
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Here are a couple of pictures to show how good the hull turned out. Really can’t explain it, but those cracks seem to disappear? I’m sure they’re probably back. I would love to post videos, but don’t know how and I’ve not seen any on here so I guess it’s not possible
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-14-2024 at 8:46am
Den
If you want the people who night normally give you a recommendation, you should probably start a new thread with a clever title like " I need a prop for my Southwind on steroids"
Then you should say that it's probably about 300 to 320 HP, reverse rotation and right now has a 13X13 Ellis.
Then you'll probably get asked if you're sure the tach and speed readings are right
Then maybe there'll be a request for a picture of your prop, strut and rudder all installed on the boat to see what you have for clearances.
I thought I'd save you the trouble with the picture, here's one from earlier in this thread. It shows prop to hull clearance of about 1 to 1.5 inches as a guess. The thumbrule is about 10% of the prop diameter, that would be 1.3 inches. It's only a thumbrule
It also shows lots of distance between the strut and the prop, that's how CC built a lot of their boats back then.
People would say to shorten it, but if you were to do that, the prop and hull clearance would be real small or non existent.
https://ibb.co/47Yg3mz" rel="nofollow">
Most people are trying to pick up some RPMs and would get something like an Acme 540, but in your case, wanting to load the engine more to bring down the RPMs, you'd want something like an Acme 430.
It's a 13x13 prop and you're probably thinking the Ellis is a 13X13 so why would I get one of those?
The CNC machined Acme props have a lot more blade area. It'll look huge compared to your Ellis prop and drag your RPM's down by a few hundred or so.
If you wanted to knock down the RPM's some more an Acme 1598 is a 13X14 CNC prop, but that might be lugging the engine too much.
Besides Vortec heads like RPM and 5000 at full throttle is kinda like their happy zone
I'll vote for an Acme 430 to knock your RPMs down and make it more of a cruisin' boat that feels like you shifted to "high gear"
There are a few other choices too
Maybe you'll get some different opinions
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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: May-14-2024 at 9:18am
Awesome. The decals are perfect Getting pretty jealous of all you guys finishing and getting in water Do you like the bigger ski nautique
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: May-14-2024 at 2:47pm
https://ibb.co/f8cRWdt" rel="nofollow">
This is a picture of what the prop and writer actually look like. The one that Ken shows the shaft was not hooked through the transmission at that time. I am going to start another thread for this prop issue as it seems it might be getting complicated So check out” Prop help for my Southwind on steroids”
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Posted By: DenDen
Date Posted: May-23-2024 at 12:57am
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