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Drain plug

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51449
Printed Date: January-28-2025 at 12:27pm


Topic: Drain plug
Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Subject: Drain plug
Date Posted: January-22-2024 at 6:46am
My boat currently has a non-standard drain plug fitted that I want to replace. I take it that this is the standard/OEM drain plug:

https://nautiqueparts.com/drain-plug-t-handle-w-base-original-correct-craft-nautique/" rel="nofollow - OEM drain plug

I'm also considering this lock nut style plug from Perko:

https://www.perko.com/catalog/underwater_hardware/291/garboard_drain_plug/" rel="nofollow - Perko drain plug

Any pro's and con's to consider between the two different styles? Or is it purely down to personal preference?

Thanks!

Wilhelm




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1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.



Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-22-2024 at 1:08pm
Since you asked this question a couple of years ago, I guess your transom style drain installed with the flange on the inside hasn't fallen apart yet Wink 

Old thread in the link below

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50422&PID=603389&title=bilge-drain-plug#603389" rel="nofollow - link

If it's in there and sealed good and you're worried about your mounting  screws pulling out of the fiberglass (I'm guessing they're wood type screws, screwed into the fiberglass  and not a through bolted setup) why not just remove the screws, drill the holes all the way through and use something like Stainless Steel panhead, round head or button head type machine screws with washers and nylock nuts on the inside, all sealed with your favorite sealer.

It won't fall out due to water pressure like you're worrying about in the previous thread or from screws pulling out.

Otherwise I'd say it would be a personal preference type thing if you're replacing the whole thing




Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Date Posted: January-22-2024 at 2:30pm
Thanks Ken. Your memory/ability to dig stuff up is astonishing.

Things have indeed held up without any problems in the two years since that last thread of mine. I do notice a bit of movement of the flange when at times I unscrew the drain plug after it's been screwed in very tightly. So I do want to re-bed/secure the fitting properly to put my mind at ease. Also, the current drain is 1/2" NPT, not the factory 3/4" NPT. I installed a drain hose for the oil sump some time ago. The smallest hose that would do the job does not fit through the 1/2" NPT hole, but should fit through the 3/4" NPT hole - which would make the job of changing oil somewhat easier. So I'll probably replace the current drain regardless of concerns about leaks etc.


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1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-22-2024 at 4:59pm
I suppose that if you go with the original style, all the holes are already there, maybe the bolt holes are full of sealer etc that needs to be dug out, but you wouldn't be making any new holes..........and you could do the MrMcD cut like referenced in the thread from a couple of years ago, if you want to drain the maximum amount of water out.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: January-22-2024 at 9:17pm
The modified drain plug in my 95 Ski Nautique is still working and does not leak at all.   I think this was from 2015 or 2016?   I bet if the screws and flange were bedded with 5200 the drain would be firm till the boat falls apart around it.   That stuff is pretty tough and easy to use on install.  

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Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Date Posted: August-25-2024 at 4:28pm
So I've finally gotten round to buying https://www.perko.com/catalog/underwater_hardware/290/garboard_drain_plug/" rel="nofollow - this Perko drain plug. There is a little ridge running down the side of the outside of the female threads of the drain - circled in red in the picture below. I assume this helps to prevent the drain from being dislodged if the male plug is twisted with force.

Question: how should this ridge be accomodated in the installation of the drain? Do I drill the hole only large enough to fit the outside of the female threads of the drain, and then cut a little channel in the fiberglass to accomodate the ridge? Or do I drill the hole so that it is large enough to fit the entire drain, and just fill the space around the outside of the female threads with sealant?




-------------
1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-26-2024 at 8:42am
If you scroll down in the link below, to where they give a handful of dimensions, it says the cutout diameter should be 1 3/8 inches.

I'd find a scrap piece of wood, drill a 1 3/8 hole and see how things fit Wink

http://defender.com/en_us/perko-t-handle-garboard-drain-plug-0266dp0plb?srsltid=AfmBOoptsNjncleTlCkldd0FA3wx-wlNy2mpRHj2vg38vVDfEaWGJxqp" rel="nofollow - link

The 4 thru hull mounting screws should withstand any twisting you could give 


Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Date Posted: August-26-2024 at 9:59am
Thanks Ken. I was looking for installation instructions in the package and on the Perko website, but no luck. Never came across the instructions on the Defender site - much appreciated.

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1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Date Posted: August-26-2024 at 4:41pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I'd find a scrap piece of wood, drill a 1 3/8 hole and see how things fit


Not very tight, is my conclusion. But my one size smaller hole saw is definitely too small. So plan is to go with the 1 3/8 hole and just screw and seal it down properly.

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1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-27-2024 at 9:21pm
The drain plug on my two boats are through bolted with taper head machine screws and small washers under the nylon lock nuts. 
Guessing # 10 stainless


Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Date Posted: August-28-2024 at 2:42am
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

The drain plug on my two boats are through bolted with taper head machine screws and small washers under the nylon lock nuts. 
Guessing # 10 stainless
Thanks. I do like the added peace of mind of through bolting. I may well go that route rather than just the #8 screws that the Perko information leaflet in the drain plug package suggests.


-------------
1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-28-2024 at 3:09am
I would bed it with the 5200 regardless of what bolts/screws you choose to use.   That stuff will keep it dry and tight forever.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-28-2024 at 6:38am
Since they say to use #8 screws, that probably means that the holes and the countersinks for the screw heads are drilled for a #8 flathead machine screw to fit just right Wink

http://boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Machine-Screws/Machine-Screw-Diameter" rel="nofollow - link  to machine screw sizes

Or maybe a Metric  M4.5  flathead machine screw will slide right in.



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