Your transmission issue is called dirty neutral.  There's normally nothing you can do about it except rebuild the transmission.  Try changing the fluid and if your packing is leaking more than a few drops per minute, try tightening up the packing nut.  Most people live with it,

Inboards don't steer in reverse; they might pull in the direction of the rotation in reverse. Just got to get used to it and learn how to drive it.

There should be a plate on the transmission that identifies it and may have the ratio,

Your fuel line is hokey if it has an outboard bulb on it.  It should be replaced.  

It must resemble this thing in the picture 

Like Riley mentioned, there should be a tag on the transmission in front of the dipstick like in the picture below

https://ibb.co/kxtByK4" rel="nofollow">

Most likely tells you it's a Borg Warner 71C also called a 10-17 in later years

They make fuel flow monitors for carbureted boats....Google will help you.

Here's a link to some light reading that might answer some of your questions. It deals with a Fish Nautique but not much differencein the mechanical stuff.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50254&PN=1&title=fish-nautique-messer" rel="nofollow - link

The best way to be sure what you have for shaft sizes (prop shaft and rudder shaft) will be to get a little dirty and do some measuring.

If you're wondering about the size so you can order packing, order 3/16 and 1/4 and get enough of each to do both and you won't go wrong. Take somebody's word about what you're gonna need and you may not be happy. There wasn't lots of consistency

Instead of asking for pictures, take some and post them here and you'll get more help that way. 

Fuel system is like most inboard or IO boats.............tank, antisiphon valve, maybe a fuel filter, mechanical fuel pump on that vintage of your engine, then up to one of those antique carburetor thingies that you'll probably be getting familiar with.

No squeeze bulb necessary

Run it like MrMcD said with a portable tank direct to the fuel pump to help narrow things down. The portable tank needs to be vented so that the fuel pump doesn't start wheezing and running out of pumping ability. The installed tank is vented also for the same reason.

And,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,anything that's been said earlier about v hull CC's backing up is accurate 

Draining the transmission is usually done by sucking the fluid out the dipstick hole with a hand pump, vacuum pump etc. There's an actual drain if you read the manual, but it's awkward to get to.

 Dexron 3  or Dexron/Mercon ATF work good in the transmission  .About  2 quarts depending on cooler capacity

Being overfilled and having a dirty neutral like you have is just wishful thinking, hoping for an easy fix, but you'll have clean fluid in it when it needs to come apart for a rebuild  

Or you live with it like mentioned and spray water on the cutlass bearing if you're running it on the hose, so you don't kill the bearing

I bought and put one on since what mine originally had was bent, and with the 11A it handled like garbage in any current and was unacceptable to me.

https://shop-us.sideshift.com/collections/monohull-bow-stern-thruster-products/products/ss230-bow-thruster" rel="nofollow - https://shop-us.sideshift.com/collections/monohull-bow-stern-thruster-products/products/ss230-bow-thruster

Kinda spendy, but an option.

JQ

10.25 length from edge to edge.

14" total height of the rudder blade.

No fisherman in history has ever come home in a 1/4 following sea and said,"Man i wish my rudder was smaller."

 

If you want that rudder to try out for performance/size I am open to offers. it's just sitting, waiting for me to cut it up for another project. 

If you keep up with the zincs and keep good bottom paint on it you'll prob get a decent life out of it. 

But that blade is carbon steel so don't expect it to last a lifetime. The rudder stock is stainless.  

And yes, with prices of material now, i would expect a build-new rudder of all stainless will be close to the $1000 mark.

I do have the capability of building one out of all stainless if you want me to look up material and give you a quote feel free to message me. I would need to confirm some specs like stock diameter and linkage configuration for steering.

The link below is a good disassembly video and you can continue on to part 2, the assembly video

If you're wondering about buying a rebuilt one, the pump on the front can be indexed to match your engine rotation, so the same B/W transmission can work behind a normal or a reverse rotating engine with the pump indexed correctly.

If you don't index it correctly, you'll have 3 speeds of neutral 

Do a search here on CCF on transmission pump indexing, lots of reading, some is right and some isn't right, but ask any questions you have and we'll keep you straight

The 10-18 is about an inch (.94 inch according to Borg Warner) longer than a 10-17 so you have to account for that inch somewhere. The extra length is behind the mounts

Maybe the shaft can go back about an inch, maybe it'll need to be shortened about an inch depending on your prop/rudder clearance.

I'd probably stick with what's in it now getting a rebuild and that way there won't be any issues with different shaft coupling sizes that you'd need to resolve..

Maybe you've already done it but disconnecting the cable at the transmission and shifting it locally at the lever is quick and easy to do.

Live2fish wrote: Any tips tricks or anything?

Watched any good  videos lately?

Here's a couple that should help you